Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual - part 3
OHV engine 2A•13
20.9 Bearing shell tab engages with
20.12 Lubricate the bearing shells
20.13 Fitting the crankshaft
groove (arrowed)
holes, while only the centre main bearing cap
fitting the retaining bolts smear them with
half-shells has an oil duct hole.
jointing compound and then tighten to the
12 When the shells are fully located in the
specified torque wrench setting. Check that
crankcase and bearing caps, lubricate them
the bearing cap is exactly flush with the end
with clean engine oil (see illustration).
face of the crankcase as it is tightened.
13 Carefully install the crankshaft into
18 Now rotate the crankshaft and check that
position in the crankcase (see illustration).
it turns freely, and shows no signs of binding
14 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
or tight spots. Check that the crankshaft
journals and then refit the centre main bearing
endfloat is within the limits specified using a
cap (see illustration). Tighten the retaining
feeler blade as shown (see illustration). No
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
provision is made for adjusting crankshaft
15 Locate the new oil seal onto the rear end
endfloat; if it is outside the specified limits, the
of the crankshaft, and apply jointing
most likely reasons are wear or incorrect
20.14 Fitting the centre main bearing cap
compound to the block mating flange. Also fill
regrinding (assuming that the correct shells
the grooves on both sides of the rear main
have been fitted).
bearing cap with sealant (see illustrations).
engine revs increase - and again by loss of oil
16 Fit the rear main bearing cap and tighten
21 Engine components -
pressure.
the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see
4 If the crankshaft requires regrinding take it
examination and renovation
illustration).
to an engine reconditioning specialist, who
2A
17 Fit the front main bearing cap, but before
will machine it for you and supply the correct
Crankshaft
undersize bearing shells.
5 On some engines, the crankshaft journal
1 Examine the crankpin and main journal
diameters are machined undersize in
surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches, and
production to allow for greater manufacturing
check the ovality and taper of the crankpins
tolerances.
and main journals. If the bearing surface
dimensions do not fall within the tolerance
Big-end and main bearing shells
ranges given in the Specifications at the
6 Inspect the big-end and main bearing shells
beginning of this Chapter, the crankpins
for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and
and/or main journals will have to be reground.
scratches. The bearings should be matt grey
2 Big-end and crankpin wear is accompanied
in colour. With lead-indium bearings, should a
by distinct metallic knocking, particularly
trace of copper colour be noticed, the
noticed when the engine is pulling from low
bearings are badly worn as the lead bearing
revs, and some loss of oil pressure.
material has worn away to expose the indium
3 Main bearing and main journal wear is
20.15a Crankshaft rear oil seal
underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in
accompanied by severe engine vibration
this condition or if there are any signs of
rumble
- getting progressively worse as
scoring or pitting.
20.15b Fill the rear main bearing cap
20.16 Fitting the rear main bearing cap
20.18 Checking the crankshaft endfloat
grooves with sealant
2A•14 OHV engine
suitable for re-use. Check for cracks, damage
or damage. If this is badly worn it will mean
You are strongly advised to
to the piston ring grooves and lands, and
renewing the camshaft.
renew the bearings -
scores or signs of picking-up the piston walls.
28 The thrust plate (which also acts as the
regardless of their condition
18 Clean the ring grooves using a piece of
locating plate) should not be ridged or worn in
- at time of major overhaul.
old piston ring ground to a suitable width and
any way. If it is, renew it.
Refitting used bearings is a false
scrape the deposits out of the grooves, taking
economy.
Timing chain sprockets and
care not to remove any metal or score the
tensioner
piston lands. Protect your fingers - piston
7 The undersizes available are designed to
rings are sharp.
29 Examine the teeth of both sprockets for
correspond with crankshaft regrind sizes. The
19 Check the rings in their respective bores.
wear. Each tooth is the shape of an inverted V
bearings are in fact, slightly more than the
Press the ring down to the unworn lower
and if the driving (or driven) side is concave in
stated undersize as running clearances have
section of the bore (use a piston to do this,
shape, the tooth is worn and the sprocket
been allowed for during their manufacture.
and keep the ring square in the bore).
should be renewed. The chain should also be
Measure the ring end gap and check that it is
renewed if the sprocket teeth are worn. It is
Cylinder bores
within
the tolerance allowed
(see
sensible practice to renew the chain anyway.
8 The cylinder bores must be examined for
Specifications). Also check the ring’s side
30 Inspect the chain tensioner, which is
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
clearance in its groove. If these
automatic in operation. The most important
carefully examining the top of the cylinder
measurements exceed the specified
item to check is the shoe which wears against
bores. If they are at all worn a very slight ridge
tolerances the rings will have to be renewed,
the chain. If it is obviously worn, scratched or
will be found on the thrust side. This marks
and if the ring grooves in the pistons are worn
damaged in any way, then it must be
the top of the piston travel. The owner will
new pistons may be needed.
renewed. Check the spring for signs of wear
have a good indication of the bore wear prior
20 Proprietary piston rings are available
and renew the unit if generally worn or
to dismantling the engine, or removing the
which are reputed to reduce oil consumption
defective, or when a new chain is being fitted.
cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption
due to bore wear without the expense of a
Valve rocker arms, pushrods and
accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust
rebore. Depending on the degree of wear, the
tappets
can be caused by worn cylinder bores and
improvement produced by fitting such rings
piston rings.
may be short-lived.
31 Each rocker arm has three wearing
9 Measure the bore diameter across the
21 If new rings (or pistons and rings) are to
surfaces, namely the pushrod recess, the
block and just below any ridge. This can be
be fitted to an existing bore the top ring must
valve stem contact, and the centre pivot
done with an internal micrometer or a dial
be stepped to clear the wear ridge at the top
recess. If any of these surfaces appear
gauge. Compare this with the diameter of the
of the bore, or the bore must be de-ridged.
severely grooved or worn the arm should be
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
22 Check the clearance and end gap of any
renewed. If only the valve stem contact area is
wear. If no measuring instruments are
new rings, as described in paragraph 19. If a
worn it is possible to clean it up with a fine file.
available, use a piston from which the rings
ring is slightly tight in its groove it may be
32 If the rocker ball is pitted, or has flats in it,
have been removed and measure the gap
rubbed down using an oilstone or a sheet of
this should also be renewed.
between it and the cylinder wall with a feeler
carborundum paper laid on a sheet of glass. If
33 The nut on the rocker stud is a
blade.
the end gap is inadequate the ring can be
self-locking type. If it has been removed or
10 Refer to the Specifications. If the cylinder
carefully ground until the specified clearance
adjusted many times, the self-locking ring
wear exceeds the permitted tolerances then
is achieved.
may have become ineffective and the nut may
the cylinders will need reboring.
23 If new pistons are to be installed they will
be slack enough to turn involuntarily and alter
11 If the cylinders have already been bored
be selected from the grades available (see
the tappet clearance.
out to their maximum it may be possible to
Specifications), after measuring the bores as
34 The rocker studs should be examined to
have liners fitted. This situation will not often
described in paragraph
9. Normally the
ensure that the threads are undamaged and
be encountered.
appropriate oversize pistons are supplied by
that the oil delivery hole in the side of the stud
the repairer when the block is rebored.
at the base of the thread is clear. Place a
Connecting rods
24 Removing and refitting pistons on the
straight-edge along the top of all the studs to
12 Examine the mating faces of the big-end
connecting rod is a job for your dealer or
ensure that none is standing higher than the
caps to see if they have ever been filed in a
specialist repairer. Press equipment and a
rest. If any are, it means that they have pulled
mistaken attempt to take up wear. If so, the
means of accurately heating the connecting
out of the head some distance. They should
offending rods must be renewed.
rod will be required for removal and insertion
be removed and replaced with an oversize
13 Check the alignment of the rods visually,
of the gudgeon pin.
stud. As this involves reaming out the stud
and if all is not well, take the rods to your local
hole to an exact size to provide an
agent for checking on a special jig.
