Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
this chapter.
2. Disconnect the connector housing.
3. Remove the secondary locking wedge as follows:

a. Locate the secondary locking wedge in Figure 194 or

Figure 195.

b. Insert a wide-blade screwdriver between the socket

housing and the locking wedge. Turn the screwdriver
90

to force the wedge up (Figure 196).

c. Remove the secondary locking wedge.

4. Press the terminal latches inside the socket housing and
remove the socket terminal through the holes in the rear
wire seal.
5. Repeat Step 3 for each socket terminal.
6. If necessary, remove the wire seal.
7. Install the wire seal into the socket housing if it was re-
moved.
8. Hold onto the socket housing and insert the socket ter-
minals through the holes in the wire seal so they enter the
correct chamber hole. Continue until the socket terminal
locks into place. Then lightly tug on the wire to make sure it
is locked into place.

9. Set the internal seal onto the socket housing if it was re-
moved.

NOTE

With the exception of the 3-pin Deutsch con-
nector, all of the secondary locking wedges
are symmetrical. When assembling the 3-pin
connector, install the connector so the arrow
on the secondary locking wedge is pointing
toward the external latch as shown in

Figure

197.

NOTE

If the secondary locking wedge does not slide
into position easily, one or more of the socket
terminals are not installed correctly. Correct
the problem before trying to lock the wedge
into the socket.

10. Install the secondary locking wedge into the socket
housing as shown in Figure 194 or Figure 195. Press the
secondary locking wedge down until it locks into place.

Pin terminal removal/installation

This procedure is shown on a 12-pin Duetsch connector

and relates to all of the Deutsch connectors.

Refer to Figure 194 and Figure 195.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
this chapter.
2. Disconnect the connector housing.
3. Use needlenose pliers to remove the locking wedge.
4. Lightly press the terminal latches inside the pin housing
and remove the pin terminal(s) through the holes in the rear
wire seal.
5. Repeat Step 3 for each socket terminal.
6. If necessary, remove the wire seal.
7. Install the wire seal into the socket housing if it was re-
moved.
8. Hold onto the pin housing and insert the pin terminals
through the holes in the wire seal so they enter their correct
chamber hole. Continue until the pin terminal locks into
place. Then lightly tug on the wire to make sure it is locked
into place.

NOTE

Figure

197

NOTE

If the locking wedge does not slide into posi-
tion easily, one or more of the pin terminals are
not installed correctly. Correct the problem
before trying to lock the wedge into the socket.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

459

196

Secondary
locking wedge

197

Pin housing

Arrows point to
external latch

Socket housing

9. Install the locking wedge into the pin housing as shown in
Figure 194 or Figure 195. Press the secondary locking
wedge down until it locks into place. When properly in-
stalled, the wedge will fit into the pin housing center groove.

Packard Electrical Connectors External Latch Type
Removal/Installation

This procedure shows how to remove and install the elec-

trical terminals from the external latch type connectors with
pull-to-seat terminals (Figure 198).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
this chapter.
2. Bend back the external latch(es) slightly and separate
the connector.
3. Look into the mating end of the connector (A, Figure
199) and locate the locking tang in the middle chamber and
on the external latch side of connector. On locking ear con-
nectors, the tang is on the side opposite the ear.
4. Insert the point of a one-inch safety pin about 1/8 in. into
the middle chamber (B, Figure 199). Pivot the end of the
safety pin up toward the terminal body until a click is heard.
Repeat this step several times. The click is the tang return-
ing to the locked position as it slips from the point of the
safety pin. Continue to pick at the tang until the clicking
stops and the safety pin seems to slide in at a slightly greater
depth indicating the tang has been depressed.

5. Remove the safety pin, push the wire end of the lead
and remove the lead from the connector (C, Figure 199).
If additional slack is necessary, pull back on the harness
conduit and remove the wire seal at the back of the con-
nector.

6. To install the terminal and wire back into the connector,
use a thin flat blade of an X-Acto knife to carefully bend the
tang away from the terminal (D, Figure 199).

