Diesel WARTSILA F 240. Manual (2004)

Manual

F 240

AIR INLET AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

8A INTRODUCTION

Air cooler

The combustion air passes the turbocharger and flows into the air cooler. The air

(1.4)

cooler cools the combustion air to receiver temperature.

In the air cooler there is a slight pressure drop. After the air cooler the combustion air

flows via the air receiver into the cylinders.

The reduction of the combustion air temperature, (raising of the specific mass), has

a good effect on the efficiency of the engine and on the temperatures in the engine.

When the cooling water temperature in the air cooler is too low, the receiver

temperature drops too much, resulting in a not--optimal combustion.

Contamination of the air cooler, the air part or the water part, gives a reduction in

capacity of the air cooler. As a result, the receiver temperature rises.

Contamination of the air part of the cooler decreases the pressure in the receiver.

See the Sub--suppliers manuals for a detailed description of the air cooler.

Exhaust manifold

The exhaust manifold can expand in all directions. There are compensators between

(2.1)

the exhaust manifold and the turbocharger and in between the exhaust manifold of

each cylinder configuration.

All parts of the exhaust manifold are insulated and protected by a steel plate cover.

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AIR INLET AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

8B COMBUSTION AIR REQUIREMENTS

Specification

The combustion air must meet the following requirements:

-- it must be sufficient free of:

-- dust ;

-- fluid ;

-- chemical pollution.

-- maximum resistance of the inlet system before the

turbocharger(s)

20 mbar ;

-- maximum resistance of the exhaust system

directly after the turbocharger(s)

30 mbar ;

-- receiver temperature

max

60^oC ;

-- maximum exhaust gas temperature after

the cylinder

450^oC ;

Reference

-- Barometric pressure

1,0 bar ;

conditions

-- Inlet air temperature

min -- max

0^oC--25^oC ;

-- Relative humidity at 298 K

30% ;

-- Resistance of the inlet system before

the turbocharger(s)

max

10 mbar ;

-- Receiver temperature

50^oC.

When the values of the reference conditions deviate, derate the output according to:

-- 0.4% per^oC inlet air temperature above the maximum ;

-- 0.4% per^oC receiver temperature above the maximum ;

-- 0.4% per^oC inlet air temperature below the minimum ;

Attention!

When adjusted reference specifications are provided and any values deviate from that

reference specification, the maximum engine output should be reduced according to

the above values.

Receiver pressure

Reduction of the pressure in the receiver can be caused by:

and exhaustgas

-- contamination of the compressor and the turbine of the turbocharger;

temperature

-- contamination of the air intake filter;

-- contamination of the air cooler ;

-- Receiver draining not set properly.

This causes a rise in exhaust gas temperatures and engine parts.

Thermal overload can occur:

-- if the receiver pressure drops ca. 0,2 bar lower than the value mentioned in the

test report. (maximum rpm and maximum setting of the H.P. fuel pumps);

-- and/or exceeding of the maximum exhaust gas temperature.

Reduce the load of the engine until the maximum exhaust temperatures are gained.

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AIR INLET AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

8C CHARGE AIR CONDENSATION

Before starting work, consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

Condensate is developed by cooling down of warm inlet air.

The condensate is constantly drained via two small discharges at the lowest points of

the air inlet housing.

1. Checking

When the engine is running under load, inlet air and condensate has to blow out of the

discharge

discharges.

opening

At a high air humidity it is normal that condensate flows constantly out of the discharge.

Check the discharge during ”normal” operation.

If no air blows out of the discharges this indicates that the discharges are blocked.

2. Inspection

Remove the discharges and check the connections of the air inlet casing and the

discharge

discharges for blockages.

When water still flows out of the discharges after the engine has been stopped, this

may point to a leaking air cooler element.

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AIR INLET AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

8D TURBOCHARGER

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- part 3, ”SUB SUPPLIERS MANUALS”.

1. General

Even the slightest fouling can cause a rise in temperature of the charge air and/or drop

of the charge air pressure after the compressor.

2. Cleaning

Cleaning has to be done by means of water injection, when the turbocharger is in oper-

compressor side

ation. The cleaning device is built on to the turbocharger. Cleaning may only be done

with fresh water.

For an effective cleaning it is necessary that the engine has been in operation for at

least 30 minutes and, if possible, at a minimum load of 80%. In other words, with the

highest possible speed of the turbocharger.

Attention!

-- It is only allowed to use clean water for cleaning the turbocharger ;

-- It is not allowed to use degreasing fluids, cleaning agents or other additives, be-

cause of inflammability, chemical attack on engine parts etc.

2. 1. Remove water injection tank A, fill it with fresh water and replace it again.

2. 2. Open valve C and all the water will be injected in about 5 seconds. Close the

valve when the tank is empty.

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AIR INLET AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

8D TURBOCHARGER

3. Cleaning the air

The filter must be cleaned from time to time. The frequence with which this must be

filter

done depends on the dust content of the suction air and the number of running hours

of the engine.

3. 1. The filter element can be removed by unscrewing the wing nuts and taking

off the cover.

3. 2. Before flushing the filter element in a hot soda solution or any other fat--dis-

solving liquid, any loose dirt should first be shaken off.

3. 3. The element must then be allowed to dry thoroughly, immersed in lubricating

oil and left to drain at room temperature for a period of 12 to 24 hours.

Note:

The filter may on no account be exposed to an open flame or great heat.

3. 4. To avoid suction of false air the wing nuts must be well tightened when reas-

sembling the filter.

3. 5. For a detailed information about other types of air filters, see the SUB

SUPPLIERS MANUALS.

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AIR INLET AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

8E EXHAUST COMPENSATORS

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

1. Necessary

Tool A.

tools

Dummy for the compensator. When replacing a compensator, a dummy is used for

aligning the exhaust pipe flanges.

Tool number 6104 F 457: 66562--001

Tool number 6104 F 459: 66562--004

2. Fitting of the

Practice has shown that a new compensator may rapidly become defective because

compensator

of misalignment of the connecting flanges causing the inner sleeve to vibrate against

the inside of the compensator, and cause the compensator to rupture.

This can be prevented by aligning the exhaust gas pipe with dummy A without gaskets.

Before a new compensator is installed the position of the exhaust flanges relative to

each other should be checked.

By calculating the length of the dummy, the pre--tension and the thickness of the

gaskets is acounted for. Make ssure that the two flanges are exactly parallel, and that

the bolt holes are in alignment.

2. 1. Make sure that the connecting flanges and the expansion joint are clean and

undamaged.

2. 2. Mind the direction of the gas flow.

Fit the exhaust compensator using two new gaskets.

Smear Molycolte, or another anti seize compound to the bolts.

2. 3. Tighten the nuts evenly and diagonally.

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STARTING AND STOPPING SYSTEM

9A INTRODUCTION

3. General

The starting and stopping system consists of various components among which a

compressor and an air bottle. The compressed air is only used for the following engine

procedures:

-- starting the engine;

-- controlling the electric/pneumatic stopping device ;

-- controlling the pneumatic oil pump (3.1) for the valve seat lubricator ;

-- controlling the order--dependent measuring and regulating equipment.

Paragraph 9B is a description of the starting and stopping procedure. Depending on

the installation it is possible to implement one or more actions.

4. Description of

This section gives a general description of engine parts. The most important engine

engine parts

parts are presented in the schematic diagram, section 9D. The numbers between

brackets correspond to the numbers in the schematic diagram.

Starting device

The compressed air is only used for the above mentioned engine procedures and

(1.--)

should be free of water.

In case the compressor forms part of the Stork--Wärtsilä Diesel supply, consult the

Sub--suppliers manuals for details.

The starting air is supplied via a starting air valve (1.3), to be operated manually or/and

electrically, as starting air to the starting air valves (1.5), and as pilot air to the air

distributor (1.6).

Stopping device

The engine can be stopped either by remote control, by means of the

(2.--)

electric/pneumatic stopping device activated by the security system or manually by

pushing down a stopping lever until the engine stops.

In case of an engine failure, a stopping signal is given from the security and alarm

system. This stopping signal causes the magnetic three--way valve (2.2) to open and

the pilot air flows via the filter--water separator and the reducing valve to the stopping

cylinder (2.3).

The stopping cylinder pushes the regulating shaft (2.4) and the racks of the fuel pumps

to zero, which causes the engine to stop.

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STARTING AND STOPPING SYSTEM

9B STARTING PROCEDURE

Prior to Starting

Prior to starting the following preparations have to be made:

Fuel system

o Check the fuel level of the day tank. Fill up if necessary ;

o Check if the valves are in the correct position.

Cooling water

o Check the cooling water level of the cooling water tank. Fill up if necessary;

system

o Check if the valves are in the correct position.

Starting and

o Check that the starting air pressure is 30 bar, pressurise if necessary ;

stopping system

o Open the air bottle valve of the starting air (and control air) ;

o Check that the stopping air pressure is 6 bar.

Alarm system

o Switch on the alarm system ;

o Check the stopping device.

Lubricating oil

o Check the oil level of the engine. Fill up if necessary;

system

o Check the oil level in the turbocharger, in case of VTR--version. Fill up, if necessary

o Check the movability of all fuel racks. Grease with engine lubricating oil, if

necessary ;

o Start the pre--lubrication system;

o Open the decompression cocks if applied, or put the starting handle in

decompression position.

Bar the engine two turns;

o Close the decompression cocks if applied, or put the starting handle in neutral

position ;

o Stop the prelubrication system, when the oil pressure gauge indicates pressure

or a minimum of 5 minutes after starting of the prelubrication system.

Start the engine as quickly as possible after stopping the prelubrication.

