Content .. 1 2 ..

Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual - part 1

1•1

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Air cleaner filter element renewal

Handbrake adjustment

Automatic transmission fluid level check

Headlamp aim check

Automatic transmission fluid renewal

Hinge and lock lubrication

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal

Hose and fluid leak check

Battery check

Idle speed and mixture adjustments

Brake fluid renewal

Ignition system check

Brake pad, caliper and disc check

Introduction

Carburettor fuel inlet filter cleaning

Manual transmission oil level check

Clutch adjustment check

Rear brake shoe, wheel cylinder and drum check

Coolant renewal

Rear wheel bearing adjustment

Driveshaft CV joint and gaiter check

Road test

Electrical system check

Roadwheel bolt tightness check

Engine oil and filter renewal

Spark plug renewal

Exhaust system check

Tyre checks

Fluid level checks

Vauxhall Astra/Belmont maintenance schedule

Fuel filter renewal - fuel injection models

Wiper blade check

Fuel pump filter cleaning - carburettor models

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult, suitable

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

for competent DIY

experienced DIY

suitable for expert DIY

experience

some experience

mechanic

or professional

1 Vauxhall Astra/Belmont maintenance schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the

vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or

assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.

driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,

These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the

more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-

in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these

authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory

procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because

warranty.

it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your

1•2

Maintenance schedule

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or

m See Weekly checks

12 months, whichever comes first

In addition to all the items listed previously, carry out the following:

m Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 24)

m Renew the fuel filter (fuel injection models) (Section 25)

m Clean the carburettor fuel inlet filter (Section 26)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or

m Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 27)

6 months, whichever comes first

m Check the clutch adjustment (Section 28)

m Renew the engine oil and filter - early (pre-1987) models

m Check the condition of the rear brake shoes (renew if

(Section 6)

necessary), wheel cylinders and drums (Section 29)

m Renew the brake fluid (Section 30)

m Check the headlamp alignment (Section 31)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or

12 months, whichever comes first

Every 2 years

m Renew the engine oil and filter - later (1987-on) models

(regardless of mileage)

(Section 6)

In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the

m Renew the spark plugs (Section 7)

following:

m Check and adjust the valve clearances - 1.2 litre models

m Renew the coolant (Section 32)

(Chapter 2A)

m Check all underbonnet and underbody components, pipes and

hoses for leaks (Section 8)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or

m Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt, and renew if

necessary (Section 9)

4 years, whichever comes first

m Check the ignition system components and renew the contact

In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the

following:

breaker points (Section 10)

m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 33)

m Check idle speed and mixture adjustments (Section 11)

m Renew the camshaft toothed belt -

m Clean the fuel pump filter (carburettor models) (Section 12)

1.3, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve engines (Chapter 2B),

m Check the throttle cable adjustment (Chapter 4A or 4B)

2.0 litre 16-valve engines (Chapter 2C)

m Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 13)

m Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the wipers and

washers (Section 14)

m Check the condition of the wiper blades (Section 15)

m Check the tightness of the roadwheel bolts (Section 16)

Every 54 000 miles (90 000 km) or

m Check the condition of the front, and rear (where fitted) brake

3 years, whichever comes first

pads (renew if necessary), and the calipers and discs

In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the

(Section 17)

following:

m Check the rear wheel bearings adjustment (Section 18)

m Renew the braking system seals and hose (Chapter 9)

m Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 19)

m Check the driveshaft CV joints and gaiters for condition

(Section 20)

m Lubricate locks and hinges (Section 21)

m Check the exhaust system for condition and security

(Section 22)

m Road test the vehicle (Section 23)

Maintenance - component location 1•3

Underbonnet view of an early 1.6 litre model (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1 Wiper motor