7. Carefully pull the lead and terminal into the connector
until a click is heard indicating the terminal is seated cor-
rectly within the connector. Gently push on the lead to en-
sure the terminal is correctly seated.

8. If necessary, install the wire seal and push the harness
conduit back into position on the backside of the connec-
tor.

9. Push the socket halves together until the latch(es) are
locked together.

Amp Electrical Connectors Socket and Pin Terminals
Removal/Installation

This procedure shows how to remove and install the

socket and pin terminals from the pin and socket housing
connector. This procedure relates to all of the Amp connec-
tors (2-, 4- and 6-pin).

Refer to Figure 200.

460

CHAPTER TWELVE

198

PACKARD EXTERNAL

LATCH CONNECTORS

199

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
this chapter.
2. Press the button on the socket on the terminal side and
pull the connector apart.
3. Slightly bend the latch back and free one side of the sec-
ondary lock. Repeat this step for the other side.
4. Rotate the secondary lock (Figure 201) out on the hinge
to access the terminals within the connector.

NOTE

Do not pull too hard on the wire until the tang
is released or the terminal will be difficult to
remove.

5. Insert a pick tool (2, Figure 201) into the flat edge of the
terminal cavity until it stops. Pivot the pick tool away (3,

Figure 201) from the terminal and gently pull on the wire to
pull the terminal (4) from the terminal cavity. Note the wire
location number on the connector (Figure 202, typical).

NOTE

The release button used to separate the con-
nectors is at the top of the connector.

6. The tang in the chamber engages the pin terminal slot to
lock the terminal into position. The tangs (Figure 201) are
located as follows:

a. On the pin housing side, the tangs are located at the

bottom of each chamber. The pin terminal slot, on the
side opposite the crimp tails, must face downward.

462

CHAPTER TWELVE

201

Socket terminal

Secondary lock open

Socket housing

Pin terminal

Secondary lock open

Pin housing

Pick tool

Pin housing

Socket housing

Tang

Button

Pick tool

202

3-pin connector

6-pin connector

10-pin connector

b. On the socket housing side, the tangs are located at

the top of each chamber. The pin terminal slot, on the
same side as the crimp tails, must face upward.

7. On the secondary lock side of the connector, push the
wire and terminal into the correct location until it snaps into
place. Gently pull on the lead to ensure the terminal is cor-
rectly seated.
8. Rotate the hinged secondary lock down and inward until
the tabs are fully engaged with the latches on both sides of
the connector. Pull upward to make sure the tabs are locked
in place.
9. Insert the socket housing into the pin housing and push it
in until it locks into place.

Sealed Butt Connectors

Replacement of the ignition switch will require sealed

butt connectors to connect the new switch wiring to the ex-
isting wiring.

Refer to Figure 203 when installing a sealed butt connector.

NOTE

Stagger the position of the connectors so they
are not side-by-side.

WIRING DIAGRAMS

Color wiring diagrams for all models are located at the

end of this manual.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

463

203

Metal insert

Melted sealant

Table 1 ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Battery capacity

12 volt, 9 amp hr.

Ignition coil

Primary resistance

1200S models

0.4-0.6 ohms

All other models

2.5-3.1 ohms

Secondary resistance

1986-1992 models
1993-2003 models

1200S models

11,500-12,700 ohms

All other models

10,000-12,500 ohms

Alternator

Stator coil resistance

0.2-0.4 ohms

AC voltage output

19-26 VAC per 1000 rpm

Voltage regulator

Voltage output

1986-1993 models

13.8-15 VDC @ 75° F

1994-2003 models

14.3-14.7 VDC @ 75°F

Amps @ 3600 rpm

1986-1990 models

19 amps

1991-2003 models

22 amps

(continued)

