Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 74

comb” or compressed air to clean the
condenser. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

(d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is
normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping
from this while the system is in operation,
to the extent that quite a large puddle can
be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for

about 30 minutes at least once a month,
particularly during the winter. Long term
non-use can cause hardening, and
subsequent failure, of the seals.
3 Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment necessary to service it, in-depth
fault diagnosis and repairs are not included in
this manual. For more complete information
on the air conditioning system, refer to the
Haynes  Automotive Heating and Air
Conditioning Manual.
4 The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
5 Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
6 Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting, and put the
blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
- to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment.
7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click, and the centre of
the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet
pipes at the compressor. One side should be
cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible
difference between the two pipes, there’s
something wrong with the compressor or the
system. It might be a low charge - it might be
something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning specialist.

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work.
3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by
axle stands. 

Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissors-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug, which is
located at the rear of the sump. The engine
and exhaust components will be warm during
the actual work, so try to anticipate any
potential problems while the engine and
accessories are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see Section 3).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel to provide access to the
oil filter; if the additional working clearance is
required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt
cover (two fasteners). 

15 Engine oil and filter change

1•16

15.1  These tools are required when

changing the engine oil and filter

1 Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves - When removing the drain
plug and filter, it is inevitable that you will get
oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent
burns from hot oil)
3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is pretty tight, and a long breaker bar is
needed to loosen it
4 Socket - To be used with the breaker bar
or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the
drain plug)
5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type
wrench, which requires clearance around the
filter to be effective
6 Filter wrench - This type fits on the
bottom of the filter, and can be turned with a
ratchet or breaker bar (different size wrenches
are available for different types of filters)

15.7  Use the correct-size spanner or

socket to remove the oil drain plug and

avoid rounding it off

15.9  Since the oil filter is usually on very

tight, you’ll need a special wrench for

removal. DO NOT use the wrench to

tighten the new filter. Pack rag under the

filter before removal to minimise the mess

Every 10 000 miles

Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive maintenance
the home mechanic can give
the engine, because ageing

oil becomes diluted and contaminated,
which leads to premature engine wear.

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this
number free.

Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided

with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and refit the
roadwheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see
illustration). If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns. As the plug
releases from the threads, move it away
sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the
sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve!
Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and
check the condition of the plug’s sealing
washer; renew it if worn or damaged.
8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle; when
the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the
drain plug and its threads in the sump and
refit the plug, tightening it to the specified
torque wrench setting.
9 Using a suitable filter removal tool, unscrew
the oil filter from the right-hand rear of the
cylinder block; be prepared for some oil
spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter
to make sure that the rubber sealing ring
hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully
remove it. Withdraw the filter through the
wheel arch, taking care to spill as little oil as
possible.
10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific manuals supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring (see illustration). Screw the filter
into position on the engine until it seats, then
tighten it through a further half- to three-
quarters of a turn only. Tighten the filter by
hand only - do not use any tools.
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.

12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time,
until the level is up to the lower notch on the
dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre
will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper
notch.
13 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the reference Sections of this manual.

1 The manual transmission does not have a
dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
making sure that the vehicle is level. On the
lower front side of the transmission housing,

you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and
remove it. If the lubricant level is correct, the
oil should be up to the lower edge of the hole.
2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if
the oil level is not up to the hole), use a
syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add
more  (see illustration). Stop filling the
transmission when the lubricant begins to run
out of the hole.
3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Drive the
vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.
4 A need for regular topping-up can only be
due to a leak, which should be found and
rectified without delay.

The procedure is described in Chapter 8,

Section 3.

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Remove the left-hand front wheel.
2 Apply a little oil to the cable end fitting on
the selector lever on the left-hand side of the
transmission (refer to Chapter 7, Part B if
necessary).
3 Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.

Front suspension and steering
check

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing
or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear

19 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

18 Automatic transmission

linkage lubrication

17 Clutch pedal adjustment

16 Manual transmission oil level

check

1•17

1

19.2B  Check the condition of the lower

arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

15.10  Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring

with clean engine oil before installing the

filter on the engine

16.2  Topping-up the manual transmission

oil

19.2A  Check the condition of the track rod

balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

Every 10 000 miles

of these components will cause loss of
lubricant, together with dirt and water entry,
resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints
or steering gear.
3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid
hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the
pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also
check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals
within the steering gear.
4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 
3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as
before. Any movement felt now may again be
caused by wear in the hub bearings or the
steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track
rod balljoint is worn, the visual movement will
be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can
be felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-
pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track
rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will
be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken
place.
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each
way. There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously

described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using
the method described for the front hub
bearings (paragraph 4).
10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,
check for wear in the suspension mounting
bushes by levering between the relevant
suspension component and its attachment
point. Some movement is to be expected as
the mountings are made of rubber, but
excessive wear should be obvious.

Roadwheel check and balancing

11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel
wheels may become dented or buckled.
Renewal of the wheel is very often the only
course of remedial action possible.
12 The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained, not only to
avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid
wear in the steering and suspension
components. Wheel imbalance is normally
signified by vibration through the vehicle’s
bodyshell, although in many cases it is
particularly noticeable through the steering
wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that
wear or damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels and wheel bearing wear/
maladjustment also fall into this category.
Balancing will not usually cure vibration
caused by such wear.
13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If
balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very
important, because they prevent dirt, water
and foreign material from entering and
damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints.
External contamination can cause the gaiter
material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water occasionally.
2 With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on axle stands, turn the steering
onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front
wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the
outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber
gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the
folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or
deterioration of the rubber, which may allow
the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress
of water and grit into the joint (see
illustration). Also check the security and
condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these
checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage
or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be
renewed as described in Chapter 8.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the outer CV joints themselves,
by first holding the driveshaft and attempting
to rotate the wheels. Repeat this check on the
inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke
and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.
4 Any appreciable movement in the CV joint
indicates wear in the joint, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
retaining nut.

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system, from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2 Check the pipes and connections for

21 Exhaust system check

20 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1•18

19.2C  Check the condition of the steering

rack gaiters

19.4  Checking for wear in the front

suspension and hub bearings

20.2  Check the driveshaft gaiters by hand

for cracks and/or leaking grease

Every 10 000 miles

evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication of
the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,

press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are
correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
(a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

(b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied.

(c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
(d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A brake pad wear warning light is fitted, and
it is illuminated when the thickness of the front
(or rear) disc brake pad linings reach the
minimum amount. However, a physical check
should be made to confirm the thickness of
the linings, as follows.

Disc brakes

3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle, as
applicable, and support it on axle stands.
Where rear brake pads are fitted, also jack up
the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands.
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the

caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down
to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads
at that end of the car must be renewed as a
set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads).
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that
they still have service life remaining. If any
disc is thinner than the specified minimum
thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any
case, check the general condition of the
discs. Look for excessive scoring and
discolouration caused by overheating. If these
conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and
have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to
Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In
particular, check the flexible hoses in the
vicinity of the calipers, where they are
subjected to most movement. Bend them
between the fingers (but do not actually bend
them double, or the casing may be damaged)
and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits (see
illustration).

Rear drum brakes

11 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch to inspect the linings of the
leading brake shoes (see illustration). Check
that the thickness of the lining material on the

23 Brake check

22 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1•19

1

21.2  If any of the exhaust system rubber

mountings are to be renewed, ensure that
the replacements are of the correct type -

their colour is a good guide. Those nearest

to the catalytic converter are more heat-

resistant than the others

23.10  Checking the condition of a flexible

brake hose

23.13  Prise the rubber plugs from the

backplates to inspect the leading brake

shoe linings

Every 000 miles