Content .. 1 2 3 ..

Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual - part 2

1•16

Every 18 000 miles

24.7 On 1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve models,

24.8a . . . then release the retaining

24.8b . . . and remove the air cleaner

disconnect the airflow sensor wiring

clips . . .

housing cover, complete with the filter

connector . . .

element

24.9 On fitting, ensure the element is

24.10 Disconnecting the trunking from the

24.13 Fitting a new air cleaner element -

correctly seated in the cover groove

air cleaner - 2.0 litre 16-valve models

2.0 litre 16-valve models

7 Release the locking clip, and disconnect

the air cleaner to the mass meter

(see

plug the hose ends as they are disconnected

the plug from the airflow sensor

(see

illustration).

(see illustration).

illustration). Disconnect the air trunking.

11 Release the four spring clips which secure

4 Loosen the clamp bolt, and withdraw the

8 Release the spring clips, and lift off the air

the air cleaner lid. Remove the lid.

filter from its clamp. Note the orientation of

cleaner cover with airflow sensor attached.

12 Remove the element and wipe clean the

the fuel flow direction indicator on the filter.

The element will probably come away with the

inside of the filter housing and lid.

This will be in the form of an arrow which

cover (see illustrations). Do not drop or jar

13 Fit a new element, sealing lip uppermost

points in the direction of the fuel flow, or the

the airflow sensor.

(see illustration). Refit and secure the lid and

filter will have AUS (out) stamped on its outlet

9 Wipe clean the inside of the air cleaner an

trunking.

side (see illustration).

fit a new element to the cover, engaging the

5 Recover the mounting rubber from the old

element seal in the cover recess

(see

filter, and transfer it to the new filter.

25 Fuel filter renewal - fuel

illustration). Refit and secure the cover, then

6 Fit the new filter making sure its fuel flow

injection models

reconnect the airflow sensor plug. Refit the air

direction indicator is facing the right way.

trunking.

7 Reconnect the hose and securely tighten

Warning: Before carrying out

their retaining clips.

2.0 litre 16-valve models

the following operation refer to

8 Start the engine and check the disturbed

10 Disconnect the trunking which connects

the precautions given in Safety

hose connections for signs of leakage.

first! and follow them implicitly.

Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile

liquid and the precautions necessary

when handling it cannot be overstressed.

1 The fuel filter is located under the rear of the

vehicle. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear

of the vehicle, and support securely on axle

stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support“).

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead and

position a suitable container below the fuel

filter, to catch spilt fuel.

3 Slacken the retaining clips and, bearing in

mind the information given in Chapter 4B on

depressurising the fuel system, disconnect

both hoses. To minimise fuel loss clamp the

25.3 Fuel filter showing mounting and

25.4 Fuel filter directional marking

hose connections

hoses either side of the filter or be prepared to

Every 18 000 miles 1•17

26 Carburettor fuel inlet filter

cleaning

Warning: Before carrying out the

following operation refer to the

precautions given in Safety first!

and follow them implicitly. Petrol

is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid

and the precautions necessary when

handling it cannot be overstressed.

Referring to the relevant Section of Chapter

27.2 Removing the manual transmission

27.4a To top up, unscrew the

4A, remove the filter, wash it fresh fuel to

level plug - early 1.6 litre model shown

breather/filler plug from the top of the

remove any debris from it. Inspect the filter for

transmission . . .

signs of clogging or splitting and renew it if

will probably be required. If the friction

necessary. Refit the filter and reconnect the

material on any shoe is worn down to the

fuel hose.

specified minimum thickness or less, all four

shoes must be renewed as a set.

3 For a comprehensive check, the brake

27 Manual transmission oil level

drum should be removed and cleaned. This

check

will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked,

and the condition of the brake drum itself to

1 Ensure that the vehicle is standing on level

be fully examined (see Chapter 9).

ground and the handbrake applied.

2 Working underneath the vehicle, unscrew

the transmission oil level plug

(see

30 Brake fluid renewal

illustration). The level plug is located beside

the driveshaft inner CV joint; on 1.2, 1.3, 1.4

and later 1.6 litre models the plug is on the

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid

27.4b . . . then top up via the breather/filler

left-hand side of the transmission, and on all

can harm your eyes and damage

plug orifice

other models it is on the right-hand side.

painted surfaces, so use

3 The oil level should be up to the lower edge

level with new fluid and continue pumping

extreme caution when handling

of the level plug hole.

and pouring it. Do not use fluid

until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir

4 If necessary, top-up with oil through the

that has been standing open for some

and new fluid can be seen emerging from the

breather/filler orifice in the gear selector

time as it absorbs moisture from the air.

bleed screw. Tighten the screw and top the

cover. Unscrew the breather/filler plug, and

Excess moisture can cause a dangerous

reservoir level up to the `MAX’ level line.

top-up with the specified grade of oil, until oil

loss of braking effectiveness.

just begins to run from the level plug hole. A

Old hydraulic fluid is

1 The procedure is similar to that for the

invariably much darker in

funnel may be helpful, to avoid spillage (see

bleeding of the hydraulic system as described

colour than the new, making

illustrations). Do not overfill - if too much oil

in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid

it easy to distinguish the two.

is added, wait until the excess has run out of

reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,

the level plug hole. Refit the level plug and the

using a clean poultry baster or similar before

3 Work through all the remaining bleed screws

breather/filler plug on completion.

starting, and allowance should be made for

in sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of

the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a

them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder

section of the circuit.

reservoir topped up to above the `MIN’ level at

28 Clutch adjustment check

2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open

all times or air may enter the system and

the first bleed screw in the sequence and

greatly increase the length of the task.

pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all

Refer to Chapter 6

4 When the operation is complete, check that

the old fluid has been emptied from the

all bleed screws are securely tightened and

master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the `MAX’

that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all

29 Rear brake shoe, wheel

traces of spilt fluid and recheck the master

cylinder and drum check

cylinder reservoir fluid level.

5 Check the operation of the brakes before

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the

taking the car on the road.

rear of the vehicle, and support it securely on

axle stands

(see

“Jacking and Vehicle

Support”).

31 Headlamp aim check

2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction

material remaining on one of the brake shoes

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam

can be observed through the hole in the brake

is only possible using optical beam-setting

backplate which is exposed by prising out the

equipment, and this work should therefore be

sealing grommet (see illustration). If a rod of

carried out by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or

the same diameter as the specified minimum

service station with the necessary facilities.

friction material thickness is placed against

29.2 Removing the sealing grommet from

Basic adjustments can be carried out in an

the shoe friction material, the amount of wear

the inspection hole in the rear brake

emergency, and further details are given in

can be assessed. A torch or inspection light

backplate

Chapter 12.