Table 1 ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

Circuit breakers

1986-1993 models

Main

30 amp

Accessory

15 amp

Ignition

15 amp

Lights

15 amp

1994-1996 models

Main

50 amp

Accessory

15 amp

Ignition

15 amp

Lights

10 amp

Instruments

10 amp

1997 models

Main

30 amp

Accessory

15 amp

Ignition

15 amp

Lights

10 amp

Instruments

10 amp

Fuses

1998-2003 models

Main circuit breaker

30 amp

Accessory

15 amp

Ignition

15 amp

Lights

15 amp

Instruments

15 amp

Table 2 BATTERY CHARGING RATES/TIMES (APPROXIMATE)

% of

3 amp

6 amp

10 amp

20 amp

Voltage

charge

charger

12.8

100%

–

12.6

75%

70 minutes

34 minutes

20 minutes

10 minutes

12.3

50%

2.3 hours

70 minutes

40 minutes

20 minutes

12.0

25%

3.3 hours

1.6 hours

1 hour

30 minutes

11.8

4.5 hours

2.25 hours

1.3 hours

40 minutes

Table 3 STARTER SPECIFICATIONS

Brush length (minimum)

883 and 1100 models

1986-1994 models

0.354 in. (8.9 mm)

1995-2003 models

0.433 in. (11.0 mm)

1200 models

1988-1990 models

0.354 in (8.9 mm)

1991-1992 models

0.413 in. (10.5 mm)

1993-1994 models

0.354 in. (8.9 mm)

1995-2003 models

0.433 in. (11.0 mm)

Commutator

Diameter (minimum)

1.141 in. (28.98 mm)

runout

0.16 in. (0.41 mm)

Current draw

Normal

140-180 amps

Maximum

200 amps

Maximum no-load current @ 11.5 volts

90 amps

Minimum no-load speed @ 11.5 volts

3000 rpm

Stall torque

1986-1990 models

883 models

5 ft.-lb. (min) @ 2.5 volts

1100 and 1200 models

8.7 ft.-lb. (min) @ 2.5 volts

1991-1994 models

883 models

5 ft.-lb. (min) @ 2.5 volts

1200 models

8.1 ft.-lb. (min) @ 2.4 volts

1995-2003 models

8.1 ft.-lb. (min) @ 2.4 volts

464

CHAPTER TWELVE

Table 4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

ft.-lb.

in.-lb.

N•m

Bank angle sensor bolt

–

15-20

1.5-2

Cable nuts

–

65-80

7-9

Cam position sensor

1200S models

–

12-20

1.5-2

Electrical bracket bolt

–

6-9

0.5-1

Fuel tank mounting bolts

1986-1987 models

–

1988-1992 models

–

108

1993-2003 models

–

96-192

11-22

Handlebar switch housing

screws

–

35-45

4-5

Headlight switch housing

system (1996-2003 models)

