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Harley Davidson 1986-2003 sportster troubleshooting manuale cycletech - page 3

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[11B] (Gr) [11A]

Ignition module

Red/white

To cam

position

5v REF

sensor

Black/white

MAP sensor

signal

Violet/white

[80B]

Ignition module

connector

MAP

sensor

*Before replacing the ignition module, confirm it is

defective by taking the motorcycle to a dealership.

Further testing requires the Scanalyzer.

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BATTERY VOLTAGE

Perform charging system tests as described

Repair the charging system.

in this chapter. Is the charging system OK?

Yes

Remove the spark plug wires. Install the test har-

nesses (Figure 44) between the ignition module

and the module connectors. While cranking the

System OK.

Yes

engine, measure the voltage between Pin 1 and

Pin 11 on the black test harness and between Pin

1 and Pin 2 on the black test harness. Ignore

readings during the first 2 seconds of cranking.

Is the voltage above 8 volts? Reconnect the

spark plug cables.

With the ignition on, measure the

voltage drop between the positive

battery terminal, and pin 4 in the

Check the voltage drop in the ignition module

handlebar connector [22A]. Is the

power circuit. Refer to Electrical Testing in this

Yes

voltage drop greater than 0.5 volt?

chapter With the ignition on, measure the voltage

drop between the positive battery terminal and

Pin 1 on the black test harness. Is the voltage

drop greater than 0.5 volt?

Yes

Replace white/

With the ignition on,

Check the voltage drop between the negative bat-

black wire or ter-

measure the voltage

tery terminal and Pin 2 on the black test harness.

minals.

drop between the

Is the voltage drop greater than 0.5 volt?

positive battery ter-

minal, and pin 3 in

the handlebar con-

Yes

nector [22A]. Is the

voltage drop greater

Yes

than 0.5 volt?

Locate and repair

Problem is intermit-

any bad connec-

tent. Perform wiggle

tions.

test.

With the ignition

on, measure the

voltage drop be-

tween the positive

Inspect the handlebar

Replace the gray

battery terminal

connector [22] for

wire or terminals.

and grey terminal

corrosion or loose

on the ignition

wires. If not present,

fuse. Is the voltage

replace the right-hand

With the ignition on, measure the volt-

drop greater than

run/start switch

age drop between the positive battery

Yes

0.5 volt?

(Chapter Twelve).

terminal and red/black terminal on the

ignition fuse. Is the voltage drop greater

than 0.5 volt?

With the ignition on, measure the voltage

drop between the positive battery termi-

nal and the silver post on the circuit

Yes

breaker. Is the voltage drop greater than

Replace the ignition

0.5 volt?

switch (Chapter

Twelve) or terminals.

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Replace the ignition switch (Chapter Twelve) or terminals.

With the ignition ON, measure the voltage drop between the

positive battery terminal and the copper post on the circuit

Yes

breaker. Is the voltage drop greater than 0.5 volt?

Yes

Replace the circuit

High resistance between

breaker (Chapter

the circuit breaker and

Twelve).

battery. Replace the wire

or terminals.

[22B] [22A]

[10B] [10A]

Ignition module

White/black

Grey

Run/stop

switch

15 Amp

Red/black

fuse

Ignition

switch

Copper post

Red

Black

Silver post

30 amp

main circuit breaker

(silver post)

Battery

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IGNITION COIL

Disconnect the coil connector

[83B]. Connect a test light to the

Perform a wiggle test. Any intermittents

positive battery terminal and to ter-

Yes

found?

minal C (front cylinder) or terminal

A (rear cylinder) of the coil

connector [83B]. Crank the engine.

Does the test light flash?

Yes

Repair as

Replace the

necessary.

ignition coil.

Install the test harnesses (Figure 44) be-

With the ignition on, measure the

tween the ignition module and the mod-

Yes

voltage between terminal B con-

ule connectors. Measure the resistance

nector [83B] (white/black), and

between the indicated points on the test

ground. Is it equal to the battery

harness and coil terminal connector

voltage?

[83B]:

TROUBLE COIL

TEST

CODE

TERMINAL HARNESS

(B)

Repair the open wire or connection

Pin 6

on the white/black wire.

(Blue/orange)

Pin 7

(Yellow/Blue)

Is the resistance less than 0.5 ohms?

Yes

Perform a wig-

Repair open wire

gle test. Any

or connection.

Repair as necessary.

Yes

intermittents

found?

*Before replacing the ignition module, confirm it is

* Replace the ignition

defective by taking the motorcycle to a dealership.

module.

Further testing requires the Scanalyzer.