Camshaft and bearings
interference fit for the replacement stud, you
25 With the camshaft removed, examine the
should seek professional advice and
Pistons and piston rings
bearings for signs of obvious wear and pitting.
assistance to ensure that the new oversize
14 If the pistons and/or rings are to be
If there are signs, then the three bearings will
stud is securely fitted at the correct angle.
re-used, remove the rings from the pistons.
need renewal. This is not a common
35 Any pushrods which are bent should be
Three strips of tin or 0.38 mm feeler blades
requirement and to have to do so is indicative
renewed. On no account attempt to straighten
should be prepared and the top ring then
of severe engine neglect at some time. As
them. They are easily checked by rolling over
sprung open just sufficiently to allow them to
special tools are necessary to do this work
a perfectly flat surface such as a sheet of
be slipped behind the ring. The ring can then
properly, it is recommended that it is done by
glass.
be slid off the piston upwards without scoring
your dealer. Check that the bearings are
36 Examine the bearing surfaces of the
or scratching the piston lands.
located properly so that the oilways from the
tappets which lie on the camshaft. Any
15 Repeat the process for the second and
bearing housings are not obstructed.
indentation in these surfaces or any cracks
third rings.
26 The camshaft itself should show no marks
indicate serious wear and the tappets should
16 Mark the rings or keep them in order so
on either the bearing journals or the profiles. If
be renewed. Thoroughly clean them out,
they may be refitted in their original locations.
it does, it should be renewed.
removing all traces of sludge. It is most
17 Inspect the pistons to ensure that they are
27 Examine the skew gear for signs of wear
unlikely that the sides of the tappets will prove
OHV engine 2A•15
worn but, if they are a very loose fit in their
flows into galleries drilled in the engine block
bolts, which are accessible from below.
bores and can readily be rocked, they should
to feed the main bearings on the crankshaft
13 Secure the lifting tackle to the engine and
be exchanged for new ones. It is very unusual
and the moving components of the cylinder
take its weight.
to find any wear in the tappets, and any wear
head. Oil is bled from the main bearing
14 Support the gearbox with a jack or blocks,
present is likely to occur at very high
journals in the crankshaft to supply the
then remove the right-hand mounting
mileages, or in cases or neglect. If the tappets
big-end bearings.
completely.
are worn, examine the camshaft carefully as
Therefore, the bearings which receive
15 Remove the remaining engine-to-clutch
well!.
pressure lubrication are the main crankshaft
housing bolts.
bearings, the big-end bearings, the camshaft
16 Make sure that no attachments have been
Flywheel
bearings, and the rocker arms.
overlooked, then carefully draw the engine
37 If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are
The remaining moving parts receive oil by
away from the clutch housing and lift it out.
badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will
splash or drip feed and these include the
be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new
timing chain and associated items, the
Refitting
one.
distributor and fuel pump drive, the tappets,
17 Refit in the reverse order to removal,
38 Either split the ring with a cold chisel after
the valve stems and to a certain extent the
referring to the appropriate Chapters for
making a cut with a hacksaw blade between
pistons.
guidance if necessary. If the clutch has been
two teeth, or use a soft-headed hammer (not
The lubrication system incorporates two
disturbed, make sure that the driven plate is
steel) to knock the ring off, striking it evenly
safeguards. The first is a pressure operated
centralised (Chapter 6), otherwise it will not be
and alternately at equally spaced points. Take
ball valve situated in the gallery between the
possible to refit the clutch input shaft.
great care not to damage the flywheel during
oil and oil filter. This is in effect a filter bypass
18 Refer to Section 24 before starting the
this process, and protect your eyes from flying
valve and allows oil to pass directly into the
engine.
fragments.
engine block gallery, downstream of the filter,
39 Clean and polish with emery cloth four
when the filter is clogged up and resists the
24 Engine - initial start-up after
evenly spaced areas on the outside face of
flow of oil.
the new starter ring.
The second system is an oil pressure relief
overhaul
40 Heat the ring evenly with a flame until the
valve, located in the oil pump casing, which
polished portions turn dark blue. Alternatively
controls the oil pressure to the specified
1 Make sure the battery is fully charged and
heat the ring in a bath of oil to a temperature
maximum.
that all lubricants, coolant and fuel are
of
200°C. (If a naked flame is used take
replenished.
adequate fire precautions.) Hold the ring at
2 If the fuel system has been dismantled it will
this temperature for five minutes and then
23 Engine - removal and refitting
require several revolutions of the engine on
quickly fit it to the flywheel, so the chamfered
the starter motor to pump the petrol up to the
portion of the teeth faces the gearbox side of
carburettor.
the flywheel. Wipe all oil off the ring before
3 As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep
Removal
2A
fitting it.
it going at a fast tickover only (no faster) and
1 The makers recommend that the engine be
41 The ring should be tapped gently down
bring it up to the normal working temperature.
removed from above, leaving the gearbox in
onto its register and left to cool naturally when
4 As the engine warms up there will be odd
the vehicle.
the contraction of the metal on cooling will
smells and some smoke from parts getting
2 Disconnect the battery positive and
ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit.
hot and burning off oil deposits. The signs to
negative terminals. Remove the bonnet
Great care must be taken not to overheat the
look for are leaks of water or oil which will be
(Chapter 11).
ring, indicated by it turning light metallic blue.
obvious if serious. Check also the exhaust
3 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4A).
If this happens the temper of the ring will be
pipe and manifold connections, as these do
4 Drain the cooling system
(Chapter
1).
lost.
not always ‘find’ their exact gastight position
Disconnect the coolant hoses from the water
42 If the driven plate contact surface of the
until the warmth and vibration have acted on
pump, thermostat housing and cylinder head.
flywheel is scored or on close inspection
them, and it is almost certain that they will
not forgetting the heater hoses.
shows evidence of small hair cracks, caused
need tightening further. This should be done,
5 Disconnect and plug the fuel pump feed
by overheating, it may be possible to have the
of course, with the engine stopped.
hose, and (when fitted) the fuel return hose.
flywheel surface ground provided the overall
5 When normal running temperature has
Be prepared for fuel spillage.
thickness of the flywheel is not reduced too
been reached adjust the engine idling speed,
6 Disconnect the throttle and choke cables
much. Consult a specialist engine repairer and
as described in Chapter 1, and check the
from the carburettor (Chapter 4A).
if it is not possible, renew the flywheel
valve clearances, as described in Section 7 of
7 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose,
complete.
this Chapter.
either from the servo or from the manifold.
43 If the needle bearing in the centre of the
Secure the hose so that it will not be
6 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes to
crankshaft flange is worn, fill it with grease
damaged.
see if any lubricant or coolant is dripping out
and tap in a close-fitting rod. Hydraulic
8 Release the electrical connectors for the oil
when the engine is stationary.
pressure will remove it. Tap the new bearing
pressure switch and the coil LT terminals.