–

35-45

4-5

Headlight adjust nut

–

120-240

14-27

Headlight bracket bolts

–

120-192

14-22

Horn locknut

1100 and 1200 models except

1200C models

–

110

Horn mounting bolt

1996-2003 883
and 1200S models

–

6-9

0.5-1

Ignition coil mounting

bolts

–

24-72

3-8

Ignition module moutning

bolts 1986-1997 models

–

15-21

1.5-2.5

Ignition switch nut

1991-1994 models

–

Ignition switch retaining screw

1995-2003 models

–

35-45

4-5

Master cylinder clamp screws

1996-2003 models

–

70-80

8-9

Neutral indicator switch

–

36-60

4-7

Oil pressure switch

–

60-84

7-9

Rear brake light switch

–

84-120

9-14

Rotor bolt

–

43-53

5-6

Rotor-to-engine sprocket bolts

–

90-110

10-12

Speedometer sensor screw

–

80-100

9-11

Starter mounting bolts

13-20

–

18-27

Starter throughbolts

1986-1990 models

–

20-25

2-3

1991-1994 models

883 models

–

20-25

2-3

1200 models

–

39-65

4-7

1995-2003 models

–

39-65

4-7

Stator Torx screws

–

30-40

3-4.5

Taillight base mounting screws

–

45-48

5-5.5

Taillight lens mounting screws

–

20-24

2-3

Timer screws

Inner cover and sensor plate

–

15-20

1.5-2

Top center engine bracket

Torx screw

–

60-120

7-14

Turn signal module screw

–

36-60

4-7

Vacuum operated electric switch

1986-1990 models

Mounting bracket bolt

–

Ground wire bolt

25-30

–

34-41

1991-1993 models

Mounting bracket locknut

–

60-144

7-16

Ground wire bolt

25-30

–

34-41

1994-2003 models

Mounting bracket locknut

–

60-144

7-16

1. Apply threadlock (Loctite 243 or equivalent).
2. Apply threadlock (Loctite 242 or equivalent).

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

465

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

WHEELS, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

This chapter covers the front and rear wheels, wheel

hubs, tire service and the drive belt or drive chain. For rou-
tine maintenance, see Chapter Three.

Tables 1-13 are located at the end of this chapter.

MOTORCYCLE STANDS

Many procedures in this chapter require lifting the front

or rear wheel off the ground. A motorcycle front end stand
(Figure 1), swing arm stand or suitable size jack is re-
quired. Before purchasing or using a stand, check the man-
ufacturer’s instructions to make sure the stand will work
with the specific model being worked on. If any adjust-
ments or accessories are required, perform the necessary
adjustments and install the correct parts before lifting the
motorcycle. When using the stand, have an assistant stand-
ing by to help. Some means to tie down one end of the mo-
torcycle may also be required. Make sure the motorcycle is
properly supported on the stand.

If a motorcycle stand is not available, use a scissor jack

(Figure 2) with adapters that fit onto the frame tubes (Fig-
ure 3, typical).

FRONT WHEEL

Removal

1. Support the motorcycle so the front wheel clears the
ground.
2. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (Figure 4) and
lift the caliper away from the brake disc. Support the caliper
so it is not hanging from the brake line.
3. Place a spacer between the brake pads (Figure 5) in
place of the disc. If the brake lever is inadvertently applied,
the pistons will not be forced out of the caliper. If the pis-
tons are forced out, disassemble the caliper and reseat the
pistons as described in Chapter Sixteen.
4. Remove the axle nut (Figure 6), lockwasher and flat
washer.
5A. On 1986-1987 models, loosen the lower fork cap (Fig-
ure 7) nuts on both sides.
5B. On 1988-2003 models, loosen the front axle pinch bolt
nut (A, Figure 8). Do not remove the pinch bolt.
6. Tap the end of the axle (B, Figure 8) with a soft-faced
mallet and remove it from the wheel. If the axle is tight, tap
the end of the axle with a brass or aluminum drift.
7. Pull the wheel away from the fork sliders slightly.

NOTE

Identify the wheel spacers during removal so
they can be returned to their original posi-
tions.

8A. On 1986-1994 models, remove the speedometer drive
gear and felt washer (Figure 9).
8B. On 1995-2003 models, remove the spacer.
9. Remove the right axle spacer (Figure 10), if necessary.

CAUTION

Do not set the wheel down on the brake disc
surface, as it may be damaged.

10. Inspect the front wheel as described in this section.

Installation

1. Clean the axle in solvent and dry thoroughly. Make sure
the axle bearing surfaces on both fork sliders and the axle
are free from burrs and nicks.
2. Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle
shaft prior to installation.
3. Install the right axle spacer (Figure 10), if removed.
4A. On 1988-1994 models, install the felt seal (Figure 9)
onto the speedometer drive and install the speedometer
drive pin into the brake disc notch (Figure 11).
4B. On 1995-2003 models, install the spacer in the left side
of the hub.
5. Hold the speedometer drive or the spacer in position and
install the wheel between the fork sliders.
6. Insert the axle (B, Figure 8) through the front forks and
wheel from the right side.
7. Install the flat washer, lockwasher and axle nut (Figure
6) finger-tight.
8A. On 1986-1987 models, tighten the lower fork cap
nuts (Figure 7) on the left side to 132 in.-lb. (15 N•m). In-
sert a rod through the axle hole to hold the axle in place
and tighten the axle nut (Figure 6) to 50 ft.-lb. (68 N•m).
Tighten the lower fork cap nuts on the right side to 132
in.-lb. (15 N•m). Make sure the gaps between the cap and
fork slider are equal front and rear. Remove the rod from
the axle hole.
8B. On 1988-2003 models, insert a rod through the axle
hole to hold the axle in place and tighten the axle nut (Fig-
ure 6) to 50-55 ft.-lb. (68-75 N•m). Tighten the front axle
pinch bolt nut (A, Figure 8) to 21-27 ft.-lb. (28-37 N•m).
Remove the rod from the axle hole.
9. Perform the