11 Radiator cooling fan

21 Fuel pump

2 Heater blower motor

12 Distributor cover

22 Alternator

3 Heater blower motor resistor

13 Engine oil filler

23 Accelerator cable

4 Windscreen washer tube

14 Bonnet catch

24 Carburettor

5 Screen washer reservoir

15 Radiator

25 Choke cable

6 Suspension turrets

16 VIN plate

26 Servo non-return valve

7 Coolant expansion tank

17 Engine breather

27 Steering rack bellows

8 Ignition coil

18 Air cleaner hot air pick-up

28 Air cleaner breather hose

9 Battery

19 Thermostat housing

29 Brake fluid reservoir

10 Coolant hose

20 Fuel hoses

30 Brake servo

1•4

Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of an early 1.8 litre model

1 Screen washer reservoir

11 Radiator fan

21 Breather hose

2 Headlamp washer filler cap

12 Distributor

22 Throttle valve housing

3 Headlamp washer relay and fuse

13 Engine oil filler

23 Fuel rail

4 Suspension turrets

14 Bonnet catch

24 Fuel pressure regulator

5 Coolant expansion tank filler

15 Radiator

25 Servo non return valve

6 Control relay (fuel injection system)

16 VIN plate

26 Steering rack bellows

7 Ignition coil

17 Engine breather

27 Accelerator cable

8 Horn

18 Thermostat housing

28 Brake fluid reservoir

9 Battery

19 Air cleaner

29 Brake servo

10 Coolant hose

20 Airflow meter

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre 16-valve model

1 Radiator top hose

10 Engine oil filler cap

18 Fuel injection control relay

2 Air cleaner

11 Pre-volume chamber

19 Ignition coil

3 Suspension turrets

12 Brake servo non-return valve

20 Battery

4 Coolant filler cap

13 Power steering hoses

21 Power steering fluid reservoir

5 Brake fluid reservoir

14 Windscreen washer reservoir

22 Distributor

6 Air mass meter

15 Headlamp washer relay

23 Radiator

7 Fuel pressure regulator

16 ABS hydraulic unit

24 Vehicle identification plate

8 Breather hoses

17 ABS surge arrester relay

25 Horn

9 Throttle cable

1•6

Maintenance - component location

Front underbody view of a 1.8 litre model - other models similar

1 Control arm rear bush

8 Radiator

15 Steering balljoint attachment

2 Control arm

9 Exhaust downpipes

16 Engine/transmission rear mounting

3 Anti-roll bar link

10 Sump drain plug

17 Gearchange tube

4 Driveshaft damper weight

11 Radiator fan

18 Exhaust pipe

5 Engine oil filter

12 Gearbox sump

19 Brake pipe

6 Oil cooler hose

13 Driveshaft bellows

20 Brake and fuel pipes

7 Air induction trunking

14 Brake hose

Maintenance - introduction 1•7

Rear underbody view of a 1.8 litre model -

other models similar

1 Centre silencer

2 Handbrake adjuster

3 Handbrake cables

4 Fuel tank

5 Brake pipe

6 Brake and fuel pipes

7 Brake hoses

8 Axle beam

9 Axle mountings

10 Spring

11 Shock absorber mounting

12 Fuel filler pipe

13 Fuel gauge sender/fuel tank outlet

14 Fuel tank breather

15 Fuel filter*

16 Fuel pressure regulator*

17 Fuel pump*

18 Towing eye

19 Rear silencer

20 Rear brake pipes

*Fuel injection models only

items but not others at the specified service

levels and high-wear items, as suggested

intervals, will not produce the same results.

throughout this manual, the engine will be

2 Introduction

As you service your vehicle, you will

kept in relatively good running condition, and

discover that many of the procedures can -

the need for additional work will be minimised.

and should - be grouped together, because of

It is possible that there will be times when

General information

the particular procedure being performed, or

the engine is running poorly due to the lack of

because of the close proximity of two

regular maintenance. This is even more likely

This Chapter is designed to help the home

otherwise-unrelated components to one

if a used vehicle, which has not received

mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,

another. For example, if the vehicle is raised

regular and frequent maintenance checks, is

economy, long life and peak performance.

for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected

purchased. In such cases, additional work

The Chapter contains a master

at the same time as the suspension and

may need to be carried out, outside of the

maintenance schedule, followed by sections

steering components.

regular maintenance intervals.

dealing specifically with each task on the

The first step in this maintenance

If engine wear is suspected, a compression

schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,

programme is to prepare yourself before the

test

(Chapter

2) will provide valuable

component renewal and other helpful items

actual work begins. Read through all the

information regarding the overall performance

are included. Refer to the accompanying

sections relevant to the work to be carried

of the main internal components. Such a test

illustrations of the engine compartment and

out, then make a list and gather together all

can be used as a basis to decide on the

the underside of the vehicle for the locations

the parts and tools required. If a problem is

extent of the work to be carried out. If for

of the various components.

encountered, seek advice from a parts

example a compression test indicates serious

Servicing of your vehicle in accordance with

specialist, or a dealer service department.

internal

engine

wear,

conventional

the mileage/time maintenance schedule and

maintenance as described in this Chapter will

the following sections will provide a planned

Intensive maintenance

not greatly improve the performance of the

maintenance programme, which should result

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

engine, and may prove a waste of time and

in a long and reliable service life. This is a

routine maintenance schedule is followed

money, unless extensive overhaul work

comprehensive plan, so maintaining some

closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid

(Chapter 2) is carried out first.

1•8

Maintenance procedures

The following series of operations are those

d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7).

Secondary operations

most often required to improve the

e) Inspect the ignition system components

All items listed under “Primary operations”,

performance of a generally poor-running

(Section 10).

engine:

plus the following:

f)| Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 10).

Primary operations

g) Check the condition of the air filter, and

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).

renew if necessary (Section 24).

b) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A or 4B).

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery

h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

(Section 4).

c) Renew the air filter (Section 24).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids

check for fluid leaks (Section 8).

d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 3).

If the above operations do not prove fully

c) Check the condition and tension of the

effective, carry out the following secondary

(Section 10).

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

operations:

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 10).

