Ford Orion. Manual - part 51

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Front suspension

Hub/driveshaft retaining nut:

M20 x 1.5 (23 splines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

205 to 235

151 to 173

M22 x 1.5 (25 splines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

220 to 250

162 to 186

Lower arm balljoint-to-spindle carrier clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

48 to 60

35 to 44

Lower arm to subframe bolts (using torque-to-yield method with
vehicle standing on its wheels):

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Slacken completely

Stage 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Stage 4  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tighten through a further 90º

Anti-roll bar link to suspension strut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Anti-roll bar link to anti-roll bar  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Anti-roll bar-to-subframe clamp bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 28

15 to 21

Subframe retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80 to 90

59 to 66

Suspension top mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40 to 62

30 to 38

Suspension strut piston rod top spring seat nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

52 to 65

38 to 48

Suspension strut-to-spindle carrier clamp bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80 to 90

59 to 66

Rear suspension (Hatchback, Saloon and Estate)

Rear hub bearing nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

250 to 270

184 to 199

Axle front mounting bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Axle front bush/bracket pivot nuts/bolts*  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

102 to 138

75 to 102

Strut upper mounting nuts (Hatchback and Saloon)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28 to 40

20 to 30

Strut lower mounting (Hatchback and Saloon) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

102 to 138

75 to 102

Strut upper through-bolt (Hatchback and Saloon)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Shock absorber upper mounting (Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Shock absorber lower mounting (Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58 to 79

43 to 58

*Torque to be measured from the bolt head (not the nut)

Rear suspension (Van)

Rear hub bearing nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

250 to 270

184 to 199

Shock absorber upper mounting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Shock absorber lower mounting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58 to 79

43 to 58

Shock absorber mounting bracket to body  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30 to 40

22 to 30

Axle/spring U-bolt nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34 to 47

25 to 35

Front spring mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 97

52 to 71

Rear shackle upper stud/nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Rear shackle lower mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 97

52 to 71

Steering (manual)

Steering wheel-to-column shaft bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45 to 55

33 to 40

Steering gear-to-subframe bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 97

53 to 65

Steering column mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10 to 14

7 to 10

Steering column-to-pinion shaft clamp bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26 to 35

19 to 26

Track rod end to spindle carrier arm  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25 to 30

18 to 22

Track rod end-to-track rod locknut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

57 to 68

42 to 50

Track rod to steering rack  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68 to 90

50 to 66

Adjustable steering through-bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6 to 8

4 to 6

Steering (power-assisted)

Steering wheel-to-column shaft bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45 to 55

33 to 40

Steering gear-to-subframe bolts:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tighten through a further 90º

Steering column mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17 to 24

12 to 18

Steering column-to-pinion shaft clamp bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 28

15 to 21

Track rod end to spindle carrier arm  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25 to 30

18 to 22

Track rod end-to-track rod locknut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

57 to 68

42 to 50

Track rod to steering rack  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68 to 90

50 to 66

Adjustable steering through-bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6 to 8

4 to 6

Steering pump bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 28

15 to 21

Steering pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 28

15 to 21

Pressure hose to pump  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26 to 31

19 to 22

Roadwheel nuts

All models*  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 100

52 to 74

*Special nuts incorporating washers are fitted for alloy wheels.

10•2 Suspension and steering systems

1

General information

The independent front suspension is of the

MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil
springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers 

(see illustration). The struts are

attached to spindle carriers at their lower
ends, and the carriers are in turn attached to
the lower suspension arm by balljoints. High-
series models are fitted with an anti-roll bar,
and this is attached to the subframe and lower
suspension arms by link rods with rubber
bushes.

On all except Van models, the semi-

independent rear suspension is of trailing
arm type, incorporating a twist type axle
beam (see illustration). This inverted V-
section beam allows a limited torsional
flexibility, giving each rear wheel a certain
amount of independent movement whilst at
the same time maintaining the track and
wheel camber control for the rear axle. The
axle is attached to the body by rubber void
bushes, via brackets mounted on the
underside of the body. Each bracket has a
conical seating peg to ensure accurate
alignment of the axle. It is important to note
that the vehicle must never be jacked up at
the rear under the axle beam. The axle beam
itself is maintenance-free but where
required, the pivot bushes of the trailing arm
can be renewed.

The rear suspension struts on Hatchback

and Saloon models are similar to those used
for the front suspension, the combined coil
spring and shock absorber being mounted
between the suspension turret in the luggage
area at the top and the trailing arm, inboard of
the stub axle at the bottom. The Estate model
differs in that the coil spring is separate from
the shock absorber, and is enclosed between
the underbody and the trailing suspension
arm.

On Van models, the rear suspension

comprises a transverse beam axle which is
supported by a single leaf spring each side.
Telescopic shock absorbers are used to
control vertical movement.

A variable-ratio type rack-and-pinion

steering gear is fitted, together with a
conventional column and two-section shaft
(see illustration). The steering gear is bolted
to the front subframe. A height adjustment
mechanism is fitted to some models, and
power-assisted steering is also available.

