Jaguar XJ-S. Service manual - part 96

 
 

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TURNING RADIUS:  Dan Jensen reports, “I recently replaced the power steering racks in my ’83 XJ6 and ’84 XJ-S 
with rebuilt units.  After changeout, I noticed a significant, and undesirable, increase in the turning radius on the XJ6.  
This often made it difficult to make U-turns without backing up, and complicated parking.  A check with my local Jag 
specialist revealed the source of the problem.  Some point along the line, Jag added rack travel limiters as part of the 
inner ball joint lock tabs.  These were apparently installed to preclude potential rubbing of the tires on front end 
components after Jaguar changed the recommended tire size from 205/70 to 215/70.  I don’t know if this applied to the 
XJ-S as well, which had 215/70s specified.  By pulling back the inner ends of the rack boots, I could see the thicker 
locking tabs.  I unscrewed the inner ball joints and replaced the wide tabs with the narrower tabs.  This caused no 
noticeable change in toe-in since the thickness of the locking tab between the rack and ball joint is the same on both 
varieties of tabs.  This was a 10 minute job and fully restored the tighter turning radius I was used to.  I have not noticed 
any rubbing of tires on components with the 215/70’s on the car.  If others have what feels like a wide turning radius, 
you might want to examine one side of your rack to see what tabs are used.  Apparently rack rebuilders are not always 
careful about the VIN number and rack changes, but I cannot see how the limiters served any real purpose and, in fact, 
created a bit of a hazard in my case when making U-turns.” 

 

POWER STEERING PUMP:  According to XKs Unlimited, there have been three different power steering pumps used 
on the XJ-S.  Prior to 1976½, the part number was C28457, and the pulley was retained by a single nut in the center.  
From 1976½-1980, part number C45540 was used, and the pulley was bolted to a hub on the shaft with three bolts.  
Also, the high pressure line connection is sealed with an olive, visible when the hose is removed.  From 1980 on, part 
number EAC3167 was used and this pump looks just like its predecessor except that the high pressure line is sealed 
with an O-ring.  This last pump is referred to as the “metric pump”.  The same three units were used on other Jaguars of 
similar years. 

The XJ-S power steering pump is a standard GM Saginaw unit.  However, it is uncertain whether the Jaguar system 
operates at the same pressure as a GM; so, if you replace the original unit, it is suggested that you remove the pressure 
control valve from the Jaguar unit and install it in the new one.  The pressure control valve is easily removed by 
removing the outlet fitting and shaking the unit until it falls out. 

 

POWER STEERING PUMP TENSIONER BOLT:  The eye end of the threaded tensioner for the power steering pump 
is held to the engine with a double-ended bolt, C36196, through the timing chain cover.  Several people seem to have 
one problem or another with this bolt.  Peter Havas says, “I happen to be past master at this one, having had my pump 
come adrift at eye-watering speed.  The beast is a long bolt, with a 13mm head 8mm shaft, fine thread.  I had mine 
shear off at the front cover.  My fix was to purchase a length of 8mm threaded rod, and insert it into the hole, then 
double nut the bolt to the front cover, and finally re-assemble the eye bolt adding another nut at the end.”  Note that on 
early cars, this is probably a 5/16” UNF bolt instead of an 8mm.  Craig Sawyers:  “Watch the nut though; the old one 
on mine was (uniquely) BSF thread.  The new replacement one was UNF.  Don'tcha just love it?” 

Havas:  “As an aside, check the two big bolts holding the pump bracket to the engine.  My back bolt sheared off 
completely.” 

 

POWER STEERING FLUID:  According to the owner’s handbook, you’re supposed to put the same type fluid into the 
power steering unit that you put into the automatic transmission.  This is interesting, since the early cars with the Borg-
Warner automatics called for Type F fluid while the later cars with GM400 automatics call for Dexron 2D or III, and 
the power steering system didn’t change.  Apparently any ATF will do in the power steering system. 

Apparently Type G fluid was called out in some owner’s handbooks for the power steering.  “Type G is an obsolete 
designator for Dexron.  It’s so obsolete that nobody remembers what it was.” 

See the discussion on Dexron ATF’s on page 325. 