Every 250 miles or weekly

3 Fluid level checks

4 Battery check

5 Tyre checks

See “Weekly checks”

Every 9000 miles

onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on

and renew it if it shows signs of scoring or

axle stands

(see

“Jacking and Vehicle

other damage which may prevent an oil-tight

6 Engine oil and filter renewal

Support”). Whichever method is chosen,

seal. Clean the area around the drain plug

make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if

opening, and refit the plug complete with the

it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the

washer. Tighten the plug securely, preferably to

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most

lowest point. The drain plug is located at the

the specified torque, using a torque wrench.

important

preventative

maintenance

rear of the sump.

7 The oil filter is located at the right-hand end

procedures which can be undertaken by the

3 Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft

of the engine.

DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes

cover (twist it through a quarter-turn anti-

8 Move the container into position under the

diluted and contaminated, which leads to

clockwise and withdraw it).

oil filter.

premature engine wear.

4 Using a spanner, or preferably a socket and

9 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken the

2 Before starting this procedure, gather

bar, slacken the drain plug about half a turn

filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest

together all the necessary tools and materials.

(see illustration). Position the draining

of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil

Also make sure that you have plenty of clean

rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any

container under the drain plug, then remove

from the old filter into the container.

spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,

the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the

10 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and

as it will drain more easily, and more built-up

plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it

sludge from the filter sealing area on the

sludge will be removed with it. Take care not

by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug

engine. Check the old filter to make sure that

to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of

releases from the threads, move it away

the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the

the engine when working under the vehicle.

sharply, so that the stream of oil from the sump

engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to

runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

11 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to

protect yourself from possible skin irritants

5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting

the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw

and other harmful contaminants in used

that it may be necessary to reposition the

the filter into position on the engine. Tighten the

engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves

container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.

filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.

when carrying out this work. Access to the

6 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain

12 Remove the old oil and all tools from

underside of the vehicle will be greatly

plug and the sealing washer with a clean rag.

under the vehicle then, if applicable, lower the

improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven

Examine the condition of the sealing washer,

vehicle to the ground.

13 Fill the engine through the filler hole in the

camshaft cover, using the correct grade and

type of oil (refer to Section 3 for details of

topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity

of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil

to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a

small quantity at a time, until the level is up to

the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding a

further 1.0 litre (approx.) will bring the level up

to the upper mark on the dipstick.

14 Start the engine and run it for a few

minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil

filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that

6.4 Removing the sump drain plug

6.9 Using an oil filter removal tool to

there may be a delay of a few seconds before

unscrew the oil filter

the low oil pressure warning light goes out when

Every 9000 miles 1•9

the engine is first started, as the oil circulates

through the new oil filter and the engine oil

galleries before the pressure builds up.

15 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutes

for the oil to settle in the sump once more.

With the new oil circulated and the filter now

completely full, recheck the level on the

dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with

reference to “General repair procedures”.

Note: It is

antisocial and

7.5 Removing a spark plug - 1.6 litre

7.10a Measuring a spark plug electrode

illegal to dump

engine shown

gap using a feeler blade

oil down the

drain. To find

4 It is advisable to remove any dirt from the

10 To set the spark plug gap, measure the

the location of

spark plug recesses using a clean brush,

gap between the electrodes with a feeler

your local oil

vacuum cleaner or compressed air, before

blade, and then bend open, or close, the outer

recycling bank,

removing the plugs, to prevent the dirt

plug electrode until the correct gap is

dropping into the cylinders.

achieved

(see illustrations). The centre

call this

5 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug

electrode should never be bent, as this may

number free.

spanner, a suitable box spanner, or a deep

crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if

socket and extension bar (see illustration).

nothing worse.

Keep the socket in alignment with the spark

11 Special spark plug electrode gap

plugs, otherwise if it is forcibly moved to either

adjusting tools are available from most motor

7 Spark plug renewal

side, the porcelain top of the spark plug may

accessory shops (see illustration).

be broken off. As each plug is removed,

12 Before fitting the new spark plugs, check

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is

examine it as follows.

that the threaded connector sleeves on the

vital for the correct running and efficiency of

6 Examination of the spark plugs will give a

top of the plug are tight, and that the plug

the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted

good indication of the condition of the engine.

exterior surfaces and threads are clean.

are appropriate for the engine, the suitable

If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean

13 Screw in the spark plugs by hand where

type being specified at the end of this

and white, with no deposits, this is indicative

possible, then tighten them to the specified

Chapter. If the correct type of plug is used

of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug

torque. Take extra care to enter the plug

and the engine is in good condition, the spark

transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,

threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of

plugs should not need attention between

while a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).

light alloy construction.

scheduled renewal intervals, except for

7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered

adjustment of their gaps. Spark plug cleaning

with hard black-looking deposits, then this is

is rarely necessary, and should not be

indicative that the idle mixture is too rich.

attempted unless specialised equipment is

Should the plug be black and oily, then it is

available, as damage can easily be caused to

likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as

the firing ends.

the mixture being too rich.