1•18 Maintenance procedures

Every 2 Years

32 Coolant renewal

Cooling system draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is

cold before starting this

procedure. Do not allow

antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin or painted surfaces of the

vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with

plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze

lying around in an open container or in a

32.19a On 1.2 litre models, bleed the

32.19b On 1.3 litre models, unscrew

puddle in the driveway or on the garage

cooling system through the cylinder head

temperature gauge sender unit from the

floor. Children and pets are attracted by its

heater hose outlet

manifold to bleed the cooling system

sweet smell. Antifreeze is fatal if ingested.

with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is

sender/bleed screw (as applicable) and tighten

1 To drain the cooling system, remove the

important that the manufacturers instructions

it securely (all other models).

expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-

are followed carefully. If the contamination is

23 Top-up the coolant level to the “KALT” (or

clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait

particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator

“COLD”) mark on the expansion tank, then

until any pressure remaining in the system is

bottom outlet, and flush the radiator in reverse.

refit the expansion tank cap.

released then push the cap down, turn it anti-

24 Start the engine and run it until it reaches

Engine flushing

clockwise to the second stop and lift off.

normal operating temperature, then stop the

2 Position a suitable container beneath the

14 To flush the engine, remove the

engine and allow it to cool.

radiator bottom hose union.

thermostat as described in Chapter 3, then

25 Check for leaks, particularly around

3 Slacken the hose clip and ease the hose

temporarily refit the thermostat cover.

disturbed components. Check the coolant

from the radiator stub. If the hose joint has not

15 With the top and bottom hoses

level in the expansion tank, and top-up if

been disturbed for some time, it will be

disconnected from the radiator, insert a

necessary. Note that the system must be cold

necessary to gently manipulate the hose to

garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct

before an accurate level is indicated in the

break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or

a clean flow of water through the engine, and

expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is

the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the

continue flushing until clean water emerges

removed while the engine is still warm, cover

coolant to drain into the container.

from the radiator bottom hose.

the cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the

4 As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted and

16 On completion of flushing, refit the

thermostat and reconnect the hoses with

cap slowly to gradually relieve the system

the radiator bottom hose union may be

reference to Chapter 3.

pressure (a hissing sound will normally be

situated halfway up the radiator, this may not

heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in

fully drain the cooling system.

Cooling system filling

the system is released, then continue to turn

5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason

17 Before attempting to fill the cooling system,

the cap until it can be removed.

other than renewal, then provided it is clean

make sure that all hoses and clips are in good

and less than two years old, it can be re-used.

Antifreeze mixture

condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that

6 Reconnect the hose and securely tighten its

an antifreeze mixture must be used all year

26 The antifreeze should always be renewed

retaining clip on completion of draining.

round, to prevent corrosion of the engine

at the specified intervals. This is necessary

Cooling system flushing

components (see following sub-Section). Also

not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,

check that the radiator and cylinder block drain

but also to prevent corrosion which would

7 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if

plugs are in place and tight.

otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors

the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,

18 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.

become progressively less effective.

then in time, the cooling system may gradually

19 On 1.2 litre models, disconnect the heater

27 Always use an ethylene-glycol based

lose efficiency, as the coolant passages

hose from the cylinder head, on 1.3, 1.4 and

antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed

become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,

later 1.6 litre engines models, disconnect the

metal cooling systems. The quantity of

and other sediment.

wire and unscrew the coolant temperature

antifreeze and levels of protection are

8 The cooling system efficiency can be

sender from the inlet manifold. On early 1.6,

indicated in the Specifications.

restored by flushing the system clean.

and all 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, unscrew the

28 Before adding antifreeze the cooling

9 The radiator should be flushed

bleed screw which is situated in the

system should be completely drained,

independently of the engine to avoid

thermostat housing cover (where no bleed

preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for

unnecessary contamination.

screw is fitted, unscrew the temperature

condition and security.

Radiator flushing

sender unit) (see illustrations).

29 After filling with antifreeze, a label should

10 To flush the radiator, drain the cooling

20 Fill the system by slowly pouring the

be attached to the expansion tank stating the

system then proceed as follows.

coolant into the expansion tank to prevent

type and concentration of antifreeze used and

11 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect

airlocks from forming.

the date installed. Any subsequent topping up

the top and bottom hoses from the radiator.

21 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by

should be made with the same type and

12 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top

pouring in a couple of litres of water, followed

concentration of antifreeze.

inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the

by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top-

30 Do not use engine antifreeze in the screen

radiator, and continue flushing until clean

up with more water.

washer system, as it will cause damage to the

water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.

22 When coolant free of air bubbles emerges

vehicle paintwork. A proprietry screen should

13 If after a reasonable period, the water still

from the orifice, reconnect the heater hose (1.2

be added to the washer system in the

does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed

litre models) or refit the coolant temperature

recommended quantities.

Maintenance procedures 1•19

Every 36 000 miles

fluid in a suitable container.

mating surfaces are clean and dry and bolt on

33 Automatic transmission fluid

4 Remove the remaining screw and the pan.

the fluid pan using a new gasket. Where no

renewal

Peel off the gasket (where fitted) or remove all

gasket is fitted, apply a bead of sealant about

traces of sealant (as applicable).

5.0 mm thick to clean surfaces. The fluid pan

1 Allow the transmission to cool down before

5 Pull the filter mesh from its securing clips

which is fitted with a gasket can be identified

draining, as the fluid: can be very hot indeed.

and recover its sealing ring. Clean the filter in

by the strengthening ribs on the pan flanges.

2 Remove all the fluid pan screws except one

a high flash-point solvent and allow it to dry. If

The pan for use with silicone sealant has plain

which should be unscrewed through several

the filter is clogged or split it must be

flanges.

turns.

renewed.

8 Fill the transmission with the specified

3 Release the fluid pan from its gasket and as

6 Fit a new O-ring and refit the filter securely.

quantity of fluid and then check the level as

the end of the pan tilts downwards, catch the

7 Ensure that the fluid pan and transmission

described in Section 13.

Specifications

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixtures:

Protection down to -15ºC

28% antifreeze

Protection down to -30ºC

50% antifreeze

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendation

Fuel system

Idle speed:

Carburettor models:

Manual transmission

900 to 950 rpm

Automatic transmission

800 to 850 rpm

Fuel-injected models:

1.4 litre models

830 to 990 rpm*

1.6 litre models

720 to 880 rpm*

1.8 litre models:

Early (pre 1987) models:

Manual transmission

900 to 950 rpm

Automatic transmission

800 to 850 rpm

Later (1987 onwards) models

800 to 900 rpm

2.0 litre models

720 to 780 rpm*

Idle mixture CO content:

Carburettor models

1.0 to 1.5%

Fuel-injected models

Less than 1.0%**

*Not adjustable - controlled by ECU

**On all 1.4 and 1.6 litre fuel injection models, and 2.0 litre models with a catalytic converter the exhaust gas CO content is regulated by the

control unit and is not adjustable

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

Type:

1.2 litre models

Champion RL82YCC or RL82YC

1.3, 1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models

Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

2.0 litre models:

8-valve models

Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

16-valve models

Champion RC9MCC

Electrode gap:

RL82YCC, RN9YCC and RC9MCC plugs

0.8 mm

RL82YC and RN9YC plugs

0.7 mm

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be

fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s spark plug gap recommendations.