On the other hand, maybe you shouldn’t use any sort of ATF in the power steering system.  Jeb Boyd says, “I do 
believe you would be better off using power steering fluid in your power steering system. I was led to believe a few 

 
 

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years back when they were experimenting with various formulae for ATF that the additive that was P/S compatible was 
no longer in ATF.  I have been using power steering fluid exclusively ever since with no problems.” 

Joe Bialy concurs:  “I can't speak for Jaguar, but I do know for a fact that late model Ford Escorts had different fluids 
for the P/S and automatic transmissions when they left the factory.  I was never able to get a technical explanation other 
than it affected the long term well being of the vehicle.” 

Jim Isbell says, “A neighbor was having trouble with a leaking power steering rack on a 1990 Continental.  He is a 
shrimper and on his boat he uses a power steering pump connected to the engine to drive a hydraulic motor for 
retrieving his nets.  In that pump he uses 30 wt motor oil.  So when his cars steering started to leak he decided to try 
30wt motor oil.  It cured his leak.  I was skeptical of the life of the system with 30 wt motor oil in it but his experience 
with the boat made me take a "wait and see" attitude. 

“Well, two months later it's still leak free and still working. 

“But...something more interesting to me was that when I started reading on the fluids that were allowed in the steering 
and autopilot on my boat I noticed that the list, which starts with automotive power steering fluid, goes on to include 
motor oil of varying densities as well as almost any other semi-oil fluid you can imagine.  In other words, its not very 
particular what you put into it.  So maybe using motor oil to cure leaks in the power steering isn't so crazy after all.” 

 

DRAINING POWER STEERING FLUID:  Craig Sawyers says, “In trying to find the source of my leak, I found if you 
disconnect the hoses at the rack, it just obligingly trickles out (up your arm).  I realise that is easier in the UK, where 
you can get easy access to the unions, than in the US where they are well inaccessible.” 

 

POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS:  If your power steering system leaks, you should fix it.  Yeah, right!  You’re 
just gonna keep adding fluid, aren’t you?  Well, there is no shortage of products that claim to stop leaks in power 
steering systems -- but apparently there is only one product that actually will stop leaks in power steering systems.  John 
T. Richardson:  “I've came across a product that worked well for me on stopping power steering leaks and want to share 
it: Lucas power steering sealer.  While the name might scare you off, their product contains no electricity so it should 
work.  Their product appears to be a really thick, red coloured oil.   

“I recently  purchased a '91 Ford Explorer w\143K miles and a massive power steering pump leak.  It had to be filled up 
daily and always left puddles of fluid when stopped.  I tried this "snake oil" and the second bottle did the job.  I never 
expected such results!  No more leaks and the outside of the pump seal is only "damp".  Since then I have been using 
Lucas power steering sealer to top off the Jag pumps on an as-needed basis and that frequency has gone down.” 

Joe Montgomery:  “Having tried about every power steering sealer made, forget them all except Lucas.  I found Lucas 
at the local Pronto Auto Parts.  It is as thick as honey on a cold day.” 

George Harris:  “It works!  As a last resort, just until I get around to finding those d**n leaks, I thought I would try a 
bottle.  I had to drive my '88 XJ6 (XJ40) because the 'S' was off the road for rad R&R.  The PS reservoir was empty, so 
I emptied the bottle in it.  That brought it up to 'full cold'.  Since then, 2 weeks ago, I haven't had to add any PS fluid!  
Normally that's at least one complete refill.  Since then I did the same to the 'S', and same story!  Now does Lucas Oil 
Products make a stop leak fluid for the tranny and engine?” 

No, it’s not the Lucas we all know and love; the company that makes this stuff is: 

Lucas Oil Products 
13365 Estelle Street 
Corona, CA  91719 
1-800-342-2512   

Fax: 

+1 (909) 270-1902 

http://www.lucasoil.com

 

The “Power Steering Stop Leak” is available in some auto parts stores, including CarQuest.  When this author asked 
about it, the salesman was very enthusiastic about the product, claiming that if your power steering pump was old and 
worn and making noise you could add this stuff while the engine is idling and the noise will go away while you’re 

 
 

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adding it.  The directions on the bottle are simple enough: whenever the fluid level is down, top it up with this stuff.  
Keep doing that until the level doesn’t go down any more.  The bottle claims that “Results are usually immediate.” 