2 To remove the plugs, first open the bonnet.

8 If the insulator nose is covered with light-

On 1.2 litre models remove the air cleaner as

tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the

described in Chapter 4A. On 2.0 litre 16-valve

mixture is correct and it is likely that the

engines undo the retaining screws and remove

engine is in good condition.

the spark plug lead cover from the engine.

9 The spark plug gap is of considerable

3 Mark the HT leads 1 to 4, to correspond to

importance as, if it is too large or too small,

the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is

the size of the spark and its efficiency will be

nearest the timing belt end of the engine). Pull

seriously impaired. For the best results, the

the HT leads from the plugs by gripping the

spark plug gap should be set in accordance

It is very often difficult to insert spark

end connectors, not the leads, otherwise the

with the Specifications at the end of this

plugs into their holes without cross-

lead connections may be fractured.

Chapter.

threading them. To avoid this, fit a short

length of 5/16-inch internal diameter

hose over the end of the spark plug. The

flexible hose acts as a universal joint to

help align the plug with the plug hole.

Should the plug begin to cross-thread,

the hose will slip on the spark plug,

preventing thread damage to the

aluminium cylinder head.

14 Reconnect the HT leads in their correct

order. On 1.2 litre models refit the air cleaner

(Chapter 4A) and on 2.0 litre 16-valve models,

refit the spark plug lead cover.

7.10b Measuring a spark plug electrode

7.11 Adjusting a spark plug electrode gap

gap using a wire gauge

using a special tool

1•10

Every 9000 miles

7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal

start with and the tension should be

fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.

rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after

8 Hose and fluid leak check

Check for loose connections, deteriorated

about 5 minutes running.

hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay

Power steering pump drivebelt

particular attention to the vent pipes and

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,

hoses, which often loop up around the filler

Checking and adjustment

gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil

neck and can become blocked or crimped.

leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas

7 Refer to the information given in paragraphs 1

Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,

around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil

3, noting that there should be

carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew

filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,

approximately 8 mm of free movement in the

damaged sections as necessary.

over a period of time, some very slight

belt.

8 From within the engine compartment,

seepage from these areas is to be expected;

8 If adjustment is required, slacken the

check the security of all fuel hose attachments

what you are really looking for is any

adjuster bolt locknut (situated on the base of

and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses

indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be

the pump) and rotate the adjuster nut as

and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and

found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal

necessary to tension the belt. Once the belt

deterioration.

by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this

tension is correct, securely tighten the

9 Where applicable, check the condition of

manual.

locknut.

2 Also check the security and condition of all

the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

Removal, renewal and refitting

the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure

that all cable-ties or securing clips are in

9 To remove the belt, simply loosen the

9 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

locknut and fully slacken the adjuster nut

place, and in good condition. Clips which are

renewal

broken or missing can lead to chafing of the

sufficiently to slip the drivebelt from the

pulleys.

hoses pipes or wiring, which could cause

more serious problems in the future.

Alternator drivebelt

10 Refit the belt, and tension it as described

previously. Note that when a new belt has

3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and

heater hoses along their entire length. Renew

Checking and adjustment

been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to

start with and the tension should be

any hose which is cracked, swollen or

1 Correct tensioning of the auxiliary drivebelt

deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the

will ensure that it has a long life. Beware,

rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after

about 5 minutes running.

hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the

however, of overtightening, as this can cause

hose clips that secure the hoses to the

excessive wear in the alternator.

Alternator/power steering pump

cooling system components. Hose clips can

2 The belt should be inspected along its

drivebelt - later 1.6 litre models

pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling

entire length, and if it is found to be worn,

system leaks. If wire-type hose clips are used,

frayed or cracked, it should be renewed as a

Checking and adjustment

it may be a good idea to replace them with

precaution against breakage in service. It is

11 From March 1987 onwards, a single

screw-type clips.

advisable to carry a spare drivebelt of the

drivebelt is used for the alternator and power

4 Inspect all the cooling system components

correct type in the vehicle at all times.

steering pump on

1.6 litre engines. The

(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. Where any

3 Although special tools are available for

drivebelt is of the ribbed type and runs at a

problems of this nature are found on system

measuring the belt tension, a good

higher tension than the previous (V) belt.

components, renew the component or gasket

approximation can be achieved if the belt is

12 To set the tension accurately, make up or

with reference to Chapter 3.

tensioned so that there is approximately 13 mm

obtain an adapter as shown (see illustration).

of free movement under firm thumb pressure at

13 Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting

the mid-point of the longest run between

strap bolts and fit the adapter. Using a torque

pulleys. If in doubt, err on the slack side, as an

wrench apply a load of 55 Nm (40 lbf ft) for a

excessively-tight belt may cause damage to

new belt, or 50 Nm (37 lbf ft) for an old belt.

the alternator or other components.

Keep the tension applied and securely tighten

4 If adjustment is required, loosen the

the alternator bolts.

alternator upper mounting nut and bolt - use

Removal, renewal and refitting

two spanners, one to counterhold the bolt.