HT leads

Champion type not available

Braking system

Brake pad minimum thickness (including backing plate)

7.0 mm

Rear brake shoe minimum friction material-to-rivet head depth

0.5 mm

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Sump drain plug

Spark plugs

Roadwheel bolts

2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A:

OHV engine

Contents

Ancillary components - removal and refitting

Engine lubrication system - general description

Camshaft and tappets - removal and refitting

Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting

Compression test - description and interpretation

Flywheel - removal and refitting

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting

General description

Crankshaft rear oil seal - removal and refitting

General engine checks

See Chapter 1

Cylinder head - overhaul

Oil pump - overhaul

Cylinder head - removal and refitting

Oil pump - removal and refitting

Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising

Operations possible with the engine in the car

Engine oil and filter - renewal

See Chapter 1

Operations requiring engine removal

Engine oil level check

See Weekly checks

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul

Sump - removal and refitting

Engine - removal and refitting

Timing gear components - removal and refitting

Engine components - examination and renovation

Valve clearances - adjustment

Engine dismantling and reassembly - general

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

DIY or professional

Specifications

General

Maker’s designation

12 SC

Bore x stroke

79.0 x 61.0 mm

Cubic capacity

1196 cc

Compression ratio

9.0: 1

Valve clearances (warm)

Inlet

0.15 mm

Exhaust

0.25 mm

Cylinder head

Identification mark

Valve seat width:

Inlet

1.25 to 1.50 mm

Exhaust

1.60 to 1.85 mm

Overall height

81 ± 0.25 mm

Valves and guides

Inlet

Exhaust

Overall length

99.3 mm

101.1 mm

Head diameter

32 mm

29 mm

Stem diameter (nominal, ± 0.005 mm):

Standard

7.005 mm

6.995 mm

Oversize 1

7.080 mm

7.060 mm

Oversize 2

7.155 mm

7.1 35 mm

Oversize A

7.255 mm

7.235 mm

Valve guide bore (± 0.01 mm):

Standard

7.035 mm

Oversize 1

7.110 mm

Oversize 2

7.185 mm

Oversize A

7.285 mm

Valve clearance in guide:

Inlet

0.01 5 to 0.045 mm

Exhaust

0.035 to 0.065 mm

Sealing face angle

44°

2A•2 OHV engine

Camshaft

Radial run-out

0.03 mm max

Endfloat

0.17 to 0.43 mm

Cam lift

6.45 mm

Pistons and bores

Diameters

Marking

Production size 1

78.95 mm

78.96 mm

78.97 mm

78.98 mm

Production size 2

78.99 mm

79.00 mm

79.01 mm

79.02 mm

Production size 3

79.03 mm

79.04 mm

79.05 mm

79.06 mm

Production size 4

79.07 mm

79.08 mm

79.09 mm

79.10 mm

Oversize (+0.5 mm nominal)

79.47 mm

79.47/7 +0.5

79.48 mm

79.48/8 +0.5

79.49 mm

79.49/9 +0.5

79.50 mm

79.50/0 + 0.5

Pistons clearance in bore

0.1 to 0.3 mm estimated

Bore out-of-round and taper

0.013 mm max

Piston rings

Quantity (per piston)

2 compression, 1 oil control (scraper)

Thickness:

Compression

2.0 mm

Oil control

5.0 mm

End gap:

Compression

0.30 to 0.45 mm

Oil control

0.40 to 1.40 mm

Ring gap offset

180° (see text)

Ring vertical clearance in groove

Not specified - typically 0.06 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length

65 mm

Diameter

20 mm

Clearance in piston

0.0015 to 0.0195 mm

Clearance in connecting rod

None (interference fit)

Crankshaft and bearings

Number of main bearings

Main bearing journal diameters - standard:

Front

53.997 to 54.010 mm

Centre and rear

54.007 to 54.020 mm

Centre journal width - standard

29.000 to 29.052 mm

Main bearing shell identification - standard:

Colour code

Embossed code

Front, top

Brown

1 ON or 701-N

Front, bottom

Brown

1 UN or 702-N

Centre, top

Brown

20+UN or 705-N

Centre, bottom

Green

20+UN or 725-N

Rear, top

Green

631-N

Rear, bottom

Green

635-N

Main bearing shell identification - standard journal, oversize housing:

Front, top

U1 -OB

Front, bottom

U1-U

Centre, top and bottom

Rear, top

U3-OB

Rear, bottom

U3-U

Big-end bearing journal diameter - standard

4.971 to 44.987 mm

Big-end bearing shell identification - standard

None

Main and big-end bearing undersizes

0.25 mm production and service; 0.50 mm service only

OHV engine 2A•3

Main bearing shell identification - 0.25 undersize:

Colour code

Embossed code

Front, top

Brown-blue

1 OA or 006-A

Front, bottom

Brown-blue

1 UA or 008-A

Centre, top

Brown-blue

20+UA or 014-A

Centre, bottom

Brown

20+UA or 034-A

Rear, top

Green-blue

632-A

Rear, bottom

Green-blue

636-A

Main bearing shell identification - 0.50 undersize:

Front, top

Brown-black

1 OB or 027 B

Front, bottom

Brown-black

1 U or 029 B

Centre, top

Brown-black

2 OB 0.35 B

Centre, bottom

Green-black

2 UB 035 B

Rear, top

None

3 OB 0,50

Rear, bottom

None

3 U 0,50

Big-end bearing shell identification:

0.25 undersize

0.50 undersize

Main and big-end bearing journal out-of-round

0.006 mm max

Main and big-end bearing journal taper

0.01 mm max

Crankshaft endfloat

0.09 to 0.20 mm

Connecting rod endfloat

0.02 to 0.06 mm

Main bearing running clearance:

Front

0.020 to 0.046 mm

Centre

0.010 to 0.036 mm

Rear

0.01 0 to 0.032 mm estimated

Big-end bearing running clearance

0.11 to 0.24 mm

Crankshaft radial run-out (at centre journal, shaft in block)

0.03 mm max

Flywheel

Ring gear run-out

0.5 mm max

Refinishing limit - depth of material which may be removed from

clutch friction surface

0.3 mm max

Lubrication system

Oil pump tolerances:

Teeth backlash

0.1 to 0.2 mm

Teeth projection

0.04 to 0.10 mm

Oil pressure at idle (engine warm)

1.5 bar

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Flywheel bolts (Use new bolts every time):

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 50° to 90°

Main bearing caps

Big-end bearing caps

Sump bolts (with locking compound)

Cylinder head bolts (use new bolts every time):

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 60°

Stage 3

Angle-tighten a further 60°

Stage 4

Angle-tighten a further 60°

Camshaft sprocket

Crankshaft pulley

Engine mounting bracket, RH:

To block (use sealant on lower bolt)

To damping pad

Engine mountings to body:

LH rear

RH rear

Sump drain plug

Oil pump mounting bolts

The crankshaft is supported in three shell

gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in

1 General description

type main bearings. Thrustwashers are

the connecting rod small-end bore. The

incorporated in the centre main bearing to

aluminium alloy pistons are of the slipper type

control crankshaft endfloat.

and are fitted with three piston rings: two

The engine is of four-cylinder. in-line

The connecting rods are attached to the

compression rings and an oil control ring.

overhead valve type, mounted transversely at

crankshaft by horizontally split shell type

The camshaft is chain driven from the

the front of the car.

big-end bearings. and to the pistons by

crankshaft and operates the rocker arms via

2A•4 OHV engine

tappets and short pushrods. The inlet and

as to whether a particular pressure reading is

2 Drain the oil into a suitable container and

exhaust valves are each closed by a single

acceptable.

then thoroughly clean the exterior of the

valve spring and operates in guides, integral

9 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry

engine using a degreasing solvent or paraffin.

with the cylinder head. The valves are

out the following test to isolate the cause. Put

Clean away as much of the external dirt and

actuated directly by the rocker arms.

a teaspoonfull of clean oil into that cylinder

grease as possible before dismantling.