Front Wheel Bearing End Play Check

as de-

scribed in this section.
10. Remove the spacer from the brake caliper pads. Then
insert the brake disc between the pads when installing the
brake caliper. Do not damage the leading edge of the brake
pads when installing the brake caliper. Tighten the brake
caliper bolts (Figure 4) to 25-30 ft.-lb. (34-41 N•m).
11. After the wheel and brake are completely installed, ro-
tate the wheel several times and apply the front brake a cou-

ple of times to make sure the wheel rotates freely and that
the brake pads seat against the brake disc correctly.

Inspection

Replace worn or damaged parts as described in this sec-

tion.

1A. On 1986-1999 models, these models are equipped
with tapered roller bearings. Turn the bearing and check
for roughness. If one bearing is damaged, replace both
bearings as a set. Refer to

Front Hub

and

Rear Hub

in this

chapter.

468

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

1B. On 2000-2003 models, these models are equipped with
sealed ball bearings. Turn each bearing inner race by hand.
The bearing should turn smoothly. Some axial play is nor-
mal, but radial play should be negligible. See Figure 12. If
one bearing is damaged, replace both bearings as a set. Re-
fer to the

Front Hub

and

Rear Hub

in this chapter.

2. Clean the axle and axle spacers in solvent to remove all
grease and dirt. Make sure the axle contact surfaces are
clean and free of dirt and old grease.

3. Check the axle runout with a set of V-blocks and a dial
indicator (Figure 13).

4. Check the spacers for wear, burrs and damage.

5. Check the brake disc bolts for tightness. To service the
brake disc, refer to Chapter Sixteen.
6. Check wheel runout and spoke tension, if applicable, as
described in this chapter.

Front Wheel Bearing End Play Check

On 1986-early 1991 models, adjust end play by varying

the length of the spacer sleeve between the wheel bearings.
On late 1991-1999 models, adjust end play using spacer
shims installed between the spacer sleeve and shoulder
washer. End play is not adjustable on 2000-2003 models.
See Figure 14, Figure 15, Figure 16 or Figure 17. Exces-
sive end play can cause bearing side loading and premature
bearing failure. Wear in this area can be gauged by check-
ing front wheel bearing end play each time the front wheel
is removed. On 2000-2003 models, excessive end play in-
dicates worn bearings.

After tightening the axle nut, check the front wheel bear-

ing end play as follows.

NOTE

The front wheel must be installed on the mo-
torcycle and off the ground when performing
the following. Make sure the motorcycle is
supported securely.

1. Tighten the front axle as described in this section.
2. Mount a dial indicator so that the plunger contacts the
end of the axle (Figure 18). Then grasp the wheel and at-
tempt to move the wheel back and forth by pushing and
pulling it along the axle centerline. Measure axle end play
by observing the dial indicator needle.
3. If the end play exceeds the specifications in Table 1,
check front wheel installation. If the end play is incorrect,
note the following:

a. On 1986-early 1991 models, replace the spacer

sleeve with a longer or shorter one. See Table 3 for
spacer sleeve lengths.

b. On late 1991-1999 models, replace the spacer shim

with a thicker or thinner one. See Table 4 for spacer
shim thicknesses.

c. On 2000-2003 models, replace the wheel bearings if

end play is excessive.

d. On all models, remove the wheel and service the front

hub as described in

Front Hub

in this chapter.

e. Install the front wheel as described in this section.
f. Recheck the bearing end play measurement.

