Ford Orion. Manual - part 55

records any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre
from the straight-ahead position as it moves
across the plate. Relatively inexpensive
equipment of both types is available from
accessory outlets to enable these checks,
and subsequent adjustments to be carried
out at home.
5 If, after checking the toe setting using
whichever method is preferable, it is found
that adjustment is necessary, proceed as
follows.
6 Turn the steering wheel onto full left lock,
and record the number of exposed threads on

the right-hand steering track rod. Now turn
the steering onto full right lock, and record the
number of threads on the left-hand side. If
there are the same number of threads visible
on both sides, then subsequent adjustment
can be made equally on both sides. If there
are more threads visible on one side than the
other, it will be necessary to compensate for
this during adjustment. After adjustment,
there must be the same number of threads
visible on each track rod. This is most
important.
7 To alter the toe setting, slacken the

locknut securing the track rod end balljoint to
the track rod, and turn the track rod using a
self-grip wrench to achieve the desired
setting. When viewed from the side of the
car, turning the track rod clockwise will
increase the toe-in, turning it anti-clockwise
will increase the toe-out. Only turn the track
rods by a quarter of a turn each time, and
then recheck the setting using the gauges, or
scuff plate.
8 After adjustment, tighten the locknuts and
check that the steering gear rubber gaiter has
not been twisted by turning the track rods.

10•18 Suspension and steering systems

11

Powered hood - Cabriolet models

Power hood hydraulic system fluid type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Esso UNIVIS J26

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Front seat slide to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25 to 32

18 to 24

Seat belt anchor bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29 to 45

22 to 33

Seat belt lower anchorage rail securing bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29 to 45

22 to 33

Front seat belt height adjuster bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25 to 45

18 to 33

Front seat slide to frame nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25 to 45

18 to 33

Bonnet hinge bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.5 to 12

6.5 to 9

Bonnet latch bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 11

7 to 8

Tailgate hinge bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 27

16 to 20

Tailgate striker bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 11

7 to 8

Tailgate lock bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 11

7 to 8

Boot lid hinge bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 27

16 to 20

Boot lid striker bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 11

7 to 8

Boot lid latch bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 11

7 to 8

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings

Body side-trim mouldings and adhesive emblems - removal

and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Bumpers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Central locking system control module - removal and refitting  . . . . 24
Centre console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Door - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Door and tailgate weatherstrips - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 26
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Door lock, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 15
Door window glass - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door window regulator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Exterior mirror and glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Facia - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Interior mirror - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Maintenance - upholstery and carpets  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Powered hood (Cabriolet models) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . 39
Powered hood control damper/hydraulic ram (Cabriolet models) - 

removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Powered hood control system (Cabriolet models) - hose removal, 

refitting and system bleeding  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Powered hood operating motor and pump (Cabriolet models) - 

removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Radiator grille - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Rear quarter window glass (Cabriolet models) - removal 

and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Rear quarter window regulator (Cabriolet models) - removal

and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Roof moulding (Van models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Seat belts - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Sunroof - checking and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Sunroof panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Sunroof weatherstrip - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Tailgate - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Wheel arch liners - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Windscreen and fixed windows - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 25

11•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

1

General information

The bodyshell and underframe on all

models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The body style range is comprehensive,
and includes the 3- and 5-door Hatchback,
the 4-door Saloon, the 5-door Estate, the 2-
door Cabriolet, and the Van.

A multi-stage anti-corrosion process is

applied to all new vehicles. This includes zinc
phosphating on some panels, the injection of
wax into boxed sections, and a wax and PVC
coating applied to the underbody for its
protection.

Inertia reel seat belts are fitted to all

models, and from the 1994 model year
onwards, the front seat belt stalks are
mounted on automatic tensioners (also known
as “grabbers”) (see illustration). In the event
of a serious front impact, a spring mass
sensor releases a coil spring which pulls the
stalk buckle downwards and tensions the seat
belt. It is not possible to reset the tensioner
once fired, and it must therefore be renewed.

Central locking is a standard or optional

fitment on all models. Where double-locking is
also fitted, the lock mechanism is
disconnected (when the system is in use) from
the interior door handles, making it impossible
to open any of the doors or the
tailgate/bootlid from inside the vehicle. This
means that, even if a thief should break a side
window, it will not be possible to open the
door using the interior handle.

Many of the procedures in this Chapter

require the battery to be disconnected. Refer
to Chapter 5, Section 1 first.

2

Maintenance - 
bodywork and underframe

1

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture

and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to

avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out (see illustration).
Brightwork should be treated in the same way
as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can
be kept clear of the smeary film which often
appears, by the use of proprietary glass
cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other
body or chromium polish on glass.

3

Maintenance - 
upholstery and carpets

1

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.

4

Minor body damage - repair

3

Note: For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

1

Coil spring

2

Lever system

3

Spring mass
sensor

2.4  Ensure that the body drain holes are

clear

1.3  Automatic seat belt tensioner

If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,

particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.

Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better
to bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 3 mm below the level of the
surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold
a suitable block of wood firmly against the
outside of the panel, to absorb the impact from
the hammer blows and thus prevent a large
area of the bodywork from being “belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some

other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s manuals on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the

Bodywork and fittings  11•3

11