Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 44

7 Support the radiator in its raised position,
by inserting split pins through the small holes
in the radiator mounting extensions which
protrude through the upper mountings (see
illustration).
8 Unbolt and remove the radiator lower
mounting brackets.
9 Where applicable, unscrew the bolts
securing the air conditioning accumulator to
the subframe.
10 Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the
engine rear mounting from the transmission
and underbody.
11 Unscrew the front engine mounting-to-
cylinder block bolts, and also the through-
bolt.
12 Extract the split pins from the track rod
end balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and
detach the rods from the arms on the steering
knuckles using a conventional balljoint
removal tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seals.
13 Working on each side in turn, unscrew the
mounting nuts, and remove the anti-roll bar
links from the front suspension struts. Note
that, on models fitted with ABS, the ABS
sensor wiring support brackets are located
beneath the nuts.
14 Working on each side in turn, note which
way round the front suspension lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle - if it is
tight, prise the joint open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
15 Support the weight of the front subframe
assembly on two trolley jacks (or two scissor
jacks).
16 Unscrew and remove the subframe
mounting bolts, then lower the subframe
sufficiently to gain access to the power
steering fluid pipes on top of the steering
gear. Note that the front subframe mounting

bolts are gold in colour - the rear ones are
silver.
17 Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts
securing the power steering fluid supply,
return, and cooler lines to the steering gear.
Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the
clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the
fluid to drain into the container. Cover the
apertures in the steering gear and also the
ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit.
18 Lower the subframe, together with the
power steering gear, to the ground.
19 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the power steering gear from the subframe.
20 Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the
clamp bolt securing the flexible coupling to
the pinion shaft on the steering gear, and
withdraw the coupling.
21 Refer to Section 30, paragraph 8 for
details of renewing the Teflon rings.

Refitting

22 Refit the flexible coupling to the pinion
shaft on the steering gear, then insert and
tighten the clamp bolt using an Allen key.
23 Locate the power steering gear on the
subframe, then insert the mounting bolts and
tighten to the specified torque.
24 Raise the subframe until it is possible to
refit the fluid lines. Tighten the union nuts and
clamps.
25 Raise the subframe, making sure that the
alignment holes are in line with the holes in
the underbody. At the same time, make sure
that the flexible coupling locates correctly on
the steering column. Ford technicians use a
special tool to ensure that the subframe is
correctly aligned - refer to Chapter 2 for more
details of the alignment procedure. With the
subframe aligned, insert and tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque. Note
that the front mounting bolts are gold in
colour - the rear bolts are silver.
26 Working on each side in turn, refit the
front suspension lower arm balljoint to the
knuckle assembly, and insert the clamp bolt
with its head facing forwards. Refit the nut
and tighten to the specified torque.
27 Working on each side in turn, refit the
anti-roll bar links and tighten the mounting
nuts to the specified torque. On models fitted
with ABS, don’t forget to locate the wheel
sensor wiring support brackets beneath the
nuts.
28 Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Check if the split pin holes
are aligned, and if necessary turn the nuts to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert new split pins, and
bend them back to secure.
29 Refit and tighten the engine front
mounting bolts.
30 Refit the engine rear mounting and tighten
the bolts.

31 Where applicable, insert and tighten the
air conditioning accumulator bolts.
32 Refit the radiator lower mounting brackets
and tighten the bolts.
33 Remove the split pins supporting the
radiator in its raised position.
34 Refit the cover under the radiator.
35 Refit the exhaust downpipe as described
in Chapter 4.
36 On manual transmission models,
reconnect the gearchange linkage and
support rods.
37 Refit the front wheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
38 Working inside the vehicle, reconnect the
steering column clamp plate, then insert the
bolt and tighten to the specified torque.
39 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
40 Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
41 Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).

1 Remove the track rod end and its locknut
from the track rod, as described in Section 35.
Make sure that a note is made of the exact
position of the track rod end on the track rod,
in order to retain the front wheel alignment
setting on refitting.
2 Release the outer retaining clip and inner
plastic clamp band, and disconnect the gaiter
from the steering gear housing.
3 Disconnect the breather from the gaiter,
then slide the gaiter off the track rod.
4 Scrape off all grease from the old gaiter,
and apply to the track rod inner joint. Wipe
clean the seating areas on the steering gear
housing and track rod.
5 Slide the new gaiter onto the track rod and
steering gear housing, and reconnect the
breather.
6 Fit a new inner plastic clamp band and
outer retaining clip.
7 Refit the track rod end as described in
Section 35.
8 Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).

1 Following any operation in which the power
steering fluid lines have been disconnected,
the power steering system must be bled, to
remove any trapped air.
2 With the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, check the power steering fluid level
in the reservoir and, if low, add fresh fluid until
it reaches the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” mark.
Pour the fluid slowly, to prevent air bubbles
forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer
to Chapter 1 Specifications).