Engine lubrication is by a gear type oil

through its spark plug hole, and repeat the

3 As parts are removed, clean them in a

pump. The pump is mounted beneath the

test.

paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts

crankcase and is driven by a camshaft, as are

10 If the addition of oil temporarily improves

with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult

the distributor and fuel pump.

the compression pressure, this indicates that

to remove, usually requiring a high pressure

Many of the engine component retaining

bore or piston wear is responsible for the

hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.

bolts are of the socket-headed type and

pressure loss. No improvement suggests that

4 Avoid working with the engine or any of the

require the use of Torx type multi-tooth keys

leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head

components directly on a concrete floor, as

or socket bits for removal. These are readily

gasket, may be to blame.

grit presents a real source of trouble.

available from retail outlets and should be

11 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders

5 Wherever possible, work should be carried

obtained if major dismantling or repair work is

is almost certainly due to the head gasket

out with the engine or individual components

to be carried out on the engine.

having blown between them; the presence of

on a strong bench. If the work must be done

coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.

on the floor, cover it with a board or sheets of

12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower

newspaper.

2 Compression test - description

than the others and the engine has a slightly

6 Have plenty of clean, lint-free rags available

and interpretation

rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the

and also some containers or trays to hold

cause.

small items. This will help during reassembly

1 When engine performance is down, or if

13 If the compression reading is unusually

and also prevent possible losses.

misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to

high, the combustion chambers are probably

7 Always obtain a complete set of gaskets if

the ignition or fuel systems, a compression

coated with carbon deposits. If this is the

the engine is being completely dismantled, or

test can provide diagnostic clues as to the

case, the cylinder head should be removed

all those necessary for the individual

engine’s condition. If the test is performed

and decarbonised.

component or assembly being worked on.

regularly, it can give warning of trouble before

14 On completion of the test, refit the spark

Keep the old gaskets with a view to using

any other symptoms become apparent.

plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

them as a pattern to make a replacement if a

2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to

new one is not available.

normal operating temperature, the battery

8 If possible refit nuts, bolts and washers in their

3 Operations possible with the

must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs

locations after removal; this helps to protect the

must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an

engine in the car

threads and avoids confusion or loss.

assistant will also be required.

9 During reassembly thoroughly lubricate all

3 Disable the ignition

system by

The following operations may be carried out

the components, where this is applicable, with

disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from

without having to remove the engine:

engine oil, but avoid contaminating the

the distributor cap and earthing it on the

a) Adjustment of the valve clearances.

gaskets and joint mating faces.

cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar

b) Removal and refitting of cylinder head.

10 Where applicable, the following Sections

wire to make a good connection.

c) Removal and refitting of sump.

describe the removal, refitting and adjustment

4 Fit a compression tester to the No

d) Removal and refitting of oil pump.

of components with the engine in the car. If

cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester

e) Removal and refitting of the timing gear

the engine has been removed from the car,

which screws into the plug thread is best.

components.

the procedures described are the same

5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide

f) Removal and refitting of pistons and

except for the disconnection of hoses, cables

open, and crank the engine on the starter

connecting rods.

and linkages, and the removal of components

motor; after one or two revolutions, the

g) Removal and refitting of the flywheel.

necessary for access, which will already have

compression pressure should build up to a

h) Removal and refitting of the

been done.

maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record

engine/transmission mountings.

the highest reading obtained.

6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,

6 Ancillary components - removal

4 Operations requiring engine

recording the pressure in each.

and refitting

removal

7 All cylinders should produce very similar

pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars

If the engine has been removed from the

The following operations can only be

between any two cylinders indicates a fault.

car for complete dismantling, the following

carried out after removal of the engine:

Note that the compression should build up

externally mounted ancillary components

a) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

quickly in a healthy engine; low compression

should be removed. When the engine has

tappets.

on the first stroke, followed by gradually-

been reassembled these components can be

b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

increasing pressure on successive strokes,

refitted before the engine is installed in the

and main bearings.

indicates worn piston rings. A low

car, as setting up and adjustment is often

c) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

compression reading on the first stroke, which

easier with the engine removed. The removal

rear oil seal.

does not build up during successive strokes,

and refitting sequence need not necessarily

indicates leaking valves or a blown head

follow the order given:

gasket (a cracked head could also be the

5 Engine dismantling and

a) Alternator (Chapter 5A).

cause). Deposits on the undersides of the

reassembly - general information

b) Distributor and spark plugs (Chapters 1

valve heads can also cause low compression.

and 5).

8 Although Vauxhall do not specify exact

1 If the engine has been removed from the

c) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and

compression pressures, as a guide, any

car for major overhaul, or if individual

carburettor (Chapter 4A).

cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be

components have been removed for repair or

d) Fuel pump (Chapter 4A).

considered as less than healthy. Refer to a

renewal, observe the following general hints

e) Water pump and thermostat (Chapter 3).

Vauxhall dealer or other specialist if in doubt

on dismantling and reassembly.

f) Clutch assembly (Chapter 6).

OHV engine 2A•5

7 Valve clearances - adjustment

1 This adjustment should be carried out with

the engine at its normal operating

temperature. If it is being done after overhaul

when the engine is cold, repeat the

adjustment after the car has been driven a few

kilometres when the engine will then be hot.

2 Begin by removing the air cleaner, as

described in Chapter 4A.

3 Mark the spark plug leads to ensure correct

7.4 Removing the breather hose from the

7.7 Ignition timing marks (arrowed) in

refitting and then pull them off the spark

rocker cover

alignment

plugs.

4 Disconnect the engine breather hoses at

valve stem and the rocker arm

(see

8 Disconnect the other heater hose at the

the rocker cover (see illustration).

illustration). Adjust the clearance by turning

cylinder head outlet after slackening the

5 Undo the four bolts securing the rocker

the rocker arm retaining nut using a socket or

retaining clip.

cover to the cylinder head and lift off the

ring spanner until the blade is a stiff sliding fit.

9 Undo the union nut and disconnect the

shaped spreader washers.

11 It is also possible to check and adjust the

brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet

6 Withdraw the rocker cover from the cylinder

clearances with the engine running. This is

manifold.

head. If it is stuck give it a tap with the palm of

done in the same way, but each valve is

10 Note the location of the plug leads to aid

your hand to free it.

checked in turn. It will of course be necessary

refitting and pull them off the spark plugs.