Within 25 sec. if a VTC turbocharger is applied.

Starting

o Starting by hand takes place by pushing the starting handle down ;

Operate the starting handle ;

o Stop operating the starting handle, as soon as combustion is heard ;

o Close the air supply to the starting handle ;

o Run the engine at low load until the oil temperature is minimal 50 ^oC. Then

increase the engine load uniformly to the desired load in about 20 minutes or

speed up the engine at nominal r.p.m. and load uniformly to the desired load in

about 20 minutes.

Stopping

Before stopping, the engine has to run at no load during max. two to three minutes in

order to prevent the cylinder and piston temperatures from rising unnecessarily high

after stopping the engine.

o Switch off the alarm system ;

o Close the valve of the day tank if the engine is not to be operated within1 day.

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STARTING AND STOPPING SYSTEM

9C STARTING AIR DISTRIBUTOR

Before starting work please, consult:

-- chapter 2, ” BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

The air distributor disc takes care that pilot air flows to the starting valve of the cylinder

just starting its firing stroke.

The air distributor disk is driven by the camshaft by means of a distributor shaft, the

direction of rotation is the same as the direction of rotation of the engine.

Replacing the

driver

Disconnect the air supply line E to the

cover of the starting air distributor.

Remove cover A and the gasket.

Pull the distributor shaft B, complete

with nut, distributor disc and driver,

out of the distributor housing.

Remove the dowel pin C from the

driver D and distributor shaft.

Fit the new driver with a new dowel

pin.

Place the distributor shaft, complete

with nut, distributor disc and driver,

into the distributor housing.

Attention!

There should be no clearance

between the distributor disc and the

distributor housing. If there is any

clearance, turn the complete

distributor shaft 180 .

The driver recesses “x” and “y” have

different lengths.

Checking the

setting

Turn the flywheel to 5

past top dead centre of e.g. cylinder 1. The first part of the slot

in the distributor disc should be 1/3 open to the air passage to cylinder 1 in the

distributor housing. Mind the direction of rotation!

If the setting is not correct see point 3.

Example of a 6 cylinder engine.

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STARTING AND STOPPING SYSTEM

9C STARTING AIR DISTRIBUTOR

Fit the cover, using a new gasket.

Connect the air supply line to the cover of the starting air distributor.

Setting the

distributor disc

Turn the flywheel to 5

past the top dead centre of e.g. cylinder 1.

Unscrew the air supply line to the cover of the starting air distributor.

Remove the cover and gasket.

Pull the distributor shaft, complete with nut, distributor disc and driver, out of

the distributor housing.

Loosen the nut by a few turns.

Pay attention to the type of thread, in connection with the direction of

rotation.

Look at the final digit on the rating plate of the starting air distributor.

1 = left--hand thread

2 = right--hand thread

Tap the end of the distributor shaft with a plastic hammer to separate the

distributor disc from the conical part.

Tighten the nut manually, but not too tightly, so that the distributor disc can

still turn on the shaft.

Place the distributor shaft, complete with nut, distributor disc and driver, into

the distributor housing.

There should be no clearance between the distributor disc and the

distributor housing.

If there is any clearance, turn the complete distributor shaft 180 .

Set the distributor disc so that the first part of the slot in the distributor disc is

1/3 open to the air passage to cylinder 1 in the distributor housing.

Pay attention to the direction of rotation!

Example of a 6 cylinder engine.

3. 10.Tighten the nut without turning the distributor disc.

3. 11. Fit the cover with a new gasket.

3. 12.Fit the air supply line to the cover of the starting air distributor.

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STARTING AND STOPPING SYSTEM

9D GENERAL DIAGRAM

Explanation of the numbers in the diagram, of a 6 cylinder clockwise turning engine for

operation on MDO. The pipelines between the engine parts 1.2 to 1.5 are for starting air,

the other pipelines are for pilot air.

Starting system

No.

Name

Air compressor

Air bottle

Starting air intermediate valve, (manual and/or electrically

controlled)

Safety valve

Starting valve (per cylinder)

Air distributor

Stopping device

Non return valve

Electric/pneumatic three--way valve (for overspeed security)

Stopping cylinder

Fuel control shaft

Pneumatic pump

Electric/pneumatic four--way valve

Reducing valve

Miscellaneous

Needle valve

Filter/water seperator

Reducing valve

Explanation

PAL

Pressure alarm Low

letters

Pressure indicator

Pressure switch

1.4

1.5

4.1

1.6

1.3

3.1

3.2

2.2

3.3

4.2

2.3

2.4

4.1

2.1

4.3

1.2

1.1

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ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10A DESCRIPTIONS

5. General

The engine is provided with equipment for protection against several kinds of faults.

The engine protection system is divided into:

-- speed transmitter ;

-- alarm and protection switches ;

-- alarm and protection unit

optional delivery ;

-- co--signaling board

optional delivery.

For a general description see points 2 to 5 of this section.

The alarm and protection system can be delivered, suitable for flush mounting, for wall

mounting or in a switch board.

Depending on the performance and application of the engine, either (stationary)

generator duty or propulsion, the speed governor is provided with and controlled by

an electric speed adjusting motor or a pneumatic speed adjusting cylinder for remote

control. At any load, the engine speed which was adjusted by the speed governor, can

be changed remotely with this motor or cylinder.

The electric speed adjusting motor is also of importance when a number of engines

are working in parallel on one electrical system. In this case, it is necessary to

synchronize the speed of the engine to be switched in, before switching on the circuit

breaker.

With the electric speed adjusting motor it is also possible to correct the load distribution

over the engines. If necessary, this can be done while they are working in parallel.

For information about the engine speed governor see the SUB--SUPPLIERS

MANUALS.

Speed

To achieve the necessary signals and speed dependent switch functions, the engine

measuring

is provided with an electronic speed transmitter with an electro--magnetic speed

system

sensor.

See section 10C for the diagram, in the standard design, comprising the following

components:

6. 1. Electro--magnetic speed sensor (B):

An electro--magnetic speed sensor directed of the teeth of the camshaft--

gearwheel, provides the signal for the speed transmitter.

This sensor provides a frequency signal to the speed transmitter, equal to the

number of teeth of the camshaft gearwheel passing every second.

6. 2. Supply card (E1):

The speed transmitter is provided with a supply card, which takes care of the

necessary stabilised voltages for the other components of the system.

The required input voltage for this card itself is standard 24 volt DC (min. 20 and

max. 32 volt, including eventual ripples)

6. 3. Key--switch (2):

In order to be able to test the proper functioning of the overspeed protection the

speed transmitter is provided with a key switch with two positions:

“normal”, the standard overspeed protection functions as adjusted will trip

the engine at an actual speed of 1.15 times the rated speed ;

“test”, In the case of an engine in operation the increase of engine speed is

simulated and the overspeed relay will be actuated at approx. 60% of the rated

speed.

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ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10A DESCRIPTIONS

Converter / overspeed card

(E3)

This card has two functions:

-- the converting part:

Converts the frequency signal of the electro--magnetic speed sensor in to a DC

voltage signal for the overspeed part and the separate speed dependant

switch functions.

This DC voltage signal is directly proportional to the number of rotations of the

engine. The relation between the input frequency signal of the speed sensor

and the output DC voltage signal of the converter can be adjusted by means

of a potentiometer, located on the card.

-- the overspeed part:

This part receives the output DC voltage signal of the converter part and is

provided with a voltage dependant relay, to stop the engine in case of

overspeed. The voltage, on which this relay switches, can be adjusted by

means of a second potentiometer, also located on this card.

When the voltage from the converter exceeds the set value, the relay will be

actuated, and this activates the shut down system of the engine by means of

its contact. The overspeed protection for the engine is set as standard to 1.15

times the nominal speed of the engine which means that the adjustment of the

overspeed relay can be determined, independent from the type of engine.

Note !

The adjustments of the converter card and the overspeed card are calibrated by

Stork--Wärtsilä Diesel with special equipment. Since the complete protection of

the engine depends on this adjustment, other people are not allowed to change

these adjustments. This is also the case for the cards (E4) and (E5).

The other cards are adjusted depending on their function, (for instance the delay

time for a stopping signal).

Alarm system on card

(E4):

With this speed switch card the alarm system of the engine can be switched on

and off. The working of this card is identical to the description of the overspeed

part of the earlier mentioned converter/overspeed card and is adjusted to switch

at 250 r.p.m. as standard When the engine can be remotely started, this card also

has the function of switching off the start command above 250 r.p.m.

Switch--on card for lubricating oil pressure alarm above 500 rpm (E5):

This card, which is only supplied for engines with variable speed, such as

propulsion engines, switches on the 2nd pressure switch for the low lubricating

oil pressure alarm above 500 r.p.m. and inhibits this switch below this speed. The

working of the card is identical to the working of the overspeed part of the

converter/overspeed card, and is adjusted, so that it switches at 500 r.p.m. as

standard

The alarm at low lubricating oil pressure is, with regards to the characteristic of

the engine driven lubricating oil pump, divided into two parts. Namely one below

and one above 500 r.p.m. Engines with variable speed are therefore provided

with two pressure switches for alarm at low lubricating pressure. One of these

switches is adjusted to a certain value for the speed area below 500 r.p.m., and

the other one to a higher value for the speed area above 500 r.p.m.

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ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10A DESCRIPTIONS

7. Wire break monitoring card for the stopping device

(E6):

This provision is only supplied when it is specially required by the applicable

classification society, and must be seen as an optional extra. In order to monitor

wire breaks in the shutdown system, a special card is built in. By means of this

card the electric circuit between the plus (+) of the supply voltage, the wiring and

the coil of the shutdown system to the minus (--) of the supply voltage, can be

monitored. For this purpose, a very low current flows via the earlier mentioned

circuit. This current is not capable of activating the shutdown system, but is

capable of activating the relay on the wire break monitoring card.