14 To remove the belt, simply loosen the

Lever the alternator away from the engine

using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket

alternator pivot and strap bolts and slip the

drivebelt from the pulleys.

until the correct tension is achieved, then

tighten the bolt securing the adjuster bracket,

and the alternator mounting nuts and bolts.

On no account lever at the free end of the

A leak in the cooling system will usually

alternator, as serious internal damage could

show up as white- or rust-coloured

be caused to the alternator.

deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

Removal, renewal and refitting

5 To remove the belt, simply loosen the

5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic

mounting nuts and bolts, and the bolt

securing the adjuster bracket, as described

transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or

deterioration.

previously, and slacken the belt sufficiently to

6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol

slip it from the pulleys. On models with power

tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and

steering it will first be necessary to remove the

other damage. The connection between the

power steering pump drivebelt as described

filler neck and tank is especially critical.

below.

Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting

6 Refit the belt, and tension it as described

hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or

previously. Note that when a new belt has

9.12 Adapter KM-612 used for setting

deteriorated rubber.

been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to

drivebelt tension on later 1.6 litre models

Every 9000 miles 1•11

15 Refit the belt, and tension it as described

previously. Note that when a new belt has

been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to

start with and the tension should be

rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after

about 5 minutes running.

10 Ignition system check

Models with contact breaker

ignition system

10.9a Remove the distributor cap . . .

10.9b . . . and pull off the rotor arm from

1 Renew the contact breaker points and

the distributor shaft (1.6 litre model shown)

adjust the gap and dwell angle as described in

Chapter 5B. After adjustment put one or two

drops of engine oil into the centre of the cam

renew if necessary. Remove and inspect the

(where fitted) is correctly adjusted (see

recess where appropriate and smear the

rotor arm (see illustrations). It is common

relevant Part of Chapter 4).

surfaces of the cam itself with petroleum jelly.

practice to renew the cap and rotor arm

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

Do not over-lubricate as any excess could get

whenever new spark plug (HT) leads are fitted.

are secure with no leaks or kinks (Chapter

onto the contact point surfaces and cause

When fitting a new cap, remove the leads

2).

ignition difficulties.

from the old cap one at a time and fit them to

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

2 The spark plug (HT) leads should also be

the new cap in the exact same location - do

clean (Section 31).

checked.

not simultaneously remove all the leads from

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before

the old cap or firing order confusion may

condition (see relevant Part of Chapter 4).

removing them, if not make identification

occur. On refitting ensure that the arm is

g) If the engine is running very roughly,

marks to avoid confusion when refitting. Pull

securely pressed onto the shaft and the cap is

check the compression pressures as

the leads from the plugs by gripping the end

securely fitted.

described in Chapter 2.

fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead

10 Even with the ignition system in first class

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient

connection may be fractured.

condition, some engines may still occasionally

length to warm it up to normal operating

4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of

experience poor starting attributable to damp

temperature. Proceed as described under the

corrosion, which will look like a white crusty

ignition components. To disperse moisture a

relevant sub-heading.

powder. Push the end fitting back onto the

moister dispersant aerosal can be very

Note: Adjustment should be completed within

spark plug ensuring that it is a tight fit on the

effective.

two minutes of return, without stopping the

plug. If not, remove the lead again and use

engine. If this cannot be achieved, or if the

Models with an electronic ignition

pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector

radiator electric cooling fan operates, wait for

system

inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the

the cooling fan to stop and clear any excess

end of the spark plug.

fuel from the inlet manifold by racing the

Warning: Voltages produced by

5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of

engine two or three times to between 2000

an electronic ignition system are

the lead to remove any built-up dirt and

considerably higher than those

and 3000 rpm, then allow it to idle again.

grease. Once the lead is clean, check for

produced by conventional

Carburettor models

burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend

ignition systems. Extreme care must be

the lead excessively or pull the lead

taken when working on the system with the

3 Connect a tachometer in accordance with

lengthwise

- the conductor inside might

ignition switched on. Persons with

the manufacturer’s instructions.

break.

surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker

4 If the idle speed is outside the specified

6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from

devices should keep well clear of the

tolerance

(see Specifications), turn the

the distributor cap. Again, pull only on the end

ignition circuits, components and test

adjustment screw as necessary

(see

equipment.

illustrations). This will not alter the CO

fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the

content of the exhaust gas to any extent.

same manner as the spark plug end. If an

ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of

11 Check the condition of the HT leads and

5 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,

distributor components as described above in

check the exhaust gas CO content as follows.

the lead by connecting the meter between the

spark plug end of the lead and the segment

paragraphs 3 to 10.

12 Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5C).

inside the distributor cap. Refit the lead

securely on completion.

7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in

11 Idle speed and mixture

the same way.

adjustments

8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required,

purchase a set for your specific car and

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture

engine.

setting, always check first the following.

