BBM OUTLAW & OUTLAW EXTREME MODELS ZERO-TURN MOWER. Manual - part 5

PAGE

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BLADE

Essentially there are only TWO basic styles of mowing blades used or approved for use on our current
products:

1) The standard style of mowing blade is essentially designed for cutting grass and effectively discharging

the clippings out from the deck to fall onto the lawn or to be captured in a grass collection system.
Standard blades are also referred to as “2-in-1” (discharging & bagging ) or “high-lift” blades (because
they are designed to create a higher-lifting airflow).

2) Mulching blades generally have a more curved style surface and frequently include extra cutting

surfaces along the blade edges. These blades may also come in a “+” design (which is actually two
individual blades arranged in a perpendicular fashion to enhance mulching). The “+” blades are usually
found on older style mowers; newer ones utilize blades with more advanced mulching technology.
Mulching blades may also be referred to as “3-in-1” (mulching, discharging & bagging) or “all-purpose”
blades.

Bear in mind that the re-circulating airflow design of 3/1 blades makes them less efficient at discharging
grass clippings than a standard 2/1 blade. As with most all-purpose tools, there is some give and take as
opposed to using a tool designed for a more specific purpose.

If you’re experiencing less-than-desired cutting or discharging performance with a 3/1 blade, you may want
to check into using a 2/1 blade. Conversely, if you’re using a 2/1 blade and want to mulch clippings, you
should see about the availability of mulching blades or a mulching kit.*

The type of blade installed on a new mower is a decision the retailer makes for each model of mower, based
on the expected needs of most customers. If you’re unsure of which blade is on a particular model, inspect
the blade. Blades have part numbers stamped into them. Then compare these part numbers with the unit’s
Operator’s Manual or Parts List.

It is true there are many other styles of blades available. But since we don’t manufacture or recommend
using these other aftermarket styles, we will leave them out of this discussion. Should you want more
information on special application or aftermarket blades, you should contact the companies that make these
products. NOTE: Customers using non-OEM blades do so at their own risk. The use of unapproved (non-
OEM) blades may void any or all of the mower and engine factory warranties.

* MULCHING KITS – These generally consist of mulching blades and a mulching plug (which closes off
the discharge opening to keep the clippings contained under the deck for re-cutting) plus any necessary
hardware for installation. Please check with your parts distributor regarding the contents of a particular
mulching kit.

PAGE

MOWING TIPS:

• Mow header strips at the ends of the lawn and around flower beds first. Make them wide enough that you can turn the mower

around in the already mown section. Then mow back and forth between these header strips overlapping each lap by about 1/8

the

width of the mower’s deck.

• Don’t cut your grass too short, particular

ly cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks

better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.

• Don’t remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and

you

just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3

or so

days between cuttings.

•

NEVER SCALP YOUR LAWN. Scalping severely damages the root system to such a degree that it may die.

• Avoid mowing when the grass is wet or when it’s dark
• Avoid throwing grass clippings into the street and driveway where they can be washed into the sewer system. After mowing,

clean

up driveway and walkways.

• When mowing remove only a third with each cutting (except for the first mowing of the season when it’s ok to remove more).

You

can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion,

grass

clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing, especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the direction

ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower’s blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several

blades

around so you’ll always have a sharp one on hand. Sharp blades cut the grass cleanly and help mulch clippings into

small pieces

which break down quickly.

• Don’t forget to change your mower’s oil at least once during the mowing season. For brand new mowers, change the oil after

about 5 hours of operation during the initial break-in period.

• At the end of the mowing season use a fuel stabilizer in the remaining gasoline
• In the spring, don’t use that old gas unless you properly used a fuel stabilizer, it

can cause a number of problems. Better to use fresh gasoline to begin the new
mowing season.

•

Leaf blade A demonstrates what a leaf blade should look like after mowing with
a sharp blade.

•

Leaf blade B demonstrates a leaf blade that was injured by a dull mower blade.