When the circuit is broken, by a lack of supply voltage, wire break or the burning

out of the shutdown solenoid, the relay will be de--actuated and give alarm.

8. Speed indicator

(7):

The speed indicator, which indicates the speed of the engine, is in fact a moving

coil instrument with a range of 0--6 volt DC, provided with a scale of 0--1200 r.p.m.

9. Reset button

(8):

With this push button, and signal light, the overspeed trip can be reset and/or

signaled. When the overspeed protection is activated, the overspeed relay is

locked, which means that it cannot be de--actuated, as a consequence the lower

entry--voltage of the relay, caused by the reducing speed of the stopping engine.

To be able to start the engine again, the reset button must be pushed to remove

this lock. With the signal light, the stopping of the engine (as a consequence of

overspeed) can be signaled visually.

10.Running hours counter

(9):

The running hours counter is fed by the supply voltage of the system, and is

switched in by the speed switch card which also switches on the alarm system.

7. Alarm and

In order to prevent damage to the engine, as a consequence of a fault in a vital system,

protection

such as the cooling water, lubricating oil and shut down system, these are provided

switches

with alarm and protection switches.

In case of a dangerous deviation from the normal operating conditions (pressure

and/or temperature) in the relevant system, these switches give a signal to an alarm

and protection system, situated in another location (e.g. in a switchboard or an

operation desk).

When it concerns one or more stop switches, this system will also give a stopping

command to the electric/pneumatic stopping system, which belongs to the standard

equipment of the engine.

For the alarm and protection switches and the settings see the terminal diagram.

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ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10A DESCRIPTIONS

8. Alarm and

The alarm and protection units display the alarm and protection signals of the engine.

protection unit

See section 10D for the diagram, in the standard design, comprising of the following

components:

8. 1. Supply card

(1.1):

The supply voltage can be signaled with an illuminated push button -- SUPPLY

ON/LAMP TEST -- with a blue lens; with this push button all signal lamps in the

system can be tested.

In order to silence the audible warning, the system is provided with an illuminated

push button -- KLAXON RESET -- with a yellow lens, which remains as on long

as the audible alarm is given.

In order to cancel the visual alarm, the system is provided with an illuminated

push button -- ALARM RESET -- with an orange lens.

When this push button is operated, while the fault has not yet been removed, the

flashing of the signal--light for the fault disturbance changes into a continuous

signal, however, the illuminated push button will remain flashing until the fault has

been removed.

After the fault has been removed, the flashing signal--light of the illuminated push

button as well as the continuously lit signal--light for the relevant fault will switch

off.

In case the fault has already been removed before the illuminated push button

could be operated, the flashing frequency of the relevant fault--light will only be

half the normal value.

In the case of faults, which cause the engine to be stopped, the shutdown

command is locked by the system. To be able to release this lock, the system is

provided with an illuminated push button -- STOP RESET -- with a red lens, the

signal light of which stays on as long as the stopping command is not removed.

8. 2. Delay card

(1.2):

Directly after the engine is started, the lubricating oil pressure will be insufficient

due to the fact that the pump is driven by the engine. To avoid this causing an

alarm and shutdown command, a delay in the system is built in, with which the

signal of the relevant switches (such as pressure and flow) is inhibited, until the

pressure of the lubricating oil has a sufficient value.

When this inhibit is released, and the system is completely on stand--by, this is

signaled by a signal light -- ALARM SYSTEM ON -- with a green lens.

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ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10A DESCRIPTIONS

8. 3. Alarm cards

(1.3):

Signal indicators, for alarm only, are equipped with illuminated push buttons with

orange lenses.

The signal indicators, which also have a shut--down function, and the illuminated

push buttons are provided with red lenses.

By means of the push button element of the illuminated push button, each alarm

and protection function can be tested separately.

8. 4. Signal light / klaxon

(1.5 / 1.4):

When a fault takes place, the visual warning is given by the flashing of the

relevant signal light. The audible warning is given by a separate klaxon (1.4),

which can be connected to the system.

9. Co--signaling

In order to co--signal the engine alarm and protection unit, an additional board can be

board

supplied suitable to be built in to a desk. See general diagram section 10D.

The co--signaling board is provided with a speed indicator that is connected with the

0--6 V signal of card (E3).

Each illuminated push button is connected to the alarm and protection unit and follows

the signal of the alarm and protection unit.

The illuminated push button ”SIGNAL TEST / ALARM IN” signals the working of the

alarm and protection unit. All illuminated push buttons can be checked by means of

operating the button.

The illumination of push button ”SIGNAL TEST / ALARM IN” and the speed indicator

can be regulated by means of a dimmer (2.4).

When there is an alarm the corresponding signal indicator, the buzzer and the

illuminated push button indicator (”RESET BUZZER”) are switched on. The buzzer

and the signal indicator will be switched off as soon as the push button is pressed.

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ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10B TESTING THE SETTINGS

1. General

The settings of the alarm and trip switches on the engine and of the printed circuit

boards in the electronic speed transmitter are given in the test report and the electrical

drawings delivered with the engines.

Tests, Checks

In order to protect components on the cards against static electricity, avoid contacting

Calibrations

them with insufficiently grounded tools/objects.

Checking the availability of the alarm and safety system:

If the stand by lamp (usually green) is on, the alarm and safety system are

available.

Checking the overspeed trip and shut down device:

Stopped engine:

Put the key in “TEST” position and press “RESET” button. This should actuate

the shut down system and light the red lamp.

Restore the key to “NORMAL” and press “RESET” button.

Running engine:

Run the engine at approx. 65% r.p.m. Put the key in “TEST” position this should

actuate the shut down system.

Restore the key to “NORMAL” and press “RESET” button.

Checking the switching of the alarm and trip switches:

In order to avoid false alarms certain alarm and trip switches are only activated

at certain engine speeds (usually 250 r.p.m.). It is possible now to check that the

red LED on printed circuit board E4 (inside the electronic speed transmitter) lights

up when increasing over the set speed.

Checking the change--over to low pressure lubricating oil alarm at high

speed.(variable speed engines only):

Two switches are mounted for alarm at the loss of or decrease in lubricating oil

pressure. One at high and the other at low speed. The change over is usually

effected at 500 r.p.m. Check the test report for the correct value.The switch for

the high speed is inhibited below the set speed.

It is possible to check now that the red LED on printed circuit board E5 (inside

the electronic speed transmitter) lights up when increasing over the set speed.

Ver. 01

10 -- 6

Manual

F 240

ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10B TESTING THE SETTINGS

2. 5. Checking the operation of cards, alarm, delay and stop functions:

All alarm and trip switches should be checked by hand operation when the engine

is running. If the switches operate correctly the corresponding signal will appear

on the alarm and safety system and the engine will be tripped if applicable.

When checking the lubricating oil pressure alarm and trip on variable speed

engines the tests must be carried out at two different speeds.

2. 6. Temperature and pressure switch calibration:

All temperatures -- and pressure switches can be tested by symulating the

temperature and/or pressure.

And can be checked if the micro switch switches at the set value (see test report).

If necessary, reset the transmitters.

Note!

Temperature switches should always be tested when the temperature is rising

and pressure switches when the pressure is falling.

For possible exceptions see test report or electrical circuit diagram.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

10 -- 7

Manual

F 240

ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10C DIAGRAM RPM MEASURING SYSTEM

Explanation of the item numbers in the diagram.

Key to numbers

No.

Description

E1.

Supply circuit:

1. 1.Supply voltage.

Key switch

E3.

Converter/over speed printed circuit:

3. 1. Rpm input signal.

3. 2. Overspeed alarm signal ;

3. 3. Overspeed stopping signal ;

3. 4. Converted rpm signal.

E4.

Switching printed circuit for alarm:

4. 1. Engine speed > 250 rpm.

E5.

Switching printed circuit for lubricating oil pressure alarm

high speed ( only on propulsion engines ):

5. 1. Engine speed signal > 500 rpm.

E6.

Wire break printed circuit:

6. 1. Alarm signal wire break stopping air solenoid valve.

Rpm indicator ;

Reset button ;

Running hours counter.

Key to letters

No. Description

A Camshaft gear wheel ;

B Impulse pick--up ;

C Stopping air solenoid valve ;

D External stopping signals.

No standard delivery Stork--Wärtsilä Diesel.

Ver. 01

10 -- 8

Manual

F 240

ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

10D DIAGRAM ALARM AND SAFETY

Explanation of components in the schematic diagram ALARM AND SAFETY SYSTEM

and Co--signaling tableau, (see next page).

Alarm and safety

No.

Description

system

Mains supply printed circuit:

1.1.1

Supply voltage ;

1.1.2

General alarm signal;

1.1.3

Stopping signal;

1.1.4

Press button/indicator lamp klaxon reset ;

1.1.5

Press button/indicator lamp supply in/lamp test ;

1.1.6

Press button/indicator lamp stop reset ;

1.1.7

Press button/indicator lamp alarm reset.

System delay card:

1.2.1

Signal number of engine revolutions > 250 rpm ;

1.2.2

Indicator lamp alarm.

Alarm cards :

1.3.1

Signals of alarm and safety switches ;

1.3.2

Press button/indicator lamp alarm test/alarm ;

1.3.3

Signals for co--signaling.

Klaxon ;

Rotating flash light ;

Contacts for remote--signalling and control.

Co--signaling

No.