7 Road test the car to check that the timing is
into position and apply a little grease.
Unplug the coil-to-distributor HT lead at the
correct and that the engine is giving the
distributor cap.
necessary smoothness and power. Do not
22 Engine lubrication system -
9 Disconnect the engine wiring harness
race the engine - if new bearings and/or
general description
multi-plug, pressing its locking device to
pistons have been fitted it should be treated
release it.
as a new engine and run in at a reduced
The engine lubrication system is quite
10 Withdraw the clutch input shaft
(see
speed for the first 500 miles (800 km).
conventional. A gear type oil pump draws oil
Chapter 6).
8 If many new internal components have
up from the sump, via the suction pipe and
11 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the
been fitted, it will be beneficial to change the
strainer, and pumps the oil under pressure in
manifold.
engine oil and oil filter after the first 1000 miles
the cartridge oil filter. From the oil filter the oil
12 Remove the three flywheel cover plate
(1600 km).
2B•1
Chapter 2 Part B:
OHC engines
Contents
Ancillary components - removal and refitting
5
Engine components - examination and renovation
21
Camshaft - removal and refitting
9
Engine dismantling and reassembly - general
4
Camshaft toothed belt - removal, refitting and adjustment
7
Engine lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems - general
Compression test - description and interpretation
2
description
22
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting
20
Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting
18
Crankshaft front oil seal - removal and refitting
17
Flywheel - removal and refitting
16
Crankshaft rear oil seal - removal and refitting
19
General description
1
Cylinder head - overhaul
10
General engine checks
See Chapter 1
Cylinder head - removal and refitting
8
Oil pressure regulator valve - removal and refitting
6
Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising
11
Oil pump - overhaul
14
Engine oil and filter - renewal
See Chapter 1
Oil pump - removal and refitting
13
Engine oil level check
See Weekly checks
Operations requiring engine removal
3
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul
24
Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting
15
Engine - removal and refitting
23
Sump - removal and refitting
12
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
Fairly easy, suitable
Fairly difficult,
Difficult, suitable for
Very difficult,
novice with little
for beginner with
suitable for competent
experienced DIY
suitable for expert
experience
some experience
DIY mechanic
mechanic
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
Type
Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled, single overhead camshaft,
2B
transversely mounted
Engine codes:
1.3 litre models
13N, 13NB or 13 S
1.4 litre models
14NV or C14NZ
1.6 litre models
16SH, 16SV or C16NZ
1.8 litre models
18E or 18SE
2.0 litre models
20NE, 20SEH, 20SER or C20NE
Note: The engine code forms the first digits of the engine number
Bore x Stroke:
1.3 litre models
75.0 x 73.4 mm
1.4 litre models
77.6 x 73.4 mm
1.6 litre models:
16SH engine
80.0 x 79.5 mm
16SV and C16NZ engine
79.0 x 81.6 mm
1.8 litre models
84.8 x 79.5 mm
2.0 litre models
86.0 x 86.0 mm
Capacity:
1.3 litre models
1297 cc
1.4 litre models
1389 cc
1.6 litre models
1598 cc
1.8 litre models
1796 cc
2.0 litre models
1998 cc
Firing order
1-3-4-2 (No.1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Crankshaft rotation
Clockwise
Compression ratio:
13N and 13NB engines
8.2 : 1
13S, 16SH, 20NE and C20NE engines
9.2 : 1
14NV or C14NZ
9.4 : 1
18E engine
9.5: 1
16SV, C16NZ, 18SE, 20SEH and 20SER engines
10.0 : 1
Camshaft toothed belt tension (using gauge KM-510-A):
1.3 and 1.4 litre
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre
New belt, cold
6.0
3.0
New belt, warm
8.0
8.0
Used belt, cold
5.0
3.0
Used belt, warm
7.5
8.0
2B•2 OHC engines
Cylinder head
Material
Light alloy
Maximum permissible distortion of sealing face
0.025 mm
Overall height of cylinder head
95.75 to 96.25 mm
Valve seat width:
Inlet:
All 1.3, 1.4, 1.6 litre and 18E engines
1.3 to 1.4 mm
18SE and all 2.0 litre engines
1.0 to 1.5 mm
Exhaust:
All 1.3, 1.4, 1.6 litre and 18E engines
1.7 to 1.8 mm
18SE and all 2.0 litre engines
1.7 to 2.2 mm
Valves and guides
Valve clearance
Automatic by hydraulic valve lifters (cam followers)
Valve length:
1.3 litre engine
105.3 mm
1.4 litre engine
105.0 mm
1.6 litre engines:
16SH engine
106.5 mm
16SV and C16NZ engines
101.5 mm
1.8 litre engines:
18E engine
106.5 mm
18SE engine
104.2 mm
2.0 litre engines
104.2 mm
Valve stem-to-guide clearance:
Inlet
Exhaust
1.3 and 1.4 litre engines
0.020 to 0.050 mm
0.040 to 0.070 mm
1.6 litre engine:
16SH and 16SV engines
0.015 to 0.042 mm
0.030 to 0.060 mm
C16NZ engine
0.020 to 0.050 mm
0.020 to 0.050 mm
1.8 litre engine:
18E engine
0.015 to 0.042 mm
0.030 to 0.060 mm
18SE engine
0.018 to 0.052 mm
0.040 to 0.070 mm
2.0 litre engine
0.018 to 0.052 mm
0.040 to 0.070 mm
Valve guide installed height:
1.3 and 1.4 litre engines
80.85 to 81.25 mm
All 1.6 litre and 18E engines
80.95 to 81.85 mm
18SE and all 2.0 litre engines
83.50 to 83.80 mm
Valve stem diameter:
Inlet
Exhaust
1.3 litre engine
7.000 to 7.010 mm
6.980 to 6.990 mm
1.4 litre engine
6.998 to 7.012 mm
6.978 to 6.992 mm
1.6 litre engine:
16SH and 16SV engines
7.795 to 7.970 mm
7.957 to 7.970 mm
C16NZ engine
6.998 to 7.012 mm
6.978 to 6.992 mm
1.8 litre engine:
18E engine
7.795 to 7.970 mm
7.957 to 7.970 mm
18SE engine
6.998 to 7.012 mm
6.978 to 6.992 mm
2.0 litre engine
6.998 to 7.012 mm
6.978 to 6.992 mm
Oversizes
0.075, 0.150, 0.250 mm
Valve guide bore diameter:
1.3 and 1.4 litre engines
7.030 to 7.050 mm
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
8.000 to 8.017 mm
Camshaft
Radial run-out
0.03 mm max
Endfloat
0.09 to 0.21 mm
Camshaft journal diameters:
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 (C16NZ) litre engines:
No 1
39.435 to 39.450 mm
No 2
39.685 to 39.700 mm
No 3
39.935 to 39.950 mm
No 4
40.125 to 40.200 mm
No 5
40.435 to 40.450 mm
1.6 litre (16SH and 16SV), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines:
No 1
42.455 to 42.470 mm
No 2
42.705 to 42.720 mm
No 3
42.955 to 42.970 mm
No 4
43.205 to 43.220 mm
No 5
43.455 to 43.470 mm
OHC engines 2B•3
Camshaft bearing (direct in housing) diameters:
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 (C16NZ) litre engines:
No 1
39.500 to 39.525 mm
No 2
39.750 to 39.775 mm
No 3
40.000 to 40.025 mm
No 4
40.250 to 40.275 mm
No 5
40.550 to 40.525 mm
1.6 litre (16SH and 16SV), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines:
No 1
42.500 to 42.525 mm
No 2
42.750 to 42.775 mm
No 3
43.000 to 43.025 mm
No 4
43.250 to 43.275 mm
No 5
43.500 to 43.525 mm
Piston rings
Number of piston rings
2 compression, 1 oil control
Ring end gap:
Compression
0.3 to 0.5 mm
Oil control (rail)
0.40 to 1.40 mm
Ring gap offset (to gap of adjacent ring)
180°
Gudgeon pins
Length:
1.3 and 1.4 litre engines
65 mm
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
70 mm
Diameter:
1.3 and 1.4 litre engines
20 mm