•

Leaf blade C was cut by the mower but indicates that the mower blade is not sharp enough. The shredded white tissue

protruding

from the leaf blades C and D is the vascular tissue of the plant.

•

Leaf blade D has been mown for quite some time with a dull mower blade.

The leading edge of the blade enclosure is equipped with an adjustable guard. When the

guard is set to a higher position, it allows incoming grass to remain in a more upright
position just prior to being cut. The result is a higher quality cut.

To bag or mulch?

Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup or increase the chances of disease. If

you mow your lawn at the right height, without removing any more than 1/3 of it’s total height, clippings will quickly breakdown
without a trace. These clippings contribute additional nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil and supply it with additional
organic materials. Clippings from a 1000 sq. ft. lawn can add as much as 1 - 2 pounds of nitrogen back into the soil.

If you have a compost pile, then you may want to bag your clippings occasionally to add much needed green-matter to the

compost pile. Make sure it is mixed thoroughly with brown matter to avoid a strong ammonia odor.

DO NOT COMPOST

CLIPPINGS after applying any weed control or weed-feed type product. Before adding clippings to the compost pile wait at
least 3 mowings after these products have been applied.

PAGE

SERVICE SECTION

SECTION 1: HYDROSTATIC SYSTEM

The hydro reservoir tank on the Outlaw model is located
on each side of rear cover. Notice the “full cold” line at
the bottom of the tank. Use only 20W-50 motor oil in this
tank. Conventional or synthetic oil may be used.

THE FOLLOWING MAINTENACE IS TO BE
PERFORMED ON A LEVEL SURFACE.

Outlaw transaxles hold 4 quarts of 20W-50 motor oil
each. Bad Boy Hydrostatic Oil is recommended.
Transaxle service is recommended after the first 75
hours of use; then at intervals of 250 usage hours. Use
only Hydro-Gear® brand oil filters. Use of other brands
could void the warranty.

Changing your hydraulic oil and filter

Outlaw 4400:

Place an oil drain pan (12” or more in diameter

and 8 qt. capacity is optimal) beneath the oil filter.

Remove the oil

filter cover from the transaxle to drain

the oil. Remove the O-ring from the

cover and discard the O-ring.

After the oil has drained from the transaxle,

remove the oil filter from the transaxle housing.

Install a new filter and a new O-ring onto the filter

cover and install the filter cover. Torque the filter

cover to 200-300 in-lbs.

Fill the transaxle with new 20W-50 motor oil

through the hydraulic reservoir until it reaches the

cold fill line on the tank.

Drain the old oil filter of all free flowing oil prior to

disposal. Place used oil in appropriate containers

and deliver to an approved recycling collection

facility.

Proceed to the purge procedure on the next page.

PAGE

Changing your hydraulic oil and filter Extreme 5400:

Place an oil drain pan (12” or more in diameter and 8

qt. capacity is optimal) beneath the oil filter. Remove

the oil filter cover from the transaxle to drain the oil.

Remove the O-ring from the cover and discard the O-

ring.

After the oil has drained from the transaxle, remove

the oil filter from the transaxle housing.

Install a new filter and a new O-ring onto the filter

cover and install the filter cover. Torque the filter

cover to 200-300 in-lbs.

Remove the top oil fill vent port plug as seen in the

picture to the right. Fill the transaxle with new 20W-50

through the hydraulic reservoir tank until the oil

reaches the oil fill vent port.

Install the top oil fill vent port plug and continue filling

the system with oil until the fill line is reached in the

expansion tank.

Drain the old oil filter of all free flowing oil prior to

disposal. Place used oil in appropriate containers and

deliver to an approved recycling collection facility.

Proceed to the purge procedure below.

Outlaw Extreme transaxles hold 4.75 quarts each. Bad Boy
Hydrostatic Oil is recommended. Transaxle service is
recommended after the first 75 hours of use; then at intervals
of 250 usage hours. Use only Hydro-Gear® brand oil filters.
Use of other brands could void the warranty.

Content .. 3 4 5 6 ..