Description

tableau

Rpm indicator:

2.1.1 Speed signal.

Press button/indicator lamp buzzer reset ;

Press button/indicator lamp test/alarm in ;

Dimmer ;

Indicator lamp for co--signalling ;

Indicator lamp engine stopped.

Key to letters

No.

Description

Engine and installation.

Electronic measuring system.

Ver. 01

10 -- 10

Manual

F 240

MAIN BEARINGS

11A NECESSARY TOOLS

Tool A

9612 F 911 A Tool for removal / fitting the main bearing nuts.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Item No.

Description

Tool No.

Qty

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BOOMERANG SPANNER

9612 F 010

On the spanner a formula has either been punched in or stuck on. In this formula, L is

the length of the torque spanner from the centre of the handgrip to the centre of the pivot

on the spanner extension. The formula is applicable if the torque spanner is used in line

with the boomerang spanner. If the torque spanner is used at right angles to the

boomerang spanner, there will be no change in torque.

Ver. 01

11 -- 1

Manual

F 240

MAIN BEARINGS

11B REMOVAL

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2 -- BACKGROUND INFORMATION ;

-- chapter 3 -- TECHNICAL DATA.

Remove crank case covers on both sides of the bearing.

Disconnect the lube oil supply pipe to the main bearing cap.

Loosening of the main bearing cap nuts and upper bearing shell:

3. 1. Fold back the locking plate and undo the main bearing nuts. The nuts can

normally be undone with a long ratchet spanner, but if they cannot be

reached in this way, the boomerang spanner, Tool A, can be used as an

extension to the ratchet.

3. 2. Remove the bearing cap with the upper bearing shell.

Mark the bearing shell e.g. with a felt--pen, so that the used bearing

shell can be placed in exactly the same position and in the same place.

Removal of the lower bearing shell:

4. 1. Fit the driver into the oil channel of the crankshaft. If necessary, turn the

engine first.

4. 2. The direction of rotation is indicated in the figure.

Pay attention to positioning lug ”A”.

Carefully turn the driver against the bearing shell until it is turned out.

Remove the bearing shell.

Mark the bearing shell e.g. with a felt--pen, so that the used bearing

shell can be fitted in exactly the same position, and in the same place.

4. 3. Turn further so that the driver can be removed.

Jig

”A” Positioning lug

Driver

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

11 -- 4

Manual

F 240

MAIN BEARINGS

11C REPLACEMENT

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2 -- BACKGROUND INFORMATION ;

-- chapter 3

-- TECHNICAL DATA.

Carefully clean and dry the bearing saddle, the bearing cap, the bearing shells and

crankshaft with a lint free cotton cloth.

Replacement of the lower bearing shell:

2. 1. Fit the driver into the oil channel of the crankshaft. If necessary, turn the

engine first.

2. 2. Turn back the engine until the bearing shell can be fitted.

Lubricate the running layer of the bearing shell sparingly with engine oil. The

back surface must remain dry!

Always refit used bearing shells in exactly the same position and in the same

place.

Place the end of the bearing shell in the slot between the journal and the

bearing saddle. Mind the positioning lug.

Centre it with the jig, Tool C, and push it in by hand as far as possible, (about

1/3 of its length).

2. 3. Slowly turn the driver against the bearing shell joint. Turn the bearing shell

slowly into position until the bearing shell joints are about level with the

joining faces of the cylinder block. The joints must be thoroughly cleaned.

Whilst turning the bearing, keep one hand on the exposed surface, and

make sure the bearing shell stays in contact with the crank shaft journal.

2. 4. Turn back and remove the driver.

Make sure that the positioning the lug of the lower bearing shell, engages with the

recess in the bearing saddle.

Replacement of the upper bearing shell and the bearing cap:

4. 1. Carefully clean the bearing cap bore and the abutting faces of the bearing

cap.

4. 2. Place the upper bearing shell in position (the one with the oil groove). Mind

the positioning lug.

4. 3. Lubricate the running layer of the bearing shell sparingly with engine oil. The

back surface must remain dry.

4. 4. Fit the bearing cap together with the upper half shell into position.

4. 5. Make sure the bearing shells are in line.

Tightening the bearing cap:

5. 1. Prior to tightening the main bearing cap nuts, lubricate the threads on the

studs and the nuts sparingly with engine oil.

5. 2. Use new locking plates and tighten the bearing cap nuts diagonally in two

steps to the torque specified in chapter three Technical Data.

5. 3. Secure the bearing cap nuts by means of the locking plates.

Ver. 01

11 -- 5

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER BLOCK

13A INTERNAL INSPECTION

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

11. Crankshaft space

For safety reasons, before removing all crankcase covers:

close starting air supply to the engine ;

open decompression cocks;

Attention must be paid to the following :

the axial movement of the big end of the connecting rod on the crank pin journal

carbon build-up under or near the cylinder liners ;

local discolouration of the paint ;

fouling and the presence of impurities ;

the presence of metal particles ;

water leakage, notably around the cylinder liners ;

running face of the gear wheels ;

when a piston is at its T.D.C., part of the associated cylinder liner can be

examined ;

the locking arrangement of the con rod nuts ;

the welds locking the counter weight bolts in place ;

when a piston is at its B.D.C., part of the associated piston can be examined ;

start pre--lubricating pump and check for internal leakage.

12. Cooling water

For inspection of the cooling water spaces around the cylinder liners it is necessary

spaces

to remove one or more cylinder liners.

For removal of cylinder liners, please consult chapter 15C.

By removing the covers of the cooling water supply channel this space can be

inspected.

The cooling water spaces have to be visually inspected on the following:

-- Serious corrosion ;

-- Cavitation ;

-- Sludge formation ;

-- Line deposits and any other abnormalities.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

13 -- 1

Manual

F 240

EXPLOSION VALVE

14A CHECKING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

13. Remove the crankcase cover complete with explosion valve.

14. Put the crankcase cover with the housing of the explosion valve downwards.

15. Push with a force between 25 and 30 kgs on the valve (A). The valve should now

open. Push again with a larger force, so that the valve can open completely.

Attention!

When the valve can not be opened or only partly, remove valve A with guide bolt B.

Clean the valve seat, valve and guide bolt and make them to run easily again. Fit

the valve using a new O--ring.

16. Replace the crankcase cover complete with explosion valve.

O--ring

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

14 -- 1

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER LINER

15B INSPECTION

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

17. Endoscope

The use of an endoscope takes some practice and experience. In most cases, it is

inspection

rather difficult to interpret correctly the pattern observed.

Therefore, it is recommended to have endoscope inspections carried out by service

engineers of Stork Wärtsilä Diesel.

The cylinder liner can be inspecteded visually without removing the cylinderhead,by

using an endoscope.

The cylinder liner can be inspected through the nozzle hole in the cylinder head, from

which the nozzle with holder must first be removed.

For removal and refitting the nozzle with holder see chapter 17.

18. Inspection points

Inspect the cylinder liner for the following points :

-- scratches ;

-- honing pattern ;

-- burnt spots ;

-- lacquer formation ;

-- shiny stains or bands ;

-- carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

15 -- 2

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER LINER

15C REMOVAL

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

bridge

1. Remove the cylinder head. See section

piece

18B.

2. Remove the piston and connecting rod

assembly. See section 16E.

Tool A

Removal cylinder liner:

3. 1. Place the upper flange on the

cylinder liner top edge.

3. 2. Fit the lower flange with the

threaded rod and nut M30 and

screw the second nut onto the top

of the threaded rod.

3. 3. Protect the crankpin and provide

in the crankcase a facility allowing

any residual cooling water or dirt

to be collected.

3. 4. Screw the eye nut onto the

threaded rod and hoist the liner

out of the cylinder block.

It may be necessary to use a

bridge piece over the cylinder

head studs as shown, to loosen

the cylinder liner. This is not a

standard delivery tool.

Clean and inspect the cooling water jacket.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

15 -- 3

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER LINER

15D FITTING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

When fitting a new or honed cylinder liner,

the piston rings must be renewed.

Proceed as follows.

First, clean the liner collar carefully inside

and outside as well as the location of the

O--ring seals.

Check the supporting edge and the gas

sealing face of the cylinder liner for

damage.

The gas sealing face can be ground with

the grinding ring.

Apply Molykote G--n--plus paste:

Attention!

When fitting a cylinder liner, always use

new O--rings. Fit the O--rings with silicone

grease. Stretch the O--rings as little as

possible. The O--rings may not be twisted

after they have been fitted.

Molykote

O--rings

Apply a thin, even film of Molykote

G--n--plus

G--n--plus paste, as shown in the figure.

Remove any excess paste.

Clean the cooling water spaces in the cylinder block and inspect them.

Clean the supporting face and the lower and upper bores of the cylinder block.

Check the supporting face and the bores for damage.

The supporting face can be ground with the grinding ring.

Tool A

Hoisting the cylinder liner:

7. 1. Hoist the cylinder liner into the cylinder block with the aid of the flanges, the

threaded rod and nuts.

It may be necessary to push the cylinder liner into its recess to make it fit. This

can be done using a bridge piece over the cylinder head studs as shown.

This is not a standard delivery tool.

7. 2. Detach the hoisting gear.

Fit piston and con rod assembly. See section 16K.

Fit cylinder head. See section 18C.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

15 -- 4

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16A GENERAL DESCRIPTION

10.

Piston

The piston tightens in the cylinder by means of three compression rings and is

equipped with one oil scraper ring. Dismantling of the piston with connecting rod is only

possible after dismantling the cylinder head.

The steel top part of the piston may not be removed other than in consultation with

the Service Department of Stork--Wärtsilä Diesel. This means that piston heads must

on no account be removed when a routine maintenance job is being effected.