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
23 mm
Clearance in piston:
1.3 and 1.4 litre engines
0.007 to 0.010 mm
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
0.011 to 0.014 mm
Clearance in connecting rod
None (interference fit)
Crankshaft and bearings
Number of main bearings
5
Main bearing journal diameter:
2B
1.3, 1.4, and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
54.972 to 54.985 mm
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
57.982 to 57.995 mm
Crankpin diameter:
1.3, 1.4, and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
42.971 to 42.987 mm
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
48.971 to 48.987 mm
Undersizes
0.25 and 0.50 mm
Crankshaft endfloat:
1.3, 1.4, and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
0.1 to 2.0 mm
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
0.07 to 0.3 mm
Main bearing running clearance:
1.3, 1.4, and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
0.025 to 0.05 mm
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
0.015 to 0.04 mm
Big-end running clearance:
1.3, 1.4, and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
0.019 to 0.071 mm
1.6 (16SH) and 1.8 litre engines
0.019 to 0.063 mm
2.0 litre engine
0.006 to 0.031 mm
Big-end side-play:
1.3, 1.4, and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
0.11 to 0.24 mm
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
0.07 to 0.24 mm
Bearing shell identification:
Top shells:
Main bearings, standard
Brown
Main bearings, 0.25 mm undersize
Brown/blue
Main bearings, 0.5 mm undersize
Brown/white
Big-end bearings, standard
None
Big-end bearings, 0.25 mm undersize
Blue
Big-end bearings, 0.5 mm undersize
White
Bottom shells:
Main bearings, standard
Green
Main bearings, 0.25 mm undersize
Green/blue
Main bearings, 0.5 mm undersize
Green/white
Big-end bearings, standard
None
Big-end bearings, 0.25 mm undersize
Blue
Big-end bearings, 0.5 mm undersize
White
Main and big-end bearing journal out-of-round
0.04 mm max
Crankshaft radial run-out (at centre journal, shaft in block)
0.03 mm max
2B•4 OHC engines
Flywheel
Refinishing limit - depth of material which may be removed from
clutch friction surface
0.3 mm max
Lubrication system
Oil pump tolerances:
Teeth backlash
0.1 to 0.2 mm
Gear-to-housing clearance (endfloat):
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
0.08 to 0.15 mm
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
0.03 to 0.10 mm
Oil pressure at idle (engine warm)
1.5 bar
Torque wrench settings
Nm
lbf ft
Flywheel to crankshaft:
1.3 litre engine
60
44
1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines:
Stage 1
35
26
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 30 to 45º
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 (18E) engines:
Stage 1
50
37
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 25 to 35º
1.8 (18SE) and 2.0 litre engines:
Stage 1
65
48
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 30 to 45º
Driveplate to crankshaft
60
44
Main bearing cap bolts:
1.3 litre engine:
Bolts Part No. 11 082 602*
65
48
Bolts Part No. 90 215 694:
Stage 1
50
37
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 45 to 60º
1.6 (16SH) and 1.8 (18E) litre engine:
Bolts Part No. 90 215 047*
65
48
Bolts Part No. 90 234 048:
Stage 1
50
37
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 45 to 60º
1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines:
Stage 1
50
37
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 45 to 60º
1.8 (18SE) and 2.0 litre engines:
Stage 1
50
37
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 40 to 50º
*Use these bolts only if the angle-tightening bolts are not available
Oil pump relief valve cap
30
22
Oil pressure switch
30
22
Oil pump bolts
6
4
Oil drain plug
45
33
Sump pan bolts
5
4
Big-end cap bolts:
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines
Bolts with 15 mm thread length
28
21
Bolts with 40 mm thread length:
Stage 1
25
18
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 30º
1.6 (16SH) and 1.8 (18E) engines
45
33
1.8 (18SE) and 2.0 litre engines:
Stage 1
35
26
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 45º
Cylinder head bolts:
1.3, 1.4 litre and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines:
Stage 1
25
18
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 60º
Stage 3
Angle tighten a further 60°
Stage 4
Angle tighten a further 30°
Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then
Angle tighten a further 30°
1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines:
Stage 1
25
18
Stage 2
Turn bolt through 60°
Stage 3
Turn bolt through 60°
Stage 4
Turn bolt through 60º
Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then
Angle tighten a further 30º
OHC engines 2B•5
Torque wrench settings (continued)
Nm
lbf ft
Camshaft sprocket bolt
45
33
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engine:
Bolt with 23 mm thread length
55
41
Bolt with 30 mm thread length:
Stage 1
55
41
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 45 to 60º
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engine
20
15
Crankshaft sprocket bolt - 1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines:
Stage 1
130
96
Stage 2
Angle tighten a further 40 to 50º
Starter motor bolts:
1.3 litre engine
25
18
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines
45
33
Engine mounting bracket to crankcase
50
37
Engine mounting bracket to transmission
30
22
Engine mountings to bodyframe
40
30
Alternator bracket to block
40
30
Fuel pump to camshaft housing
18
13
Note: All bolts which are angle tightened must be renewed whenever they are disturbed
renew the crankshaft rear oil seal with the
Refitting
engine in the car, but this entails the use of the
1 General description
4 Clean out the plunger hole and reassemble
manufacturer’s special tools and it is quite a
using a new plug sealing washer.
difficult operation due to lack of working
clearance. For this reason this operation is
The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line
described with the engine removed.
7 Camshaft toothed belt -
overhead camshaft type,
mounted
transversely at the front of the car.
removal, refitting and adjustment
The crankcase is supported in five shell
4 Engine dismantling and
type main bearings. Thrustwashers are
reassembly - general information
Note: The following procedure will necessitate
incorporated in the centre main bearing to
re-positioning of the water pump which, in
control crankshaft endfloat.
turn, is likely to cause leakage from around the
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 5.
The connecting rods are attached to the
sealing flange. Minor leakage can normally be
crankshaft by horizontally split shell type main
rectified by using a proprietry radiator sealing
bearings, and to the pistons by gudgeon pins
5 Ancillary components - removal
product in the cooling system, although it is
2B
which are an interference fit in the connecting
and refitting
preferable to remove the water pump
rod small-end bore. The aluminium alloy
completely and fit a new sealing ring (for
pistons are fitted with three piston rings: two
further information see Chapter 3).