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TACHOMETER (1998 1200S MODELS)

Disconnect the black ignition mod-

ule connector [10] from the ignition

Check for continuity between pin 6 and pin 7 in

module, and disconnect the meter

the meter connector [20]. Is continuity present?

Yes

connector [20]. With the ignition

on, measure the voltage between

pin 11 and pin 12 on the ignition

module connector [10B]. Is battery

Yes

voltage present?

Repair short to

Reconnect the black igni-

voltage.

tion module connector

[10] and start the engine.

Does the voltage

Install the test harnesses (Figure 44) between

the ignition module and the module connectors.

Check for continuity between pin 11 and pin 12

Yes

in the black test harness. Is continuity present?

*Replace ignition

Locate

module.

intermittents

Yes

and repair.

Repair short to

Check the continuity be-

ground.

tween pin 12 in the black

test harness and pin 7 in

the meter connector [20A].

Is continuity present?

Tachometer

Repair or re-

Yes

[20]

place pink wire.

Orange

Remove the black test

harness and disconnect

Black

the meter connector

Red/blue

[20A]. Measure the volt-

Pink

Yes

age between pin 11 and

pin 12 in the discon-

[10A] [10B] (Black)

nected ignition module

connector [10B]. Is bat-

Replace the

tery voltage present?

tachometer.

Black

*Replace the ignition

module.

Ignition module

*Before replacing the ignition module, confirm it is defective by

taking the motorcycle to a dealership. Further testing requires the

Scanalyzer.

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TACHOMETER (1999-2003 1200S MODELS)

Disconnect the black ignition

Install the test harnesses (Figure 44)

module connector [10] from the

between the ignition module and the

ignition module, and disconnect

module connectors. Check the conti-

connector [108] from the tachom-

nuity between pin 11 and pin 12 in

eter. With the ignition on, mea-

the black test harness and between

sure the voltage between pin 11

pin 2 and pin 12 in the black test har-

and pin 12 on the ignition module

ness. Is continuity present?

connector [10B]. Is battery volt-

age present?

Yes

Check for continuity between pin 6 and

Reconnect con-

Disconnect the

pin 7 in the meter connector [20]. Is

nector [108] to

meter connector

continuity present?

the tachometer.

[20]. Check for

Check the resis-

continuity be-

tance between

tween pin 11 and

pin 11 and pin 12

pin 12 in the

in the black test

black test har-

Yes

harness. Is resis-

ness. Is continu-

tance less than

ity present?

5000 ohms?

Repair short.

Reconnect the ignition

module connector [10]

and start the engine.

Does the voltage change?

Yes

Repair the short

to ground on the

Yes

pink wire between

pink wire be-

the ignition mod-

tween the meter

ule connector

connector [20B]

*Replace the ig-

Locate intermittents

[10B] and the me-

and the tachome-

nition module.

and repair.

ter connector

[20A].

[108B].

Yes

*Replace the ignition

Replace the

module.

tachometer.

*Before replacing the ignition module, confirm it is

defective by taking the motorcycle to a dealership.

Further testing requires the Scanalyzer.

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Tachometer

[108B]

[108A]

[20B]

[20A]

Red/black

Orange

Pink

Black

[10B] [10A] (Black)

Black

Ignition module

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CAM POSITION SENSOR

Disconnect the cam position sensor

Disconnect the gray ignition module con-

connector [14]. Turn the ignition on.

nector [11B] from the ignition module. Turn

Measure the voltage between terminal

the ignition on. Measure the voltage be-

A and terminal C in the sensor con-

tween pin 1 and pin 8 on the ignition mod-

nector [14B]. Is the voltage 5 ± 0.25

ule. Is the voltage 5 ± 0.25 volts?

VDC?

Yes

Reconnect the cam position sensor connector

[14]. Install both test harnesses between (Figure

Replace the

Install both test harnesses

44) the ignition module and the ignition module

ignition

(Figure 44) between the igni-

connectors. Crank the engine, and measure the

module*

tion module and the ignition

voltage across pin 3 and pin 8 in the gray test

module connectors. Turn the

harness. Is voltage 2-3 volts?

ignition on. Measure the

voltage between pin 1 and

pin 8 at the gray test har-

0 volts

ness. What is the voltage?

Locate and repair the

Yes

short to ground on the

red/white wire.

5 volts

12 volts

Intermittent open in

Check for continuity on the

Locate and repair the

Locate and re-

green/white wire or short in

green/white wire. Is there

open in the red/white

pair the short to

the white/blue or red/white

continuity on each wire?

wire or the green/white

voltage on the

wires. Repair intermittent.

wire between the cam

red/white wire.

position sensor con-

nector [14] and the

gray ignition module

Yes

connector [11].