Quick pollution of the pistons may be caused by fuel or lubricating oil of inferior quality,

bad combustion or high lubricating oil consumption.

Stuck piston rings cause loss of power due to escape of air and combustion gases into

the crankcase, which can be detected by excessive crankcase pressure and oil

leaving the sump.

Oil incrustations on the piston should be scraped away carefully, after which the piston

should thoroughly cleaned with gasoil.

Generally it is not necessary to remove the connecting rod from the piston as long as

it moves freely round the gudgeon pin without excessive clearance.

If dismantling of the connecting rod should be necessary remove the locking rings from

the gudgeon pin and push the pin out. It is then possible to remove the connecting rod

from the piston.

Make sure the piston rings move easily in their grooves.

Damaged piston rings should be replaced.

When fitting new piston rings the utmost care must be taken in order not to damage,

deform or break the rings.

When fitting rings care should be taken that they are fitted with the word ”Top” to the

top side.

If piston rings that have been used are fitted again, there is the disadvantage that any

unroundness that may have arisen which is difficult to prevent, will only disappear after

a long time by running in.

This may not only be the cause of a high consumption of lubricating oil, but also of

leakage of exhaust gases and pollution of the engine.

Before fitting the new piston rings the grooves in the piston should be oiled. Put the

lock ring for the gudgeon pin back in place and the nuts of the connecting rod bolts

must be tightened with the correct torque and locked in the right way.

When working on the pistons, care should be taken to prevent mechanical damage.

This is particularly important for light metal pistons.

Attention should also be paid that nothing hits the piston when it is hoisted.

Put the piston down by preference on soft material e.g. wood.

Especially the banging of the connecting rod against the piston skirt may cause serious

damage and should always be avoided.

The concerning rod may only be put to rest against the piston skirt very carefully, so

without even the slightest shock.

The connecting rods are open heart steel forgings. The rods are drilled through for the

11. Connecting rod

lubrication oil supply from big end bearing shells to the small end bearing shell.

The small end bearing in the connecting rod is constructed as eye bearing, whilst the

big end bearings are precision bearing shells.

If only the big end bearing shells have to be inspected or replaced, it is not necassary

to remove the piston with connecting rod.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 1

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16B NECESSARY TOOLS

Tool A

9612 F 920 A Set of tools for removal / fitting the piston with

connecting rod.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Item No.

Description

Tool No.

Qty

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLAMPING RING

9612 F 007

HOISTING RING

9612 F 015

HOLDER

9612 F 266

SNAP--ON PIN

9612 F 017

LEVER

9612 F 188

SUPPORTING STRIP

9612 F 191

BOLT

0141 ..168

HOLDING PLUG

9612 F 225

Item 1

CLAMPING RING.

Used to hold the piston rings in place whilst fitting the piston back into the liner.

Ver. 01

16 -- 2

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16B NECESSARY TOOLS

Tool B

9612 F 910 A Tool for removal the connecting rod cap and the crankpin

bearing shell.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Item No.

Description

Tool No.

Qty

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PISTON SUPPORT

9612 F 009

JACK BOLT

9612 F 017

Item 1

PISTON SUPPORT.

This sits on a main bearing cap, and clamps against a cylinder

liner during the changing of a big end bearing, in order to

support the weight of the piston.

Item 2

JACK BOLTS.

These force the connecting rod cap off the connecting rod if,

after a period of service, it has become jammed on.

Ver. 01

16 -- 5

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16C REMOVAL BIG END BEARING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

If only the big end bearings have to be inspected or replaced, it is not necessary to remove

the piston and connecting rod.

Remove the crank case covers of the bearing to be removed.

Tool A

Removal of connecting rod cap:

2. 1. Tap the folded locking plates under the connecting rod nuts straight.

2. 2. Loosen the connecting rod nuts. First slacken the nuts to prevent the connecting

rod cap from falling into the sump. If the cap sticks to the foot, use two jack bolts,

Tool B item 2, to release the connecting rod cap with the bottom bearing shell

from the connecting rod foot.

2. 3. Turn the piston to Top Dead Centre.

2. 4. Remove three connecting rod bolts.

2. 5. Holding on to the connecting rod cap, take out the fourth connecting rod bolt.

BEWARE of the weight.

2. 6. Remove the connecting rod cap.

Tool A + B

Removal of the upper bearing shell:

3. 1. Place two holding plugs,

Tool A item 8, diagonally in

the bolt holes of the

connecting rod foot to

keep the upper bearing

shell from falling out.

3. 2. Position the support for

the piston, Tool B, in such

a way that the support

base rests on the main

bearing cap, and fit the

bolt with the other end of

the holder inside the

cylinder liner, around the

bottom end of the liner,

and under the piston and

make sure the securing

plate is tightened.

3. 3. Carefully turn away the

crank pin from under the

piston and connecting

rod.

Ver. 01

16 -- 7

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16D FITTING BIG END BEARING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA” .

Pay attention to the following points during the fitting procedure:

1. 1. The fitting procedure of big end bearings has to be completed for each

connecting rod separately in order to avoid displacement of the bearing

shells and oil leakage to the back surface of the bearings.

1. 2. Bearing shells can be placed back depending on the wear pattern, the

running hours and on the condition of the running surface.

Used bearing shells must be replaced in exactly the same position (see

marking on the bearing shells).

Thoroughly clean and dry the connecting rod foot with a lint free cotton cloth.

Only lubricate the running layers of the bearing shells sparingly with engine

oil! The back surface of the bearing shells must remain dry!

Tool A

Fitting upper bearing shell:

3. 1. Fit the crank pin upper bearing shell in to the connecting rod foot. This shell

has no oil holes.

3. 2. Prevent the bearing shell from falling out by placing two holding plugs in two

diagonally opposite bolt holes, (item 8).

3. 3. Check if the bearing shell lug engages properly with the slot in the

connecting rod foot.

3. 4. Lubricate the crank pin sparingly with clean lubrication oil.

3. 5. Before turning the crankshaft in the connecting rod foot, make sure that the

bore and the faces of the connecting rod foot are clean, dry, and

undamaged.

3. 6. Turn the crank pin carefully under the connecting rod foot.

3. 7. Pull the holding plugs out of the connecting rod foot bolt holes.

3. 8. Check again that the bearing shell lug engages properly with the slot in the

connecting rod foot.

Tool B

Fitting of the bearing cap:

4. 1. Fit the lower bearing shell in to the connecting rod cap. This shell is

identifiable by the longitudinal oil groove with lubrication oil holes.

4. 2. Check if the bearing shell positioning lug engages properly with the slot in the

connecting rod cap.

4. 3. Lubricate the bearing shell running surface sparingly with clean lubrication

oil. The back surface MUST remain dry!!

Fit the connecting rod bearing cap. Beware of the weight of the cap.

4. 4. Make sure that the serial numbers on the connecting rod foot and the

connecting rod cap correspond and are located above one another.

Ver. 01

16 -- 9

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16D FITTING BIG END BEARING

4. 5. Fit the connecting rod bolts with new locking plates.

4. 6. Screw the connecting rod nuts hand--tight, diagonally, after lubricating the

thread flanks and the contact faces sparingly with clean lubrication oil.

4. 7. The connecting rod bolts have one flat side which needs to face towards the

cap.

4. 8. Remove the piston support.

5. Tighten the connecting rod nuts diagonally in two steps, to the torque specified in

chapter three Technical Data.

6. Tap the corners of the locking plates up against the nuts.

7. Check if the connecting rod has enough play around the crank pin.

It must now be possible to move the connecting rod easily in the axial direction. If

not, the cause must be found.

8. Prelubricate the engine and check if the bearing is getting oil.

9. Replace the crankcase covers.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 10

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16E REMOVING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

If only the big end bearings have to be inspected or replaced, it is not necessary to remove

the piston and connecting rod.

Remove the cylinder head, see section

18B.

Remove the carbon build--up from the

liner edge. Do not use a sharp object

for this purpose.

Remove the connecting rod cap. See

section 16B.

Tool A

Fixing the piston and connecting rod:

4. 1. Turn the piston to Top Dead

Centre.

4. 2. Place two holding plugs, item 8,

into two diagonally opposite bolt

holes in the con rod foot to

prevent the upper bearing half

shell from falling.

4. 3. Fit the support strip B, to the

cylinder block using the bolts.

4. 4. Place the holder G, coupled to

the lever E, by means of the pin

D, in the con rod foot.

4. 5. Using the lever, force the piston

and con rod upwards so that the upper piston ring comes to rest on the cylinder

liner edge.

4. 6. Remove the holder and lever assembly, pull the holding plugs out of the

connecting rod foot, and remove the upper bearing shell.

Tool A

Removing the piston and connecting rod:

5. 1. Remove the carbon of the piston top side.

5. 2. Fit the hoisting ring, item A.

The eye bolt faces must be level with the top of the piston.

5. 3. Hoist the piston and con rod assembly out of the cylinder liner.

5. 4. Protect the crankpin.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 11

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16F REMOVAL OF GUDGEON PIN

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

1. Remove piston and connecting rod. See chapter 16D.

2. Place the piston and connecting rod on a wooden block.

3. Lift the connecting rod so far that the weight is free from the

gudgeon pin.

4. Remove one circlip.

5. Remove the gudgeon pin.

If necessary, use a hammer and a copper bar. Do not touch the

inner cap of the gudgeon pin, and avoid damage to the piston.

If the gudgeon pin sticks, it is allowed to heat the aluminium

piston skirt evenly to about

30^oC above the ambient

temperature.

6. Lift the connecting rod out of the piston. Keep gudgeon pin,

piston and connecting rod of the same cylinder together!

