Content .. 7 8 9 10 ..

Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual - part 9

Braking system 9•7

6.6 Handbrake cable attachment to

6.13 Self-adjusting strut components

6.16 Handbrake lever secured by pin

operating lever (arrowed)

right-hand side

6 Disconnect the handbrake cable from the

and the other ‘handed’ components are colour-

pass over the new linings. Make sure that the

operating lever (see illustration). If there is

coded: black for the left-hand side, and silver

handbrake lever is correctly positioned (pin on

insufficient slack at the cable, disconnect it at

for the right (see illustration).

the edge of the shoe web, not on top of it).

the equaliser yoke

14 Dismantle and clean the adjusting strut.

22 Refit and secure the brake drum as

7 The return springs may be unhooked now

Apply a smear of silicone-based lubricant to

described in Section 9.

and the shoes removed separately, or the

the adjuster threads. If new brake linings are

23 Repeat the operations on the other rear

assembly of shoes, strut and springs may be

being fitted, the thermoclip (in the middle of

brake, then adjust the brakes by operating the

removed together. The second course is

the strut) must be renewed too.

footbrake at least 15 times. A clicking noise

particularly easy if the hub is removed (see

15 Examine the shoe return springs. If they

will be heard at the drums as the automatic

adjusters operate; when the clicking stops,

Chapter 10), as has been done for some of the

are distorted or if they have seen much

adjustment is complete.

photographs. Be careful not to damage the

service, renewal is advisable. Weak springs

24 Check the handbrake adjustment and

wheel cylinder rubber boots.

may cause the brakes to bind.

correct it if necessary (see Chapter 1).

8 If the shoes are to be removed for some

16 If a new handbrake lever was not supplied

25 When new linings have been fitted, avoid

time, secure the wheel cylinder pistons with a

with the new shoes, transfer the old lever. It

harsh braking (if possible) for the first hundred

stout rubber band or a spring clip. In any

may be secured with a pin and circlip (see

miles or so to allow the linings to bed in.

event, do not press the brake pedal while the

illustration), or by a rivet which will have to be

drum is removed.

drilled out.

9 Clean the brake backplate, again being

17 Assemble the new shoes, springs and

7 Front brake disc - inspection,

careful not to inhale the dust or to disperse it

adjuster components. Expand the adjuster

removal and refitting

into the air

strut to ease fitting (see illustrations).

10 Apply a smear of copper-based anti-seize

18 Offer the shoes to the brake backplate. Be

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

compound to the shoe rubbing areas on the

careful not to damage the wheel cylinder

the beginning of Section 4 concerning the

backplate.

boots or to displace the pistons. Remember

dangers of asbestos dust.

11 Investigate and rectify any source of

to remove the rubber band or spring clip from

contamination of the linings (wheel cylinder or

the wheel cylinder, if one was used.

Inspection

hub bearing oil seal leaking).

19 When the shoes are in position, insert the

Note: If either disc requires renewal, both

12 Unusually, linings are still available

steady pins and secure them with the springs

should be renewed at the same time to ensure

separately for these brake shoes. Renewal of

and washers. Reconnect the handbrake

even and consistent braking.

the shoes complete with linings is to be

cable, and refit and adjust the hub if it was

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, jack up the

preferred, however, unless the reader has the

removed.

front of the car and support it on axle stands

necessary skills and equipment to fit new

20 If fitting the shoes and springs together is

(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove

linings to the old shoes.

found too difficult, it is possible to fit the

the appropriate front roadwheel, marking its

13 Dismantle the shoes, strut and springs.

shoes and secure them with the steady pins,

correct fitted position on the hub.

Note how the springs are fitted, and which way

then to introduce the adjuster strut and fit the

2 Slowly rotate the brake disc so that the full

round the strut goes. Be careful not to

springs and adjuster.

area of both sides can be checked; remove

interchange left-hand and right-hand adjuster

21 Back off the adjuster pinion to reduce the

the brake pads if better access is required to

components; the threaded rod is marked L or R,

length of the strut until the brake drum will

the inner surface. Light scoring is normal in

6.17a Self-adjusting strut correctly fitted

6.17b Fitting the upper return spring to the

6.17c Adjuster lever spring (arrowed) fitted

adjuster lever bracket

9•8 Braking system

made on removal, then lower the vehicle

to the ground and tighten the roadwheel

bolts to the specified torque. On

completion, repeatedly depress the brake

pedal until normal (non-assisted) pedal

pressure returns.

8 Rear brake disc - inspection,

removal and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

the beginning of Section 5 concerning the

8.3 Levering off the grease cap

dangers of asbestos dust.

8.5 Removing the rear disc

Inspection

the area swept by the brake pads, but if heavy

1 Refer to Section 7.

Inspection

scoring is found the disc must be renewed.

Note: If either drum requires renewal, both

3 It is normal to find a lip of rust and brake

Removal

should be renewed at the same time to ensure

dust around the disc’s perimeter; this can be

2 Slacken and remove the two bolts securing

even and consistent braking.

scraped off if required. If, however, a lip has

the brake caliper in position. Slide off the

4 Working carefully, remove all traces of

formed due to excessive wear of the brake

caliper and position it clear of the brake disc,

brake dust from the drum, but avoid inhaling

pad swept area then the disc’s thickness

taking care not to strain the brake pipe.

the dust as it is injurious to health.

must be measured using a micrometer. Take

3 Release the handbrake then remove the

5 Scrub clean the outside of the drum and

measurements at several places around the

hub grease cap by levering or tapping it off

check it for obvious signs of wear or damage

disc at the inside and outside of the pad

(see illustration).

such as cracks around the roadwheel bolt

swept area; if the disc has worn at any point

4 Remove the split pin from the hub nut.

holes; renew the drum if necessary.

to the specified minimum thickness or less,

Remove the nut.

6 Examine carefully the inside of the drum.

the disc must be renewed.

5 Pull the disc/hub unit off the stub axle,

Light scoring of the friction surface is normal,

4 If the disc is thought to be warped it can be

catching the washer and the bearing outer

but if heavy scoring is found the drum must be

checked for run-out either using a dial gauge

race (see illustration). If the handbrake shoes

renewed. It is usual to find a lip on the drum’s

mounted on any convenient fixed point, while

seem to be preventing removal, disconnect

inboard edge which consists of a mixture of

the disc is slowly rotated, or by using feeler

the handbrake cable from the lever on the

rust and brake dust; this should be scraped

blades to measure

(at several points all

brake backplate.

away to leave a smooth surface which can be

around the disc) the clearance between the

Refitting

polished with fine (120 to 150 grade) emery

disc and a fixed point such as the caliper

paper. If, however, the lip is due to the friction

mounting bracket. To ensure that the disc is

6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

squarely seated on the hub, fit two wheel

procedure, noting the following points:

bolts complete with spacers approximately 10

a) If a new disc has been fitted, use a

mm thick and tighten them securely. If the

suitable solvent to wipe any preservative

measurements obtained are at the specified

coating from the disc before refitting the

maximum or beyond, the disc is excessively

caliper.

warped and must be renewed; however it is

b) On refitting, adjust the hub bearings as

worth checking first that the hub bearing is in

described in Chapter 10.

good condition (Chapters 1 and/or 10).

c) Use a new split pin, and if necessary a

5 Check the disc for cracks, especially

new grease cap.

around the wheel bolt holes, and any other

d) Adjust the handbrake (see Chapter 1).

wear or damage and renew if necessary.