9 Remove the distributor cap, wipe it clean

a) Check that the ignition timing is accurate

and carefully inspect it inside and out for signs

(Chapter 5B or 5C).

of cracks, carbon tracks (tracking) and worn,

b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

burned or loose contacts; check that the

condition and correctly gapped (Section

cap’s carbon brush is unworn, free to move

25).

against spring pressure and making good

c) Check that the accelerator cable and, on

contact with the rotor arm. Also inspect the

11.4a Idle speed adjustment screw

carburettor models, the choke cable

cap seal for signs of wear or damage and

(arrowed) - 32TL carburettor

1•12

Every 9000 miles

11.4b Idle speed adjustment screw

11.4c Adjusting the idle speed - Varajet

11.4d Idle speed adjusting screw (A) - 1B1

(arrowed) - 2E3 carburettor

carburettor

6 Remove the tamperproof cap (where fitted)

13 If adjustment is necessary, remove the

from the mixture adjustment screw. Satisfy

tamperproof cap from the mixture adjusting

yourself that you are not breaking any local or

screw on the airflow sensor (see illustration).

national laws by so doing.

Turn the screw clockwise to enrich the

7 With the engine at normal operating

mixture, and anti-clockwise to weaken it.

temperature, check the CO content of the

14 On completion, re-adjust the idle speed if

exhaust gas. If it is outside the permitted

necessary. Note that failure to bring the CO

tolerance, turn the mixture adjusting screw as

level within the specified range indicates a

necessary to correct it (see illustrations).

fault in the injection system, or a worn engine.

8 When the adjustments are correct, fit a new

2.0 litre models

tamperproof cap to the screw and disconnect

the tachometer. Note: On 32TL and Varajet II

15 On all models the idle speed is

carburettors, if it proves difficult to adjust the

automatically controlled by the electronic

idle speed and/or mixture setting then it is

control unit and is not adjustable. If it is found

11.4e Idle adjustment points - 35PDSI

likely that the base idle speed is incorrect.

to be incorrect then a fault is present in the

carburettor

Setting of this requires the use of an accurate

fuel injection/ignition system (Chapter 4B).

vacuum gauge and should therefore be

16 On models without a catalytic converter,

1 Distributor vacuum take-off

entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.

the mixture (CO level) can be adjusted as

2 Idle speed adjustment screw

described above in paragraphs 9 and 11 to

Fuel-injected models

3 Mixture (CO level) adjustment screw

14. On 16-valve models the adjusting screw is

1.8 litre models

on the air mass meter (see illustration).

9 With the engine at normal operating

temperature, connect a tachometer in

accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions.

10 Allow the engine to idle, and compare the

idle speed with that given in the

Specifications. If adjustment is necessary,

slacken the locknut and turn the idle speed

adjusting screw until the specified speed is

obtained. The adjusting screw is situated on

the throttle valve housing. Tighten the locknut

on completion.

11 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,

check the mixture (CO level) as follows.

12 With the engine idling at the specified

11.7a Mixture (CO) adjustment screw -

11.7b Mixture (CO) adjustment screw cap

speed, read the CO level and compare it with

32TL carburettor

(arrowed) 2E3 carburettor

that specified.

11.13 On 1.8 litre fuel-injected models the

11.7c Adjusting the mixture (CO) setting -

11.7d Mixture (CO) adjustment screw (B) -

mixture adjustment screw is located under

Varajet carburettor

1B1 carburettor

the cap on the airflow sensor

Every 9000 miles 1•13

3 Remove the filter from the cover and wash

it fresh fuel to remove any debris from it.

15 Wiper blade check

Inspect the filter for signs of clogging or

splitting and renew it if necessary.

4 Locate the filter in the cover and fit the

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If

rubber seal.

they are cracked, or show any signs of

5 Refit the cover to the pump and securely

deterioration, or if they fail to clean the glass

tighten its retaining screw.

effectively, renew the blades. Ideally, the

6 Start the engine and check for signs of fuel

wiper blades should be renewed annually as a

leakage.

matter of course.

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm away

from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade

13 Automatic transmission fluid

through 90º, then squeeze the locking clip,

11.16 Adjusting the mixture (CO) setting -

level check

and detach the blade from the arm. When

2.0 litre 16-valve models

fitting the new blade, make sure that the blade

1 To check the fluid level, the vehicle must be

locks securely into the arm, and that the blade

17 On models fitted with a catalytic

parked on level ground. Apply the handbrake.

is orientated correctly.

converter, the mixture

(CO level) is also

2 If the transmission fluid is cold (ie, if the

automatically controlled by the electronic

engine is cold), the level check must be

control unit and is not adjustable. If it is found

16 Roadwheel bolt tightness

to be incorrect then a fault is present in the

completed with the engine idling, within one

check

fuel injection/ignition system (Chapter 4B).

minute of the engine being started.

3 With the engine idling, fully depress the

1.4 and 1.6 litre models

Using a torque wrench on each wheel bolt

brake pedal, and move the gear selector lever

in turn, ensure that the bolts are tightened to

18 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models both the idle

smoothly through all positions, finishing in

the specified torque.

speed and mixture CO content are

position “P”.

automatically controlled by the control unit

4 With the engine still idling, withdraw the

and cannot be manually adjusted

(See

17 Brake pad, caliper and disc

transmission fluid level dipstick (located at the

Chapter

4B). If necessary, they can be

check

left-hand side of the engine compartment,

checked by if they are found to be incorrect

next to the engine oil level dipstick). Pull up

then a fault is present in the fuel

the lever on the top of the dipstick to release it

injection/ignition system.