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 6. For fuel
compression rings and an oil control ring.
injection models, refer to the appropriate
Removal
The camshaft is driven by a toothed rubber
Sections of Chapter 4B.
belt from the crankshaft and operates the
1 Undo the belt cover retaining bolts (early
valves via rocker arms. The rocker arms are
models) or release the retaining clips (later
supported at their pivot end by hydraulic
6 Oil pressure regulator valve -
models) and remove the cover.
self-adjusting valve lifters (ball studs) which
removal and refitting
2 Use a socket or spanner on the crankshaft
automatically take up any clearance between
pulley to turn the crankshaft until No 1 piston is
the camshaft, rocker arm and valve stems.
at its firing point, indicated by the notch on the
The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed
Removal
crankshaft pulley being in line with the pointer
by a single spring and operate in guides
1 From just to the rear of the crankshaft
on the oil pump housing, and the mark on the
pressed into the cylinder head.
pulley, unscrew the pressure regulator valve
camshaft sprocket being in line with the rib on
Engine lubrication is by a gear type pump
and extract the spring and plunger.
the camshaft housing (see illustrations).
located in a housing attached to the front of
2 Renew the spring if it is distorted or weak
3 Slacken the alternator mounting and
the cylinder block. The oil pump is driven by
(compare it with a new one if possible).
adjustment bolts, move the alternator towards
the crankshaft, while the fuel pump
(on
3 If the plunger is scored, renew it.
the engine and remove its drivebelt. Where
carburettor models) and the distributor are
driven by the camshaft.
2 Compression test - description
and interpretation
Refer Chapter 2A, Section 2.
3 Operations requiring engine
removal
The design of the engine is such that great
accessibility is afforded and it is only necessary
to remove the engine for attention to the
7.2a Crankshaft pulley notch and oil pump
7.2b Camshaft sprocket mark and housing
crankshaft and main bearings. It is possible to
pointer in alignment (arrowed)
rib (both arrowed) should be aligned
2B•6 OHC engines
7.4 Jamming the flywheel ring gear
7.8 Slackening a water pump bolt
7.9 Swivelling the water pump using a
spanner on the flats
necessary, unscrew the union nuts and
accessible through holes in the belt backplate
clockwise). Tighten the water pump bolts
disconnect the oil cooler pipes from the filter
(see illustration).
securely.
housing to improve access to the crankshaft
9 Swivel the pump to release the tension on
14 Rotate the crankshaft smoothly through
pulley.
the toothed belt. There are flats behind the
two complete turns clockwise until the timing
4 On 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre
pump sprocket for this purpose
(see
marks are realigned (see illustration 7.11).
engines, release the crankshaft pulley central
illustration). Note the belt’s running direction
15 Slacken the water pump bolts and rotate
bolt without disturbing the set position of the
if it is to be used again, then slip it off the
the pump anti-clockwise slightly until the
crankshaft. To prevent the crankshaft turning
sprockets. At this point, also note the
automatic tensioner arm is positioned in the
it may be sufficient to engage a gear (manual
statement at the beginning of this Section.
centre of backplate notch (see illustration).
gearbox only) and apply the handbrake; a
10 A new belt, or one which is to be re-used,
When the tensioner is correctly positioned,
better way is to remove the flywheel bottom
must not be kinked or be contaminated with
tighten the water pump bolts to the specified
cover plate and jam the flywheel ring gear with
oil, grease etc
torque setting.
a large screwdriver or a tyre lever
(see
16 Rotate the crankshaft through two more
Refitting
illustration). Remove the bolt and the pulley.
complete turns clockwise (so that the timing
5 On 1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines,
Later (June 1990 onwards) 1.4 litre
marks are aligned again) and check that the
remove the four Allen screws which secure
and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre
tensioner arm and backplate notch are still
the pulley to the sprocket. Remove the pulley.
engines
correctly aligned. If not, repeat the operation
6 On all models, drain the cooling system as
in paragraph 15.
11 Fit the new belt without disturbing the set
described in Chapter 1.
17 Once the tensioner position is correct,
position of the crankshaft and camshaft
7 On later (June 1990 onwards) 1.4 litre and
remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
sprockets. Apply some tension by moving the
1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines which are
18 Refit all disturbed components by
water pump and check that the timing marks
fitted with a spring-loaded automatic
reversing the removal sequence. Adjust the
tensioner, lock the tensioner in its slackest
are correctly aligned (see illustration).
auxiliary drivebelt and refill the cooling system
position. To do this move the tensioner
12 Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt and
as described in Chapter 1.
indicator arm clockwise until the holes in the
withdraw the locking rod from the spring-
baseplate and arm align and lock the
loaded automatic tensioner.
All other models
tensioner in position with a suitable rod (see
13 Rotate the water pump and set the belt
19 Fit the new belt without disturbing the set
illustration 7.15).
tension so that the automatic tensioner
position of the crankshaft and camshaft
8 On all models, slacken the three bolts
indicator arm and backplate holes are aligned
sprockets. Apply some tension by moving the
which secure the water pump. The bolts are
(the tensioner arm will have moved fully
water pump.
7.11 On 1.4 and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre engines, align the
7.15 Camshaft toothed belt tensioner indicator arm (1), baseplate
camshaft sprocket mark with the backplate rib and the crankshaft
(2) and locking holes - later 1.4 litre and 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ) litre
sprocket (1) is aligned with the backplate/oil pump housing
engines
groove (2)
OHC engines 2B•7
13 Disconnect the HT leads, identifying them
if necessary. Remove the distributor cap and
the distributor itself, (Chapter 5).
14 Disconnect the temperature gauge wire
from the sender on the thermostat housing or
inlet manifold.
15 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe(s) from the
exhaust manifold.
16 Following the reverse sequence to that
shown in illustration 8.26a, slacken each
cylinder head bolt by a quarter turn. Following
the same order, slacken each bolt by a half
turn, then remove them completely. The bolts
7.24 Checking the belt tension by twisting
should by discarded, and new ones used for
it between the water pump and camshaft
refitting.
sprockets
17 Lift off the camshaft housing and
camshaft, disconnecting any breather hoses
25 When adjustment is correct, tighten the
which are connected to the housing.
7.21 Checking the camshaft toothed belt
water pump bolts to the specified torque.
18 Lift off the cylinder head using the
tension with gauge KM-510-A
Refit and secure the belt cover.
manifolds as handles if it is stuck. Do not prise
26 Refit and tension the alternator drivebelt
20 Refit the crankshaft pulley and check that
between the head and block or damage may
and refill the cooling system, both as
the pulley and camshaft sprocket marks are
result.
described in Chapter 1. Refit the flywheel
still correctly aligned (paragraph 2). If not,
19 Remove the rocker arms and thrust pads
bottom cover if it was removed.
release the belt tension and align the
from the cylinder head. Withdraw the
sprockets correctly. Tighten the crankshaft
hydraulic valve lifters and immerse them in a
8 Cylinder head - removal and
container of clean engine oil to avoid any
pulley bolt to the specified torque, using
locking compound on the bolt threads.
refitting
possibility of them draining. Keep all
21 To adjust the tension of the belt, ideally
components in their original order if they are
the tension gauge specified by the makers
to be refitted (see illustration).
Removal
20 If the cylinder head has been removed for
(KM-51 0-A) should be used (see illustration).
If this is available, proceed as follows.
Note: The procedure given here is for
decarbonising or for attention to the valves,
22 Turn the crankshaft through at least half a
carburettor models. The procedure for fuel
hydraulic valve lifters and springs, reference
turn in the normal direction of rotation. Set the
injection models is similar; refer to Chapter 4B
should be made to Sections 10 and 11.
tension gauge, apply it to the ‘slack’ side of
for details of fuel injection component removal
Refitting
2B
the belt (above the alternator) and release it.
and wiring disconnection.
