Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 102

caliper bore, to provide room for the new
brake pads. A C-clamp can be used to
accomplish this. As the piston is depressed to
the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the
master cylinder will rise slightly. Make sure
that there is sufficient space in the brake fluid
reservoir to accept the displaced fluid, and if
necessary, syphon some off first.
6 Fit the new pads using a reversal of the
removal procedure, but tighten the guide
bolts to the torque wrench setting given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter.
7 On completion, firmly depress the brake

pedal a few times, to bring the pads to their
normal working position. Check the level of
the brake fluid in the reservoir, and top-up if
necessary.
8 Give the vehicle a short road test, to make
sure that the brakes are functioning correctly,
and to bed-in the new linings to the contours
of the disc. New linings will not provide
maximum braking efficiency until they have
bedded-in; avoid heavy braking as far as
possible for the first hundred miles or so.

Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the previous Section before proceeding.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front wheel.
2 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible hose
leading to the front brake caliper. This will
minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent
operations (see illustration).
3 Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible brake
hose (see illustration).
4 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.

3 Front brake caliper - 

removal, overhaul and refitting

9•4 Braking system

2.3B  Prise the plastic covers from the

ends of the two guide pins

2.3C  Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew . . .

2.3D  . . . and remove the guide bolts

securing the caliper to the carrier bracket

2.3E  Withdraw the caliper from the disc,

and support it on an axle stand to avoid

straining the hydraulic hose. The outer pad
will normally remain in position against the

disc, but the inner pad will stay attached to

the piston in the caliper

2.3F  Pull the inner pad from the piston in

the caliper

3.2  Brake hose clamp fitted to the front

flexible brake hose

3.3  Loosening the flexible brake hose at

the caliper

3.6  Removing the caliper carrier bracket

2.3G  Remove the outer pad from the

caliper frame. Brush all dust and dirt from

the caliper, pads and disc, but do not

inhale it, as it may be harmful to health.

Scrape any corrosion from the disc.

5 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the hydraulic hose from turning with
the other hand. Unscrew the caliper from the
hose, making sure that the hose is not twisted
unduly or strained. Once the caliper is
detached, plug the open hydraulic unions in
the caliper and hose, to keep out dust and
dirt.
6 If required, the caliper carrier bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the steering
knuckle (see illustration).

Overhaul

7 With the caliper on the bench, brush away
all traces of dust and dirt, but take care not to
inhale any dust, as it may be injurious to
health.
8 Pull the dust-excluding rubber seal from the
end of the piston.
9 Apply low air pressure to the fluid inlet
union, and eject the piston. Only low air
pressure is required for this, such as is
produced by a foot-operated tyre pump.

Caution: The piston may be
ejected with some force.

10 Using a suitable blunt instrument (for
instance a knitting needle or a crochet hook),
prise the piston seal from the groove in the
cylinder bore. Take care not to scratch the
surface of the bore.
11 Clean the piston and caliper body with
methylated spirit, and allow to dry. Examine the
surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore for wear,
damage and corrosion. If the piston alone is
unserviceable, a new piston must be obtained,
along with seals. If the cylinder bore is
unserviceable, the complete caliper must be
renewed. The seals must be renewed, regardless
of the condition of the other components.
12 Coat the piston and seals with clean
brake fluid, then manipulate the piston seal
into the groove in the cylinder bore.

13 Push the piston squarely into its bore.
14 Fit the dust-excluding rubber seal onto
the piston and caliper, then depress the
piston fully.

Refitting

15 Refit the caliper, and where applicable the
carrier bracket, by reversing the removal
operations. Make sure that the flexible brake
hose is not twisted. Tighten the mounting
bolts and wheel nuts to the specified torque
(see illustration).
16 Bleed the brake circuit according to the
procedure given in Section 15, remembering
to remove the brake hose clamp from the
flexible hose. Make sure there are no leaks
from the hose connections. Test the brakes
carefully before returning the vehicle to
normal service.

Note: To prevent uneven braking, BOTH front
brake discs should be renewed or reground at
the same time.

Inspection

1 Apply the handbrake. Loosen the relevant
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
wheel.
2 Remove the front brake caliper and carrier
bracket with reference to Section 3, but do
not disconnect the flexible hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or suspend it out of
the way with a piece of wire, taking care to
avoid straining the flexible hose.
3 Temporarily refit two of the wheel nuts to
diagonally-opposite studs, with the flat sides
of the nuts against the disc. Tighten the nuts
progressively, to hold the disc firmly.
4 Scrape any corrosion from the disc. Rotate
the disc, and examine it for deep scoring,
grooving or cracks. Using a micrometer,
measure the thickness of the disc in several
places. The minimum thickness is stamped on
the disc hub (see illustrations). Light wear
and scoring is normal, but if excessive, the

disc should be removed, and either reground
by a specialist, or renewed. If regrinding is
undertaken, the minimum thickness must be
maintained. Obviously, if the disc is cracked,
it must be renewed.
5 Using a dial gauge or a flat metal block and
feeler gauges, check that the disc run-out 
10 mm from the outer edge does not exceed
the limit given in the Specifications. To do
this, fix the measuring equipment, and rotate
the disc, noting the variation in measurement
as the disc is rotated (see illustration). The
difference between the minimum and
maximum measurements recorded is the disc
run-out.
6 If the run-out is greater than the specified
amount, check for variations of the disc
thickness as follows. Mark the disc at eight
positions 45° apart, then using a micrometer,
measure the disc thickness at the eight
positions, 15 mm in from the outer edge. If the
variation between the minimum and maximum
readings is greater than the specified amount,
the disc should be renewed.
7 The hub face run-out can also be checked
in a similar way. First remove the disc as
described later in this Section, fix the
measuring equipment, then slowly rotate the
hub, and check that the run-out does not
exceed the amount given in the
Specifications. If the hub face run-out is
excessive, this should be corrected (by
renewing the hub bearings - see Chapter 10)
before rechecking the disc run-out.