Removal

9 Rear brake drum - removal,

6 Remove the brake pads (Section 4).

inspection and refitting

7 Extract the small retaining screw and then

9.3a Removing a brake drum securing

tilt the disc and withdraw it from the hub.

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

screw

the beginning of Section 6 concerning the

Refitting

dangers of asbestos dust.

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

Removal

procedure, noting the following points.

a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the

disc and hub are clean and flat.

rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

b) If a new disc has been fitted, use a

stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

suitable solvent to wipe any preservative

2 Remove the appropriate rear wheel,

coating from the disc before refitting the

marking its correct fitted position on the drum.

caliper.

3 Remove the brake drum securing screw

c) On vehicles which are equipped with light

then release the handbrake and pull off the

alloy roadwheels, a facing sleeve is

drum. If it is tight, collapse the brake shoes by

mounted on the collar of the brake disc.

removing the plug in the brake backplate and

d) Refit the brake pads as described in

pushing the handbrake operating lever

Section 4.

outwards with a screwdriver

(see

9.3b Pushing back the handbrake lever

e) Refit the roadwheel, aligning the marks

illustrations).

Braking system 9•9

surface being recessed by excessive wear,

an assistant listen to the rear drums to check

Overhaul

then the drum must be renewed.

that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly;

Early ATE type caliper

7 If the drum is thought to be excessively

if this is so a clicking sound will be emitted by

worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be

the strut as the pedal is depressed.

7 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all

measured at several points using an internal

13 With the lining to drum clearance set

traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the

micrometer. Take measurements in pairs, the

check and, if necessary, adjust the handbrake

dust as it is injurious to health.

second at right angles to the first, and

as described in Chapter 1.

8 Separate the caliper body from its bracket

compare the two to check for signs of ovality.

14 Refit the roadwheel, aligning the marks

by sliding them apart. Recover the guide

springs.

Provided that it does not enlarge the drum to

made on removal, then lower the vehicle to

9 Using a screwdriver, prise off the retaining

beyond the specified maximum diameter, it

the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the

ring from the dust excluder then remove the

may be possible to have the drum refinished

specified torque setting.

excluder from the caliper.

by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible,

10 Withdraw the partially ejected piston from

the drums on both sides must be renewed.

10 Front brake caliper - removal,

the caliper body and remove the dust

Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, both

overhaul and refitting

excluder. The piston can be withdrawn by

drums must be refinished to maintain a

hand, or if necessary pushed out by applying

consistent internal diameter on both sides.

compressed air to the brake hose union hole.

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

Only low pressure should be required such as

Refitting

the beginning of Section 2 concerning the

is generated by a foot pump.

8 If a new brake drum is to be installed, use a

dangers of hydraulic fluid and to the warning

11 Once the piston has been removed, pick

suitable solvent to remove any preservative

at the beginning of Section 4 concerning the

out the seal from its groove in the cylinder,

coating that may have been applied to its

dangers of asbestos dust.

using a plastic or wooden instrument.

interior.

12 Thoroughly clean all components using

Removal

9 Ensure that the drum and hub flange mating

only methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol or

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

surfaces are clean and dry and remove all

clean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.

traces of corrosion.

of the vehicle and support it on axle stands

Never use mineral-based solvents such as

10 Make sure that the handbrake lever stop

(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove

petrol or paraffin which will attack the hydraulic

the appropriate roadwheel, marking its correct

system’s rubber components. Dry the

peg is correctly repositioned against the edge

fitted position on the wheel hub.

components immediately using compressed

of the brake shoe web then locate the drum

2 Minimise fluid loss either by removing the

air or a clean, lint-free cloth. Use compressed

on the hub. Note that it may be necessary to

master cylinder reservoir cap and then

air to blow clear the fluid passages.

shorten the adjuster strut length by rotating

tightening it down onto a piece of polythene

13 Check all components and renew any that

the strut wheel to allow the drum to pass over

to obtain an airtight seal, or by using a brake

are worn or damaged. Check particularly the

the brake shoes.

hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool to

cylinder bore and piston; these should be

11 Refit the drum retaining screw and tighten

clamp the flexible hose.

renewed (note that this means the renewal of

it securely.

the complete body assembly) if they are

3 Clean the area around the caliper brake

12 Adjust the lining to drum clearance by

scratched, worn or corroded in any way.

hose union. Slacken and remove the union

repeatedly applying the footbrake at least

14 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtain

bolt and recover the sealing washer from

fifteen times. Whilst applying the brake have

the necessary components from your Vauxhalll

either side of the hose union; discard the

dealer. Renew the caliper seals as a matter of

washers new ones must be used on refitting.

course; these should never be re-used.

Plug the hose end and caliper hole to

15 On reassembly, ensure that all

minimise fluid loss and prevent the ingress of

components are absolutely clean and dry.

dirt into the hydraulic system.

16 Soak the piston and the new seal in clean

4 Remove the brake pads as described in

hydraulic fluid.

paragraphs Section 4.

17 Smear clean fluid on the cylinder bore

5 On models with early ATE type calipers,

surface.

slacken and remove the two caliper mounting

18 Fit the new seal using only the fingers to

bolts and remove the caliper assembly from

manipulate it into the cylinder bore groove.

the vehicle.

19 Fit the new dust seal to the piston and

6 On models with GMF type calipers, prise off

refit it to the cylinder bore using a twisting

the mounting bolt caps to gain access to the

motion, and ensure that the piston enters

bolts. Slacken and remove the bolts and

squarely into the bore. Push the piston into

10.6a On the GMF caliper, remove the

remove the caliper from the vehicle

(see

the caliper bore making sure that the piston

caliper bolt caps . . .

step is positioned as shown (see illustration).

illustrations).

10.6b . . . then unscrew the caliper

10.6c . . . and remove the caliper

10.19 Caliper piston recess setting

bolts . . .

diagram - early type ATE caliper

9•10 Braking system

38 Fit the new sealing rings to the sliding

sleeve recesses and apply the grease

11 Rear brake caliper - removal,

supplied in the repair kit to the sleeves. Install

overhaul and refitting

the sleeves making sure they are fitted the

correct way around.