Lucas reportedly makes a good injector cleaner and hypoid oil, too.  Greg Meboe:  “The lady behind the counter swore 
by them, and said that the store stocked them for trucking fleets.” 

Dennis Kindig went another route:  “I had been nursing a power steering leak for over a year that required topping up 
an almost empty pump every week or so.  I switched power steering fluids and the leak has gone away.  I'm using 
Valvoline semi-synthetic power steering fluid with conditioner and stop leak (I can't remember whether the name is 
SynChron or SynPower, sorry).  This looks like standard power steering fluid so I don't feel like I'm pouring oil in my 
system.  It took a few weeks for everything to dry up but it did eliminate my leaks.” 

Peyton Gill didn’t fare as well.  “I tried something similiar to what Dennis described.  It may have been a different 
product because it was clear and very low viscosity...like water.  It was made by Valvoline and the label stated it was 
for steering rack leaks.  Well as usual I should have left well enough alone and added this product to stop a slight leak.  
Guess what happened???  Starting leaking like crazy.” 

 

POWER STEERING HOSE/TUBE CONFIGURATION:  The Jaguar Parts Catalogue ©1987, page 1G 07R, shows 
simple power steering piping for RHD cars in the illustration: lines go from pump to rack to cooler and back to pump.  
On the author’s ’83 LHD, the lines go from the pump to a metal tubing loop across the bottom front of the front 
suspension subframe and back, then to the rack, cooler and back to pump.  Jon Schrock says, “Jaguar changed the part 
for the XJ12 in April, 1978 (Service Bulletin 78-F-1) "to reduce high pressure noise" and presumably did it to the other 
models about the same time.  Specifically they went from a 14 inch line to a 40 inch one.  Both my '85 XJ-S and '77 
XJ12 have the longer line, but I suspect the latter acquired it after it left the factory.” 

The author found it helpful to remove the screws holding this loop to the front of the subframe, put 1/4” spacers behind 
them, and put them back in.  With the loop held tightly to the surface of the subframe, dirt would get caked all around it 
until you’d have to dig to see the tube.  With the tube held 1/4” away from the surface of the subframe, the dirt seems to 
fall away rather than build up.  The loop is probably not intended to provide any significant cooling -- there is still a 
dedicated cooler in the low pressure side of the circuit -- but improving airflow around this tube couldn’t hurt. 

 

POWER STEERING HOSE/TUBE REPLACEMENT (US-SPEC LHD):  Valery Danilov says, “The high pressure 
hose next to the exhaust manifold was cooked, and although appeared OK, was leaking badly.  After wiping it clean, I 
was able to see the ATF come right through the surface (not a single crack, but rather sponge effect!!!).  I would 
recommend you guys check yours, if it's not leaking, then wrap it with aluminum foil or something. 

William Earl says, “I just got my 1990 XJ-S back from the shop where I had two of the power steering hoses replaced.  
When I brought my car in, there was a 1988 XJ-S getting the same hoses replaced, and when I picked up my car, there 
was third XJ-S due in the next day for the same problem.  I am adding these hoses to my periodic maintenance list, 
probably at an 80000 mile interval.  The problem seems to be heat in the manifold area, even with the insulation around 
the hose.” 

Danilov:  “I bought a new hose from NAPA.  It is a simple bolt-on, replacing 2-piece original with a NAPA 1-piece 
design.  The new hose is identical in all respects to the old pipe-hose-pipe assembly, except that it cannot be taken 
apart.  It came in a fancy box with a new o-ring included.  Part number is NPS 7-1974.” 

Jim Moore adds that Jaguar has apparently combined those two pipes too:  “My high pressure side used to be a two-
piece arrangement.  Six years ago I replaced the half that went from the rack to join up with the front half.  Jag only 
sells the one piece now, but it was worth it; car used to growl at low rpm and hard turning, like parking.  The growling 
is gone now.” 