Front brakes

from the tube. Wipe the dipstick clean with a

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

lint-free rag, re-insert it and withdraw it again.

of the vehicle and support securely on axle

12 Fuel pump filter cleaning -

5 If the transmission fluid was cold at the

stands; remove the roadwheels (see “Jacking

carburettor models

beginning of the procedure, the fluid level

and Vehicle Support “).

should be on the “MAX” mark on the side of

2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction

the dipstick marked “+20ºC”. Note that 0.4

Warning: Before carrying out

material remaining on each pad can be

litres of fluid is required to raise the level from

the following operation refer to

measured through the slot in the front of the

the precautions given in Safety

the “MIN” to the “MAX” mark.

caliper body (see illustration). If any pad is

first! and follow them implicitly.

6 If the transmission fluid was at operating

worn to the minimum thickness or less, all

Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile

temperature at the beginning of the procedure

four pads must be renewed (see Chapter 9).

liquid and the precautions necessary

(ie, if the vehicle had been driven for at least

3 For a complete check, the brake pads

when handling it cannot be overstressed

12 miles/20 km), the fluid level should be

should be removed and cleaned. This will allow

between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the

the operation of the caliper to be checked, and

Note: On some models the fuel pump may be

side of the dipstick marked “+94ºC”. Note

the condition of the brake disc itself to be fully

a sealed unit, in which case this procedure is

that 0.2 litres of fluid is required to raise the

examined on both sides (see Chapter 9).

not necessary.

level from the “MIN” to the “MAX” mark.

Rear brakes

1 Place a wad of rag underneath the fuel

7 If topping-up is necessary, stop the engine,

pump to catch the fuel which will be spilt

4 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the

and top-up with the specified type of fluid

during the following operation.

rear of the vehicle and support securely on

through the transmission dipstick tube.

2 Undo the retaining screw and remove the

axle stands; remove the roadwheels (see

8 Re-check the level, and refit the dipstick on

end cover from the fuel pump. Recover the

“Jacking and Vehicle Support “). Inspect the

completion.

rubber seal (see illustration).

pads as described in paragraphs 2 and 3.

14 Electrical system check

1 Check the operation of all the electrical

equipment, ie lights, direction indicators,

horn, etc. Refer to the appropriate sections of

Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are

found to be inoperative.

2 Note that stop-light switch adjustment is

described in Chapter 9.

3 Check all accessible wiring connectors,

harnesses and retaining clips for security, and

12.2 Removing the fuel pump cover, filter

for signs of chafing or damage. Rectify any

17.2 The thickness of the brake pads are

and rubber seal - carburettor models

faults found.

visible through the caliper aperture

1•14

Every 9000 miles

12 Repeat the operation on the other brake.

18 Rear wheel bearing

13 Tighten the cable adjuster nut until the

adjustment

shoes start to drag again. This should happen

on both sides.

14 Release and fully reapply the handbrake a

Refer to Chapter 10, Section 9.

couple of times. Check that the discs turn

freely when the control is fully released, and

that the brake is fully applied at the sixth

19 Handbrake adjustment

notch.

15 Refit the exhaust heat shield if it was

removed. Refit the wheels, lower the vehicle

Rear drum brake models

and tighten the wheel bolts.

1 Normal adjustment of the handbrake takes

place automatically due to the self-adjusting

20 Driveshaft CV joint and gaiter

mechanism of the rear brakes. To

19.3 Handbrake cable adjusting nut

check

compensate for cable stretch, or after a new

(arrowed) on yoke - rear drum brake

cable has been fitted or the adjustment has

models

Refer to Chapter 8, Section 5.

otherwise been disturbed, proceed as follows.

of the shoe web by approximately 3 mm with

2 Chock the front wheels, release the

the handbrake released.

handbrake and raise and support the rear of

6 When adjustment is correct, apply a smear

the vehicle so that the rear wheels are clear of

21 Hinge and lock lubrication

of grease to the threads of the cable end

the ground.

fitting to prevent corrosion. Lower the vehicle,

3 Tighten the nut on the handbrake cable

apply the handbrake and remove the wheel

Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors

yoke until the rear wheels start to become stiff

chocks.

and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil.

to turn, then back it off until they are free

Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock

again (see illustration).

Rear disc brake models

strikers. At the same time, check the security

4 Check that the handbrake starts to take

7 Before checking handbrake adjustment,

and operation of all the locks, adjusting them

effect at the second notch of lever movement,

drive for approximately 300 metres at low

if necessary (see Chapter 11).

and is fully applied by the fourth or fifth notch.

speed with the handbrake lightly applied. This

Lightly lubricate the bonnet release

5 A further check may be made by removing

will clean off any rust or glaze from the drums

mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.

the plug in the brake backplate

(see

and shoes.

illustration). When adjustment is correct, the

8 Chock the front wheels and engage a gear.

pin on the handbrake operating lever is clear

Slacken the rear wheel bolts. Raise and

22 Exhaust system check

support the rear of the vehicle and remove the

rear wheels.