7 Turn the engine by means of the crankshaft

to refit the plug leads and No 1 spark plug if

Disconnect the HT lead at the coil, undo the

pulley bolt, or by engaging top gear and

this method is adopted. To reduce oil splash

distributor cap retaining screws and remove

pulling the car forward, until No 1 piston is

place a piece of cardboard, suitably cut to

the cap and leads.

approaching TDC on the firing stroke. This

shape, between the pushrod side of the

11 Refer to Chapter 4A and disconnect the

can be checked by removing No 1 spark plug

rocker arms and the edge of the cylinder

choke and accelerator cables from the

and feeling for compression with your fingers

head.

carburettor. Detach the distributor vacuum

as the engine is turned, or by removing the

12 After adjustment remove all traces of old

advance pipe.

distributor cap and checking the position of

gasket from the cylinder head mating face

12 Disconnect the fuel hose from the

the rotor arm which should be pointing to the

and renew the rocker cover gasket if it is

carburettor and plug its end after removal.

No 1 spark plug lead segment in the cap. The

cracked or perished.

13 Disconnect the engine breather hoses

ignition timing marks on the pulley and timing

13 Refit the rocker cover and secure with the

from the rocker cover.

cover must be aligned (see illustration).

retaining bolts and shaped spreader washers.

14 Undo the three socket-headed screws

8 With the engine in this position the

14 Refit the spark plug and plug leads,

securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder

following valves can be adjusted - counting

reconnect the engine breather hoses and refit

head. Note the spark plug lead support

from the timing cover end of the engine.

the air cleaner, as described in Chapters 1

brackets fitted to the two end retaining bolts.

1 exhaust

and 4.

15 Lift the inlet manifold complete with

2 inlet

carburettor from the cylinder head and

3 inlet

recover the gasket.

8 Cylinder head - removal and

5 exhaust

16 Undo the four bolts and shaped spreader

9 Now turn the engine crankshaft through

refitting

washers and lift off the rocker cover.

one complete revolution and adjust the

17 Slacken the rocker arm retaining nuts,

following remaining valves:

move the rocker arms to one side and lift out

Removal

4 exhaust

the pushrods (see illustration). Keep the

6 inlet

1 Make sure that the engine is cold before

pushrods in order after removal.

7 inlet

commencing operations to avoid any chance

18 Undo the cylinder head retaining bolts,

8 exhaust

of the head distorting.

half a turn at a time in the reverse sequence to

10 As each clearance is being checked, slide

2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal

that shown in illustration 8.26. Unscrew the

a feeler blade of the appropriate size, as given

3 Drain the cooling system, as described in

bolts fully and remove them. Obtain new bolts

in the Specifications, between the end of the

Chapter 1, and remove the air cleaner, as

for use when refitting.

described in Chapter 4A.

4 From behind the engine, undo the two bolts

securing the exhaust front pipe to the

manifold. Remove the bolts and tension

springs; then separate the pipe joint from the

manifold.

5 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect

the radiator top hose from the thermostat

housing in the water pump.

6 Slacken the alternator mounting and

adjustment arm bolts, move the alternator

towards the engine and slip the drivebelt off

the pulleys.

7 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect

7.10 Checking a valve clearance

the heater hose and radiator bottom hose

8.17 Removing the pushrods

from the water pump.

2A•6 OHV engine

8.24 Fitting a cylinder head gasket

8.26 Cylinder head bolt tightening

8.29 Inlet manifold gasket in position

sequence

19 Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is

gasket, and secure with the four bolts and

6 As they are released and removed, keep

stuck, tap it free with a soft-faced mallet. Do

spreader washers.

the valves in order so that if they are to be

not insert a lever into the gasket joint - you

31 Refit the heater hoses and radiator hoses

refitted they will be replaced in their original

may damage the mating surfaces.

to the outlets on the water pump and cylinder

positions in the cylinder head. A piece of stiff

20 With the cylinder head removed, recover

head.

card with eight holes punched in it is a sure

the gasket.

32 Refit the fuel hose to the carburettor, the

method of keeping the valves in order.

21 If the cylinder head has been removed for

vacuum advance pipe to the distributor and

7 Examine the head of the valves for pitting

decarbonising or for attention to the valves or

the breather hoses to the rocker cover.

and burning, especially the heads of the

springs, reference should be made to

33 Refit and adjust the accelerator and choke

exhaust valves. The valve seating should be

Sections 9 and 10.

cables, as described in Chapter 4A.

examined at the same time. If the pitting on

34 Refit the brake servo vacuum hose to the

valve and seat is very slight, the marks can be

Refitting

inlet manifold.

removed by grinding the seats and valves

22 Before refitting the cylinder head, ensure

35 Refit the distributor cap and reconnect the

together with coarse, and then fine, valve

that the cylinder block and head mating faces

plug leads and coil lead.

grinding paste.

are spotlessly clean and dry with all traces of

36 Slip the drivebelt over the pulleys and

8 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve

old gasket removed. Use a scraper and wire

adjust its tension, as described in Chapter 1.

seats it will be necessary to recut them and fit

brush to do this, but take care to cover the

37 Reconnect the exhaust front pipe to the

new valves. The latter job should be entrusted

water passages and other openings with

manifold and tighten the bolts to compress

to the local agent or engineering works. In

masking tape or rag to prevent dirt and

the tension springs.

practice it is very seldom that the seats are so

carbon falling in. Remove all traces of oil and

38 Refill the cooling system as described in

badly worn. Normally it is the valve that is too

water from the bolt holes, otherwise hydraulic

Chapter 1, refit the air cleaner as described in

badly worn for refitting, and the owner can

pressure created by the bolts being screwed

Chapter 4A and connect the battery negative

easily purchase a new set of valves and

in could crack the block or give inaccurate

terminal.

match them to the seats by valve grinding.

torque settings. Ensure that the bolt threads

9 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.

are clean and dry.

Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste

23 When all is clean, screw two guide studs

9 Cylinder head - overhaul

on the seat face and apply a suction grinder

into the cylinder block. These can be made

tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary

from the two old cylinder head bolts by

motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting

cutting off their heads and sawing a

1 Unscrew the rocker arm retaining

the valve occasionally to redistribute the

screwdriver slot in their ends.

/adjustment nuts and withdraw the rocker

grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface

24 Locate a new gasket in position on the

arms from the studs. Keep them in order as

is produced on both the valve seat and the

block as shown (see illustration). Do not use

they are removed.

valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the

any jointing compound on the gasket

2 To remove the valves, the springs will have

process with fine carborundum paste, lifting

25 Lower the cylinder head carefully into

to be compressed to allow the split collets to

and turning the valve to redistribute the paste

position. Screw in new bolts finger tight,

be released from the groove in the upper

as before. A light spring placed under the

remove the guide pins and screw in the two

section of the valve stems. A valve spring

valve head will greatly ease this operation.

remaining bolts.

compressor will therefore be necessary.

When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey

26 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the

3 Locate the compressor to enable the forked

matt finish is produced, on both valve and

order shown (see illustration) to the first

end of the arm to be positioned over the valve

valve seat faces, the grinding operation is

stage specified torque. Now tighten the bolts

spring collar whilst the screw part of the

complete.

through three further stages as given in the

clamp is situated squarely on the face of the

10 Scrape away all carbon from the valve

Specifications. No further retightening will be

valve.

head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away

required.

