Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 12

throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4.
Where fitted, disconnect also the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
3 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 9).
4 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration).
5 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
6 Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
7 Discard the cover gasket; this must be
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that
the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
8 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see
illustration).
9 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start all
bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
10 Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
11 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each
is numbered, and can also be identified by
the numbering on its respective coil terminal.
12 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air cleaner assembly cover with
the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke,
or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in
or near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas appliance
(such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is
installed. If you spill petrol on your skin,
rinse it off immediately. Have a fire
extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy,
and know how to use it.

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly, and slacken the
nuts securing the right-hand front roadwheel.
2 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).

3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
4 Unplugging the two electrical connectors
and disconnecting the vacuum hose (where
fitted), remove the air cleaner assembly cover
with the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
5 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -
where fitted, disconnect also the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union.
7 Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield; unclip the coolant hose
to allow it to be withdrawn. Slacken the
sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the
manifold, remove the two screws securing
the pipe to the ignition coil bracket, then
unscrew the sleeve nut securing the pipe to
the EGR valve - see Chapter 6 for full details if
required.
8 Remove the two screws securing the wiring
“rail” to the top of the manifold - this is simply
so that it can be moved as required to reach
the manifold bolts. Unplug their electrical
connectors to disconnect the camshaft
position sensor and the coolant temperature
sensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignition
coil bracket, and secure it to the manifold.
9 Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the wiring of the

manifold components from the engine wiring
loom.
10 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing

(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).

(b) One from the union on the manifold’s left-

hand end.

(c) The braking system vacuum servo unit

hose (see Chapter 9 for details).

(d) One from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation

(EGR) valve.

11 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
12 Unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe and the earth lead from the cylinder
head rear support plate/engine lifting eye,
then unscrew the bolt securing the support
plate/lifting eye to the alternator mounting
bracket.
13 Unscrew the six nuts securing the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting
bracket, then withdraw the bracket.
14 Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5).
15 Unbolt the alternator mounting bracket
from the rear of the cylinder block and
withdraw it, together with the cylinder head
rear support plate/engine lifting eye (see
illustration).

6 Inlet manifold - 

removal and refitting

In-car engine repair procedures  2A•7

2A

5.8  Ensure gasket is located correctly in

cover groove

5.6  Removing cylinder head cover

5.9  Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each

cover bolt spacer, as shown

6.15  Alternator mounting bracket must be

unbolted from rear of cylinder block to

permit access to inlet manifold nut

16 Unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the
manifold to the cylinder head and withdraw it
(see illustration). Take care not to damage
vulnerable components such as the EGR pipe
and valve as the manifold assembly is
manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.

Refitting

17 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) When using a scraper and solvent to

remove all traces of old gasket material
and sealant from the manifold and
cylinder head, be careful to ensure that
you do not scratch or damage the
material of either; the cylinder head is of
aluminium alloy, while the manifold is a
plastics moulding - any solvents used
must be suitable for this application. If the
gasket was leaking, have the mating
surfaces checked for warpage at an
automotive machine shop. While it may
be possible to have the cylinder head
gasket surface skimmed if necessary, to
remove any distortion, the manifold must
be renewed if it is found to be warped,
cracked - check with special care around
the mounting points for components such
as the idle speed control valve and EGR
pipe - or otherwise faulty.

(b) Provided the relevant mating surfaces are

clean and flat, a new gasket will be

sufficient to ensure the joint is gas-tight.
Do not use any kind of silicone-based
sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold.

(c) Fit a new gasket, then locate the manifold

on the head and install the nuts and bolts
(see illustration).

(d) Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four

equal steps to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from the
centre outwards, to avoid warping the
manifold.

(e) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse

order of removal - tighten all fasteners to
the torque wrench settings specified.

(f)

When reassembling the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting,
renew the self-locking nuts, and do not
allow the mounting to twist as the middle
two of the bracket’s six nuts are
tightened.