Repair.

Remove the timing

cover and cam po-

sition sensor

Repair.

(Chapter Twelve).

Observe the rotor

cup while cranking

the engine. Does

Is the rotor attached properly?

Remove the

the rotor turn?

Yes

gearcase

cover and in-

spect for

Yes

Replace the rotor and retest.

damage.

Yes

Check the rotor for damage. Is the

Replace the cam posi-

rotor loose or damaged?

tion sensor plate and

*Replace igni-

clear the code. Retest.

Yes

tion module.

Does the problem still

exist?

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*Before replacing the ignition module, confirm it is

defective by taking the motorcycle to a dealership.

Further testing requires the Scanalyzer.

[14B] [14A]

Cam position

sensor

Red/white

Ignition module

Black/white

Ground

Signal

5 v REF

[11B] [11A]

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BANK ANGLE SENSOR

Is the bank angle sensor connected?

Reconnect and clear the codes

as described in this section. Re-

check for codes.

Yes

Disconnect the bank angle sensor connector [134B]. Turn the ignition on. Measure the voltage between

socket A and socket B in the bank angle sensor connector. What is the voltage?

1998 models: 3.0-3.5 VDC

11-13 VDC

0 V

1999-2003 models: 4-6 VDC

Repair short to

Install the test harnesses (Figure

Measure the voltage between

voltage on the

44) between the ignition module

socket B and socket C on the

green/gray wire.

and the module connectors. Check

bank angle sensor connector. Is

the continuity between Terminal 10

the voltage 11-13 volts?

in the black test harness and

Socket A in the bank angle sensor

Repair the open in

connector [134B]. Is continuity

Yes

the gray wire be-

present?

tween the sensor

connector [134] and

Is the bank angle sensor correctly

the harness.

installed as decribed in Chapter

Yes

Twelve?

Check continuity

Repair the

Yes

to ground at

open in the

socket B on the

green/gray

bank angle sen-

wire.

Are ferrous met-

Install properly.

sor connector

als within 1/4 in.

[134B]. Is conti-

(6.4 mm) of the

nuity present?

sides, face or

top of sensor?

Yes

Check continuity to

Repair the open to

ground at socket A on

ground in the black

the bank angle sensor

wire.

Reinstall

Replace the bank

connector [134B]. Is

the sensor

angle sensor.

continuity present?

correctly.

Yes

*Before replacing the ignition

module, confirm it is defective

*Replace

by taking the motorcycle to a

Repair the

the ignition

dealership. Further testing

short to

module and

requires the Scanalyzer.

ground on the

recheck for

green/gray

codes.

wire.

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Gray

[134B] [134A]

Red/black

Black

Bank angle sensor

Green/gray

To vehicle

ground

Ignition module

[10]

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KEIHIN CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING

(1986-1987 MODELS)

Fuel overflows

Check:

* Worn float needle valve or dirty seat

* Incorrect float level

* Damaged float bowl O-ring or loose float bowl

mounting screws

* Damaged float pin or loose locking screw

* Damaged float

Poor idling

Check:

* Idle misadjusted

* Worn idle mixture screw

* Blocked jet or port in carburetor bore

* Air leak at carburetor mounting

* Accelerator pump rod too long or misadjusted

Poor acceleration

Check:

* Clogged accelerator pump

* Worn accelerator pump diaphragm

* Idle mixture misadjusted (early models with

idle mixture adjustment)

* Clogged pilot jet

* Float level too high

Low power at all speeds

Check:

* Dirty or plugged carburetor passages

* Clogged fuel lines

* Clogged fuel strainer in tank

* Air leak at carburetor mount

* Dirty air filter

* Loose carburetor jets

Poor power at high speeds

Check:

* Loose or clogged main jet

* Incorrect float level

* Dirty or plugged carburetor passages

Check:

* Float level too low

Poor fuel economy

* Loose jets

* Clogged bleed tubes of jets

* Choke not opening fully

* Dirty air filter

Check:

* Clogged fuel line

Fuel starvation

* Carburetor dirty

* Fuel tank strainers clogged or dirty

* Accelerating pump not operating correctly

* Fuel tank dirty

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CV CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING

(1988-2003 MODELS)

Hard starting

Check:

* Fuel overflow from float assembly

* Enrichener system inoperative

* Plugged pilot jet and/or passage

* Fuel overflow

Fuel overflows

Check:

* Incorrect fuel level

* Damaged float assembly

* Worn float needle valve or dirty seat

* Incorrect float alignment

* Damaged float bowl O-ring or loose float

bowl mounting screws

* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on 1990-1991

models

* Plugged or damaged continuous vent

system on 1992-2003 models

* Incorrect fuel tank cap installed

(non-vent type)

Poor idling

Check:

* Incorrect idle speed

* Plugged pilot jet system

* Loose pilot jet

* Air leak at carburetor mounting

* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged

Poor acceleration

Check:

* Fuel level too low

* Clogged fuel passages

* Clogged jets

* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on

1990-1991 models

* Plugged or damaged continuous

vent system on 1992-2003 models

* Incorrect fuel tank cap installed

(non-vent type)

* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged

* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle

* Throttle cable misadjusted

* Air leak at carburetor mounting

* Damaged vacuum piston

Poor power at low engine speeds

Check:

* Incorrect idle speed adjustment

* Contaminated air filter element

* Damaged vacuum piston

* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle

* Clogged pilot jet system

* Plugged float bowl vent or overflow

* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged

* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on

1990-1991 models

* Plugged or damaged continuous

vent system on 1992-2003 models

* Clogged fuel supply

* Air leak at carburetor mounting

(continued)

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(continued)

Poor power at high engine speeds

Check:

* Incorrect fuel level

* Loose or plugged main jet

* Contaminated air filter element

* Damaged vacuum piston

* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle

* Plugged float bowl vent or overflow

* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged

* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on

1990-1991 models

* Plugged or damaged continuous

vent system on 1992-2003 models

* Clogged fuel supply

* Air leak at carburetor mounting

Poor fuel economy

Check:

* Incorrect enrichment use

* Damaged vacuum piston

* Contaminated air filter element

* Loose jets

* Fuel level too high

* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle

* Plugged float bowl vent

* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged

* Incorrect carburetor adjustment

Vacuum piston doesn’t rise in bore

Check:

correctly

* Vacuum piston binds in bore

* Diaphragm torn or damaged

* Vacuum piston spring binding

* Enrichener valve open or leaking

* Diaphragm cap loose or damaged

* Piston vent clogged

* Diaphragm incorrectly installed

(pinched at lip)

Vacuum piston doesn’t close

Check:

* Broken spring

* Diaphragm torn or damaged

* Vacuum piston binds in bore

acceleration. This causes the diaphragm to force fuel from

Vacuum-operated fuel shutoff valve testing

the pump chamber, through a check valve and into the carbu-

(1995-2003 models)

retor venturi. The diaphragm spring returns the diaphragm to

the uncompressed position, which allows the chamber to re-

A vacuum-operated fuel shutoff valve is used on

fill with fuel.

1995-2003 models. A vacuum hose is connected between

If the engine hesitates during sudden acceleration, check

the fuel shutoff valve diaphragm and the carburetor. When

the operation of the accelerator pump system. Carburetor

the engine is running, vacuum is applied to the fuel shutoff

service is covered in Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.

valve through this hose. For fuel to flow through the fuel

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FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM

(1986-1987 MODELS)

Inlet valve

Fron fuel

tank

ACCELERATOR PUMP

SYSTEM (1986-1987 MODELS)

Float

Throttle shaft

Pump lever

Float chamber

Overflow line

Spring

Venturi

Pump

nozzle

FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM

(1988-2003 MODELS)

Pump rod

Check valve

Spring

Fuel

Diaphragm

Float

bowl

vent

valve, a vacuum must be present with the fuel shutoff valve

Fuel

handle in the on or reserve position. The following steps

inlet

(from side)

troubleshoot the fuel shutoff valve by applying a vacuum

from a separate source. A hand-operated vacuum pump

(Figure 82, typical), gas can, drain hose that is long enough

to reach from the fuel valve to the gas can, and hose clamp

are required for this test.

1. Refer to Safety in Chapter One.

Inlet

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in

valve

Chapter Twelve.

Float

3. Visually check there is fuel in the tank.

Overflow

line

4. Turn the fuel shutoff valve (A, Figure 79) to the off po-

sition and disconnect the fuel hose (B) from the fuel shutoff

valve. Plug the open end of the hose.

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5. Connect the drain hose to the fuel shutoff valve and se-

cure it with a hose clamp. Insert the end of the drain hose

ACCELERATOR PUMP

SYSTEM (1988-2003 MODELS)

into a gas can.

6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel shutoff valve.

7. Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump (Figure 82,

typical) to the fuel shutoff valve vacuum hose nozzle.

Throttle rod

8. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever to the on position.