Read the gauge and compare the figure with
1 The cylinder head may only be removed
21 Before refitting the cylinder head, ensure
that given in the Specifications.
when the engine is cold, otherwise there is a
that the block and head mating faces are
spotlessly clean and dry with all traces of old
23 If adjustment is necessary, move the
risk of distortion.
gasket removed. Use a scraper to do this, but
water pump to increase or decrease belt
2 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
take care to cover the water passages and
tension, rotate the crankshaft through one full
3 Remove the air cleaner, (Chapter 4).
other openings with masking tape or rag to
turn and take another gauge reading. Repeat
4 Drain the cooling system, (Chapter 1).
prevent dirt and carbon falling in. Remove all
as necessary until the desired tension is
5 Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses
traces of oil and water from the bolt holes
achieved.
from the cylinder head and inlet manifold.
otherwise hydraulic pressure created by the
24 In the absence of the belt tension gauge,
6 Disconnect and plug the fuel lines and
bolts being screwed in could crack the block
an approximation to the correct tension can
unbolt the fuel pump. Also disconnect the fuel
or give inaccurate torque settings. Ensure that
be judged by twisting the belt in the middle of
return line from the T-piece or carburettor. Be
the bolt threads are clean and dry.
its
‘slack’ side (between water pump and
prepared for fuel spillage.
22 When all is clean locate a new gasket on
camshaft sprocket). It should just be possible
7 Unbolt and remove the camshaft cover,
the block so that the worn OBEN or TOP can
to twist the belt through 9û ° (a quarter turn)
noting the location of the clips which secure
be read from above (see illustration). Do not
by hand (see illustration), A belt which is too
the HT leads and fuel lines. Also disconnect
use any jointing compound on the gasket.
tight will normally be heard to hum or honk
the breather hose (when fitted). Recover the
23 Refit the hydraulic valve lifters, thrust
when running,
gasket.
pads and rocker arms to the cylinder head in
8 Disconnect the control cables and electrical
cables (as applicable) from the carburettor,
referring to Chapter 4A if necessary.
9 Release the coolant pipe bracket at the inlet
manifold.
10 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
11 Slacken the alternator pivot bolt, remove
the adjusting strap bolt at the engine end and
remove the alternator drivebelt.
12 Align the timing marks, slacken the
camshaft toothed belt and remove it from the
camshaft sprocket, as described in Section 7.
Unless it is wished to remove the belt entirely,
8.19 Removing a rocker arm
there is no need to remove the crankshaft
8.22 Head gasket must be fitted with the
pulley.
word OBEN (or TOP) uppermost
2B•8 OHC engines
Inlet
Flywheel
end
8.26b Using a marked card to measure
angular rotation when tightening cylinder
head bolts
Exhaust
8.26a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
9 Camshaft - removal and
their original positions. If new hydraulic valve
each side of the spacer. Reconnect the fuel
refitting
lifters are being used, or if they were
supply and return lines.
dismantled for cleaning, immerse each one in
32 Refit and tension the camshaft toothed
a container of clean engine oil and compress
belt, as described in Section 7, then refit the
Removal
it (by hand) several times to charge it.
belt cover.
1 The camshaft can only be removed without
24 Locate the cylinder head on the block so
33 Refit and tension the alternator drivebelt,
disturbing the housing if special tool 603 850,
that the positioning dowels engage in their
as described in Chapter 1.
or equivalent, is available to depress the cam
holes.
34 Refit the coolant hoses and refill the
followers whilst the camshaft is withdrawn.
25 Apply a uniform bead of jointing
cooling system, as described in Chapter 1.
2 Assuming that the special tool is not
compound to the mating face of the cylinder
Secure the coolant pipe bracket to the inlet
available, the camshaft housing must be
head and lower the camshaft housing into
manifold.
removed. Since the cylinder head bolts will be
place. Position the sprocket with the timing
35 Reconnect the throttle and choke cables
removed, it would certainly be good practice
marks aligned.
to the carburettor, as described in Chapter
to fit a new cylinder head gasket; however, if
26 Fit the new cylinder head bolts and
4A. On models with automatic choke,
the cooling system is drained and the housing
tighten them in the order shown, in the stages
reconnect the electrical lead to the choke.
is removed gently, there is a good chance that
given in the Specifications. The required
36 Refit the brake servo vacuum hose, the
the head gasket seal will not be broken. It is
angular measurement can be marked on a
temperature gauge wire and the crankcase
the reader’s choice whether to undertake the
card and then placed over the bolt as a guide
breather hose(s).
extra work of renewing the head gasket as a
to the movement of the bolt
(see
37 Check that nothing has been overlooked,
precaution, or to risk the vexation of finding
illustrations).
then refit the air cleaner.
that the old gasket has
‘blown’ after
27 Refit the distributor, as described in
38 Reconnect the battery and start the
reassembly.
Chapter 5.
engine. There may be considerable valve gear
3 With the camshaft housing removed, as
28 Refit and secure the exhaust downpipe(s).
noise until the hydraulic tappets pressurise
described in Section 8, clamp the cylinder
Apply a little anti-seize compound to the
with oil.
head with four head bolts and some spacers if
bolts.
39 Run the engine until it reaches normal
the head is not to be disturbed
(see
29 Refit the camshaft cover, using a new
operating temperature, then check the ignition
illustration).
gasket. Tighten the bolts in diagonal
timing, as described in Chapter 5.
4 Undo the camshaft sprocket bolt, using an
sequence, remembering to fit the HT lead and
40 Switch off the engine, immediately
open-ended spanner on the flats of the
fuel line brackets (see illustrations).
remove the air cleaner and tighten the cylinder
camshaft to stop the shaft turning. Remove
30 Reconnect the HT leads and refit the
head bolts through the final specified angle,
the bolt, washer and sprocket.
distributor cap.
following the outward spiral pattern previously
5 At the other end of the housing, remove the
31 Refit the fuel pump, using new gaskets on
used. No further tightening is necessary.
two Allen screws which secure the thrust
8.29a Fitting a new camshaft cover gasket
8.29b HT lead bracket is secured by one
9.3 Cylinder head bolt, with washers and
of the camshaft cover bolts
nuts for spacers, used to clamp head
OHC engines 2B•9
9.5a Removing the Allen screws which
9.5b Removing the camshaft thrust plate
9.6 Removing the camshaft from the
secure the camshaft thrust plate
housing
plate. Push the camshaft rearwards and
10 Refit the thrust plate and tighten its
15 Change the engine oil (but not the filter,
extract the plate (see illustrations).
screws. Check the camshaft endfloat using a
unless due in any case) approximately 1000
6 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
feeler blade (see illustration). If the endfloat
km after fitting a new camshaft.
distributor end of the housing. Be careful not
exceeds that specified, renew the thrust plate.
to damage the bearing surfaces in the housing
11 Refit the belt backplate
(where
(see illustration).
necessary).
10 Cylinder head - overhaul
7 Where necessary, undo the bolts which
12 Refit the camshaft sprocket, engaging the
secure the belt cover backplate and remove
peg on the shaft with the hole in the sprocket.
the plate (see illustration).
Tighten the sprocket bolt to the specified
1 With the cylinder head removed, clean
away external dirt.
torque, holding the camshaft as before (see
Refitting
2 Remove the valves, springs and associated
illustrations).