(g) Before starting the engine, check the

accelerator cable for correct adjustment
and the throttle linkage for smooth
operation.

(h) When the engine is fully warmed up,

check for signs of fuel, intake and/or
vacuum leaks (see illustration).

(i)

Road test the vehicle, and check for
proper operation of all disturbed
components.

Warning: The engine must be
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.

Note: In addition to the new gasket and any
other parts, tools or facilities needed to carry
out this operation, a new plastic guide sleeve
will be required on reassembly.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
2 Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember,
slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4).
3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
4 Disconnect the coolant hose and the
coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat
housing; secure them clear of the working
area.
5 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,
and withdraw both parts of the shield (see
illustration). Apply penetrating oil to the EGR
pipe sleeve nut, and to the exhaust manifold
mounting nuts (also to the pulse-air system
sleeve nuts, if they are to be unscrewed).
6 Unscrew the sleeve nut securing the EGR
pipe to the manifold, remove the two screws
securing the pipe to the ignition coil bracket,
then slacken the sleeve nut securing the pipe
to the EGR valve - see Chapter 6 for full
details if required.
7 While the manifold can be removed with
the pulse-air system components attached -
unbolt the filter housing and disconnect its
vacuum hose if this is to be done - it is easier
to remove the pulse-air assembly first, as
described in Chapter 6 (see illustration).
8 Unplugging the oxygen sensor electrical
connector to avoid straining its wiring,
unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust
system front downpipe from the manifold (see
Chapter 4).

7 Exhaust manifold - removal,

inspection and refitting

2A•8 In-car engine repair procedures

6.16  Withdrawing inlet manifold - take

care not to damage delicate components

6.17A  Always renew inlet manifold gasket

- do not rely on sealants

6.17B  Check all disturbed components -

braking system vacuum servo unit hose

(arrowed) shown here - for leaks on

reassembly

7.5  Exhaust manifold heat shield upper

part securing bolts (arrowed)

7.7  Pulse-air system (sleeve nuts arrowed)

need not be removed unless required -

assembly can be withdrawn with exhaust

manifold

9 Remove the nuts and detach the manifold
and gasket (see illustration). Take care not
to damage vulnerable components such as
the EGR pipe as the manifold assembly is
manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.
When removing the manifold with the engine
in the vehicle, additional clearance can be
obtained by unscrewing the studs from the
cylinder head; a female Torx-type socket will
be required (see illustration).
10 Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, to
carefully-cleaned components (see below).
Do not attempt to re-use the original gasket.

Inspection

11 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old
gasket material and carbon deposits from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If
the gasket was leaking, have the manifold
checked for warpage at an automotive
machine shop, and have it resurfaced if
necessary.

Caution: When scraping, be very
careful not to gouge or scratch
the delicate aluminium alloy
cylinder head.

12 Provided both mating surfaces are clean
and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to
ensure the joint is gas-tight. Do not use any
kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the
catalytic converter.
13 Note that the downpipe is secured to the
manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring,
spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On
refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on the

bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will
then suffice to make a leakproof joint (see
illustrations).
14 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak
- the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and
the springs if a leak is found. The bolts
themselves are secured by spring clips to the
manifold, and can be renewed easily if
damaged (see illustration).

Refitting

15 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder

head studs, and fit a new plastic guide
sleeve to the stud nearest to the
thermostat housing, so that the manifold
will be correctly located (see illustration).
Do not refit the manifold without this
sleeve.

(b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten the

mounting nuts.

(c) Working from the centre out, and in three

or four equal steps, tighten the nuts to the
torque wrench setting given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter.

(d) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse

order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to
the specified torque wrench settings.