Pump

Throttle

lever

shaft

CAUTION

In Step 8, do not apply more than specified

Spring

vacuum or the fuel shutoff valve diaphragm

Venturi

will be damaged.

Pump

9. Apply 25 in. (635 mm) Hg of vacuum to the valve. Fuel

nozzle

should flow through the fuel shutoff valve when the vac-

uum is applied.

10. With the vacuum still applied, turn the fuel shutoff

valve lever to the reserve position. Fuel should continue to

flow through the valve.

Check

11. Release the vacuum and make sure the fuel flow stops.

valve

12. Repeat Steps 9-11 five times. Fuel should flow with

vacuum applied and stop flowing when the vacuum is re-

Diaphragm

leased.

13. Turn the fuel shutoff valve off. Disconnect the vacuum

Pump

pump and drain hoses.

rod

Spring

14. Reconnect the fuel hose (B, Figure 79) to the fuel shut-

off valve (A).

15. If the fuel valve failed this test, replace the fuel shutoff

valve as described in Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.

ENGINE NOISES

1. A knocking or pinging during acceleration can be

caused by using a lower octane fuel than recommended or a

poor grade of fuel. Incorrect carburetor jetting and an incor-

rect spark plug heat range (too hot) can cause pinging. Re-

fer to Spark Plugs in Chapter Three. Also check for

excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber or a

defective ignition module.

2. A slapping or rattling noise at low speed or during accel-

eration can be caused by excessive piston-to-cylinder wall

clearance. Also check for a bent connecting rod(s) or worn

piston pin and/or piston pin hole in the piston(s).

3. A knocking or rapping during deceleration is usually

caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.

4. A persistent knocking and vibration or other noises are

usually caused by worn main bearings. If the main bearings

j. Excessive crankshaft runout.

are in good condition, check for the following:

Rapid on-off squeal indicates

compression

leak

a. Loose engine mounts.

around the cylinder head gasket or spark plug.

b. Cracked frame.

6. For valve train noise, check for the following:

c. Leaking cylinder head gasket(s).

a. Bent pushrod(s).

d. Exhaust pipe leaks at cylinder head(s).

b. Defective lifter(s).

e. Stuck piston ring(s).

c. Valve sticking in guide.

f. Broken piston ring(s).

g. Partial engine seizure.

d. Worn cam gears and/or cam.

h. Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance.

e. Damaged rocker arm or shaft. Rocker arm may be

i. Excessive connecting rod side clearance.

binding on shaft.

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tion. If the motorcycle is ridden far enough, the water can-

not buildup in the crankcase and should not be a problem.

Once the engine heats up to normal operating temperature,

the water evaporates and exits the engine. However, if the

Cylinder

Supply

pressure

motorcycle is ridden for short trips or repeatedly started and

pressure

stopped and allowed to cool off without the engine getting

warm enough, water will start to collect in the crankcase.

With each short run of the engine, more water collects. As

this water mixes with the oil in the crankcase, sludge is pro-

duced. Water sludge can eventually cause engine damage

Leakdown

as it circulates through the lubrication system and blocks

tester

off oil passages. Water draining from drain holes in exhaust

pipes indicate water buildup.

To air

To cylinder head

compressor

LEAKDOWN TEST

A leakdown test can determine engine problems from

leaking valves, blown head gaskets or broken, worn or

stuck piston rings. A leakdown test is performed by apply-

ing compressed air to the cylinder and then measuring the

loss percentage. A cylinder leakdown tester (Figure 83,

typical) and an air compressor are required to perform this

test.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions along with the fol-

lowing information when performing a cylinder leakdown

test.

1. Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating

temperature.

2. Remove the air filter (Chapter Three). Then set the

throttle and choke valves in the wide open position.

3. Remove the ignition timing inspection plug from the

crankcase (Figure 84).

ENGINE SMOKE

4. Set the piston for the cylinder being tested to TDC on its

compression stroke. Refer to Ignition Timing in Chapter

The color of engine smoke can help diagnosis engine

Three.

problems or operating conditions.

5. Remove the spark plugs (Chapter Three).

NOTE

Black Smoke

The engine may want to turn over when air

Black smoke is an indication of a rich air/fuel mixture

pressure is applied to the cylinder. To prevent

this from happening, shift the transmission

where an excessive amount of fuel is being burned in the

into fifth gear and apply the rear brake.

combustion chamber.

6. Make a leakdown test following the leakdown tester

manufacturer’s instructions. Listen for air leaking while

Blue Smoke

noting the following:

Blue smoke indicates that the engine is burning oil in the

a. Air leaking through the exhaust pipe indicates a leak-

combustion chamber as it leaks past worn valve stem seals

ing exhaust valve.

and piston rings. Excessive oil consumption is another indi-

b. Air leaking through the carburetor indicates a leaking

cator of an engine that is burning oil. Perform a compres-

intake valve.

sion test (Chapter Three) to isolate the problem.