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

39 Fit the inner dust caps, making sure they

the beginning of Section 2 concerning the

are correctly engaged with the sliding sleeves.

dangers of hydraulic fluid and to the warning

Slide the sleeves into position and press the

at the beginning of Section 5 concerning the

dust caps into position on the caliper body

dangers of asbestos dust.

using a suitable tubular drift.

Removal

Later ATE type caliper

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the rear

40 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away

of the vehicle and support it on axle stands

all traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhalling

10.22 Fitting caliper bracket guide springs

(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove

the dust as it is injurious to health.

- early type ATE caliper

the appropriate roadwheel, marking its correct

41 Press the sliding bolt sleeves out of their

fitted position on the wheel hub.

20 When the piston has been partially

bore in the caliper body.

2 Minimise fluid loss either by removing the

depressed, engage the dust excluder with the

42 Carry out the operations described in

master cylinder reservoir cap and then

rim of the cylinder and fit the retaining clip.

paragraphs 10 to 19, positioning the piston as

tightening it down onto a piece of polythene

21 Press the piston fully into its cylinder bore.

shown in illustration 4.23.

to obtain an airtight seal, or by using a brake

22 Secure the caliper bracket in a vice and

43 Ensure that the dust excluder is correctly

hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool to

install the guide springs (see illustration).

located in the caliper body then coat the new

clamp the flexible hose at the nearest

23 Slide the caliper body into the bracket

slide bolt sleeves with washing-up liquid and

convenient point to the rear brake.

splines until the body and bracket are flush.

press them into their bores by hand.

3 Clean the area around the caliper brake

GMF type caliper

Refitting

pipe union. Unscrew the union nut and

24 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away

disconnect the pipe from the caliper. Plug the

44 On GMF and early ATE type calipers, prior

all traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling

pipe end and caliper hole to minimise fluid

to refitting, remove all traces of locking

the dust as it is injurious to health.

compound from the caliper mounting bolt

loss and prevent the ingress of dirt into the

25 Prise the sliding sleeve inner dust caps

threads and the hub carrier holes. Apply a

hydraulic system.

from the caliper housing.

drop of fresh locking compound to the bolt

4 Remove the brake pads as described in

26 Push the caliper sliding sleeves inwards

threads. Refit the caliper and insert the

paragraphs Section 5.

so that the dust caps can be disengaged from

mounting bolts, tightening them to the

5 Slacken and remove the two caliper

the sleeve grooves and removed.

specified torque setting.

mounting bolts and remove the caliper

27 Prise off the piston dust excluder.

45 On all calipers, refit the brake pads as

assembly from the vehicle (see illustration).

28 Remove the piston dust excluder from the

described in Section 4 but do not depress the

Overhaul

caliper.

brake pedal yet.

29 Carry out the operations described earlier

46 Position a new sealing washer on each

Note: No attempt must be made to separate

in paragraphs 10 to 12.

side of the hose union and connect the brake

the caliper halves. If overhaul cannot be

30 Press the sliding sleeves out from the

hose to the caliper. Ensure that the hose is

accomplished with the caliper assembled, it

caliper body, noting which way around they are

correctly positioned against the caliper body

must be renewed.

fitted, and recover their sealing rings. Inspect

lug then install the union bolt and tighten it to

6 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all

the sleeves and caliper body for signs of wear

the specified torque setting.

traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the

or damage. Both should be undamaged and a

47 Remove the brake hose clamp or

dust as it is injurious to health.

reasonably tight, sliding fit in each other.

polythene, where fitted, and bleed the

7 Prise off the piston dust excluders.

31 Check all components and renew any that

hydraulic system as described in Section 2.

8 Clamp one of the pistons in its bore using a

are worn or damaged. Check particularly the

Note that providing the precautions described

G-clamp and a thin piece of wood then

cylinder bore and piston; these should be

were taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it

extract the opposite piston and associated

renewed (note that this means the renewal of

should only be necessary to bleed the

components as described in paragraphs 9 to

the complete body assembly) if they are

relevant front brake.

20 of Section 10, position the piston step as

scratched, worn or corroded in any way.

48 Refit the roadwheel, aligning the marks

shown (see illustration).

32 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtain

made on removal, then lower the vehicle to

the necessary components from your Vauxhalll

the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to

dealer. Renew the caliper seals as a matter of

the specified torque.

course; these should never be re-used.

33 On reassembly, ensure that all

components are absolutely clean and dry.

34 Soak the piston and the new seal in clean

hydraulic fluid. Smear clean fluid on the

cylinder bore surface.

35 Fit the new seal using only the fingers to

manipulate it into the cylinder bore groove.

36 Fit the new dust seal to the piston and

refit it to the cylinder bore using a twisting

motion, and ensure that the piston enters

squarely into the bore.

37 When the piston has been partially

11.8 Correct position of rear caliper piston

depressed, engage the dust excluder with the

step, showing the inboard piston on the

rim of the cylinder then depress the piston

11.5 Removing the rear caliper

right-hand caliper. Opposite piston is the

fully into its cylinder bore.

mirror image

Braking system 9•11

9 Push the piston into its bore and repeat the

8 Inspect the surfaces of the piston and the

operation on the opposite piston.

cylinder bore for rust, scoring or metal-to-

metal rubbed areas. If these are evident,

Refitting

renew the wheel cylinder complete.

10 Prior to refitting, remove all traces of

9 If these components are in good order,

locking compound from the caliper mounting

discard the seals and dust excluders and

bolt threads and the hub carrier holes. Apply a

obtain a repair kit which will contain all the

drop of fresh locking compound to the bolt

renewable items.

threads. Refit the caliper and insert the

10 Fit the piston seals (using the fingers only

mounting bolts, tightening them to the

to manipulate them into position) so that the

specified torque setting (see illustration).

spring is between them. Dip the pistons in

11 Reconnect the brake pipe to the caliper

clean hydraulic fluid and insert them into the

and tighten its union nut to the specified

cylinder.

torque setting.

11.10 Tighten the rear caliper mounting

11 Fit the dust excluders.

12 Refit the brake pads as described in

bolts to the specified torque setting

Refitting

Section 5.

3 Minimise fluid loss by either removing the

13 Remove the brake hose clamp or

12 Ensure that the backplate and wheel

master cylinder reservoir cap and then

polythene, where fitted, and bleed the

cylinder mating surfaces are clean then

tightening it down onto a piece of polythene

hydraulic system as described in Section 2.

spread the brake shoes and manoeuvre the

to obtain an airtight seal, or by using a brake

Note that providing the precautions described

wheel cylinder into position.

hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool to

were taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it

13 Engage the brake pipe and screw in the

clamp the flexible hose at the nearest

should only be necessary to bleed the

union nut two or three turns to ensure that the

convenient point to the wheel cylinder.

relevant rear brake.

thread has started.