33 Power steering hydraulic

system - bleeding

32 Power steering gear rubber

gaiters - renewal

Suspension and steering systems  10•21

10

31.7  Method of supporting the radiator in

its raised position

1  Radiator upper mounting extension
2  Small hole
3  Pin or split pin inserted through hole

3 Start the engine, and allow it to run at a fast
idle. Check the hoses and connections for
leaks.
4 Stop the engine, and recheck the fluid level.
Add more if necessary, up to the “MAX” or
“MAX COLD” mark.
5 Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then
bleed the system by slowly turning the
steering wheel from side to side several times.
This should purge the system of all internal
air. However, if air remains in the system
(indicated by the steering operation being very
noisy), leave the vehicle overnight, and repeat
the procedure again the next day.
6 If air still remains in the system, it may be
necessary to resort to the Ford method of
bleeding, which uses a vacuum pump. Turn
the steering to the right until it is near the stop,
then fit the vacuum pump to the fluid
reservoir, and apply 0.15 bars of vacuum.
Maintain the vacuum for a minimum of 
5 minutes, then repeat the procedure with the
steering turned to the left.
7 Keep the fluid level topped-up throughout
the bleeding procedure; note that, as the fluid
temperature increases, the level will rise.
8 On completion, switch off the engine, and
return the front wheels to the straight-ahead
position.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
hydraulic fluid line support to the engine lifting
bracket on the right-hand side of the engine.
3 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
hydraulic fluid line support to the pump
mounting bracket.
4 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering pump, to catch spilt fluid.
5 Loosen the clip, and disconnect the fluid
supply hose from the pump inlet. Plug the
hose, to prevent the ingress of dust and dirt.
6 Unscrew the union nut, and disconnect the
high-pressure line from the pump. Allow the
fluid to drain into the container.
7 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the right-hand front wheel.
8 Unbolt and remove the lower drivebelt
cover.
9 Using a spanner, rotate the drivebelt
tensioner in a clockwise direction to release
the belt tension, then slip the drivebelt off the
pulleys and remove from the vehicle. Refer to
Chapter 1 if necessary.
10 Unscrew and remove the four mounting
bolts, and withdraw the power steering pump
from its bracket. Access to the bolts on the
right-hand side of the engine is gained by
turning the pump pulley until a hole lines up
with the bolt.

Refitting

11 Locate the power steering pump on the
mounting bracket, and secure with the four
bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
12 Slip the drivebelt over the pulleys, then
rotate the drivebelt tensioner in a clockwise
direction, and locate the drivebelt on it.
Release the tensioner to tension the drivebelt.
13 Refit the lower belt cover.
14 Refit the right-hand front wheel, and lower
the vehicle to the ground.
15 If necessary, the sealing ring on the high-
pressure outlet should be renewed, using the
same procedure as described in Section 30,
paragraph 8.
16 Reconnect the high-pressure line to the
pump, and tighten the union nut.
17 Reconnect the fluid supply hose to the
pump inlet, and tighten the clip.
18 Refit the hydraulic fluid line support to the
pump mounting bracket, and tighten the bolt.
19 Refit the hydraulic fluid line support to the
engine lifting bracket on the right-hand side of
the engine, and tighten the bolt.
20 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
21 Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Using a suitable spanner, slacken the
locknut on the track rod by a quarter-turn.
Hold the track rod end stationary with another
spanner engaged with the special flats while
loosening the locknut.
3 Extract the split pin, then unscrew and
remove the track rod end balljoint retaining
nut.
4 To release the tapered shank of the balljoint
from the steering knuckle arm, use a balljoint
separator tool (if the balljoint is to be re-used,
take care not to damage the dust cover when
using the separator tool) (see illustration).
5 Count the number of exposed threads
visible on the inner section of the track rod,
and record this figure.
6 Unscrew the track rod end from the track
rod, counting the number of turns necessary
to remove it. If necessary, hold the track rod
stationary with grips.

Refitting

7 Screw the track rod end onto the track rod
by the number of turns noted during removal,
until it just contacts the locknut.
8 Engage the shank of the balljoint with the
steering knuckle arm, and refit the nut.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque. If the
balljoint shank turns while the nut is being
tightened, press down on the balljoint. The
tapered fit of the shank will lock it, and
prevent rotation as the nut is tightened.

9 Check that the split pin holes in the nut and
balljoint shank are aligned. If necessary turn
the nut to the nearest alignment, making sure
that the torque wrench setting is still within
the specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
10 Now tighten the locknut, while holding the
track rod end as before.
11 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
12 Finally check, and if necessary adjust, the
front wheel alignment as described in Sec-
tion 29.