For inspection of parts, consult chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”

(No--Go criteria).

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 12

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16G FITTINGOF GUDGEON PIN

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION”.

1. Clean all parts carefully prior to fitting. Take care not to damage the aluminium

piston skirt! Never use emery cloth.

2. Place the piston crown on a wooden block.

3. If both inner circlips have been removed, fit one inner circlip with the open end

towards the bottom side of the piston in order not to block the oil drain holes.

4. Place the gudgeon pin into the gudgeon pin bore of the piston until the first oil

channel of the gudgeon pin is visible.

If the gudgeon pin sticks, it is allowed to heat the aluminium skirt evenly to about

30^oC above the ambient temperature.

5. Sparingly lubricate the gudgeon bore of the connecting rod with engine oil.

6. Attention!

Take care that the connecting rod has the correct position with respect to the

protrusion in the piston skirt.

Looking at the cylinder number of the connecting rod, the protrusion must be on the

left--hand side.

Carefully lower the connecting rod until it just rests on the gudgeon pin and push

the gudgeon pin further until it touches the circlip.

Protrusion

Oil channel

7. Fit the second circlip in the same way as the first one.

8. Check the connecting rod for movement in the axial direction.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 13

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16H REMOVAL OF PISTON RINGS

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA” .

Tool C

1. Removing piston rings:

1. 1. Release the spring tension of supporting plate B by means of lever A. Push

supporting plate B against the inner rim of the piston ring pliers by hand.

Place the piston ring pliers around the piston ring with protrusions E into the

gap.

1. 2. Tension supporting plate B by means of lever A.

1. 3. Tension the piston ring pliers by moving the handle F inwards.

1. 4. Remove the piston ring.

For inspection of parts, consult chapter 3, ”Technical data” ((No--Go criteria).

2. Attention!

It is only allowed to re--fit piston rings that have been removed with the piston ring

pliers.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 14

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16J FITTING OF PISTON RINGS

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA” .

1. Attention!

-- When renewing the piston rings the cylinder liner has to be honed.

-- Fit the piston rings in the correct order (see spare parts manual).

-- Fit the piston rings with the code numbers on topside.

-- The scraper ring consists of an outer ring and an inner spring.

Place first the inner spring in the piston ring groove and then the outer ring. The

gap of the scraper ring has to be fitted opposite the partition of the inner spring.

2. Carefully clean all parts.

Never use sharp or hard materials for cleaning the aluminium skirt!

Tool C

3. Fitting the piston rings:

3. 1. Tension supporting plate B by means of lever A.

3. 2. Place the piston ring on supporting points B, C and D with the protrusions E

between the gap of the piston ring.

3. 3. Tension the piston ring pliers by moving the handle F inwards and place the

piston ring into the piston ring groove. Release the tension by loosening

handle F and lever A.

Remove the piston ring pliers.

3. 4. Repeat this procedure for the other piston rings.

4. Position the piston rings, so that the gaps are about 180

from each other and

above the gudgeon pin bore.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 15

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16K FITTING PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Clean all parts thoroughly.

Whilst cleaning the piston, do not use sharp or hard tools. Make sure that the four oil

passages situated under the oil scraper ring are clean. These are used to discharge oil

to the inside of the piston.

Tool A

Hoisting the piston with connecting rod into the engine:

Attach the hoisting ring A, to

the piston with the aid of two

fixing bolts. The eye bolt faces

must be level with the top of the

piston.

Hoist piston and connecting

rod above the cylinder liner.

Attention!

The connecting rods are

marked with the cylinder

number the numbering is

facing to the camshaft side.

Lubricate piston skirt and

piston rings sparingly with

clean engine oil.

Check that the gaps in the

piston rings are still in the same

position.

Position the clamping

ring, F.

With the lips pointed to the

gudgeon pin side. The lips

serve to hold the assembly in

place on the cylinder liner.

Fit the upper bearing shell into the connecting rod foot. The upper bearing shell

is the one with no oil groove.

Check that the bearing shell position lug is in its slot at the connecting rod foot

recess.

Place two holding plugs, item 8, diagonally opposite each other in the

connecting rod foot to prevent the bearing shell from falling out.

2. 7.

Hoist the piston and connecting rod assembly into the liner till the gudgeon pin.

Make sure the connecting rod cylinder number is facing the camshaft side.

2. 8.

Remove the protection from the crank pin and clean the crank pin.

2. 9.

Lubricate the crankpin sparingly with clean lube oil.

10.Turn the crankshaft to Top Dead Centre.

Ver. 01

16 -- 16

Manual

F 240

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

16K FITTING PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

Tool A

Fitting the connecting rod:

3. 1. Fit the support strip B, to the cylinder block using the bolts.

3. 2. Lower the piston and connecting rod until the hoisting ring comes to rest on the

piston ring strap clamp.

3. 3. Position the holder G, with lever E, in the connecting rod foot.

3. 4. Now move the weight of the connecting rod assembly onto the holder and lever.

3. 5. Slacken one of the hoisting ring fixing bolts slightly and lower the assembly it

rests on the crank pin journal.

3. 6. Check that the upper bearing shell beds down properly on the crank pin and that

the positioning lug of the bearing engages with the slot.

3. 7. Remove the holding down plugs from the connecting rod foot.

3. 8. Fit the connecting rod cap. For instructions see section 16D.

3. 9. Remove the support strip.

Fit the cylinder head. See section 18C.

Pre--lubricate the engine and check if the connecting rod and gudgeon pin bearing

is getting oil.

Fit the crankcase covers.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

16 -- 17

Manual

F 240

FUEL INJECTOR

17B REMOVAL

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ” BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Fuel Injector

The fuel injector consists of:

Nozzle

Sleeve nut

Wearing plate

Nozzle holder

Pressure rod

Joint washer (steel)

Pressure spring

Spring holder

Locking nut

Set screw with spring disc

Cap nut

Joint washer (copper)

7. Remove the clamp and disconnect the high pressure fuel line from the fuel pump,

and the vent line at the connection next to the fuel pump.

8. Withdraw the nozzle holder assembly by lifting it out perpendicularly, bringing the

high pressure fuel line and the vent line with it.

8. 1. Note:

If the nozzle holder cannot be removed easily because a carbon deposit

causes it to stick, than the use of the ’puller’, Tool A, is called for.

In this case, proceed as follows :

Remove the cap nut, spring holder, pressure spring and pressure rod.

8. 2. When removing the spring holder make sure not to slacken the locking nut

fitted on the spring holder, because this will cause derangement of the

injection pressure.

-- Fit the ’puller’.

-- Using a maximum torque of 500Nm (360 lbft), pull the nozzle holder out of

the cylinder head.

Ver. 01

17 -- 6

Manual

F 240

FUEL INJECTOR

17B REMOVAL

8. 3. Never try to lever the nozzle holder assembly loose with the aid of the high

pressure fuel line, as this may result in the nozzle holder bush rotating

slightly, so that it loses the correct tightening torque. This will increase the

risk of cooling water leakage into the combustion chamber.

It could also, and almost more likely so, damage the high pressure fuel line,

which is extremely dangerous, as the fuel inside is under enormous

pressure, when the engine is running.

To minimize the risk of leakage it must be standard procedure, immediately after

removal of the nozzle holder assembly, to check whether the nozzle holder sleeve still

has the required tightening torque by means of tool B.

It must be emphasised that the check must not be carried out by slackening the holder

sleeve first, but by tightening it at once to the correct torque.

Removal

If it proves impossible to withdraw the nozzle holder assembly with the help of the

procedure when

’puller’, the following solutions are available :

injector sticks

1. Fit a spare cylinder head, or

Draw off the cooling water

Remove the fuel pipe connection from the nozzle holder

Chip away the corner tips (see sketch) to enable to

remove the nozzle holder. Otherwise the holder is

blocked by the guide pin of the valves.

Remove the nozzle holder along with nozzle holder bush.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

17 -- 7

Manual

F 240

FUEL INJECTOR

17C CHECKING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ” BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”

Connecting

Connecting the nozzle to the test pump (Tool C):

1. 1. Clean the fuel injector externally with pure gasoil.

If the fuel injector is out of use only during a very short time, gasoil can be

used tor testing. However, if the fuel injector is out of use during a prolonged

period of time, it is recommended that an oxidation--resistant calibration fluid

is used.

Even slight oxidation can cause the nozzle needle to stick.

1. 2. Connect the fuel injector to the

test pump.

Check that the tank is full of

clean gas oil or calibration fluid.

1. 3. Close the valve of the

manometer and pump the fuel

injector through with a few

strong strokes.

In this way all important parts will

come into contact with the test oil.

Checking of the

Open the valve of the manometer a

opening pressure

quarter turn. Push the lever of the test

pump slowly downwards and slowly bring

the fuel to a pressure where the nozzle

opens.

Note the opening pressure of the nozzle.

For values of the opening pressure, see

chapter 3 Technical Data.

If the opening pressure is lower or higher

than the prescribed pressure, see section

17F.

Checking needle

Open the valve of the manometer. Thoroughly dry the underside of the nozzle tip.

seal

Slowly bring the nozzle to a pressure, which is 10% lower than the pressure mentioned

in chapter 3 Technical Data.

The nozzle needle is completely closed, when no drop is formed on the nozzle tip

within 10 seconds.

Make sure that during testing no oil leaks along the side of the fuel injector!

Checking fuel jet

Avoid putting your hands in the fuel jet!

Close the valve of the manometer.

Push the lever downwards once, with a short quick movement.

The fuel jets must be finely atomized, in equal form, under the same angle and equally

divided over the circumference!

