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Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual - part 13

Tools and working facilities REF•5

Introduction

Maintenance and minor repair

motor vehicle, and are additional to those

tool kit

given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.

A selection of good tools is a fundamental

Included in this list is a comprehensive set of

requirement for anyone contemplating the

The tools given in this list should be

sockets. Although these are expensive, they

maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.

considered as a minimum requirement if

will be found invaluable as they are so

For the owner who does not possess any,

routine maintenance, servicing and minor

versatile - particularly if various drives are

their purchase will prove a considerable

repair operations are to be undertaken. We

included in the set. We recommend the half-

recommend the purchase of combination

expense, offsetting some of the savings made

inch square-drive type, as this can be used

spanners

(ring one end, open-ended the

by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that

with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you

other); although more expensive than open-

the tools purchased meet the relevant national

cannot afford a socket set, even bought

ended ones, they do give the advantages of

safety standards and are of good quality, they

piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box

both types of spanner.

will last for many years and prove an

spanners are a useful alternative.

M Combination spanners:

extremely worthwhile investment.

The tools in this list will occasionally need to

Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &

To help the average owner to decide which

be supplemented by tools from the Special

19 mm

tools are needed to carry out the various tasks

list.

M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)

detailed in this manual, we have compiled

M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)

three lists of tools under the following

previous list (including Torx sockets)

M Spark plug gap adjustment tool

headings: Maintenance and minor repair,

M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with

M Set of feeler blades

Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers

sockets)

M Brake bleed nipple spanner

to practical mechanics should start off with

M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

M Screwdrivers:

the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and

sockets)

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

confine themselves to the simpler jobs around

M Universal joint (for use with sockets)

Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

the vehicle. Then, as confidence and

M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

M Combination pliers

experience grow, more difficult tasks can be

M Self-locking grips

M Hacksaw (junior)

undertaken, with extra tools being purchased

M Ball pein hammer

M Tyre pump

as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a

M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or

M Tyre pressure gauge

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be

rubber)

M Oil can

built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over

M Screwdrivers:

M Oil filter removal tool

a considerable period of time, without any

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),

M Fine emery cloth

major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-

and narrow (electricians) types

M Wire brush (small)

yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for

Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short

M Funnel (medium size)

most repair and overhaul procedures, and will

(chubby) types

add tools from the Special category when it is

M Pliers:

Repair and overhaul tool kit

felt that the expense is justified by the amount

Long-nosed

These tools are virtually essential for

of use to which these tools will be put.

Side cutters (electricians)

anyone undertaking any major repairs to a

Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mm

M Scriber

M Scraper

M Centre punch

M Pin punch

M Hacksaw

M Brake hose clamp

M Brake/clutch bleeding kit

M Selection of twist drills

M Steel rule/straight-edge

M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)

M Selection of files

M Wire brush

M Axle-stands

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Spline bit set

M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

M Light with extension lead

Spline key set

Valve spring compressor

Two- and three legged bearing puller

REF

REF•6 Tools and working facilities

Special tools

Buying tools

attention with emery cloth or a file will soon

restore items like this to a good serviceable

The tools in this list are those which are not

For practically all tools, a tool factor is the

finish.

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which

best source, since he will have a very

need to be used in accordance with their

comprehensive range compared with the

Working facilities

manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively

average garage or accessory shop. Having

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools

difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken

said that, accessory shops often offer

is the workshop itself. If anything more than

frequently, it will not be economic to buy

excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it

routine maintenance is to be carried out,

many of these tools. Where this is the case,

pays to shop around.

some form of suitable working area becomes

you could consider clubbing together with

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most

essential.

friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a

expensive items on the shelf, but it is always

It is appreciated that many an owner-

joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against

advisable to steer clear of the very cheap

a deposit from a local garage or tool hire

tools. There are plenty of good tools around at

mechanic is forced by circumstances to

specialist. It is worth noting that many of the

reasonable prices, but always aim to

remove an engine or similar item without the

larger DIY superstores now carry a large

purchase items which meet the relevant

benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done

range of special tools for hire at modest rates.

national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the

this, any repairs should always be done under

The following list contains only those tools

proprietor or manager of the shop for advice

the cover of a roof.

and instruments freely available to the public,

before making a purchase.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should

be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at

and not those special tools produced by the

Care and maintenance of tools

a suitable working height.

vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a

network. You will find occasional references to

necessary to keep the tools in a clean and

jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most

these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of

serviceable condition. After use, always wipe

jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean

this manual. Generally, an alternative method

off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a

dry storage space is also required for tools, as

of doing the job without the vehicle

clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.

well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,

manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,

Never leave them lying around after they have

touch-up paints and so on, which become

sometimes there is no alternative to using

been used. A simple tool rack on the garage

necessary.

them. Where this is the case and the relevant

or workshop wall for items such as

Another item which may be required, and

tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will

screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store

which has a much more general usage, is an

have to entrust the work to a franchised

all normal spanners and sockets in a metal

electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8

garage.

box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,

mm. This, together with a good range of twist

M Valve spring compressor

meters, etc, must be carefully stored where

drills, is virtually essential for fitting

M Valve grinding tool

they cannot be damaged or become rusty.

accessories.