9 Release the handbrake, then reapply it by

1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after

two notches.

the vehicle has been driven), check the

10 Slacken off the adjuster nut on the

complete exhaust system from the engine to

handbrake cable yoke (located to the left of

the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is

the silencer) until it is at the end of its travel. If

most easily checked with the vehicle raised on

a silencer heat shield is fitted, access will be

a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands

improved by removing it.

(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). so that

11 Turn a brake disc to bring the adjuster

the exhaust components are readily visible

hole (the large unthreaded hole) into line with

and accessible.

the adjuster at the bottom of the brake shoes.

2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections

Using a screwdriver through the hole, turn the

for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and

adjuster wheel until the shoes are against the

damage. Make sure that all brackets and

19.5 Check the handbrake lever pin

disc, then back it off again until the disc is just

free to turn without the shoes dragging (see

mountings are in good condition, and that all

(arrowed) is correctly positioned as

illustrations).

relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at

described in text

any of the joints or in other parts of the system

will usually show up as a black sooty stain in

the vicinity of the leak. Reputable exhaust

repair systems can be used for effective

repairs to exhaust pipes and silencer boxes,

including ends and bends. Check for an MOT-

approved permanent exhaust repair.

3 Rattles and other noises can often be

traced to the exhaust system, especially the

brackets and mountings. Try to move the

pipes and silencers. If the components are

able to come into contact with the body or

suspension parts, secure the system with new

mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if

19.11a On models with rear disc brakes

19.11b . . . and can be adjusted using a

possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to

the handbrake shoe adjuster wheel is

suitable screwdriver

provide additional clearance.

accessible through the hole in the disc . . .

Every 18 000 miles 1•15

7 Listen for any unusual noises from the

Check the operation and

engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission.

performance of the braking

23 Road test

8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly

system

when idling, and that there is no hesitation

13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to

when accelerating.

one side when braking, and that the wheels

Instruments and electrical

9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch

do not lock prematurely when braking hard.

equipment

action is smooth and progressive, that the

14 Check that there is no vibration through

drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal

1 Check the operation of all instruments and

the steering when braking.

electrical equipment.

travel is not excessive. Also listen for any

15 Check that the handbrake operates

noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.

2 Make sure that all instruments read

correctly without excessive movement of the

10 On manual gearbox models, check that all

correctly, and switch on all electrical

lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary

gears can be engaged smoothly without

equipment in turn, to check that it functions

on a slope.

noise, and that the gear lever action is not

properly.

16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit

abnormally vague or “notchy”.

as follows. With the engine off, depress the

Steering and suspension

11 On automatic transmission models, make

footbrake four or five times to exhaust the

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,

sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly,

vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed,

suspension, handling or road “feel”.

without snatching, and without an increase in

then start the engine. As the engine starts,

4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are

engine speed between changes. Check that

there should be a noticeable “give” in the

no unusual vibrations or noises.

all the gear positions can be selected with the

brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the

5 Check that the steering feels positive, with

vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they

engine to run for at least two minutes, and

no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and

should be referred to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.

then switch it off. If the brake pedal is

check for any suspension noises when

12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from

depressed now, it should be possible to

cornering and driving over bumps.

the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven

detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is

slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.

Drivetrain

depressed. After about four or five

Carry out this check in both directions. If a

applications, no further hissing should be

6 Check the performance of the engine,

clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a

heard, and the pedal should feel considerably

clutch

(where applicable),

gearbox/

driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint

harder.

transmission and driveshafts.

if necessary.

Every 18 000 miles

24 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

Carburettor models

1 To remove the air cleaner element, remove

the air cleaner cover. This is secured by a

centre nut or bolt, or by three screws.

Additionally, release the spring clips around

the edge of the cover or, if spring clips are not

fitted, carefully prise around the lower edge of

the cover with your fingers to release the

retaining lugs (see illustrations).

24.1a On carburettor models, undo the

24.1b . . . and release the retaining

2 With the cover removed, lift out the element

retaining nut (on some models the lid will

clips . . .

(see illustrations).

be retained by screws) . . .

3 Wipe inside the air cleaner, being careful

not to introduce dirt into the carburettor

throat. It is preferable to remove the air

cleaner completely. Remember to clean the

inside of the air cleaner cover.

4 Fit the new element, then refit and secure

the cover. Observe any cover-to-body

alignment lugs or slots.

Fuel injection models

1.4 and 1.6 litre models

5 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 4.

1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve models

6 The air cleaner on these models is

24.2a . . . then lift off the air cleaner lid . . .

24.2b . . . and withdraw the filter element

contained within the airflow sensor housing.

Content .. 1 2 ..