FRONT HUB

(1986-1999 MODELS)

Tapered roller bearings are installed on each side of the

hub. Seals are installed on the outside of each bearing to
protect them from dirt and other contaminants. The bear-
ings can be removed from the hub after removing the outer

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

469

Axial

Radial

seals. The bearing races are pressed into the hub and should
not be removed unless they require replacement.

Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly

Refer to Figure 14 or Figure 15.

NOTE

The bearings and races are matched pairs.
Label all parts so they may be returned to
their original positions.

1. Remove the front wheel as described in this chapter.
2. If necessary, remove the brake disc as described in
Chapter Sixteen.
3. If necessary, remove the hub plates on cast wheel.
4. Pry the oil seals out of the hub. If using a screwdriver,
place a rag underneath the screwdriver (Figure 19) to avoid
damaging the hub.
5. Remove the bearing assemblies (Figure 20) and spacer
sleeve. On late 1991-1999 models, remove the shoulder
washer and spacer shim(s).
6. Wash the bearings thoroughly in solvent and dry with
compressed air. Wipe the bearing races off with a clean rag
dipped in solvent. Then check the roller bearings and races
for wear, pitting or excessive heat (bluish tint). Replace the
bearing and races as a complete set. Replace the bearing
races as described in Step 7. If the bearing and its race do
not require replacement, proceed to Step 8. If reinstalling
the original bearing(s), pack the bearing thoroughly with
grease and wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth or wax paper.
Wipe a film of grease across the bearing race.

CAUTION

If the proper size tool to drive the race into the
hub is not available, have a dealership install
the race. Do not attempt to install the race by
driving it into the hub with a small diameter
punch or rod.

7. Replace the bearing races (Figure 21, typical) as fol-
lows:

a. A universal bearing remover should be used to re-

move the races from the hub. If this tool is unavail-
able, insert a drift punch through the hub and tap the
race out of the hub with a hammer. Move the punch
around the race to make sure the race is driven
squarely out of the hub. Do not allow the race to bind
in the hub as this can damage the race bore in the hub.
Severe damage to the race bore will require replace-
ment of the hub.

b. Clean the inside and outside of the hub with solvent.

Dry with compressed air.

c. Wipe the outside of the new race with oil and align it

with the hub. Using a bearing driver or socket with an
outside diameter slightly smaller than the bearing
race, drive the race into the hub until it bottoms on the
hub shoulder. Be sure the race is square with the hub

bore. Do not allow the race to bind during installa-
tion.

8. Make sure the hub is clean prior to installing the bear-
ings.
9. Lubricate the ends of the spacer sleeve with grease and
install it into the hub.
10. On late 1991-1999 models, perform the following:

a. Install the spacer shim(s) into the left side of the hub

and rest it against the hub counterbore.

b. Install the shoulder washer into the hub, with its

shoulder side facing out, and seat it against the spacer
shim(s).

11. Lubricate each bearing race with grease.

472

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

Front axle

Magnetic base

12. Pack the bearings with grease and install them in the
bearing races.
13. Pack the seal lip cavity of each new seal with grease.
14. The seals are identical and can be installed on either side.
15. Install the seals using a bearing driver or socket with an
outer diameter slightly smaller than the seal (Figure 22).
Drive the oil seals into the hub until they are flush with the
hub or recessed 0.020 in. (0.51 mm) below the hub surface.
16. If the brake disc was removed, install it as described in
Chapter Sixteen.
17. If the hub plate was removed on cast wheels, install the
hub and secure it with new Torx screws. Tighten the hub
plate Torx screws to 16-24 ft.-lb. (22-33 N•m).

18. After the wheel is installed on the motorcycle and the
front axle tightened to specification, check the bearing end
play as described in this chapter.
19. If the hub on spoke wheels is damaged, the hub can be
replaced by removing the spokes and assembling a new
hub. If the hub on cast wheels is damaged, the wheel assem-
bly must be replaced; it cannot be repaired.