M Piston ring compressor

Take a little care when tools are used.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of

M Piston ring removal/installation tool

Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and

old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags

M Cylinder bore hone

screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their

available, and try to keep any working area as

M Balljoint separator

blades from time to time. A little timely

clean as possible.

M Coil spring compressors (where applicable)

M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller

M Impact screwdriver

M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers

M Dial gauge

M Stroboscopic timing light

M Dwell angle meter/tachometer

M Universal electrical multi-meter

M Cylinder compression gauge

M Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge

M Clutch plate alignment set

M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

M Bush and bearing removal/installation set

M Stud extractors

M Tap and die set

M Lifting tackle

Micrometer set

Vernier calipers

M Trolley jack

Stroboscopic timing light

Cylinder compression gauge

Clutch plate alignment set

MOT test checks REF•7

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same

standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through

the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas

before submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester

has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such

discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or

friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the

vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may

be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is

scruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,

based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards

are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some

exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes

publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

Checks carried out

Checks carried out on

FROM THE DRIVER’S

WITH THE VEHICLE

YOUR VEHICLE’S

SEAT

ON THE GROUND

RAISED AND THE

EXHAUST EMISSION

WHEELS FREE TO

SYSTEM

TURN

Checks carried out

FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Handbrake

M Test the operation of the handbrake.

Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates

incorrect brake or cable adjustment.

M Check that the handbrake cannot be

released by tapping the lever sideways. Check

the security of the lever mountings.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and in

movement of the steering wheel, indicating

good condition. Check also for signs of fluid

wear in the column support bearings or

leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which

couplings.

would indicate failed seals in the brake master

cylinder.

Windscreen and mirrors

M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by

M The windscreen must be free of cracks or

operating the brake pedal several times, then

other significant damage within the driver’s

keeping the pedal depressed and starting the

field of view.

(Small stone chips are

engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will

acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be

move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or

secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

the servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column

Footbrake

M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or

M Depress the brake pedal and check that it

looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.

does not creep down to the floor, indicating a

M Move the steering wheel from side to side

master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait

and then up and down. Check that the

a few seconds, then depress it again. If the

steering wheel is not loose on the column,

pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm

indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.

resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is

Continue moving the steering wheel as before,

necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is

but also turn it slightly from left to right.

air in the hydraulic system which must be

M Check that the steering wheel is not loose

REF

removed by bleeding.

on the column, and that there is no abnormal

REF•8 MOT test checks

Electrical equipment

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for

cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the

M Switch on the ignition and check the

steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the

operation of the horn.

hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any

M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,

part of the steering or suspension mechanism.

examining the wiper blades; renew damaged

With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check

or perished blades. Also check the operation

the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

of the stop-lights.

Seat belts and seats

Note: The following checks are applicable to

all seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts

(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious

fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten

each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,

check the retracting mechanism. Check the

security of all seat belt mountings accessible

M Check the operation of the sidelights and

from inside the vehicle.

number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors

Steering and suspension

M The front seats themselves must be

must be secure, clean and undamaged.

M Have your assistant turn the steering whee

securely attached and the backrests must

M Check the operation and alignment of the

from side to side slightly, up to the point where

lock in the upright position.

headlights. The headlight reflectors must not

the steering gear just begins to transmit this

be tarnished and the lenses must be

Doors

movement to the roadwheels. Check for

undamaged.

excessive free play between the steering

M Both front doors must be able to be opened

M Switch on the ignition and check the

wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or

and closed from outside and inside, and must

operation of the direction indicators (including

insecurity of the steering column joints, the

latch securely when closed.

the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard

column-to-steering gear coupling, or the

warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and

steering gear itself.

stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it

M Have your assistant turn the steering whee

does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the

Checks carried out

more vigorously in each direction, so that the

rear light cluster.

WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE

roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,

M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),

GROUND

examine all the steering joints, linkages,

including the warning light on the instrument

fittings and attachments. Renew any

panel or in the switch.

component that shows signs of wear or

Vehicle identification

Footbrake

damage. On vehicles with power steering,

M Number plates must be in good condition,

check the security and condition of the

secure and legible, with letters and numbers

M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes

steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.

and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,

correctly spaced - spacing at (A) should be

M Check that the vehicle is standing level,

twice that at (B).

corrosion or other damage.

and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers

M Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,

then release it. The vehicle should rise and

then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle

continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber

is defective. A shock absorber which has

seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the

fluid level must be between the upper (A) and

M The VIN plate (A) and homologation plate

(B) must be legible.

lower (B) markings.