8 Prise out the oil seal with a screwdriver.
13 Refit the camshaft housing, (Section 8).
components, as described in Section 9 of
Drive in a new seal until it is flush with the
14 If a new camshaft has been fitted, it is
Chapter 2A. Note that both inlet and exhaust
housing, using a piece of wood or a suitably
most important to observe the following
valve springs have seats, but they are
sized socket (see illustrations).
running-in schedule
(unless otherwise
different (see illustration).
9 Liberally lubricate the camshaft bearings
specified by the manufacturer) immediately
3 Inspect the valves, valve seats, guides and
and the oil seal lip. (If special lubricant has
after start-up:
springs, also as described in Section
9,
been supplied with a new camshaft, use it;
One minute at 2000 rpm
Chapter 2A. Regrind or renew as necessary.
otherwise use clean engine oil, perhaps with a
One minute at 1500 rpm
4 Check the head sealing surface for warping
2B
molybdenum disulphide additive.) Carefully
One minute at 3000 rpm
by placing in on a piece of plate glass, or
insert the camshaft.
One minute at 2000 rpm
using a straight-edge and feeler blades. Slight
9.7 Camshaft belt cover backplate (1.3
9.8a Prising out the camshaft housing oil
9.8b Fitting a new camshaft housing oil
litre engine shown)
seal
seal
9.10 Checking the camshaft endfloat
9.12a Fitting the camshaft sprocket. Peg
9.12b Tightening the camshaft sprocket
locating hole is arrowed
bolt
2B•10 OHC engines
10.2 Exhaust valve spring rotator seat (A)
10.6 Hydraulic valve lifter components
10.12 Locate the ball (1) on its seat (2) in
and inlet valve spring seat (B)
the base of the plunger
1 Collar
5 Plunger cap
distortion, or corrosion, may be corrected by
2 Plunger
6 Large spring
(external surfaces). Thoroughly dry all the
machining. Seek expert advice if this is
3 Ball
7 Cylinder
components using a lint-free cloth. Carefully
necessary: the removal of too much metal will
4 Small spring
examine the springs for damage or distortion-
render the head useless.
the complete valve lifter must be renewed if
the components are unserviceable, the
5 Check the valve lifter bores in the cylinder
the springs are not in perfect condition.
complete assembly must be renewed (see
head for wear which, if evident, will mean
11 Lubricate the components sparingly with
illustration).
renewal of the cylinder head. Also check the
clean engine oil of the correct grade, then
7 Carefully pull the collar from the top of the
valve lifter oil supply holes in the cylinder head
reassemble as follows.
valve lifter cylinder. It should be possible to
for any sign of contamination.
12 Invert the plunger, and locate the ball on
remove the collar by hand-if a tool is used,
6 On engines which have covered a high
its seat in the base of the plunger
(see
take care not to distort the collar.
mileage, or for which the service history
illustration).
8 Withdraw the plunger from the cylinder, and
(particularly oil changes) is suspect, it is
13 Locate the smaller spring on its seat in the
recover the string.
possible for the valve lifters to suffer internal
plunger cap, then carefully refit the cap and
9 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise
contamination, which in extreme cases may
spring, ensuring that the spring locates on the
the cap from the base of the plunger. Recover
result in increased engine top-end noise and
ball. Carefully press around the flange of the
the spring and ball from under the cap, taking
wear. To minimise the possibility of problems
cap, using a small screwdriver if necessary,
care not to lose them as the cap is removed.
occurring later in the life of the engine, it is
until the flange is securely located in the
10 Carefully clean all the components using
advisable to dismantle and clean the hydraulic
groove in the base of the plunger
(see
paraffin or a suitable solvent, paying particular
valve lifters as follows whenever the cylinder
illustrations).
attention to the machined surfaces of the
head is overhauled. Note that no spare parts
14 Locate the larger spring over the plunger
cylinder
(internal surfaces), and piston
are available for the valve lifters, and if any of
cap, ensuring that the spring is correctly
seated, and slide the plunger and spring
assembly into the cylinder (see illustrations).
15 Slide the collar over the top of the
plunger, and carefully compress the plunger
by hand, until the collar can be pushed down
to engage securely with the groove in the
cylinder (see illustration).
16 On some engines an oil pressure
regulating valve in the head stabilises the oil
pressure applied to the valve lifters
(see
illustration). To renew the valve, access is
gained via the circular plug covering the end
of the valve. The old valve must be crushed
and its remains extracted, and a thread (M10)
10.13a Spring (1) located in plunger cap,
10.13b Locate the cap flange in the
cut in the valve seat to allow removal using a
and ball (2) located on seat in plunger
plunger groove
suitable bolt. A new valve and plug can then
10.14a Locate the spring over the plunger
10.14b . . . then slide the plunger and
10.15 Slide the collar (1) over the top of
cap . . .
spring assembly into the cylinder
the plunger and engage with the groove (2)
OHC engines 2B•11
10.16 Cylinder head oil pressure
12.6 Oil pick-up support bracket
12.7a Removing the oil baffle plate. This
regulating valve (arrowed)
model has two cork gaskets . . .
be driven into position. Care must be taken to
sump from side to side with a hide or plastic
keep foreign matter and swarf out of the
mallet to release the joint face.
13 Oil pump - removal and
oilways; it is probably best to have the valve
6 On later models, where necessary, unbolt
refitting
renewed by a GM dealer if necessary.
the oil pick-up pipe support bracket (see
17 Refit the valves, springs etc, as described
illustration). If the engine is in the car, it will
in Section 9 of Chapter 2A. Remember to fit
be easier to remove the baffle plate if the oil
Removal
new valve stem seals.
pick-up pipe is removed completely.
1 Remove the camshaft toothed belt and the
18 On 1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines,
7 Remove the baffle plate and recover the
sump, as described in earlier Sections of this
take the opportunity to renew the thermostat
gasket(s). On some models a double-sided
Chapter.
housing sealing ring whilst the head is
rubber gasket is used; on other models there
2 Slacken and remove the crankshaft
removed.
are two cork gaskets (see illustrations).
sprocket centre bolt (if not already done - see
Section
7, paragraph
4) and remove the
Refitting
11 Cylinder head and pistons -
sprocket and spacers, noting their correct
8 On later models, where the baffle plate has
fitted locations. Extract the Woodruff key
decarbonising
been removed, ensure that the surfaces are
(where fitted) (see illustrations).
clean and dry and refit the plate using new
3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 10; bearing in
gasket(s) (as applicable). Refit the oil pick-up
toothed belt cover backplate. On later
mind also that the head is of light alloy
pipe bracket and securely tighten its retaining
models, in order to remove the backplate it
construction and is easily damaged.
bolts.
will first be necessary to remove the remaining
2B
9 On all models, thoroughly clean the sump in
camshaft toothed belt sprockets to allow this.
paraffin or a suitable solvent and remove all
4 Undo the two bolts securing the oil pick-up
12 Sump - removal and refitting
traces of external dirt and internal sludge.
pipe to the oil pump housing and the bolt
Scrape away the remains of the old gasket
securing the support bracket to the centre
from the sump and crankcase faces and
main bearing cap (see illustration). Remove
Removal
ensure that they are clean and dry.
the pick-up pipe. On models with an oil
1 Jack up the front of the car and support it
10 Apply jointing compound to the oil pump
cooler, slacken the union nuts and disconnect
housing joint, the crankcase mating face and
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
the pipes from the oil pump housing.