4 Wipe away all traces of dirt around the

14 Refit the roadwheel, aligning the marks

14 Insert the two wheel cylinder retaining

brake pipe union at the rear of the wheel

made on removal, then lower the vehicle to

bolts and tighten them to the specified torque

cylinder and unscrew the union nut. Carefully

the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to

setting. Now tighten the brake pipe union nut

ease the pipe out of the wheel cylinder and

the specified torque.

to the specified torque.

plug or tape over its end to prevent dirt entry.

15 Remove the clamp from the flexible brake

Wipe off any spilt fluid immediately.

hose or the polythene from the master

12 Rear wheel cylinder -

5 Unscrew the two wheel cylinder retaining

bolts from the rear of the backplate and

cylinder reservoir (as applicable).

removal, overhaul and refitting

16 Ensure that the brake shoes are correctly

remove the cylinder taking great care not to

allow surplus hydraulic fluid to contaminate

located in the cylinder pistons then carefully

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

refit the brake shoe upper return spring, using

the brake shoe linings.

the beginning of Section 2 concerning the

a screwdriver to stretch the spring into

dangers of hydraulic fluid and to the warning

Overhaul

position.

at the beginning of Section 6 concerning the

6 Brush the dirt and dust from the wheel

17 Refit the brake drum as described in

dangers of asbestos dust.

cylinder, taking care not to inhale it, and pull

Section 9.

Removal

off the rubber dust excluders from the cylinder

18 Bleed the brake hydraulic system as

body (see illustration).

described in Section 2. Providing suitable

1 Remove the brake drum (Section 9).

7 The pistons will normally be ejected by

precautions were taken to minimise loss of

2 Using pliers, carefully unhook the upper

fluid, it should only be necessary to bleed the

brake shoe return spring and remove it from

pressure of the coil spring but if they are not,

relevant rear brake.

both brake shoes. Pull the upper ends of the

tap the end of the cylinder on a piece of

shoes away from the wheel cylinder to

hardwood or apply low air pressure from a

disengage them from the pistons.

tyre foot pump at the pipeline connection.

13 Master cylinder - removal and

refitting

12.6 Exploded view of a rear wheel cylinder

Note: Before starting work, refer to the

warning at the beginning of Section

concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal

1 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap

1 Dust cap

and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the

2 Bleed screw

reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by

3 Cylinder body

mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an

4 Dust excluder

old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any

5 Piston

convenient bleed screw in the system and

6 Seal

gently pump the brake pedal to expel the fluid

7 Spring

through a plastic tube connected to the screw

(see Section 2).

2 Release the cable retainer from around the

master cylinder body (where applicable).

3 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe

unions on the side of the master cylinder and

place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions

to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the

correct fitted positions of the unions then

9•12 Braking system

17 Insert the assembly tube into the cylinder

bore as far as the collar on the short sleeve.

Use a blunt rod to push the secondary piston

into the bore until it contacts the end of the

cylinder. Nip up the stop screw, withdraw the

rod and sleeve and tighten the stop screw

fully.

18 Reposition the master cylinder in the vice

with the bore opening facing upwards.

19 Smear the primary piston skirt and seal

grooves with the special grease provided in

the repair kit. Fit the stop washer to the

piston.

13.3 Slackening the brake pipe union from

13.5 Removing the master cylinder

20 Adjust the assembly tube so that the end

the pressure regulating valve

of the long part is flush with the inner shoulder

of the short part.

unscrew the union nuts and carefully

13 The makers do not supply a seal kit alone,

21 Fit the front seal to the primary piston with

withdraw the pipes (see illustration). Plug or

but provide a repair kit consisting of a

the open end of the seal facing the front of the

tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder

complete secondary piston and the other

master cylinder. Place the assembly tube over

orifices to minimise the loss of brake fluid and

necessary seals springs, washers etc in a

to prevent the entry of dirt into the system.

special assembly tube. Should a proprietary

the cylinder to compress the seal, insert the

seal kit be available, fit new seals using the

piston and tube part way into the bore and

Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold

water.

fingers only, and make sure that the new seals

withdraw the tube.

are fitted the same way round as the old ones.

22 Place the intermediate ring on the primary

4 Where necessary, unscrew the pressure

The remainder of this Section describes the

piston, then fit the other seal using the

regulating valve(s) from the master cylinder.

fitting of the maker’s repair kit.

assembly tube in a similar manner.

5 Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake

14 Lubricate the cylinder bore with brake

23 Place the end washer on the primary

vacuum servo unit (booster) (see illustration).

fluid or brake rubber grease.

piston, then depress the piston slightly and fit

Overhaul

15 Clamp the cylinder in a soft-jawed vice

the circlip. Make sure that the circlip is

with the bore more or less horizontal. Screw in

properly seated and that the piston is free to

Note: On models equipped with ABS, the

master cylinder is a sealed unit and cannot be

the stop screw a little way, but not so far that

move.

it protrudes into the bore.

overhauled. If the cylinder is faulty it must be

24 Fit new sealing rings and press the fluid

renewed.

16 Remove the large plug from the assembly

reservoir into position.

tube. Remove all the components from the

25 Prime the cylinder by pouring clean brake

ATE type cylinder

short part of the tube and push the short part

fluid into the reservoir and working the pistons

6 With the master cylinder removed, clean

into the long part until they are flush.

with a rod until fluid is ejected from all orifices.

away all external dirt.

GMF type cylinder

7 Prise the fluid reservoir from the cylinder

body (see illustration).

26 With the master cylinder removed, clean

8 Depress the primary (rear) piston slightly

off all external dirt (see illustration).

and remove its retaining circlip.

27 Remove the fluid reservoir by carefully

9 Withdraw the primary piston. Make sure

pulling it away from the master cylinder, at the

that the stop washers do not catch in the

same time releasing the circlips with a

circlip groove.

screwdriver.

10 Depress the secondary (front) piston with

28 Clamp the cylinder in a soft-jawed vice,

a suitable rod and remove the stop screw

rear end uppermost, and prise out the

from the cylinder body.

pushrod seal.

11 Shake or tap out the secondary piston.

29 Use a blunt rod to depress the primary

12 Clean all the parts in brake fluid or

(rear) piston by 10 mm or so until it can be

methylated spirit. Examine the pistons and the

retained in the depressed position by inserting

cylinder bore for scoring, rust, or evidence of

a smooth rod (eg a knitting needle) onto the

metal-to-metal contact; if found, renew the

primary inlet hole.

cylinder complete. Strip the seals from the

30 Carefully extract the circlip from the end

primary piston if it is to be re-used noting

of the cylinder by prising it out with a

which way round they are fitted.

screwdriver.

31 Knock, shake or blow the pistons out of

the cylinder.

32 Clean all parts with brake fluid or

methylated spirit. Examine the pistons and the

13.7 Exploded view of ATE master cylinder

cylinder bore for scoring, rust or evidence of

3 Reservoir cap/low level switch

metal-to-metal contact; if found, renew the

4 Float guide sleeve

cylinder complete.