(e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(f)

Run the engine, and check for exhaust
leaks. Check the coolant level when fully
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either
remove the drivebelt completely, or just
secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,
depending on the work to be carried out (see
Chapter 1).
2 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the
timing marks align (see Section 4).
3 The crankshaft must now be locked to
prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is
unscrewed. Proceed as follows:
(a) If the engine/transmission is still installed

in the vehicle:

(1) If the vehicle is fitted with manual

transmission, select top gear, and have an
assistant apply the brakes hard.

(2) If the vehicle is fitted with automatic

transmission, unbolt the small metal cover
plate from the sump, and use a large
screwdriver or similar to lock the
driveplate ring gear teeth while an
assistant slackens the pulley bolt; take
care not to damage the teeth or the
surrounding castings when using this
method.

(b) If the engine/transmission has been

removed but not yet separated:

(1) If the vehicle is fitted with manual

transmission, remove the starter motor
(see Chapter 5) and lock the flywheel

8 Crankshaft pulley - 

removal and refitting

In-car engine repair procedures  2A•9

2A

7.13B  Renew exhaust system downpipe-

to-manifold gasket to prevent leaks

7.14  Release spring clip to extract

securing bolt from manifold, when required

7.15  Fit plastic guide sleeve to stud

arrowed when refitting exhaust manifold

7.9A  Unscrew nuts (arrowed) to remove

exhaust manifold . . .

7.9B  . . . studs can be unscrewed also, if

required, to provide additional working

space

7.13A  Showing exhaust downpipe-to-

manifold securing bolts - note coil spring,

and shoulder on bolt

using the method outlined in (2) above.

(2) If the vehicle is fitted with automatic

transmission, see (2) above.

(c) If the engine/transmission has been

removed and separated, use the method
shown in illustration 21.11.

4 Unscrew the pulley bolt and remove the
pulley (see illustrations).
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is
aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key,
and tighten the pulley bolt to the specified
torque wrench setting.

Upper cover

1 Unscrew the cover’s two mounting bolts
and withdraw it (see illustration).
2 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure the cover edges engage
correctly with each other, and note the torque
wrench setting specified for the bolts.

Middle cover

3 Unscrew the six nuts securing the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting
bracket, then withdraw the bracket.
4 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.
5 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
paragraph 1 above).
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley
(see illustration).
8 Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (one
bolt at the front, one at the lower rear, one
stud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover
(see illustration).
9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure the cover edges engage
correctly with each other, and note the torque
wrench settings specified for the various
fasteners. When reassembling the engine/
transmission right-hand mounting, renew the
self-locking nuts, and do not allow the
mounting to twist as the middle two of the
bracket’s six nuts are tightened.

Lower cover

10 Remove the crankshaft pulley (see
Section 8).
11 Unscrew the cover’s three securing bolts
and withdraw it (see illustration).
12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure the cover edges engage
correctly with each other, and note the torque
wrench settings specified for the various
fasteners.

Inner shield

13 Remove the timing belt, its tensioner
components and the camshaft toothed
pulleys (see Sections 10 and 11).
14 The shield is secured to the cylinder head
by two bolts at the top, and by two studs

lower down; unscrew these and withdraw the
shield (see illustration).
15 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; note the torque wrench settings
specified for the various fasteners.

Note: To carry out this operation, a new
timing belt (where applicable), a new cylinder
head cover gasket, and some special tools
(see text) will be required. If the timing belt is
being removed for the first time since the
vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and
retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on
reassembly.

10 Timing belt - removal, 

refitting and adjustment

9 Timing belt covers - 

removal and refitting

2A•10 In-car engine repair procedures

8.4A  Unscrew pulley bolt to release

crankshaft pulley

8.4B  Ensure pulley is located on

crankshaft Woodruff key on reassembly

9.1  Remove bolts (arrowed) to release

timing belt upper cover

9.8  Remove fasteners (arrowed) to release

timing belt middle cover

9.7  Slacken water pump pulley bolts and

remove pulley

9.11  Removing timing belt lower cover -

bolt locations arrowed

9.14  Timing belt inner shield fasteners

(arrowed)