4 Screw up the clamp to compress the spring

every trace of grinding compound; take great

27 Refit the pushrods, making quite sure that

and release the pressure of the collar acting

care to leave none in the ports or in the valve

each one is located in its tappet.

on the collets. If the collar sticks, support the

guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with

28 Reposition the rocker arms over the ends

head and clamp frame and give the end of the

a paraffin-soaked rag, then with a clean rag

of the pushrods and then adjust the valve

clamp a light tap with a hammer to help

and finally, if an air line is available, blow the

clearances, as described in Section 7.

release it.

valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.

29 Place a new gasket in position and refit

5 Extract the two collets and then release the

11 Check that all valve springs are intact. If

the inlet manifold and carburettor

(see

tension of the clamp. Remove the clamp,

any one is broken, all should be renewed.

illustration).

withdraw the collar and spring and extract the

Check the free height of the springs against

30 Refit the rocker cover, using a new

valve. Remove the valve stem seals and the

new ones. If some springs are not within

exhaust valve rotators.

OHV engine 2A•7

9.15 Fitting a valve to its guide

9.17 Fitting an exhaust valve rotator

9.18a Fit the valve spring . . .

specification, replace them all. Springs suffer

Lubricate the sleeve and push on the seal,

from fatigue and it is a good idea to renew

ring downwards. Recover the sleeve.

them even if they look serviceable.

17 On exhaust valves, fit the valve rotator

12 Check that the oil supply holes in the

(see illustration).

rocker arm studs are clear.

18 Fit the valve spring and collar, with the

13 The cylinder head can be checked for

recessed part of the collar inside the spring

warping either by placing it on a piece of plate

(see illustrations).

glass or using a straight-edge and feeler

19 Place the end of the spring compressor

blades. Slight distortion may be corrected by

over the collar and valve stem and, with the

having the head machined to remove metal

screw head of the compressor over the valve

from the mating face.

head, screw up the clamp until the spring is

14 Valve guide renewal is necessary if the

compressed past the groove in the valve

valve stem clearance in the guide exceeds

stem. Then put a little grease round the

that specified. Renewal, or reaming to accept

groove.

9.18b . . . followed by the spring collar

oversize valves, should be left to a GM dealer.

20 Place the two halves of the split collar

15 Commence reassembly by lubricating a

(collets) into the groove with the narrow ends

valve stem and inserting it into its guide (see

pointing towards the spring (see illustration).

bearing surfaces of the interior of the arm and

illustration).

The grease will hold them in the groove.

the ball face, are clean and lubricated with

16 Fit the valve stem oil seal, using the

21 Release the clamp slowly and carefully,

engine oil.

protective sleeve supplied with the new seals

making sure that the collets are not dislodged

25 Oil the stud thread and fit the nut with the

over the valve stem to avoid damage.

from the groove. When the clamp is fully

self-locking

collar

uppermost

(see

released the top edges of the collets should

illustration). Screw it down until the locking

be in line with each other. Give the top of each

collar is on the stud.

spring a smart tap with a soft-faced mallet

when assembly is complete to ensure that the

10 Cylinder head and pistons

collets are properly settled.

- decarbonising

22 Repeat the above procedure for the other

7 valves.

1 This can be carried out with the engine

23 The rocker gear can be refitted with the

either in or out of the car. With the cylinder

head either on or off the engine. The only part

head removed, carefully use a wire brush and

of the procedure to watch is that the rocker

blunt scraper to clean all traces of carbon

nuts must not be screwed down too far or it

deposits from the combustion spaces and the

will not be possible to refit the pushrods.

ports. The valve head stems and valve guides

24 Next put the rocker arm over the stud

should also be freed from any carbon

followed by the pivot ball (see illustrations).

deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and

9.20 Compress the spring and fit the

Make sure that the spring fits snugly round

ports down with petrol and scrape the

collets

the rocker arm centre section and that the two

cylinder head surface free of any foreign

9.24a Fitting a rocker arm . . .

9.24b . . . and its pivot ball

9.25 Fit the nut with the self-locking collar

uppermost

2A•8 OHV engine

11.7 Insert the cork strips in the main

11.9 Refitting the sump

12.2a Undo the two socket-headed bolts

bearing cap grooves

(arrowed) . . .

matter with the side of a steel rule or a similar

9 Refit the sump (see illustration) and secure

article.

it in place with the retaining bolts which

11 Sump - removal and refitting

2 If the engine is installed in the car, clean the

should be progressively tightened in a

pistons and the top of the cylinder bores. If

diagonal sequence.

the pistons are still in the block, then it is

10 Refit the flywheel cover plate, lower the

essential that great care is taken to ensure

Removal

car and fill the engine with oil as described in

that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as

Chapter 1.

1 Jack up the front of the car and securely

this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause

support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and

damage to the piston and rings. To ensure

Vehicle Support”).

12 Oil pump - removal and

this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft

2 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container

refitting

so that two of the pistons are at the top of

(Section 2) and refit the plug after draining.

their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores

3 Undo the bolts securing the flywheel cover

or seal them off with paper and masking tape.

plate and side support braces and remove the

Removal

The waterways should also be covered with

cover.

1 Remove the sump. as described in Section

small pieces of masking tape to prevent

4 Undo the retaining bolts and lift away the

11.

particles of carbon entering the cooling

sump. It will probably be necessary to tap the

2 Undo the two socket-headed bolts and

system and damaging the water pump.

sump from side to side with a hide or plastic

withdraw the pump from the crankcase (see

3 Press a little grease into the gap between

mallet to release the joint face.

illustrations).

the cylinder walls and the two pistons which

are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper

Refitting

carefully scrape away the carbon from the

5 Thoroughly clean the sump in paraffin or a

3 Refitting the pump is the reverse sequence

piston crown, taking great care not to scratch

suitable solvent and remove all traces of

to removal, but engage the pump shaft in the

the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon

external dirt and internal sludge. Scrape away

distributor driveshaft slot, and tighten the

from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall.

all traces of old gasket from the sump and

retaining bolts to the specified torque.

When all carbon has been removed, scrape

crankcase faces and ensure that they are

away the grease which will now be

clean and dry. Also clean the bearing cap

contaminated with carbon particles, taking

grooves.

13 Oil pump - overhaul

care not to press any into the bores. To assist

6 Apply a thick bead of jointing compound to

prevention of carbon build-up the piston

the crankcase flange and at the joints of the

crown can be polished with a metal polish.

front and rear main bearing caps

1 Remove the oil pump, as described in

Remove the rags or masking tape from the

7 Position the cork side gaskets on the

Section 12.

other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so

crankcase flanges and then insert the cork

2 Undo the two pump cover bolts and lift off

that the two pistons which were at the bottom

and sealing strips to the main bearing cap

the cover and oil pick-up tube. Remove the

are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape

grooves (see illustration).

cover gasket.

in the cylinders which have been

8 Apply a further bead of jointing compound

3 Take out the driving gear and driven gear

decarbonised and proceed as just described.

to the gasket faces and to the gasket joints at

(see illustrations).

Decarbonising is now complete.

the bearing caps.

12.2b . . . and remove the oil pump

13.3a Removing the oil pump driving

13.3b . . . and the driven gear

gear . . .