The fuel jet can be checked by placing a piece of paper under the nozzle tip at a

distance of about 10 mm.

Ver. 01

17 -- 8

Manual

F 240

FUEL INJECTOR

17D DISASSEMBLY AND TESTING OF NOZZLE

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Disassembly

1. 1. Clean the nozzle holder externally using clean gasoil.

1. 2. Reliese the nozzle holder spring and remove it.

1. 3. Remove the nozzle tip.

1. 4. Clean the removed parts internally and externally using clean gasoil.

Nozzle inspection

When inspecting nozzles pay attention to :

wear of needle valve seat ;

needle lift ;

damaged needle tips ;

burning (discolouration) of the needle.

Sliding test

This test should be performed on both used and new nozzles. Immerse the cleaned

nozzle needle and nozzle tip in clean gasoil or calibration fluid. When testing used

nozzles place the needle in the tip. Move the needle up and down a couple of times. Hold

the nozzle tip with needle vertically and using the hand, pull the needle out of its guide

up to 1/3 of its total length. Next release the needle, which should then slide back into

its seat by its own weight.

Note :

If any faults are found, (points 2 and 3), the nozzle must be replaced.

Inspection of

When inspecting the nozzle holder pay attention to the following points :

nozzle holder

Damage to wearing plate caused by needle hammer. The wearing plate limits the

lift of the nozzle needle. When the plate surface becomes irregular as a result of

needle hammer, this will affect the lift of the needle. The plate can be used on both

sides. It must be renewed when both the top and the reverse side have suffered

damage from the needle.

Fracture of nozzle holder spring.

The nozzle holder spring may fracture and the coil ends may chip off through

vibration of maladjusted nozzles or the presence of water in the fuel.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

17 -- 10

Manual

F 240

FUEL INJECTOR

17G REFITTING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

If the copper ring in the nozzle holder sleeve is jammed, it can be removed with a boring

tool, tool E. Boring may be effected with the aid of stop nuts, adjusted to the correct

dimensions beforehand.

During the boring operation the tool must be lubricated with grease at regular intervals.

Each time the tool is withdrawn the cuttings will remain trapped in the grease.

Always remove these cuttings before applying the tool again.

If, during the boring operation, the copper ring is found to rotate, a light tap on the top

end will be sufficient to make the tool penetrate the material, after which the ring should

be bored out without difficulty.

Fitting of injector

1. Fit the high pressure fuel line in to the nozzle holder so that the high pressure fuel

into cylinder

line runs parallel to the nozzle holders cylindrical part.

head

2. Tighten the union nut of the high pressure fuel line to the torque specified in the

Technical Data.

3. Fit the nozzle holder with a new copper sealing ring and O--ring in top. Place the

nozzle holder in the bush. Make sure the cone of the high pressure fuel line

engages fully with the fuel pump connecting.

4. Tighten the other union nut to the same torque.

5. Tighten the nut on the nozzle holder clamp to the torque specified in Technical

Data.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

17 -- 13

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18A NECESSARY TOOLS

Tool B

Tools assembly/disassembly valve spring and/or valve.

Tool number : 9612 F 930.

Holding fixture, item 1. This is the fixture which bolts down over the injector clamp stud,

and is both used for the lifting of the cylinder head from the cylinder liner, and in order

to press down on the pressure pad.

Tool number : 9612F255

Pressure pad, item 2. This fits over the bridge piece guide pin and presses down on

the valve spring of any one valve.

Tool number : 9612F258.

Pressure bolt, item 3. This bolt screws into the threaded hole in the holding fixture,

and thereby presses down on the pressure pad.

Tool number : 9612F261

Ver. 01

18 -- 2

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18B REMOVAL

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Drain the cooling water by removing the plug located in the cylinder block behind the

H.T. cooling water pump. The cooling water should be preferably be stored for

re--use.

Remove the valve rocker covers and disconnect all pipes fitted to the cylinder head.

Bar the engine over to the position where the inlet and exhaust valves of the cylinder

involved are closed, T.D.C. of the firing stroke.

Removal of the cylinder head

4. 1. Remove the valve rockers, push rods, bridge pieces, and pyrometer, as well as

the nozzle holder clamp and the nozzle holder.

4. 2. After having removed the nozzle holder, always check to make sure the nozzle

holder bush is still tightened to the correct torque. When doing this, never first

undo the bush not even a little, as this will cause cooling water leakage into the

cylinder, just tighten it.

Tool A

Loosening the cylinder head:

5. 1. Loosen the cylinder head stud nuts in two

stages, observing the sequence A, B, C, D, E

and F in both stages:

--60^o

Loosen the bolts complete

Tool B

Remove the cylinder head and be careful not to

damage the sealing faces.

Proceed as follows :

6. 1. Place the holding fixture for valve spring

positioning and removal over the stud for the

nozzle holder clamp and secure it with the nut.

6. 2. Attach a hoisting belt to the holding fixture and

carefully lift the cylinder head off the cylinder block.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 4

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18C FITTING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

1. Clean the sealing faces of the cylinder head and cylinder liner very thoroughly. If

necessary grind faces using a grinding ring.

2. Make sure all parts are in perfect condition.

3. Fit new gas sealing ring and new rubber ring. Do not oil or grease the gas sealing ring.

4. Fit V--ring seals around the cylinder head studs. These will prevent dirt and/or water

from entering the stud holes. There are 6 V--ring seals per cylinder.

Position locating rings (4 per cylinder) around the cylinder head studs C--D--E--F to

centre the cylinder head.

5. Place cylinder head gently on cylinder liner.

6. Clean the nuts, washers and contact faces

thoroughly and lubricate them sparingly with

oil.

7. Tighten the nuts by hand. Never restore the

screw thread on the studs with a thread cutting

die, as this thread is rolled, and cutting will

destroy it.

8. Secure the nuts as instructed under the

tightening procedure in the Technical Data.

9. Connect all pipes to the cylinder head.

10. Add cooling water up to the required level and

make sure this water is given the proper treatment.

11. Fit bridge pieces, valve rockers, push rods, nozzle holder and nozzle holder clamp.

The valve rockers need to be tightened to a torque specified in the Technical Data.

12. Adjust valve clearance, see 18G.

Remark:

The cylinder head studs under the dust cap have plastic caps on the nuts to prevent

oil leakage along the studs.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 5

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18D VALVES

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

1. Removal

1. 1. Remove cylinder head -- see section 18B.

1. 2. Remove valve springs -- see section 18E.

1. 3. Remove valve.

Note :

Make sure the valve keepers, spring cup, valve and spring clip of each valve

are kept together. The spring clips for inlet-- and exhaust valves are

different.Holding fixture, item 1. This is the fixture which bolts down over the

injector clamp stud, and is both used for the lifting of the cylinder head from

the cylinder liner, and in order to press down on the pressure pad.

Tool number : 9612F255

2. Inspection

2. 1. Check the clearance between valve stem and valve guide.

(This must be less than 0.20 mm over at least 3/4 of the valve guide length).

2. 2. Pay attention to the No Go dimension limits.

2. 3. Polish the valve stem top at the valve locking split cone using ”grain 360”

abrasive linen, until it is smooth.

2. 4. Examine the valve stem top and valve disc for

(hairline) cracks by

Magnafluxing (radial magnetisation). If any cracks are found, the valve must

be scrapped.

2. 5. Demagnetise the valve.

2. 6. Check the valve seat. Machine valve and valve seat if necessary.

2. 7. Clean the valve and the valve seat.

3. Fitting

3. 1. Place valve in position.

3. 2. Slide spring clip for exhaust valves in the groove of the valve stem. For the

inlet valves below the groove of the valve stem.

3. 3. Fit the valve springs -- see section 18F.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 6

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18E VALVE SPRINGS

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Removal

When only the valve springs need to be inspected or renewed, removal of the

cylinder head is not necessary.

Bar the engine over so that the piston involved reaches T.D.C. of the firing

stroke, with the valves closed.

Remove rocker arm assembly.

Withdraw the bridge piece. Remove the valve stem spring clip (this is only

necessary for inlet valves because here the spring cup cannot be slipped over

the clip).

Tool B

Push down the valve springs:

Place the pressure pad (2) on the free guide pin so that the hole in the pad

is in line with the bore of the spring cup.

Remove the nozzle holder clamp, if it is still in position.

Place the holding fixture (1) with bolt (3) on the stud thus released, and using

the stud nut tighten these down to the cylinder head face.

Note:

If inlet valves are being removed, first slide the spring clip around the valve

stem downwards, because the valve, the spring, the cup and or the clip could

be damaged.

Using the pressure bolt force the valve springs down so that the valve

keepers are released and can be taken out.

Note :

The valve keepers, spring cup and valve should be kept together for each

valve to preserve the proper match.

Remove the tools and withdraw the valve springs for inspection and/or

renewal.

2. Inspecting the

Examine the springs for :

valve springs

Hairline cracks ;

Squareness ;

Length.

Ver. 01

18 -- 7

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18E VALVE SPRINGS

Fittting

Clean all parts thoroughly.

Refit parts in the reverse order after inspection and/or renewal of the valve

spring.

Note :

On inlet valves it is impossible to slip the spring cup over the spring clip. In

this case the valve spring must be positioned before the spring clip can be

slide around the stem and into its groove.

The best way of accomplishing this is as follows :

-- Before fitting the valve spring, slide the spring clip around the inlet valve

stem so that it is just below its groove.

-- Fit the valve spring, spring cup and valve keepers.

-- Using a screw driver to push the spring clip upwards into its groove

-- Make sure the spring clip is snug around the valve stem.

Position the cylinder head so that the valve can move freely.

Fit the valve keepers in place making sure that the space between the two

halves is evenly divided.