4 Front brake disc - inspection,

removal and refitting

Braking system  9•5

9

4.5  Measuring the disc run-out with a dial

gauge

3.15  Tightening the carrier bracket

mounting bolts

4.4A  Using a micrometer to measure the

thickness of the front brake disc

4.4B  Disc minimum thickness marking

Position a thin piece of wood
between the piston and the
caliper body, to prevent
damage to the end face of the

piston, in the event of it being ejected
suddenly.

Removal

8 With the wheel and caliper removed,
remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 3.
9 Mark the disc in relation to the hub, if it is to
be refitted.
10 Remove the two special washers (where
fitted), and withdraw the disc over the wheel
studs (see illustrations).

Refitting

11 Make sure that the disc and hub mating
surfaces are clean, then locate the disc on the
wheel studs. Align the previously-made marks
if the original disc is being refitted.
12 Refit the two special washers, where
fitted.
13 Refit the brake caliper and carrier bracket
with reference to Section 3.
14 Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
15 Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.

Note: To prevent uneven braking, BOTH rear
brake drums should be renewed at the same
time.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and engage 1st gear (or “P”).

Loosen the relevant wheel nuts, jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the wheel.
2 Remove the two special clips (where fitted),
and withdraw the brake drum over the wheel
studs. If the drum will not pass over the
shoes, it is possible to release the automatic
adjuster mechanism by prising out the small
rubber grommet near the centre of the
backplate, and inserting a screwdriver
through the small hole. The self-adjusting
ratchet can then be rotated, so that the brake
shoes move to their lowest setting (see
illustrations). Refit the rubber grommet
before proceeding.
3 With the brake drum removed, clean the
dust from the drum, brake shoes, wheel
cylinder and backplate, using brake cleaner or
methylated spirit. Take care not to inhale the
dust, as it may contain asbestos.

Inspection

4 Clean the inside surfaces of the brake
drum, then examine the internal friction
surface for signs of scoring or cracks. If it is
cracked, deeply scored, or has worn to a
diameter greater than the maximum given in
the Specifications, then it should be renewed,
together with the drum on the other side.
5 Regrinding of the brake drum is not
recommended.

Refitting

6 Locate the brake drum over the wheel
studs, and (where fitted) refit the special clips.

Make sure that the drum contacts the hub
flange.
7 Refit the wheel, then check the remaining
rear drum.
8 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
Depress the brake pedal several times, in
order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism
and set the shoes at their normal operating
position.
9 Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.

Warning: Drum brake shoes must
be renewed on both rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the shoes on only one wheel, as

uneven braking may result. Also, the dust
created by wear of the shoes may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask
should be worn when working on the
brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts; use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Remove the rear brake drums as described
in Section 5. Work on one brake assembly at a
time, using the assembled brake for reference
if necessary.
2 Follow the accompanying illustrations for
the brake shoe renewal procedure (see
illustrations 6.2A to 6.2O). Be sure to stay in
order, and read the caption under each
illustration.
3 If the wheel cylinder shows signs of fluid
leakage, or if there is any reason to suspect it
of being defective, inspect it now, as
described in the next Section.
4 Fit the new brake shoes using a reversal of
the removal procedure, but set the eccentric
cam at its lowest position before assembling it
to the trailing shoe.
5 Before refitting the brake drum, it should be
checked as described in Section 5.

6 Rear brake shoes - renewal

5 Rear brake drum - removal,

inspection and refitting

9•6 Braking system

4.10A  Remove the special washers . . .

4.10B  . . . and withdraw the disc

5.2A  Releasing the automatic adjuster

mechanism with a screwdriver inserted

through the small hole in the backplate

5.2B  Removing a rear brake drum

6.2A  Note the fitted position of the springs

and the adjuster strut, then clean the

components with brake cleaner, and allow

to dry. Position a tray beneath the

backplate, to catch the fluid and residue

Braking system  9•7

9

6.2K  Pull the handbrake cable spring back

from the operating lever on the rear of the

trailing shoe. Unhook the cable end from the

cut-out in the lever, and remove the shoe

6.2L  Unhook the automatic adjustment

strut from the trailing brake shoe . . .

6.2M  . . . and remove the small spring

6.2B  Remove the two shoe hold-down

springs, using a pair of pliers to depress

the upper ends so that they can be

withdrawn downwards off the pins

6.2C  Remove the hold-down pins from the

backplate

6.2D  Pull the bottom end of the leading

(front) brake shoe from the bottom anchor

(use pliers or an adjustable spanner over

the edge of the shoe to lever it away)

6.2E  Release the trailing (rear) brake shoe

from the anchor, then move the bottom
ends of both shoes towards each other

6.2F  Unhook the lower return spring from

the shoes, noting the location holes

6.2G  Move the bottom ends of the brake

shoes together, and disconnect the top

ends of the shoes from the wheel cylinder,

taking care not to damage the rubber boots

6.2H  Unhook the upper return spring from

the shoes . . .

6.2I  . . . and withdraw the leading shoe

from the backplate

6.2J  To prevent the wheel cylinder pistons

from being accidentally ejected, fit a

suitable elastic band or wire lengthwise

over the cylinder/pistons. Don’t press the
brake pedal while the shoes are removed