OHV engine 2A•9

13.4 Oil pump and pressure relief valve

13.8 Check the pump gear teeth backlash

14.2 Clutch access plate

components

4 Undo the large nut on the side of the

relief valve assembly and assemble the pump

towards the engine and slip the drivebelt off

housing and remove the sealing washer and

gears. Fill the pump with oil and refit the cover

the pulleys.

oil pressure relief spring and ball valve (see

using a new gasket. Tighten the cover

4 Lock the flywheel by wedging a screwdriver

illustration).

securing bolts and refit the pump.

between the ring gear teeth and the side of

5 Clean all the parts in paraffin and dry with a

the bellhousing.

lint-free cloth.

5 Using a socket or spanner undo the

14 Timing gear components -

6 Inspect the pump gears, housing, cover

crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and withdraw

removal and refitting

and relief valve ball for scoring, scuff marks or

the pulley.

other signs of wear and renew the pump if

6 Undo the bolts securing the timing cover to

these signs are evident.

the front of the engine and lift off the cover.

Removal

7 If the pump condition is satisfactory, check

7 Withdraw the oil slinger from the

1 For greater access remove the front

the pump clearances as follows.

crankshaft, noting which way round it is fitted

right-hand wheel trim and slacken the wheel

8 Using a feeler blade, check the backlash

(see illustration).

bolts. Jack up the front of the car, support it

between the gear teeth. Place a straight-edge

8 Temporarily refit the pulley and turn the

securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and

across the top edge of the gears and check

crankshaft until the crankshaft sprocket

Vehicle Support”) and remove the roadwheel.

their projection. If any of the clearances

keyway is uppermost and the timing marks on

2 Undo the four retaining bolts and remove

exceeds the tolerances given in the

the two sprockets are in alignment

(see

the clutch access plate at the base of the

Specifications, renew the pump

(see

illustration). Remove the pulley.

bellhousing (see illustration).

illustration).

9 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove

3 Slacken the alternator mounting and

9 If the clearances are satisfactory, refit the

the timing chain tensioner. One of two types

adjustment arm bolts, move the alternators

of tensioner may be fitted: simple

spring-operated, or oil pressure assisted. With

the oil pressure assisted type, restrain the

thrust pad to prevent premature ejection of

the tensioner components (see illustration).

10 Undo the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt

and remove the bolt and washer

(see

illustration). Place a screwdriver through one

of the sprocket holes and in contact with the

camshaft retaining plate behind the sprocket

to stop it turning as the bolt is undone.

11 Withdraw the camshaft sprocket and

crankshaft sprocket from their respective

locations, using a screwdriver as a lever if

14.7 Crankshaft oil slinger

14.8 Crankshaft sprocket keyway (A) and

necessary, then remove the sprockets

sprocket timing marks (B)

complete with chain (see illustration).

12 Thoroughly clean all the components in

14.9 Timing chain tensioner - oil pressure

14.10 Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt

14.11 Removing the sprockets and timing

assisted type

and washer

chain

2A•10 OHV engine

14.13 Using a drift to remove the timing

14.14a Fit the new seal to the holder

14.14b . . . and refit the holder and seal to

cover oil seal

the timing cover

paraffin and dry them with a lint-free cloth.

camshaft and will have its timing mark in

Remove all traces of old gasket from the faces

alignment with the one on the crankshaft

15 Pistons and connecting rods

of the timing cover and engine.

sprocket. Adjust the camshaft sprocket as

- removal and refitting

necessary within the chain loop to achieve

Refitting

this.

13 To renew the oil seal in the timing cover,

17 Fit the sprocket to the camshaft, screw in

Removal

place the cover outer face downwards over

the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt while

1 Remove the cylinder head, the sump and

two blocks of wood and drive out the old seal

holding the sprocket with a screwdriver, as

the oil pump, as described in earlier Sections.

and holder using a hammer and drift (see

was done during removal.

2 The connecting rod big-end caps and rods

illustration).

18 Refit the timing chain tensioner. With the

may not be marked numerically for location

14 Place the new seal (which must have been

oil pressure assisted type, compress the

when new and therefore they must be

soaked in engine oil for 24 hours) in the holder

thrust pad by hand, secure the tensioner and

inspected for identification marks before

and then tap the holder into the cover using a

release the thrust pad.

dismantling. If no marks are evident, punch,

block of wood (see illustrations). The seal

19 To refit the spring-operated chain

scribe or file identification marks on the caps

holder must be fitted flush with the outer edge

tensioner, place the tensioner in position and

and rods starting with No 1 at the timing cover

of the timing cover.

fit the lower retaining bolt finger tight. Move

end. Mark them all on the same side to avoid

15 Commence reassembly by engaging the

the spring blade away from the tensioner

confusion during reassembly. If they have

chain around the crankshaft sprocket.

body with a screwdriver, pivot the tensioner

already been marked then this will not, of

16 Engage the camshaft sprocket within the

into position and fit the upper retaining bolt,

course, be necessary.

loop of the chain so that it can be fitted to the

then release the springs and tighten both

3 Undo and remove the big-end cap retaining

bolts and keep them in order for correct

bolts (see illustrations).

refitting.

20 Position the oil slinger over the crankshaft

4 Detach the big-end bearing caps. If stuck,

and place a new gasket on the front of the

lightly tap them free using a soft-faced mallet.

engine

(see illustration). Apply jointing

5 To remove the bearing shells for inspection

compound to both sides of the gasket.

and/or renewal, press the bearing end

21 Refit the cover and the retaining bolts, but

opposite the groove in both connecting rod

only screw the bolts in two or three turns (see

and bearing cap and the shells will slide out.

illustration). Position the crankshaft pulley on

Again keep the shells in order of removal.

the crankshaft to centralise the cover and

6 The piston rod assemblies are removed

then tighten the bolts progressively in a

through the top of each cylinder bore, being

diagonal sequence.

pushed upwards from underneath using a

22 Refit the pulley retaining bolt and tighten

wooden hammer handle which is pushed

to the specified torque.

against the connecting rod. Rotate the

23 Refit the drivebelt and adjust its tension,

crankshaft accordingly to gain suitable access

14.19a Fit the tensioner lower bolt . . .

as described in Chapter 1.

to each rod assembly. Note that, if there is a

24 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car to

pronounced wear ridge at the top of the

the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts.

14.19b . . . then push back the spring,

14.20 Fitting a new timing cover gasket

14.21 Refitting the timing cover

pivot the tensioner and fit the upper bolt

OHV engine 2A•11

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse sequence to

removal. Tighten the flywheel retaining bolts

to the specified torque.

17 Engine/transmission

mountings - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 The engine/transmission assembly is

15.11 Offering the piston to the bore

15.12 Piston ring compressor fitted

supported in a triangular arrangement of three

mountings: one on the right-hand side

supporting the engine, one on the left-hand

cylinder bore, there is a risk of piston ring

assembly to its bore, making sure that it is the

side supporting the transmission and a third

damage unless the ridge is first removed

right way round (see illustration).

centrally sited mount supporting the complete

using a ridge reaming tool, or scraper.

12 Oil the piston and rings, then fit a piston

assembly at the rear.