When working on the suspension or

steering, you may come across nuts or bolts
which seem impossible to loosen. These nuts
and bolts on the underside of the vehicle are
continually subjected to water, road grime,
mud, etc, and can become rusted or seized,
making them extremely difficult to remove. In
order to unscrew these stubborn nuts and
bolts without damaging them (or other

Suspension and steering systems  10•3

1.1  General view of the front suspension assembly

1.5  Steering gear and column layout (left-hand drive version shown)

1.2  General view of the rear suspension assembly on Hatchback, Saloon and Estate models

10

1

Strut

2

Spindle carrier

3

Lower suspension arm

4

Double vertical bushes

5

Subframe

6

Anti-roll bar (where
applicable)

7

Anti-roll bar link rod

1

Axle beam

2

Trailing arm

3

Mounting

4

Pivot bush

5

Strut assembly (Hatchback and 
Saloon models)

6

Twist axle beam, coil spring and shock
absorber (Estate models)

1

Steering gear (rack-
and-pinion)

2

Intermediate shaft and
universal joints

3

Steering column
bracket

4

Collapsible steering
shaft

5

Compression spring

6

Convoluted shock-
absorbing section

7

Upper
mounting/steering
lock

8

Steering column
height adjuster (where
fitted)

components), use lots of penetrating oil, and
allow it to soak in for a while. Using a wire
brush to clean exposed threads will also ease
removal of the nut or bolt, and will help to
prevent damage to the threads. Sometimes, a
sharp blow with a hammer and punch will
break the bond between a nut and bolt, but
care must be taken to prevent the punch from
slipping off and ruining the threads. Heating
the nut or bolt and surrounding area with a
blow lamp sometimes helps too, but this is
not recommended, because of the obvious
dangers associated with fire. Extension bars
or pipes will increase leverage, but never use
one on a ratchet, as the internal mechanism
could be damaged. Actually tightening the
nut or bolt first may help to break it loose.
Nuts or bolts which have required drastic
measures to remove them should always be
renewed.

Since most of the procedures dealt with in

this Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle
and working underneath it, a good pair of axle
stands will be needed. A hydraulic trolley jack
is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle,
and it can also be used to support certain
components during removal and refitting
operations. 

Warning: Never, under any
circumstances, rely on a jack to
support the vehicle while working
beneath it. When jacking up the

vehicle, do not lift or support it beneath
the front or rear subframes.

2

Front spindle carrier -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, loosen the front
roadwheel nuts on the side concerned, then
jack up the front of the car and support it on
axle stands. Remove the appropriate front
roadwheel.
2 Using a suitable pin punch, bend back the
locking tab securing the driveshaft/hub nut,
then loosen off the nut.
3 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach the
brake hose and its locating bracket from the
suspension strut (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the brake caliper-to-carrier
retaining bolts, then withdraw the caliper and
suspend it from a suitable fixing in the inner
wing to avoid straining the brake hose. Where
applicable, detach the ABS sensor and its
lead clip from the spindle carrier.
5 Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint, then unscrew the nut and detach the
rod from the spindle carrier using a
conventional balljoint removal tool, but take
care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6 Note the direction of fitting, then unscrew
and remove the lower arm balljoint-to-spindle
carrier clamp bolt. Prise the joint open
carefully using a large flat-bladed tool, and
detach the balljoint from the spindle carrier

(see illustrations). Take care not to damage
the balljoint seal during the separation
procedures.
7 Unscrew the brake disc retaining screw,
and remove the brake disc from the hub.
8 Unscrew and remove the driveshaft
retaining nut and washer.
9 Note the direction of fitting, then unscrew
and remove the suspension strut-to-spindle
retaining bolt. Prise open the clamping slot
using a suitable wedged tool, and release the
spindle from the strut. If necessary, tap the
spindle carrier downwards to separate the
two components (see illustrations).
10 Connect up a universal puller to the
spindle carrier, and withdraw it from the
driveshaft. When the driveshaft is free of the
spindle, suspend it from a suitable fixing point
under the wheel arch. This will prevent it from
hanging down and its joint being pivoted
beyond the maximum angle specified (see
Section 9 of Chapter 8).

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
observe the following points:
a)

Ensure that all mating faces, particularly
those of the disc and hub flange, are
clean before refitting.

b)

Lubricate the hub splines with
molybdenum disulphide grease, and take
care not to dislodge the hub bearings as
the driveshaft is refitted through the hub.

c)

Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

10•4 Suspension and steering systems

2.9B  . . . and separate the spindle carrier

from the strut

2.9A  Remove the suspension strut-to-

spindle carrier clamp bolt . . .

2.6C  . . . and detach the lower arm

balljoint from the spindle

2.6B  Prise open the joint . . .

