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getting “energy” to the plug gaps (energy is voltage x current x time), but that’s usually a sign of a company trying to
peddle snake oil; the only place in an ignition system to be concerned about energy is in building up the field within the
coil (the energy the Lucas “Constant Energy Ignition” and the GM “High Energy Ignition” are referring to).
It’s easy to limit the current flow once the spark occurs, though: Put a resistor in the circuit. A resistor won’t affect the
onset of spark at all, because before the spark occurs there is no current and therefore the resistance is of no
consequence. But once the spark begins and current begins flowing, the resistor comes into play and limits the current
flow.
There are several places to put resistors in this circuit. Using “resistor” type spark plugs is common. Also common is
the use of spark plug wires with a carbon-impregnated core, which offers some amount of resistance per inch of lead.
Perhaps not so common, it is possible to purchase resistors that fit into the wire between the coil and the distributor.
Plug wires are all different lengths within the same car, so use of common plug wires will result in a different amount of
resistance between one plug and another. This doesn’t matter, as long as there is some resistance.
Some people think spark plug wires with copper conductors are a good idea. Clearly they fail to notice that such wires
are generally the cheapest available -- yet do not come on any cars as original equipment. If used with non-resistor
plugs, there will be no resistance in the circuit at all, and the plugs will be eroded quickly -- if the coil doesn’t burn up
first. Copper core plug wires should be avoided for all applications, except perhaps fitting a new lead to your timing
light; the copper is easy to solder.
A more recent development is the spiral core plug wire. The core of these wires has a very fine stainless steel wire
coiled into what looks like a long, skinny spring. Stainless steel isn’t an excellent conductor as metals go, but it
nevertheless would provide an essentially zero-resistance current path if it were straight; the current limiting factor here
is evidently the coiling. Magnecor (page 704) offers such wires but is mum about the theories on which they work,
claiming that too many competitors want their information. Judging from their descriptions, they appear they work like
this: The spiral core behaves as a long inductance coil. Before the spark occurs, there is no current flow, so the
inductance is of no concern -- same as the resistance in the standard setup. Once the spark begins, the high inductance
of the leads prevents the current flow from rising instantly but permits it to rise gradually instead -- and the ignition coil
runs out of energy before the current flow can rise to a dangerous level.
Magnecor claims several benefits to this design. One claim is that they will outlast the standard wires, because stainless
steel is more durable than the carbon-impregnated silicone core. Another benefit is that these wires are more flexible,
and several XJ-S owners have reported this is true and a blessing in the top of the V12. Perhaps the flexibility is a large
part of their longevity as well, since neither stainless steel or carbon-impregnated silicone should deteriorate before the
insulation layers do on either type wire, but bending the carbon-impregnated silicone wire too tightly will damage it for
sure.
Magnecor also claims reduced radio and electronics interference. This is important because modern cars with EFI can
get all screwed up if the spark plug wires emit enough EMI to cause spurious signals in pickup leads. The spiral core
wires have the theoretical benefit that the magnetic field generated is aligned with the lead rather than radiating away
from it in all directions. Franck Guilloteau says, “On their claims; the idle stumble that I had was reduced noticeably,
but my stereo has developed an annoying noise....so much for RFI shielding!!” Perhaps a good idea would be to use
spiral-core wires in conjunction with resistor plugs, just to be sure.
CAP AND ROTOR RENOVATION: Most of us just buy new parts periodically, but Danny Rearden says, “High
tension ignition components such as distributor caps and rotors are generally only faulty if they are cracked, or have
carbon tracks on the surface. Even both of these conditions are usually repairable if you are prepared to invest a few
hours. My dad specialized in repairing obsolete vintage and racing ignition systems and magnetos where parts were
completely unobtainable.
“Clean the part, first with solvent cleaner, then with strong hot detergent solution and dry thoroughly. Inspect very
carefully, with a magnifying glass if your vision is not 20/20, looking for any surface marks which were not intended to
be there.