7 The pistons should not be separated from

ring compressor to the piston and tighten it to

2 To remove either of the front mountings

their connecting rods unless they or the

compress the rings (see illustration).

position a jack under the engine or

gudgeon pins are to be renewed. The

13 Gently tap the piston through the ring

transmission adjacent to the mounting and

gudgeon pin is a press fit and special tools

compressor and into its bore using the

just take the weight of the engine or

are required for removing and installation.

hammer handle. Guide the connecting rod

transmission.

This task should therefore be entrusted to

near to its crankshaft journal and then fit the

3 Undo the bolts securing the support

your local agent or automotive machine shop.

bearing shell upper half.

bracket to the engine or gearbox and the bolts

8 If for any reason the pistons are separated

14 Ease the connecting rod onto the journal,

securing the mounting to the bodyframe. Lift

from their rods, mark them numerically on the

fit the lower shell to the cap and fit the cap to

off the bracket and remove the relevant

same side as the rod markings to ensure

the rod (see illustration). Refit and tighten the

mounting.

correct refitting.

retaining bolts to the specified torque (see

4 To remove the rear mounting jack up the

illustration).

Refitting

front of the car and support it on axle stands

15 Repeat the sequence described for the

9 If new pistons or piston rings are being

remaining three piston/ connecting rods.

(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

fitted to the old bores, it is essential to

16 Refit the cylinder head, oil pump and

5 Support the engine/transmission assembly

roughen the cylinder bore walls slightly with

sump, as described in earlier Sections.

under the differential cover plate using a jack

medium grit emery cloth to allow the rings to

and interposed block of wood.

bed in. Do this with a circular up-and-down

6 Undo the two bolts securing the mounting

16 Flywheel - removal and

to the underbody and the through-bolt and

action to produce a criss-cross pattern on the

cylinder bore walls. Make sure that the

refitting

nut securing the mounting to the support

bearing journal on the crankshaft is protected

bracket. Slide the mounting rearwards out of

with masking tape during this operation.

the bracket and remove it from under the car.

Removal

Thoroughly clean the bores with a

Refitting

paraffin-soaked rag and dry with a lint-free

1 Remove the clutch assembly and the

release bearing, as described in Chapter 6.

7 In all cases refitting is the reverse sequence

cloth Remove the tape from the crankshaft

2 Undo the three bolts and remove the

to removal, but tighten the retaining bolts to

journals and clean them also.

release bearing guide tube.

the specified torque. Where thread locking

10 Commence reassembly by lubricating the

3 Mark the position of the flywheel in relation

compound was evident on the old bolts, clean

cylinder bores and crankshaft journals.

to the crankshaft mounting flange or pulley.

out the bolt holes using a tap (or an old bolt

11 Space the piston rings around the pistons

4 Wedge a screwdriver between the ring gear

with a slot cut in its threads); clean the bolt

so that their end gaps are 180º apart. In the

teeth and transmission casing and then undo

threads and apply thread locking compound.

case of the oil scraper ring, offset the gaps in

the socket-headed retaining bolts using a

8 If there is an arrow stamped on the rear

the upper and lower rails by 25 to 50 mm to

multi-tooth key or socket bit (see illustration).

mounting, it should point to the front when the

right and left of the end gap of the central

Remove the bolts and withdraw the flywheel.

mounting is fitted.

section. Offer a piston/connecting rod

15.14a Fitting a big-end bearing cap

15.14b Tightening a big-end bearing cap

16.4 Flywheel retaining bolts are

bolt

socket-headed

2A•12 OHV engine

18.4a Camshaft retaining plate bolts

18.4b Removing the engine front plate

18.5 Removing the camshaft

(arrowed)

9 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals

into position. Make sure that the seal is fully

18 Camshaft and tappets -

and carefully insert the camshaft.

entered into its location so that its outer face

10 Place a new gasket in position and then

is flush with the edge of the bearing cap and

removal and refitting

locate the front plate, patterned side outward,

cylinder block.

over the gasket (see illustration). Temporarily

4 Apply jointing compound to the contact

Removal

refit two or three of the timing cover bolts to

edges of the main bearing cap and then

act as alignment guides, but only tighten them

tighten the retaining bolts to the specified

1 Remove the engine from the car, as

described in Section 23, and then remove the

finger tight.

torque.

11 Now position the camshaft retaining plate

5 Refit the sump and flywheel, as described

sump and timing gear components, as

described in earlier Sections.

with its forks located into the groove in the

earlier, and then refit the engine to the car, as

boss on the end of the camshaft. Note that

described in Section 23.

2 If the cylinder head is still in place, slacken

the rocker arm nuts, move the rocker arms to

the fork section faces upwards. Secure the

retaining plate with the two bolts.

one side and lift out the pushrods, keeping

20 Crankshaft and main bearings

them in order.

12 Check that the camshaft is free to turn.

- removal and refitting

13 Refit the timing gear components and the

3 Invert the engine or, if the cylinder head is

still in place, lay the engine on its side.

sump, as described in earlier Sections. If the

cylinder head is in place, refit the pushrods

4 Undo the two bolts securing the camshaft

Removal

retaining plate in position and lift off the plate

and adjust the valve clearances.

1 With the engine removed from the car, as

14 Refit the engine to the car.

(see illustrations). The engine front plate

described in Section

23, and all the

should also be removed as all the bolts

components removed from it, as described in

securing it in place have now been undone.

19 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

earlier Sections, the crankshaft can be

5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the

removal and refitting

removed as follows.

cylinder block, taking care not to scratch the

2 Invert the engine. The three main bearing

bearing journals with the sharp edges of the

caps are all different so note their locations.

cam lobes (see illustration).

Removal

3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the

6 From within the crankcase withdraw each

1 Remove the engine from the car, as

bearing caps.

tappet from its bore and keep them in order

described in Section 23, and then remove the

4 Lift out the crankshaft and remove the rear

for refitting (see illustration).

sump and flywheel, as described in earlier

oil seal from the crankshaft boss.

Refitting

Sections.

5 Remove the main bearing shells from the

2 Slacken the rear main bearing cap bolts

crankcase and bearing caps and identify them

7 Scrape away all traces of old gasket from

slightly and withdraw the oil seal from its

for location.

the engine front plate and cylinder block.

location.

Make sure that both mating faces are clean

Refitting

and dry.

Refitting

6 Commence reassembly as follows.

8 Lubricate the tappet bores in the crankcase

3 Lubricate the lips of a new oil seal and

7 Ensure that the crankcase and crankshaft

and insert each tappet into its respective

carefully ease it over the crankshaft boss and

are thoroughly clean and that all oilways are

bore.

clear. If possible blow the drillings out with

compressed air, and then inject clean engine

oil through them to ensure that they are clear.

8 Avoid using old bearing shells; wipe the

shell seats in the crankcase clean and then fit

the upper halves of the main bearing shells

into their seats.

9 Note that there is a tab on the back of each

bearing which engages with a groove in the

shell seating (in both crankcase and bearing

cap) (see illustration).

10 Wipe away all traces of protective grease

on the new shells.

11 The central bearing shell also takes up the

18.6 Removing a tappet

18.10 Fitting a new front plate gasket

crankshaft endfloat. Note that the half-shells

fitted to the cylinder block all have oil duct

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