1 Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide positive steering, and to prevent
excessive tyre wear. Before considering the
steering/suspension geometry, check that the
tyres are correctly inflated, that the front
wheels are not buckled, and that the steering
linkage and suspension joints are in good
order, without slackness or wear.
2 Wheel alignment consists of four factors
(see illustration):

Camber is the angle at which the front

wheels are set from the vertical, when viewed
from the front of the vehicle. “Positive
camber” is the amount (in degrees) that the
wheels are tilted outward at the top of the
vertical.  Castor is the angle between the
steering axis and a vertical line, when viewed
from each side of the car. “Positive castor” is
when the steering axis is inclined rearward at
the top.

Steering axis inclination is the angle (when

viewed from the front of the vehicle) between
the vertical and an imaginary line drawn
through the suspension strut upper mounting
and the lower suspension arm balljoint.

Toe setting is the amount by which the

distance between the front inside edges of the
roadwheels (measured at hub height) differs
from the diametrically-opposite distance
measured between the rear inside edges of
the front roadwheels.
3 With the exception of the toe setting, all
other steering angles are set during
manufacture, and no adjustment is possible. It

36 Wheel alignment and steering

angles - general information

35 Track rod end - renewal

34 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

10•22 Suspension and steering systems

35.4  Using a balljoint separator tool to

release the track rod end balljoint

can be assumed, therefore, that unless the
vehicle has suffered accident damage, all the
preset steering angles will be correct. Should
there be some doubt about their accuracy, it
will be necessary to seek the help of a Ford
dealer, as special gauges are needed to
check the steering angles.
4 Two methods are available to the home
mechanic for checking the toe setting. One
method is to use a gauge to measure the
distance between the front and rear inside
edges of the roadwheels. The other method is
to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel
is rolled across a movable plate which records
any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the
straight-ahead position as it moves across the
plate. Relatively-inexpensive equipment of
both types is available from accessory outlets.
5 If, after checking the toe setting using
whichever method is preferable, it is found
that adjustment is necessary, proceed as
follows.
6 Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock,
and record the number of exposed threads on
the right-hand track rod. Now turn the
steering onto full-right lock, and record the
number of threads on the left-hand track rod.

If there are the same number of threads visible
on both sides, then subsequent adjustment
can be made equally on both sides. If there
are more threads visible on one side than the
other, it will be necessary to compensate for
this during adjustment. After adjustment,
there must be the same number of threads
visible on each track rod. This is most
important.
7 To alter the toe setting, slacken the locknut
on the track rod, and turn the track rod using
self-locking pliers to achieve the desired
setting. When viewed from the side of the car,
turning the rod clockwise will increase the
toe-in, turning it anti-clockwise will increase
the toe-out. Only turn the track rods by a
quarter of a turn each time, and then recheck
the setting.
8 After adjustment, tighten the locknuts.
Reposition the steering gear rubber gaiters, to
remove any twist caused by turning the track
rods.
9 The rear wheel toe-setting may also be
checked and adjusted, but as this additionally
requires alignment with the front wheels, it
should be left to a Ford garage or specialist
having the special equipment required.

Suspension and steering systems  10•23

10

36.2  Wheel alignment and steering angles

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings

Body side-trim mouldings and adhesive emblems - removal 

and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Bonnet lock - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bonnet release cable and lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Boot lid - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Bumpers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Central locking system components - testing, removal and refitting  . 23
Centre console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Door - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 14
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door window glass - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door window regulator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Exterior mirror and glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Facia - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Glovebox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Interior mirror - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Maintenance - upholstery and carpets  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Overhead console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Radiator grille - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Seat belts - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Sunroof - general information and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Tailgate - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Wheel arch liner - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Windscreen and fixed windows - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 24

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Bonnet and tailgate hinges  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

18

Boot lid  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Front seat mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38

28

Seat belt mounting nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38

28

Bumper mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

11•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult, suitable
for competent DIY
mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

11

The bodyshell and underframe on all

models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The bulkhead behind the engine
compartment incorporates crash grooves
which determine its energy-absorption
characteristics, and special beams to prevent
the intrusion of the front wheels into the
passenger compartment during a serious
accident. All passenger doors incorporate
side impact bars.

All sheet metal surfaces which are prone to

corrosion are galvanized. The painting
process includes a base colour which closely
matches the final topcoat, so that any stone
damage is not noticeable.

Hatchback, Saloon and Estate versions are

available. The front section of the vehicle up to
the “B” pillar is identical on all models.

Automatic seat belts are fitted to all models,

and the front seat belt stalks are mounted on
automatic tensioners (also known as
“grabbers”) 

(see illustration). In the event of a

serious front impact, a spring mass sensor
releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk
buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt.
It is not possible to reset the tensioner once
fired, and it must therefore be renewed.

In the UK, central locking is standard on all

1 General information

1.4  Automatic seat belt tensioner

1  Coil spring

3  Spring mass sensor

2  Lever system