5 Reservoir

33 The makers do not supply a kit of seals

6 Cylinder body

alone, but provide a repair kit consisting of

7 O-ring

both pistons in a special assembly tube.

8 Seals

Should a proprietary seal kit be obtained, note

9 Stop screw

the direction of fitting of the seals before

10 Repair kit in assembly tube

removing them from the pistons.

11 Pressure regulating valve

34 Lubricate the cylinder bore with brake

Braking system 9•13

4 Wipe clean the area around the valves and

13.26 Exploded view of GMF master cylinder

place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions

to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the

1 Body

correct fitted positions of the unions then

2 Seals

unscrew the union nuts and carefully

3 Circlips

withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe

4 Reservoir

ends and master cylinder orifices to minimise

5 Reservoir cap/low level

the loss of brake fluid and to prevent the entry

switch

of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid

7 Spring

immediately with cold water.

8 Spring retainer

5 Unscrew the valves from the master

9 Secondary seals

cylinder.

10 Shims

Estate and Van

11 Secondary piston

12 Primary seals

6 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the

13 Circlip

master cylinder reservoir cap, and tightening it

14 Spring sleeve

down onto a piece of polythene to obtain an

15 Spring

airtight seal.

16 Spring retainer

7 Raise and securely support the rear of the

17 Primary piston

vehicle (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

18 Circlip

8 Slacken the valve spring bracket, push the

bracket rearwards and unhook the spring

from it (see illustration).

9 Clean around the hydraulic unions. Identify

the unions with tape or dabs of paint, then

unscrew them from the valve. Be prepared for

fluid spillage.

10 Unbolt and remove the valve.

Refitting

Hatchback and Saloon models

11 Make sure that both new valves are of the

same type and are stamped with the same

numbers (indicating their calibration). The

valves must always be renewed in pairs, even

if only one seems to be defective.

12 Fit the valves to the master cylinder and

fluid or brake rubber grease. Clamp the

tighten them to the specified torque.

cylinder with the bore horizontal.

Pressure regulating valves -

13 Reconnect the brake pipes, tightening the

35 Remove the plug from the assembly tube

testing, removal and refitting

union nuts to the specified torque.

and insert the short part of the tube into the

14 Bleed the complete hydraulic system, as

cylinder bore as far as the shoulder on the

described in Section 2.

Testing

tube. Use a blunt rod to push the piston out of

Estate and Van

1 Accurate testing of either type of pressure

the tube and into the bore; retain the pistons

15 Transfer the stone guard to the new valve.

regulating valve (master cylinder mounted or

in the bore with the smooth rod or needle

16 Bolt the new valve to the underbody and

underbody mounted) is not possible without

used when dismantling. Withdraw the rod and

tighten the mounting bolts to the specified

special equipment. Malfunction may be

the tube.

torque.

suspected if the rear brakes lock prematurely

36 Fit a new circlip to the end of the cylinder.

17 Connect the brake pipes, tightening the

in heavy braking, or if they seem not to be

union nuts to the specified torque.

Depress the primary piston and withdraw the

functioning at all.

18 Bleed the complete hydraulic system, as

retaining rod or needle. Make sure that the

2 A quick check of the underbody mounted

described in Section 2.

circlip is properly seated and that the pistons

valve fitted to Estate and Van models may be

are free to move.

made by observing the valve whilst an

37 Fit new sealing rings to the master

assistant makes sharp applications of the

cylinder and new circlips to the reservoir.

brake pedal. (The weight of the vehicle must

Press the reservoir into position until the

be on its wheels.) The lever on the valve must

circlips click into place.

be seen to move as the pedal is depressed

and released; if not, the valve is certainly

38 Prime the cylinder by pouring clean brake

defective.

fluid into the reservoir and working the pistons

with a rod until fluid is ejected from all orifices.

Removal

Refitting

Hatchback and Saloon models

39 Refitting is a reversal of removal, use new

Note: Renew both valves as a matched pair to

reservoir rubber seals and tighten all nuts and

ensure that the braking is not adversely

bolts to the specified torque settings (where

effected.

14.8 Load-dependent pressure regulating

given). On completion bleed the complete

3 Empty the master cylinder reservoir, as

valve, spring and bracket - Estate and Van

hydraulic system as described in Section 2.

described in paragraph 1 of Section 13.

models

9•14 Braking system

2 Unscrew the hose union nut at the inlet

manifold (see illustration).

3 Pull or prise the elbow connector out of the

servo (see illustration).

4 Cut the hose off the non-return valve, the

elbow and the manifold connectors.

5 Cut the new hose to length - it is sold by the

yard - and secure it to the valve and fittings

using hose clips. Make sure that the arrows

on the valve point towards the manifold.

6 Refit the connectors to the manifold and to

the servo.

15.2 Brake servo vacuum connection at

15.3 Brake servo vacuum connection at

16 Vacuum servo unit - testing,

inlet manifold (fuel injection model)

servo

removal and refitting

19 Attach the spring to the valve and to the

screws are extremely tight, and without doubt

spring bracket. Adjust the position of the

a well-fitting key and square drive adapter will

spring bracket so that the spring is neither

Testing

be needed (see illustration).

taut nor slack, then secure the bracket.

1 To establish whether or not the servo is

9 If the Allen screws cannot be undone, it is

20 Lower the vehicle. Perform a road test to

operating, proceed as follows.

possible to reach behind the servo and undo

confirm that rear brake operation is

2 With the engine not running, apply the

the four nuts which hold it to the bracket (see

satisfactory. Note that increasing the spring

brake pedal several times to exhaust any

illustration). Small hands, some dexterity and

tension increases the pressure to the rear

residual vacuum.

a good deal of patience will be needed. The

brakes, and vice versa.

3 Hold the brake pedal depressed and start

nuts are of the self-locking type and resist

the engine. The pedal should be felt to move

removal all the way.

down when the engine starts. If not, check the

10 With the screws or nuts removed, the

15 Brake servo vacuum hose and

vacuum hose and non-return valve.

servo can be removed from the car.

non-return valve - renewal

4 If the vacuum system is satisfactory, the

Left-hand drive

servo itself is faulty and must be renewed.

1 The plastic hose fitted as original

11 The procedure is similar to that just

equipment cannot be re-used; to renew the

Removal

described, but access to the servo bracket

valve, the hose must therefore be renewed as

fastenings is much easier. If power steering is

Right-hand drive

well. A serviceable valve can, however, be

fitted, a flexible head socket drive will be

transferred to the new hose.

5 Remove the vacuum connector from the

needed to reach the lower nut without

servo.

disturbing

the steering

gear

(see

6 Remove the nuts which secure the master

illustrations). On all models it will be

cylinder to the servo and draw the cylinder

necessary to remove the windscreen washer

away from the servo. There is no need to

reservoir.

disconnect the hydraulic pipes, but be careful

Refitting

not to strain them.