2.6A  Removing the lower arm-to-spindle

clamp bolt and nut

2.3  Disconnect the brake hose from the

front suspension strut

torque. Fit a new split pin to the track rod
end balljoint nut to secure it. When
reconnecting the suspension lower arm
balljoint to the spindle carrier, ensure that
the clamp bolt is fully engaged in the
locating groove, and prevent the bolt from
turning as the nut is tightened.

d)

When the hub nut is tightened to its
specified torque wrench setting, spin the
hub to ensure that it turns freely, then
stake the nut flange into the groove in the
end of the driveshaft.

3

Front hub bearings -
checking

3

1 All models are fitted with non-adjustable
front wheel bearings which are supplied pre-
greased by the manufacturer.
2 To check the bearings for excessive wear,
apply the handbrake, then raise and support
the front end of the vehicle securely on axle
stands.
3 Grip the roadwheel at the top and bottom,
and attempt to rock it. If excessive movement
is noted, or if there is any roughness or
vibration felt when the wheel is spun, this
indicates that the hub bearings are in need of
renewal. Refer to Chapter 8 Specifications to
determine whether a 23-spline or 25-spline
driveshaft is fitted, then refer to Section 4 or 5
(as applicable) and proceed as described to
renew the bearings.

4

Front hub bearings 
(23-spline type) - renewal

4

Note: The front hub bearings should only be
removed from the spindle carrier if they are to
be renewed. The removal procedure renders
the bearings unserviceable, and they must not
be re-used. Prior to dismantling, it should be
noted that a hub/bearing puller and an
assortment of metal tubes of various
diameters (and preferably, a press) will be
required. Unless these tools are available, the
renewal of the spindle carrier/hub bearings will
have to be entrusted to a Ford garage. Under
no circumstances attempt to tap the hub
bearings into position, as this will render them
unserviceable. On ABS-equipped models,
care must be taken during the bearing removal
and refitting procedures not to damage the
ABS wheel sensor ring.

Removal

1 Remove the spindle carrier from the vehicle
as described in Section 2.
2 The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive out
the hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter.

3 Part of the inner race will remain on the hub,
and this should be removed using a puller.
4 Using a suitable punch, tap the outer
bearing race at diametrically-opposed points
and remove it from the spindle carrier (see
illustration). Do not allow the bearing to tilt
during its withdrawal from the housing, or it
will jam and possibly damage the surface of
the bore. Any burrs left in a bearing bore will
prevent the new bearing from seating
correctly.
5 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and hub
before reassembly begins.

Refitting

6 Press the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier using a length of metal tube
of diameter slightly less than the outer race.
Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt, a nut
and large flat washers may be used to draw
the bearing into position (see illustration). Fit
the new inner bearing assembly in the same
way.
7 Support the inner race on a length of metal
tube, then press the hub fully into the bearing.
8 Check that the hub spins freely in the
bearings, then refit the spindle carrier as
described in Section 2.

5

Front hub bearings 
(25-spline type) - renewal

4

Note: The front hub bearings should only be
removed from the spindle carrier if they are to
be renewed. The removal procedure renders
the bearings unserviceable, and they must not
be re-used. Prior to dismantling, it should be
noted that a hub/bearing puller and an
assortment of metal tubes of various
diameters (and preferably, a press) will be
required. Unless these tools are available, the
renewal of the spindle carrier/hub bearings will
have to be entrusted to a Ford garage. Under
no circumstances attempt to tap the hub
bearings into position, as this will render them
unserviceable. On ABS-equipped models,
care must be taken during the bearing removal
and refitting procedures not to damage the
ABS wheel sensor ring.

Removal

1 Remove the spindle carrier from the vehicle
as described in Section 2.
2 The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive out
the hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter.
3 Part of the inner race will remain on the hub,
and this should be removed using a puller.
4 Extract the bearing retaining circlip using
circlip pliers, then drive the bearing outer race
from the spindle carrier. Do not allow the
bearing to tilt during its withdrawal from the
housing, or it will jam and possibly damage
the surface of the bore. Any burrs left in a
bearing bore will prevent the new bearing
from seating correctly. If necessary, insert the
old inner race to facilitate removal of the
bearing.
5 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and hub
before reassembly begins.

Refitting

6 Press the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier, using a length of metal
tube of diameter slightly less than the outer
race. Do not apply any pressure to the inner
race. Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt,
a nut and large flat washers may be used to
draw the bearing into position (see
illustration 4.6).
7 Secure the bearing in the spindle carrier
using the circlip.
8 Support the inner race on a length of metal
tube, then press the hub fully into the bearing.
9 Check that the hub spins freely in the
bearings, then refit the spindle carrier as
described in Section 2.

6

Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.

Suspension and steering systems  10•5

4.6  Using home-made tools to fit the outer

bearing assembly to the spindle carrier

4.4  Using a punch to remove the hub

bearing outer race from the spindle carrier

10

A

Steel tube

B Spindle carrier
C Bearing

D Steel tube
E

Flat washer

F

Threaded bolt