NOTE

Air leaking through the valves can also be

White Smoke or Steam

caused by pushrods that are too long.

It is normal to see white smoke or steam from the exhaust

c. Air leaking through the ignition timing inspection

after first starting the engine in cold weather. This is actu-

hole indicates worn or broken piston rings, a leaking

ally condensed steam formed by the engine during combus-

cylinder head gasket or a worn piston.

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7. Repeat for the other cylinder.

8. If the pressure loss between cylinders differs by more

than 12 percent, the engine is in poor condition and further

testing is required.

ENGINE LUBRICATION

An improperly operating engine lubrication system will

quickly lead to engine damage. The engine oil tank should

be checked weekly and the tank refilled as described in

Chapter Three.

Oil pump service is covered in Chapter Five.

Oil Light

Excessive Engine Oil Leaks

1. Clogged air filter breather hose.

The oil light, mounted on the indicator light panel (Fig-

2. Restricted or damaged oil return line to oil tank.

ure 85), will come on when the ignition switch is turned to

3. Loose engine parts.

on before starting the engine. After the engine is started, the

4. Damaged gasket sealing surfaces.

oil light should go off when the engine speed is above idle.

5. Oil tank overfilled.

If the oil light does not come on when the ignition switch

is turned on and the engine is not running, check for a

burned out oil light bulb. If the bulb is okay, check the oil

CLUTCH

pressure switch

(Figure

86) as described in Chapter

Twelve.

All clutch troubles, except adjustments, require partial

clutch disassembly to identify and cure the problem. Refer

If the oil light remains on when the engine speed is above

to Chapter Six or Chapter Seven for clutch service proce-

idle, turn the engine off and check the oil level in the oil

dures.

tank as described in Chapter Three. If the oil level is satis-

Make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted (Chapter

factory, check the following:

Three) before investigating internal problems.

1. Oil may not be returning to the tank from the return line.

Check for a clogged or damaged return line or a damaged

oil pump.

Clutch Chatter or Noise

2. If the motorcycle is operated in conditions where the

This problem is generally caused by worn or warped fric-

ambient temperature is below freezing, ice and sludge may

tion and steel plates. Also check for worn or damaged bear-

be blocking the oil feed pipe. This condition will prevent

ings.

the oil from circulating properly.

Clutch Slip

Oil Consumption High or Engine Smokes Excessively

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.

1. Worn valve guides.

2. Worn friction plates.

2. Worn valve guide seals.

3. Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.

3. Worn or damaged piston rings.

4. Damaged pressure plate.

4. Restricted oil tank return line.

5. Oil tank overfilled.

Clutch Dragging

6. Oil filter restricted.

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.

7. Leaking cylinder head surfaces.

2. Warped clutch plates.

3. Worn or damaged clutch shell or clutch hub.

Oil Fails to Return to Oil Tank

TRANSMISSION

1. Oil lines or fittings restricted or damaged.

2. Oil pump damaged or operating incorrectly.

Refer to Chapter Eight or Chapter Nine for transmission

3. Oil tank empty.

service procedures. Make sure that the clutch is not causing

4. Oil filter restricted.

the trouble before working on the transmission.

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Preliminary Checks and Precautions

Before starting any electrical troubleshooting, perform

the following:

1. Inspect the fuse for the suspected circuit, and replace it if

blown. Refer to Circuit Breakers and Fuses in Chapter

Twelve.

2. Inspect the battery (Chapter Twelve). Make sure it is

fully charged and the battery leads are clean and securely

attached to the battery terminals.

3. Electrical connectors are often the cause of electrical sys-

tem problems. Inspect the connectors as follows:

a. Disconnect each electrical connector in the suspect

circuit and make sure there are no bent terminals in

the electrical connector. A bent terminal will not con-

Jumping Out of Gear

nect to its mate, causing an open circuit.

1. Incorrect shifter pawl adjuster.

b. Make sure the terminals are pushed all the way into

2. Worn or damaged shifter parts.

the connector. If not, carefully push them in with a

3. Bent shift forks.

narrow blade screwdriver.

4. Severely worn or damaged gears.

c. Check the wires where they attach to the terminals for

damage.

d. Make sure each terminal is clean and free of corro-

Difficult Shifting

sion. Clean them, if necessary, and pack the connec-

tors with dielectric grease.