7 Inside the car, remove the stop-lamp switch

12 If a new servo is to be fitted, transfer the

and disconnect the brake pedal clevis - see

clevis and locknut to it. On right-hand drive

Section 17.

models, measure the fitted position of the

8 The servo must now be removed from its

clevis on the old servo pushrod and fit it in the

bracket. The recommended method is to

same position on the new one. On left-hand

undo the two 6 mm Allen screws which hold

drive models, when transferring the clevis and

the bracket halves together. Access to these

threaded sleeve to the new servo, set the

screws is obtained by removing the wiper

clevis-to-servo distance as shown

(see

arms, wind deflector and water deflector; the

illustration).

16.8 Removing a servo bracket screw

screws are then accessible through two holes

13 The remainder of refitting is a reverse of

which may have rubber plugs in them. The

removal, noting the following points:

16.9 Three of the four servo-to-bracket

16.11a Three servo mounting nuts

16.11b Servo mounting nut (arrowed)

nuts (arrowed) servo and bracket removed

(arrowed) - Left-hand drive models

obscured by steering gear - Left-hand

for clarity

drive models

Braking system 9•15

16.12 Servo clevis adjustment - Left-hand

16.13a Servo mounting bracket lower half

16.13b Fit the servo with the vacuum

drive models

remains on bulkhead

connector (arrowed) positioned as shown

A = 278.5 mm (10.97 in)

a) Use sealing compound on the bracket

removing the clevis pin retainer (split pin or

plastic sleeve from each brake backplate.

halves if they were separated (see

spring clip) and pushing the pin out.

6 Withdraw the cable from the backplates

illustration).

4 Remove the split pin from the end of the

and remove it.

b) Make sure the vacuum connection point

brake pedal shaft. Undo the shaft nut, remove

Refitting

is in the correct position (see

the washer and push the shaft out towards

illustration).

the steering column. The pedal can now be

7 Refit in the reverse order to removal, noting

c) Use thread locking compound or new

removed.

that the dark cable guide is fitted uppermost

self-locking nuts, as appropriate.

at the yoke, adjusting the handbrake as

Refitting

described in Chapter 1.

5 Refit in the reverse order to removal, using

17 Brake pedal - removal and

new split pins or other safety securing

19 Handbrake lever - removal

refitting

devices. Lubricate the pivot points with

and refitting

grease.

6 Before fitting the stop-lamp switch, pull its

Removal

plunger out as far as it will go. The switch will

Removal

1 Remove the stop-lamp switch by turning it

adjust itself once it is fitted (see illustration).

90° left or right and withdrawing it from its

1 Unscrew the yoke adjustment nut

bracket (see illustration).

completely and remove the yoke. Also remove

2 Unhook the pedal return spring.

18 Handbrake cable - removal

the rubber boot from the pull-rod.

3 Detach the clevis from the brake pedal by

and refitting

2 Remove the driver’s seat by unbolting its

rails from the floor.

3 Free the centre console by removing its

Removal

single securing screw, which is concealed by

1 Unscrew the yoke adjustment nut

a plastic plug. Remove the electric window

completely and remove the yoke.

and/or electric mirror switches, when fitted,

2 On models with rear drum brakes, remove

then slide the console rearwards to free it and

the brake drums, as described in Section 9.

lift it off the handbrake lever.

3 Free the cable from the brackets on the

4 Cut the carpet, as shown (see illustration).

underbody, fuel tank and rear axle.

5 Remove the two securing bolts and

4 Unhook the ends of the inner cable from the

withdraw the handbrake lever

(see

handbrake operating lever. On models with

illustration).

rear drum brakes the levers are on the leading

6 The handbrake warning switch can be

brake shoes and on models with rear disc

unbolted from the lever. The ratchet pawl and

brakes the lever is situated at the rear of the

segment can be renewed if facilities exist for

backplate.

removing and refitting their fastening bushes

17.1 Stop-lamp switch ‘keyhole’ mounting

5 Prise out the retaining ring and free the

and rivets.

(arrowed)

17.6 Stop-lamp switch plunger in extended

19.4 Cut the carpet along the line shown

19.5 Unbolting the handbrake lever

position (top) and after fitting (bottom)

(arrowed)

9•16 Braking system

Refitting

7 Commence refitting by bolting the

handbrake lever in place. Tighten the bolts to

the specified torque.

8 Secure the carpet with glue and/or sticky

tape. (The cut area will be covered by the

console.)

9 Refit and secure the console, and its

switches when applicable.

10 Refit and secure the front seat.

11 Refit the rubber boot and yoke. Adjust the

handbrake, as described in Section 22.

20.2 Handbrake cable and spring

20.3a Removing a steady washer . . .

20 Handbrake shoes (rear disc

attachment (arrowed) on brake backplate -

brake models) - renewal

rear disc brake models

8 Offer the shoes to the backplate, fitting the

Warning: Note that the dust

leading shoe over the captive steady pin. Fit

created by wear of the shoes

the other steady pin and the steady springs

may contain asbestos, which is

and washers.

a health hazard. Never blow it

9 Reconnect the handbrake cable and the

out with compressed air and don’t inhale

return spring.

any of it. An approved filtering mask

10 Refit the brake disc as described in

should be worn when working on the

Section 8.

brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based

11 Adjust the handbrake as described in

solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake

Chapter 1.

cleaner or methylated spirit only.

21 Anti-lock braking system (ABS)

1 Remove the rear brake disc (Section 8).

- general information

20.3b . . . and the rear steady pin

2 Disconnect the handbrake cable and the

return spring from the backplate

(see

illustration).

The anti-lock braking system

(ABS) is

unit generates the hydraulic pressure, which is

3 Remove the steady washers and springs by

available as an option on most models from

higher than that which would be produced by

1989. The system monitors the rotational

depressing the washers and turning them

the master cylinder alone.

speed of each wheel and prevents lock-up

through 90°. Remove the rear steady pin. The

In use, the onset of the anti-lock function is

during braking by reducing the hydraulic

front pin is captive on the backplate (see

indicated to the driver by a pulsating of the

pressure to any wheel cylinder or caliper

illustrations).

brake pedal. Any malfunction in the system is

where lock-up is occurring. This is particularly

4 Remove the shoes complete with springs,

indicated by a warning light on the instrument

valuable when braking on loose or slippery

adjuster and expander mechanism

(see

panel. When the system is working correctly,

surfaces, or during emergency braking when

illustration). Unhook the springs and

steering corrections may also be taking place.

the warning light will illuminate for a few

separate the components.