Support”).
the rear main bearing cap joint, then place a
5 Undo the retaining bolts and withdraw the
new gasket in position.
2 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container
oil pump housing from the front of the engine.
and refit the plug after draining.
11 Apply jointing compound to the sump
face and retaining bolt threads, place the
Refitting
3 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe(s) from the
exhaust manifold.
sump in position and refit the bolts.
6 Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting
Progressively tighten the bolts in a diagonal
4 Undo the bolts securing the flywheel cover
the following points.
plate to the transmission bellhousing and
sequence.
a) Ensure that the pump housing mating
12 Refit the exhaust downpipe(s) and
remove the plate.
faces are clean and place a new gasket
5 Undo the retaining bolts and lift away the
flywheel cover plate, lower the car to the
which is smeared with jointing compound
ground and fill the engine with oil.
sump. It will probably be necessary to tap the
on both sides in position.
12.7b . . . while this one has one double-
13.2a Removing the crankshaft sprocket
13.2b Woodruff key (arrowed) in
sided rubber gasket
crankshaft nose
2B•12 OHC engines
13.4 Oil pick-up pipe retaining bolts
13.6 Tape the crankshaft nose
14.1 Using an impact screwdriver to undo
(arrowed)
the oil pump rear cover screws
b) Steps must be taken to protect the seal
3 Check the endfloat between the gear outer
lips from damage or turning back on the
faces and the housing (see illustration).
16 Flywheel - removal and
shoulder at the front end of the
4 If any of the clearances are outside the
refitting
crankshaft. To do this, grease the seal lips
specified tolerance, renew the components as
and then bind tape around the crankshaft
necessary. Note that the outer gear face is
Refer to Chapter
2A, noting that the
to form a gentle taper (see illustration).
marked for position (see illustration).
flywheel securing bolts are hexagon-headed.
c) Refit the sump and camshaft toothed belt
5 The pressure regulator valve can be
On 1.6 (16SV and C16NZ), 1.8 (18SE) and all
and sprockets as described in earlier
unscrewed from the oil pump housing and the
2.0 litre engines note that it will be necessary
Sections of this Chapter.
components cleaned and examined
(see
to remove the transmission or engine in order
illustration).
to remove the flywheel. On all engines, on
6 Always renew the oil seal; a socket is useful
refitting, use thread locking compound on the
14 Oil pump - overhaul
to remove and install it (see illustration).
flywheel bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
15 Pistons and connecting rods
1 With the oil pump removed from the
vehicle, withdraw the rear cover. The
- removal and refitting
17 Crankshaft front oil seal -
cross-head fixing screws are very tight and an
removal and refitting
impact driver will be required to remove them
Proceed as described in Chapter 2A, noting
(see illustration).
also that the piston crowns are not marked to
2 Check the backlash between the inner and
show their direction of fitting, but the
Removal
outer gear teeth (see illustration).
underside of the piston is (see illustration).
1 Remove the camshaft toothed belt, as
14.2 Checking oil pump gear teeth
14.3 Checking oil pump gear endfloat
14.4 Gear outer face identification mark
backlash
(arrowed)
14.5 Oil pressure regulator valve
14.6 Fitting a new front oil seal
15.1 Large land (arrowed) faces the
components
flywheel end of the engine
OHC engines 2B•13
described in Section 7. On 1.6 (16SH), 1.8 and
2.0 litre models, note that it will also be
necessary to undo the crankshaft sprocket
centre bolt (see Section 7, paragraph 4) and
remove the sprocket and spacers, noting their
correct fitted locations.
2 On later models, remove the remaining
camshaft toothed belt sprockets then undo
the retaining bolts and remove the toothed
belt cover backplate.
3 Remove the crankshaft sprocket, using two
screwdrivers to lever it off if it is tight. Remove
the Woodruff key.
4 Punch or drill a small hole in the metal face
20.3 Identification number on No 3 main
20.7 TDC sensor contact pins (arrowed) in
of the oil seal, screw in a self-tapping screw
bearing cap
crankshaft web
and use this to lever out the seal. Several
components removed from it, as described in
clear. If possible blow the drillings out with
attempts may be necessary. Be careful not to
earlier Sections, the crankshaft can be
compressed air, and then inject clean engine
damage the sealing face of the crankshaft.
removed as follows.
oil through them to ensure that they are clear.
Refitting
2 Invert the engine so that it is standing on
9 Wipe the shell seats in the crankcase and
the top surface of the cylinder block.
bearing caps clean and then fit the upper
5 Apply PVC tape to the step on the
3 The main bearing caps are numbered 1 to 4
halves of the main bearing shells into their
crankshaft nose to protect the seal lip as it is
from the toothed belt end of the engine. The
seats.
fitted.
rear cap is not marked. To ensure that the
10 Note that there is a tag on the back of
6 Lubricate the lip of the seal and, using a
caps are fitted the correct way round, note
each bearing which engages with a groove in
suitable tube, tap the seal into its location.
that the numbers are read from the water
the shell seating in both crankcase and
Remove the masking tape.
pump side when the crankcase is inverted
bearing cap (see illustration).
7 Refit the toothed belt cover backplate,
(see illustration).
11 Wipe away all traces of protective grease
sprockets and belt as described in the earlier
4 Unscrew and remove the main bearing cap
on the new shells.
Sections of this Chapter.
bolts and tap off the caps. If the bearing shells
12 The central bearing shell also takes up the
are to be used again, keep them with their
crankshaft endfloat (see illustration). Note
18 Engine/transmission
respective caps. The original shells are
that the half shells fitted to the cylinder block
mountings - removal and
colour-coded and if used again must be
all have oil duct holes, while only the centre
refitting
returned to their original locations.
main bearing cap half shell has an oil duct
5 Note that the centre bearing shell
hole.
2B
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 17.
incorporates thrust flanges to control
13 When the shells are fully located in the
crankshaft endfloat.
crankcase and bearing caps, lubricate them
6 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
with clean engine oil.
19 Crankshaft rear oil seal -
Extract the upper half shells and again identify
14 Fill the lips of a new crankshaft oil seal
removal and refitting
their position in the crankcase if they are to be
with grease and fit it to the end of the
used again.
crankshaft (see illustration).
Remove the engine from the car, as
7 The rubber plug location adjacent to the
15 Carefully install the crankshaft into
described in Section 23 and renew the oil
bellhousing flange on the crankcase covers
position in the crankcase (see illustration).
seal. as described in Chapter 2A, Section 19.
the aperture for installation of a TDC sensor.
16 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
This sensor when connected to a suitable
journals and then refit the centre and
monitoring unit, indicates TDC from the
intermediate main bearing caps. Tighten the
20 Crankshaft and main bearings
position of the contact pins set in the
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench
- removal and refitting
crankshaft counterbalance weight
(see
setting (see illustrations).
illustration).
17 Coat the inner surfaces of the rear main
Removal
bearing cap with sealant to GM spec 15 04
Refitting
200/8 983 368. (This sealant is available in
1 With the engine removed from the car, as
8 Ensure that the crankcase and crankshaft
200 ml tubes from GM parts departments.) Fill
described in Section
23, and all the
are thoroughly clean and that all oilways are
the side grooves of the bearing cap with RTV
20.10 Main bearing shell correctly fitted,
20.12 Centre main bearing shell, showing
20.14 Crankshaft rear oil seal
with tag and groove (arrowed) engaged
thrust flanges