Miles Milbank had to replace this line, too.  “My problem is that my hi-press hose has been worn thru where it crosses 
over the sharp (!) fluid cooler fins in the return line - what a monumentally stupid design.”  Randy Wilson retorts:  “The 
faux-pas is with whoever did the last bit of work on the p/s hose.  The factory hose, with the original interlocks in place, 
clears the cooler just fine.” 

 
 

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Wilson goes on to describe the replacement procedure:  “Disconnect the hose from all other points.  Drop the rack 
down and back until you can get at the fitting.  I do not remove the cat.  It is not easy, especially starting the new hose 
without crossthreading the fitting.  Make sure the interlocks hook together properly.  Aftermarket hoses often do not 
have the interlock, and require some serious bending to duplicate the OEM hose. If the steel tube at the rack end of the 
hose is straight, it is wrong.” 

Of course, if the problem is with the hoses and not the metal tubes or fittings, you can rebuild these lines using suitable 
hose and EFI clamps, similarly to rebuilding the fuel lines (see page 242).  Although the pressure in power steering 
lines is higher than in the fuel lines, it’s no higher than any other hydraulic hose application; any industrial hose 
supplier can provide hose suitable for use with power steering fluid.  Greg Meboe says, “I just brought my old hose into 
a farm supply place and they made a new one for me in a matter of minutes.  Cheap too.”  The low-pressure line from 
the cooler back to the pump is nothing but hose and clamps to begin with. 

 

POWER STEERING HOSE/TUBE -- THE METAL PARTS FAIL, TOO:  Craig Sawyers says, “Mine seeps around 
where the pipe unions go into the pinion housing.  Fortunately on UK cars, these are easily accessible.  However, I've 
had them off a couple of times, and retightened them to varying degrees and it still leaks.  I threw in the towel and took 
the car to TWR Jaguar (Oxford UK) to have a chat with Denis, their chief technician.  Without even looking, he 
pronounced that the flared end of the pipe was cracked!  "Common problem" quoth he; "I bet you found that the more 
you tightened it, the worse the leak got."  Yup.  "and that it seeps around the pipe."  Yup.  "If you undo the unions, and 
clean them you will see a very fine crack on the flare".  Well, I haven't tried that yet, but I think he is probably right.  
Looks like I'm in for at least one new hose.” 

 

POWER STEERING HOSE/TUBE CHAFING (RHD):  Stefan Schulz reports on chafing problems on his RHD car: 
“...above the rack on the left is where the pipes go to the power steering pump.  On mine there is a designed-in problem 
where one of the pipes chafes against a bolt head.  This cost me two replacement pipes before I figured out what was 
going on.  No way to get around it with the Jaguar original parts. 

“My steering rack is a CBC5708N, which is the UK (RHD) sports pack rack.  The pipe is part of the high pressure hose 
assembly CAC3654 (same as the plain XJ-S).  Calling it either hose or pipe is misleading because it consists of 
alternating sections of hose and pipe. 

“One of the pipe sections either constantly chafes on or occasionally rubs against a bolt head near the upper left side of 
the rack, as seen from underneath the car facing forward.  The severity of the chafe will depend to some extent on how 
much either end of the hose assembly is twisted against its fittings during installation.  The design fault appears to lie in 
the fact that the offending section of pipe is dead straight (which is cheap) as opposed to having a slight bend to clear it 
(which costs at least an extra GBP0.02 to manufacture). 

“Funnily enough, inspection of hoses and pipes for chafes is a part of the 7,500 miles maintenance schedule.  No prizes 
for guessing why, in case any more such design gems lurk in the car. 

“My workaround, which operates entirely satisfactorily, is to put a hose clip around the chafing area of the pipe, to 
check it every time I get under the car and to replace it when necessary.  So far I only needed to do it once, after about 
two years of service.  The pipe still is as new. 

“A hydraulics shop could easily make up a properly formed section of pipe, probably at a fraction of the cost of a 
Jaguar original as well.” 

 

Rear Suspension 

 

REAR END ALIGNMENT:  There’s no such thing as castor on non-steering wheels, and toe-in is not adjustable on the 
rear of the XJ-S; if it’s off, something is bent.  The only alignment adjustment available at the rear is the camber,