FRONT HUB

(2000-2003 MODELS)

Sealed ball bearings are installed on each side of the hub.

Do not remove the bearing assemblies unless they require
replacement.

Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly

Refer to Figure 16 or Figure 17.

CAUTION

Do not remove the wheel bearings for inspec-
tion as they will be damaged during the re-
moval process. Remove wheel bearings only
if replacement is required.

1. Remove the front wheel as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the axle spacers from each side of the hub if
they are still in place.

CAUTION

Make sure the brake disc(s) will not be dam-
aged while performing the following proce-
dure. If damage may occur, remove the brake
disc(s) as described n Chapter Sixteen.

3. If necessary, remove the bolts securing the brake disc(s)
(Figure 23) and remove the disc(s).
4. Inspect the wheel bearings. If they must be replaced,
proceed as follows.

WARNING

Make sure to wear eye protection when re-
moving the bearings.

5A. If not using a wheel bearing remover, perform the fol-
lowing:

a. To remove the right and left bearings and spacer

sleeve, insert a soft aluminum or brass drift into one
side of the hub.

b. Push the spacer to one side and place the drift on the

inner race of the lower bearing.

c. Tap the bearing out of the hub with a hammer, work-

ing around the perimeter of the inner race (Figure
24). Remove the bearing and spacer.

d. Repeat substeps b and c for the bearing on the other

side.

5B. To remove the bearings with a bearing remover, per-
form the following:

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

473

a. Select the correct size remover head tool and insert it

into the bearing.

b. Turn the wheel over and insert the remover shaft into

the backside of the adapter. Tap the wedge and force
it into the slit in the adapter. This forces the adapter
against the bearing inner race. Refer to Figure 25.

c. Tap the end of the wedge bar with a hammer to drive

the bearing out of the hub. Remove the bearing and
the spacer.

d. Repeat substeps a-c for the bearing on the other side.

6. Clean the inside and the outside of the hub with solvent.
Dry it with compressed air.

Assembly

CAUTION

The removal process damages the bearings.
Replace the wheel bearings in pairs. Never
reinstall bearings after they are removed. Al-
ways install new bearings.

1. Thoroughly clean the hub prior to installing the new
bearings.
2. Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the bearing
seating areas of the hub. This makes bearing installation
easier.

CAUTION

Install non-sealed bearings with the single
sealed side facing out. Tap the bearings
squarely into place and tap on the outer race
only. Do not tap on the inner race or the bear-
ing will be damaged. Make sure the bearings
are completely seated.

3. Select a driver, or socket (Figure 26), with an outside
diameter slightly smaller than the bearing’s outside diam-
eter.
4. Tap on the outer race of the bearing until the bearing bot-
toms in the hub bore. Be sure the bearing is square in the bore.
5. Turn the wheel over and install the spacer.
6. Use the same tool set-up to drive in the remaining bearing.
7. If removed, install the removed brake disc(s) as de-
scribed in Chapter Sixteen.
8. Install the front wheel as described in this chapter.

REAR WHEEL

All models may be equipped with a laced or spoked cast

rear wheel. Models after 1999 may also be equipped with a
disc cast rear wheel. Service information for cast wheels
applies to both spoked and disc type wheels.

Removal

1. Support the motorcycle so the rear wheel is off the ground.

NOTE

The rear wheel is heavy and can be difficult to
remove. Check the tire-to-ground clearance
before removing the rear axle. If necessary,
have an assistant help in the removal or place
wooden blocks under the wheel.

2. Remove and discard the rear axle cotter pin (A, Figure 27).

3. Loosen the drive chain or belt adjusting locknuts and ad-
juster bolts (B, Figure 27).

4. Loosen and remove the axle nut (C, Figure 27) and washer.

474

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

Spacer

Remover shaft

Remover

head

Bearing

Hub

Bearing

Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual - page 27