1. Worn or damaged shift forks.

e. Push the connector halves together. Make sure the

2. Loose or damaged detent plate.

connectors are fully engaged and locked together.

3. Worn or damaged shift shaft assembly.

f. Never pull the wires when disconnecting a connector.

4. Worn or damaged detent arm.

Pull only on the connector housing.

5. Worn shift fork drum groove(s).

4. Never use a self-powered test light on circuits that con-

6. Loose, worn or damaged shifter fork pin(s).

tain solid-state devices. The solid-state devices may be

7. Damaged shift shaft splines.

damaged.

Excessive Gear Noise

Intermittent Problems

1. Worn or damaged bearings.

Problems that do not occur all the time can be difficult to

2. Worn or damaged gears.

isolate during testing. For example, when a problem only

3. Excessive gear backlash.

occurs when the motorcycle is ridden over rough roads (vi-

bration) or in wet conditions (water penetration). Note the

ELECTRICAL TESTING

following:

1. Vibration. This is a common problem with loose or dam-

This section describes typical test equipment and how to

aged electrical connectors.

troubleshoot with it.

a. Perform a continuity test as described in the appropri-

Never assume anything and do not overlook the obvious,

ate service procedure or under Continuity Test in this

such as a blown fuse or an electrical connector that has sep-

section.

arated. Test the simplest and most obvious items first and

b. Lightly pull or wiggle the connectors while repeating

try to make tests at easily accessible points on the motorcy-

the test. Do the same when checking the wiring har-

cle. Make sure to troubleshoot systematically.

ness and individual components, especially where

Refer to the color wiring diagrams at the end of the man-

the wires enter a housing or connector.

ual for component and connector identification. Use the

c. A change in meter readings indicates a poor connec-

wiring diagrams to determine how the circuit should work

tion. Find and repair the problem or replace the part.

by tracing the current paths from the power source through

Check for wires with cracked or broken insulation.

the circuit components to ground. Also check any circuits

that share the same fuse, ground or switch. If the other cir-

NOTE

cuits work properly and the shared wiring is good, the cause

An analog ohmmeter is useful when making

must be in the wiring used only by the suspect circuit. If all

this type of test. Slight needle movements are

related circuits are faulty at the same time, the probable

visibly apparent, which indicate a loose con-

cause is a poor ground connection or a blown fuse(s).

nection.

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2. Heat. This is a common problem with connectors or

joints that have loose or poor connections. As these connec-

tions heat up, the connection or joint expands and separates,

Voltmeter

causing an open circuit. Other heat related problems occur

when a component starts to fail as it heats up.

a. Troubleshoot the problem to isolate the circuit.

CAUTION

A heat gun will quickly raise the temperature

of the component being tested. Do not apply

heat directly to the circuit or use heat in ex-

cess of 140° F (60° C) on any electrical com-

ponent.

b. To check a connector, perform a continuity test as de-

scribed in the appropriate service procedure or under

Continuity Test in this section. Then repeat the test

while heating the connector with a heat gun. If the

meter reading was normal (continuity) when the con-

nector was cold, and then fluctuated or read infinity

Voltage drop

when heat was applied, the connection is bad.

c. To check a component, allow the engine to cool, and

then start and run the engine. Note operational differ-

Battery

ences when the engine is cold and hot.

d. If the engine will not start, isolate and remove the

suspect component. Test it at room temperature and

again after heating it with a heat gun. A change in me-

ter readings indicates a temperature problem.

3. Water. When the problem occurs when riding in wet con-

ditions or in areas with high humidity, start and run the en-

Fan motor

gine in a dry area. Then, with the engine running, spray

water onto the suspected component/circuit. Water-related

problems often stop after the component heats up and dries.

flow through the connector. This type of test can be per-

formed with a test light or a voltmeter.

Test Light or Voltmeter

1. Attach the voltmeter negative test lead to a confirmed

Use a test light to check for voltage in a circuit. Attach

ground location. If possible, use the battery ground connec-

one lead to ground and the other lead to various points

tion. Make sure the ground is not insulated.

along the circuit. It does not make a difference which test

2. Attach the voltmeter positive test lead to the point to be

lead is attached to ground. The bulb lights when voltage is

tested (Figure 87).

present.

3. Turn the ignition switch on. If using a test light, the test

Use a voltmeter in the same manner as the test light to

light will come on if voltage is present. If using a voltmeter,

find out if voltage is present in any given circuit. The volt-

note the voltage reading. The reading should be within 1

meter, unlike the test light, also indicates how much voltage

volt of battery voltage. If the voltage is less there is a prob-

is present at each test point.

lem in the circuit.