However the system will not protect against

seconds when the ignition is switched on, but

5 Clean the components and renew worn or

skids caused by excessively fast cornering or

will then go out and remain out. If it comes on

damaged items. Apply a little high

heavy acceleration on poor surfaces.

during driving, there is a fault. Normal braking

melting-point grease or anti-seize compound

The main components of the system are

is not affected by malfunction of the ABS.

to the adjuster threads, then screw the

shown in illustration 21.2. Magnetic pulses are

The ECU is mounted under the facia on the

adjuster in so that it is as short as possible.

induced in the wheel speed sensors by a

left-hand side. It is protected against voltage

6 Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to

toothed disc which is part of the brake disc or

surges by a surge arrester relay and fuse

the shoe rubbing areas on the brake

drum. The pulses are monitored by the

mounted together under the bonnet. The ECU

backplate (see illustration).

electronic control unit (ECU). The ECU alters

has its own fault diagnosis program, but this

7 Assemble the shoes, adjuster and

the hydraulic pressure when necessary by

is only accessible to Vauxhall dealers or other

expander. Hook the springs into the holes in

means of solenoid valves located in the

specialists with the necessary test equipment.

the shoes (see illustration).

hydraulic unit. An electric pump in the hydraulic

No routine maintenance of the ABS

20.4 Removing the handbrake shoe

20.6 Anti-seize compound applied to

20.7 Handbrake shoe assembly ready for

assembly

rubbing points (arrowed)

refitting

Braking system 9•17

21.2 Main components of the ABS

1 Front wheel speed sensors

2 Rear wheel speed sensors

3 Master cylinder

4 Servo

5 Hydraulic unit

6 Electronic control unit

7 Brake proportioning valves

8 Diagnostic Plug

components is required. The hydraulic pipes

anti-seize compound to the body of the

and unions must be inspected for condition

22 Anti-lock braking system

sensor. Check for correct operation of the

and security in the same way as any other

(ABS) components - removal

ABS on completion.

part of the brake hydraulic system

and refitting

Electronic control unit (ECU)

Note that the ECU is electrically fragile and

should be treated with the same precautions

5 Disconnect the battery earth

(negative)

as the fuel injection system control unit.

Wheel speed sensor

lead.

6 Remove the under-dash trim on the

Note: The rear wheel speed sensor on 1992

passenger (left-hand) side. This is secured by

model year vehicles has its pulse pick-up

point unit integral in the hub housing. In the

four clips.

event of the pick-up unit malfunctioning, it will

7 Remove the ECU from its bracket. Release

need to be renewed complete with the rear

the spring clip, disconnect the multi-plug and

wheel hub unit as described in Chapter 10.

remove the ECU.

1 Disconnect the battery earth

(negative)

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

lead.

procedure. Check for correct operation of the

2 Remove the single securing screw and

ABS on completion.

withdraw the sensor (see illustrations).

3 Follow the wiring back from the sensor to

ABS surge arrester relay

the connector. Unclip the connector and

9 Disconnect the battery earth

(negative)

separate the two halves (see illustrations).

lead.

4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

10 Unscrew or unclip the relay bracket. It is

22.2a ABS rear wheel speed sensor on

procedure, but apply a smear of grease or

on the left-hand suspension turret; the relay is

brake backplate securing screw arrowed

22.2b ABS front wheel speed sensor

22.2c Removing a front wheel speed

22.2d ABS rear wheel speed sensor

sensor

(arrowed) on models with rear drum brakes

9•18 Braking system

22.3a Rear sensor connectors next to

22.3b Separating a front sensor connector

22.10 ABS surge arrester relay (arrowed)

petrol tank (earlier models)

22.15 Two screws (arrowed) which secure

22.16a Removing the relays from the

22.16b Squeeze the multi-plug catch

the hydraulic unit cover

hydraulic unit

(arrowed) to realise it

the one nearest the ABS hydraulic unit (see

cling film, or by blocking the vent hole

slotted mounting holes are used there is no

illustration). Disconnect the multi-plug from

temporarily with a piece of tape.

need to remove the bolts completely.)

the relay and remove it.

15 Remove the hydraulic unit cover, which is

Disconnect the earth strap from the hydraulic

11 Note that the relay carries its own fuse.

secured by two screws (see illustration).

unit pump and remove the unit.

This fuse should be checked before

16 Remove the two relays from the unit.

19 A defective hydraulic unit must be

condemning the relay.

Release the multi-plug catch by squeezing its

exchanged or renewed. Retain the relays from

12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

two halves together and disconnect the

the old unit and fit them to the new one. The

procedure.

multi-plug (see illustrations).

relay nearest the hydraulic connectors

ABS hydraulic unit removal and

17 Clean around the hydraulic unions on the

controls the solenoid valves and the other one

refitting

unit. Make identifying marks if necessary so

controls the pump motor.

13 Disconnect the battery earth (negative)

that each pipe can be refitted to its original

20 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

lead.

location, then disconnect the hydraulic pipes

procedure, noting the following points:

14 To minimise hydraulic fluid loss, top-up

from the unit. Cap or plug open pipes and

a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the

the reservoir to the maximum level and seal

unions.

specified torque

the cap by tightening it down over a piece of

18 Undo the three mounting bolts. (Where

b) Bleed the hydraulic system on completion

10•1

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering

Contents

Control arm balljoint - renewal

Rear axle mounting bushes - renewal

Control arm bushes - renewal

Rear hub - removal and refitting

Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting

Rear hub bearings - adjustment

Front hub bearings - renewal

Rear hub bearings renewal

Front suspension control arm - removal and refitting

Rear shock absorbers - removal and refitting

Front suspension strut - overhaul

Rear springs - removal and refitting

Front suspension strut - removal and refitting

Steering column - removal and refitting

Front suspension and steering check

See Chapter 1

Steering column - overhaul

General information

Steering column flexible coupling - removal and refitting

Leaf spring rear suspension components (Astramax) - removal and

Steering damper- removal and refitting

refitting

Steering gear- removal and refitting

Level control system - description and maintenance

Steering gear - overhaul

Power-assisted steering - bleeding

Steering lock cylinder and ignition switch wiring block - removal and

Power steering fluid reservoir - removal and refitting

refitting

Power steering pump - removal and refitting

Steering rack bellows- removal and refitting

Power steering pump drivebelt check, adjustment and

Steering wheel - removal and refitting

renewal

See Chapter 1

Tie-rod balljoints- removal and refitting

Rear anti-roll bar removal and refitting

Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information

Rear axle assembly - removal and refitting

Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks .See Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

DIY or professional

Specifications

Front suspension

Type

Independent, MacPherson strut, with anti-roll bar on most models

Rear suspension

Type:

Astramax models

Tubular axle with leaf springs and telescopic shock absorbers

All other models

Semi-independent, trailing link with coil springs and telescopic shock

absorbers. Level control system optional; anti-roll bar on some models

Steering

Type

Rack and pinion. Power assistance on some models

Wheel alignment and steering angles

Front wheels:

Toe setting

1.0 mm ± 1.0 mm toe-out

Camber (non-adjustable):

Standard*

-1º 15’ + 0º 15’

Maximum difference between sides

1º

Castor (non-adjustable):