MOT test checks REF•9

Exhaust system

Front and rear suspension and

M The same general checks apply to vehicles

wheel bearings

fitted with other suspension types, such as

M Start the engine. With your assistant

torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.

holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the

M Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp

Ensure that all mountings and attachments are

entire system for leaks. Repair or renew

the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock

secure, that there are no signs of excessive

leaking sections.

positions and shake it vigorously. Check for

wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic

free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,

types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged

suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-

pipes.

ings, pivots and attachments.

M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of

M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and

serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the

6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous

mounting bushes or attachments, or damage

inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for

to the body of the unit.

roughness or tightness of the front wheel

bearing.

Driveshafts

(fwd vehicles only)

M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect

the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or

damage. Also check that each driveshaft is

straight and undamaged.

Checks carried out

WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED

AND THE WHEELS FREE TO

TURN

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,

M If excess free play is suspected at a

and securely support it on axle stands.

component pivot point, this can be confirmed

Position the stands clear of the suspension

by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and

assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are

levering between the mounting and the

clear of the ground and that the steering

component attachment. This will confirm

can be turned from lock to lock.

whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its

Braking system

retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt

Steering mechanism

M If possible without dismantling, check

holes can often become elongated).

brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure

M Have your assistant turn the steering from

that the friction lining material has not worn

lock to lock. Check that the steering turns

excessively,

(A) and that the discs are not

smoothly, and that no part of the steering

fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls

any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body

structure.

M Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters

for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.

If power steering is fitted, check for signs of

damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or

connections. Also check for excessive

stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing

split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion

of the body structure within 30 cm of any

steering component attachment point.

M Carry out all the above checks at the other

front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers

M Examine all the rigid brake pipes

M Examine the suspension struts

(when

underneath the vehicle, and the flexible

applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,

hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing

or damage to the casing. Also check the

or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of

security of the mounting points.

bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or

M If coil springs are fitted, check that the

deterioration of the flexible hoses.

spring ends locate in their seats, and that the

M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake

spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.

calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or

M If leaf springs are fitted, check that all

renew leaking components.

leaves are intact, that the axle is securely

M Slowly spin each wheel, while your

attached to each spring, and that there is no

assistant depresses and releases the

deterioration of the spring eye mountings,

footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating

REF

bushes, and shackles.

and does not bind when the pedal is released.

REF•10 MOT test checks

for smoke emissions from the exhaust

tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much

too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible

black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more

than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule

of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt

(engine wear) while black smoke signifies

unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other

carburettor or fuel system fault).

M An exhaust gas analyser capable of

measuring carbon monoxide

(CO) and

hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an

instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a

M Examine the handbrake mechanism,

properly seated, and that the wheel is not

local garage may agree to perform the check

checking for frayed or broken cables,

distorted or damaged.

for a small fee.

excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of

M Check that the tyres are of the correct size

the linkage. Check that the mechanism works

for the vehicle, that they are of the same size

CO emissions (mixture)

on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,

and type on each axle, and that the pressures

M At the time or writing, the maximum CO

without binding.

are correct.

level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after

M It is not possible to test brake efficiency

M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal

August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.

without special equipment, but a road test

minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over

From January

1996 a much tighter limit

can be carried out later to check that the

at least three-quarters of the tread width.

(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped

vehicle pulls up in a straight line.

Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect

vehicles first used from August 1992. If the

front wheel alignment.

Fuel and exhaust systems

CO level cannot be reduced far enough to

Body corrosion

pass the test

(and the fuel and ignition

M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler

systems are otherwise in good condition) then

cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All

M Check the condition of the entire vehicle

components must be secure and free from

the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some

structure for signs of corrosion in load-

leaks.

bearing areas.

(These include chassis box

problem in the fuel injection system or

M Examine the exhaust system over its entire

catalytic converter (as applicable).

sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars,

length, checking for any damaged, broken or

and all suspension, steering, braking system

missing mountings, security of the retaining

HC emissions

and seat belt mountings and anchorages.)

clamps and rust or corrosion.

M With the CO emissions within limits, HC

Any corrosion which has seriously reduced

the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to

emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm

(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test

cause the vehicle to fail. In this case

at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000

professional repairs are likely to be needed.

M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp

rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less,

or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed

this counts as a pass.

will also cause the vehicle to fail.

M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by

oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be

due to unburnt fuel.

Checks carried out on

Diesel models

YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST

M The only emission test applicable to Diesel

EMISSION SYSTEM

engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke

density. The test involves accelerating the

Petrol models

engine several times to its maximum

Wheels and tyres

M Have the engine at normal operating

unloaded speed.

temperature, and make sure that it is in good

M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of

Note: It is of the utmost importance that the

tune (ignition system in good order, air filter

each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,

engine timing belt is in good condition before

element clean, etc).

bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure

the test is carried out.

M Before any measurements are carried out,

of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.

raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,

M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty

Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated

and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional

on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

the engine speed to return to idle, and watch

advice may be needed to find the cause.

Content .. 11 12 13