Voltage test

Voltage drop test

Unless otherwise specified, make all voltage tests with

The wires, cables, connectors and switches in the electri-

the electrical connectors still connected. Insert the test leads

cal circuit are designed to carry current with low resistance.

into the backside of the connector and make sure the test

This ensures current can flow through the circuit with a

lead touches the electrical terminal within the connector

minimum loss of voltage. Voltage drop indicates where

housing. If the test lead only touches the wire insulation, it

there is resistance in a circuit. A higher-than-normal

will cause a false reading.

amount of resistance in a circuit decreases the flow of cur-

Always check both sides of the connector because one

rent and causes the voltage to drop between the source and

side may be loose or corroded, thus preventing electrical

destination in the circuit.

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and work systematically away from the panel. Note the

Connected

voltmeter reading while progressing along the harness.

Ammeter

in series

4. If the voltmeter reading changes or the test light blinks,

there is a short-to-ground at that point in the harness.

Ammeter

Measures

current flow

Use an ammeter to measure the flow of current (amps) in

a circuit (Figure 89). When connected in series in a circuit,

the ammeter determines if current is flowing through the

circuit and if that current flow is excessive because of a

short in the circuit. Current flow is often referred to as cur-

rent draw. Comparing actual current draw in the circuit or

component to current draw specification (if specified by the

Because resistance causes voltage to drop, a voltmeter is

manufacturer) provides useful diagnostic information.

used to measure voltage drop when current is running

through the circuit. If the circuit has no resistance, there is

Self-powered Test Light

no voltage drop so the voltmeter indicates 0 volts. The

greater the resistance in a circuit, the greater the voltage

A self-powered test light can be constructed from a

drop reading.

12-volt light bulb, a pair of test leads and a 12-volt battery.

To perform a voltage drop:

When the test leads are touched together the light bulb

1. Connect the positive meter test lead to the electrical

should go on.

source (where electricity is coming from).

Use a self-powered test light as follows:

2. Connect the voltmeter negative test lead to the electrical

1. Touch the test leads together to make sure the light bulb

load (where the electricity is going). Refer to Figure 88.

goes on. If not, correct the problem.

3. If necessary, activate the component(s) in the circuit.

2. Disconnect the motorcycle’s battery or remove the fuse(s)

4. Read the voltage drop (difference in voltage between the

that protects the circuit to be tested. Do not connect a

source and destination) on the voltmeter. Note the following:

self-powered test light to a circuit that has power applied to it.

a. The voltmeter should indicate 0 volts. If there is a

3. Select two points within the circuit where there should be

drop of 1 volt or more, there is a problem within the

continuity.

circuit. A voltage drop reading of 12 volts indicates

4. Attach one lead of the test light to each point.

an open in the circuit.

5. If there is continuity, the test light bulb will come on.

b. A voltage drop of 1 or more volts indicates that a cir-

6. If there is no continuity, the test light bulb will not come

cuit has excessive resistance.

on, indicating an open circuit.

c. For example, consider a starting problem where the

battery is fully charged but the starter turns over

Ohmmeter

slowly. Voltage drop would be the difference in the

voltage at the battery (source) and the voltage at the

CAUTION

starter

(destination) as the engine is being started

To prevent damage to the ohmmeter, never

(current is flowing through the battery cables). A cor-

connect it to a circuit that has power applied

roded battery cable would cause a high voltage drop

to it. Always disconnect the battery negative

(high resistance) and slow engine cranking.

lead before using an ohmmeter.

d. Common sources of voltage drop are loose or con-

Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance (in ohms) to

taminated connectors and poor ground connections.

current flow in a circuit or component.

Ohmmeters may be analog type (needle scale) or digital

Short test

type (LCD or LED readout). Both types of ohmmeters have

a switch that allows the user to select different ranges of re-

A test light may also be used.

sistance for accurate readings. The analog ohmmeter also

1. Remove the blown fuse from the fuse panel.

has a set-adjust control, which is used to zero or calibrate

2. Connect the voltmeter across the fuse terminals in the

the meter (digital ohmmeters do not require calibration).

fuse panel. Turn the ignition switch on and check for bat-

Refer to the ohmmeter’s instructions to determine the cor-

tery voltage.

rect scale setting.

3. With the voltmeter attached to the fuse terminals, wiggle

Use an ohmmeter by connecting its test leads to the circuit

the wiring harness relating to the suspect circuit at approxi-

or component to be tested. If an analog meter is used, it must

mately 6 in. (15 cm) intervals. Start next to the fuse panel

be calibrated by touching the test leads together and turning

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