Place a piece of pounding copper (diam. 15 -- 18 mm) on the valve stem and

strike this a couple of times with a hammer, (approx. 0.7 kg), so that the valve

keepers can bed in.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 8

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18F ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE CLEARANCE

1. General

Proper adjustment of the valve clearance will prolong the life of the valves and the

valve seats.

A correct valve clearance gives the various components of the valve lift mechanism

sufficient space to expand with increasing material temperatures. Hence, the

clearance can only be checked and corrected when the engine components have the

same temperature. The clearances are the same for both inlet and exhaust valves.

feeler gauges

2. Adjustment

Before starting work, please consult:

procedure

-- chapter 2 -- BACKGROUND INFORMATION ;

-- chapter 3 -- TECHNICAL DATA.

2. 1. Remove the valve cover.

2. 2. Turn the piston in TDC in the firing stroke, there is no load on the valve

springs and the pushrods.

2. 3. Loosen locking nut (A) of the adjustable pivot in the valve lever and loosen

the adjustable pivot a few turns.

2. 4. If present, remove the oil film between the pivots by tapping a few times with

a plastic hammer on the ends of the valve levers.

2. 5. Place two feeler gauges of equal thickness, as mentioned in chapter 3 --

technical data -- between the pivots under the bridge piece and the upper

surface of the valve stems.

Ver. 01

18 -- 9

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18F ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE CLEARANCE

6. Loosen locking nut (B) of the adjustable pivot in the bridge piece and block the

bridge piece using a spanner.

This to prevent the bridge piece guide from being damaged.

7. While exerting a

slight pressure on

the bridge piece turn

the adjustable pivot

in the bridge piece

until

the

slide

resistance of

both

feeler

gauges is

equal.

8. Tighten locking nut

(B) by hand without

2 feeler gauges of same size

turning

the

adjustable pivot.

9. Tighten locking nut

(B)

(main data)

further

without

turning

the

adjustable

pivot.

Block the bridge

piece by means of a

spanner.

10.Again check the slide

resistance of the

feeling

gauges,

which has to be

equal.

11. Turn down the

adjustable pivot of

the valve lever until

there is no more

clearance.

12.Tighten locking nut (A) without turning the adjustable pivot.

13.Again check, whether the slide resistance of both feeler gauges is the same.

14.Remove the feeler gauges and repeat the procedure for the other pair of valves.

15.Fit the valve cover.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 10

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18G CYLINDER HEAD SAFETY VALVE

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Inspection

Remove the cylinder head safety valve from the

connecting piece.

Remove the connecting piece after screwing the

cap or, if available, the indicator cock from the

reducing nipple.

Withdraw the reducing nipple from the cylinder

head.

Check that the blow--off passage in the cylinder

head and the passages in the reducing nipple

and connecting piece are open.

Pressure--test the safety valve.

Note :

The pressure test can be performed by

connecting the safety valve to the nozzle test

pump with the aid of an adaptor. If the safety

valve leaks, the ball seat must be rectified, and

the balls renewed. It may also be necessary to

replace the disc springs.

Fit the safety valve in the connecting piece and

the reducing nipple in the cylinder head using

new sealing rings.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 11

Manual

F 240

CYLINDER HEAD

18H STARTING AIR VALVE

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

Before removing the starting air valve, the cylinder

head has to be removed., see chapter 18B.

1. Removal

1. 1. Remove plunger housing (A) with plunger

(B).

1. 2. Remove plug (C) by heating (loctite joint)

and by means of a screwdriver (threaded

joint).

1. 3. Force plunger (D) down in order remove the

valve keepers (E).

1. 4. Remove spring (F) and starting valve (G).

1. 5. Remove connecting piece (H) from cylinder

head.

2. Fitting

2. 1. Clean and inspect all parts thoroughly.

Lubricate the plungers with Molycote G.N.

2. 2. Fit connecting piece (H) with a new O--rings.

2. 3. Fit starting valve (G), spring (F) and plunger

(D) with a new O--ring.

2. 4. Fit the valve keepers (E).

2. 5. Fit plug (C) with a screwdriver and secure it

with Loctite.

2. 6. Fit plunger housing (A) with plunger (B) with

new O--rings.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

18 -- 12

Manual

F 240

CAMSHAFT

19A CHECKING VALVE TIMING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA”.

The inlet and exhaust valve timing can to be checked for instance after positioning the

camshaft. Valve diagram for the camshafts:

-- 2103 F 981A ;

”

982A ;

”

983A ;

”

984A ;

”

985A ;

”

986A.

3. Turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation to neutralise the backlash, to Top

Dead Centre of the compression stroke of the corresponding cylinder. Make sure

that the valves are closed, so the push rods can be turned freely.

4. Set the valve clearance of the inlet and exhaust valves to 0 mm.

Bottom Dead Centre

Top Dead Centre

Bottom Dead Centre

Inlet cam

Exhaust cam

Checking points

2104 F 212

51^o

15^o

55^o19o

55^o

51^o

4.03 mm lifting

CRANK ANGLE

Exhaust valve

5. Measuring the cam lifting:

5. 1. Place the dial gauge on the exhaust rocker arm exactly above the pushrod.

5. 2. Set the dial gauge to 0 mm.

5. 3. Turn the engine in the direction of rotation until the dial gauge indicates

4.03 mm.

5. 4. Take a reading of the number of crank degrees. The value found has to be 15^o

before Bottom dead centre, permitted tolerance is 1^o.

Ver. 01

19 -- 1

Manual

F 240

CAMSHAFT

19A CHECKING VALVE TIMING

Inlet valve

6. Measuring the cam lifting:

6. 1. Place the dial gauge on the inlet rocker arm exactly above the pushrod.

6. 2. Set the dial gauge to 0 mm.

6. 3. Turn the engine in the direction of rotation until the dial gauge indicates 4.03

mm.

6. 4. Take a reading of the number of crank degrees. The value found has to be 19^o

before Top Dead Centre, permitted tolerance is 1^o).

7. If the setting is not correct please consult the Service Department of Stork

Wärtselä Diesel. If the setting of the cam is correct, adjust the valve clearance. The

setting values are specified in Technical Data.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

19 -- 2

Manual

F 240

GOVERNOR

20A GOVERNOR DRIVE INSPECTION

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA” ;

-- SUB-- SUPPLIERS MANUALS.

1. Remove the end cover (A) of the governor drive and the gasket and inspect cover

(B) and the gasket.

2. Visually check the gear wheels of the governor drive on such aspects as meshing

pattern, pitting and any other damage, and check the backlash.

Attention!

In case of non--conformities, have necessary parts replaced.

3. Fit the end cover (A) of the governor drive, using a new gasket.

4. Fit the inspection cover (B) using a new gasket.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

20 -- 1

Manual

F 240

GOVERNOR

20B GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA” ;

-- SUB-- SUPPLIERS MANUALS.

Compensation

Indicated by a needle outside the governor (min. -- 50% -- max.). For the correct value,

consult the test bed report.

Note :

When tightening the locking nut, hold the compensation needle in position.

Compensation

The valve is located in the governor base, behind a plug. It includes two slots; a

needle valve

shallow slot for a screw driver, and a deep slot allowing the valve to be locked in

position. For the correct position consult the test bed report.

Note :

Normally the needle valve is¹/₂ to³/₄ turn open.

Always adjust the needle valve with a cross-head screwdriver.

Adjustment of the

Adjusting by full operational temperature.

governor after

overhaul

3. 1. Set the compensating needle to the minimum position. Open the needle

valve fully and then close it slowly until the governor stop hunting.

If the governor keeps hunting then :

3. 2. Move the compensating needle slightly towards the maximum position.

Open the needle valve fully and close it slowly until the governor stops

hunting.

3. 3. If the hunting continues, then repeat the procedure of su--section 2 and

check the needle valve position.

Speed droop

The speed droop is the difference between the engine speed at full load and the engine

speed at zero load.

For Example:

Engine speed at full load 900 rpm

Engine speed at zero load 936 rpm.

The difference is 36 rpm, which amounts to a speed droop of 4%, which is normal.

The speed droop can be adjusted :

On governors type UG--8L (Lever control) internally,

On governors type UG--8 (Dial control) externally.

For detailed information see Sub--suppliers manuals.

--o--o--o--o--o--

Ver. 01

20 -- 2

Manual

F 240

GOVERNOR

20C INTERNAL CLEANING

Before starting work, please consult:

-- chapter 2, ”BACKGROUND INFORMATION” ;

-- chapter 3, ”TECHNICAL DATA” ;

-- SUB--SUPPLIERS MANUALS.

When the oil in the governor must be changed, proceed as follows :

1. Remove the drain plug from the governor base and drain the lubrication oil, when

the engine is hot.

2. Fill up the governor with a mixture of 50% gas oil and 50% lubrication oil.

3. Run the engine at a speed of approx. 500 rpm.

Note :

When the engine is being used to drive a generator, use the lowest acceptable rpm.

To this end, consult the generator manufacturer and / or the engine acceptance record.

4. Open the needle valve in the governor base a couple of turns. This will cause the

governor to hunt (i.e. work erratically).

5. Stop the engine after approximately 10 minutes.

6. Drain the mixture.

7. Fill up the governor with the required lubrication oil as specified by the governor

supplier.

8. Run the engine once more at approximately 500 rpm for 10 minutes.

9. Drain the lubrication oil.

10. Fill up the governor with the required lubrication oil.

11. The oil level must remain visible in the oil level glass.

12. Adjust the needle valve with a running engine at full operational temperatures.

Diesel WARTSILA F 240. Manual (2004) - page 2