Standard*

0º to 2º45’

Maximum difference between sides

1º

Rear wheels:

Toe setting (non-adjustable):

Standard*

0º 10’ toe-out to 0º 40’ toe-in

Maximum difference between sides

0º 15’

Camber (non-adjustable):

Standard*:

Rear drum brake models

0º to -1º

Rear disc brake models

-1º10’ to -2º10’

Maximum difference between sides

0º 30’

*With 70 kg in each front seat, fuel tank half full and (where necessary) the level control system inflated to 1 bar

10•2 Suspension and steering

Roadwheels

Type

Pressed-steel or aluminium alloy (depending on model)

Size

4.5J x 13, 5J x 13, 5.5J x 13 or 5.5J x 14

Tyres

Size:

4.5J x 13

145 R 13

5J x 13

155 R 13

5.5J x 13

155 R 13 or 175/70 R 13

5.5J x 14

175/65 R 14, 185/60 R 14 or 185/65 R 14

Pressures - refer to Chapter 1 Specifications

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Front suspension

Control arm pivot bolt

140

103

Control arm clamp bolts

Control arm balljoint pin nut

Control arm balljoint securing nuts

Suspension strut top mounting nuts

Suspension strut piston rod nut

Suspension strut ring nut

200

148

Steering tie-rod balljoint nut

Anti-roll bar brackets

Rear suspension

Axle arm mountings to underbody

105

Rear anti-roll bar to rear axle

Rear auxiliary anti-roll bar - 2.0 litre 16-valve models

Shock absorber lower mountings:

Hatchback, Saloon and Astramax

Estate and Van

Shock absorber top mountings:

Hatchback and Saloon

See text

Estate, Van and Astramax

Rear hub bearing nut:

Stage 1

Stage 2

See text

Leaf spring suspension components (Astramax):

U-bolt nuts

Bump stop cup nut

Bump stop

Brake pressure regulating valve spring bracket

Steering

Adjuster screw locknut

Flexible coupling clamp bolts

Steering wheel nut

Steering gear mountings

Pinion nut

Steering damper mounting (pinion end)

Steering damper mounting (moving end)

See text

Tie-rod to rack

110

Tie-rod balljoint nut

Tie-rod and balljoint clamp bolts

Steering column support to bulkhead

Steering column bracket self - locking nut

Power steering fittings:

Hydraulic unions on rack

Hydraulic unions on pump

Union nut - flexible hose to high pressure pipe

Pump support to block

Pump brackets to support

Tensioner strap to pump

Tensioner strap to support

Tensioner locknuts

Roadwheels

Wheel bolts

Suspension and steering 10•3

shock absorbers are used, mounted

A collapsible steering column is fitted; on

independently of each other. Again, an

some models the top part of the column is

1 General information

anti-roll bar is fitted to most models (see

adjustable to provide different steering wheel

illustration). On 2.0 litre 16-valve models and

positions.

The front suspension is fully independent. It

auxiliary anti-roll bar is also fitted.

A steering damper is fitted to certain

consists of MacPherson struts; the coil

A driver-operated level control system is

models without power assistance to reduce

springs surrounding the shock absorbers. An

available as an option on some models. The

the feedback of shocks to the steering wheel.

anti-roll bar is fitted to most models (see

system enables the vehicle ride height and

Power assistance is available as an option

illustration).

attitude to be maintained regardless of

on the larger-engined models. Assistance is

Rear suspension is by axle tube and twin

by hydraulic pressure, generated in a pump

trailing arms. Coil springs and telescopic

The steering gear is of rack and pinion type.

driven from the crankshaft pulley.

1.1 Exploded view of the front suspension components

1 Suspension assembly (LH)

10 Spring

19 Hub

28 Mounting point

2 Cap

11 Bellows

20 Brake disc

29 Control arm pivot bush

3 Piston rod nut

12 Ring nut

21 Driveshaft nut

30 Control arm pivot bolt

4 Strut mounting nut

13 Shock absorber cartridge

22 Brake caliper

31 Anti-roll bar link bolt

5 Strut top mounting

14 Steering eye

23 Control arm balljoint

32 Anti-roll bar link

6 Thrustwasher

15 Steering knuckle

24 Balljoint nut

33 Anti-roll bar

7 Spring seat

16 Brake disc shield

25 Control arm clamp

34 Anti-roll bar mounting

8 Guide ring

17 Circlips

26 Control arm rear bush

35 Anti-roll bar clamp

9 Damper ring

18 Hub bearing

27 Control arm

36 Driveshaft

10•4 Suspension and steering

1.2 Exploded view of rear suspension components

1 Shock absorber (Estate)

5 Hub nut

9 Inner bearing

13 Axle arm bush

2 Spring*

6 Thrustwasher

10 Oil seal

14 Anti-roll bar

3 Shock absorber (Hatchback)

7 Outer bearing

11 Stub axle

15 Rubber damper

4 Spring*

8 Hub

12 Axle arm

*Typical - alternative type may be fitted

the driveshaft into the hub. Fit a new washer

13 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle and

2 Front suspension strut -

and castellated nut, but only tighten the nut

tighten the wheel bolts.

removal and refitting

finger tight at this stage.

9 Reconnect the control arm balljoint. Tighten

the pin nut to the specified torque and secure

3 Front hub bearings - renewal

Removal

it with a new split pin.

10 Reconnect the tie-rod balljoint. Fit a new

1 Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise and

1 Remove the suspension strut (Section 2).

self-locking nut and tighten it to the specified

support the vehicle (see “Jacking and Vehicle

2 Remove the securing screw and take off

torque.

Support”) and remove the front wheel.

the brake disc.

11 Clean out the brake caliper mounting bolt

2 Remove the split pin and undo the

3 Support the steering knuckle and press or

holes, then refit the caliper and secure with

driveshaft retaining nut (see Chapter 8 for

drive out the hub. Alternatively, draw off the

new bolts coated with thread locking

details). Remove the nut and washer.

hub by screwing two wheel bolts onto

compound. Tighten the bolts to the specified

3 Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it up out of

progressively thicker packing pieces

(see

torque (see Chapter 9 Specifications).

the way so that the hydraulic hose is not

illustrations).

12 Tighten the driveshaft nut (see Chapter 8).

strained (See Chapter 9 for details).

4 Disconnect the tie-rod and control arm

balljoints using a balljoint separator.

5 Push the driveshaft out of the hub and tie it

up out of the way (see Chapter 8). Remember

that the vehicle must not be moved on its

wheels without the hub bearing being clamped.

6 Undo the two securing nuts from the

suspension turret and remove the strut

downwards.

Refitting

7 Commence refitting by offering the strut to

the turret. Secure it with new self-locking

nuts, tightened to the specified torque.

3.3a Removing the hub from the carrier

3.3b Hub removed from the carrier

8 Lubricate the driveshaft splines and pass

Content .. 7 8 9 10 ..