Ford Orion. Manual - part 16

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Cylinder head cover bolts:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

1.5

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

5

Camshaft toothed pulley bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68

50

Camshaft bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19

14

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Stage 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 105º

Timing belt cover fasteners:

Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

3

Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

5

Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 11

6.5 to 8

Timing belt tensioner bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38

28

Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 11

6 to 8

Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35 to 40

26 to 30

Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

48

35

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18

13

Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47

35

Cylinder head support plates:

Front plate Torx screws - to power steering pump/air conditioning
compressor mounting bracket and cylinder head  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47

35

Rear plate/engine lifting eye to alternator mounting
bracket and cylinder head bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47

35

Front engine lifting eye bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16

12

Inlet and exhaust manifold studs-to-cylinder head  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10 maximum

7 maximum

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts:

Shield-to-cylinder head  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

5

Shield/dipstick tube  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

Exhaust manifold nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16

12

Air conditioning refrigerant pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

108 to 115

80 to 85

Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19

14

Oil filter adapter-to-pump  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18 to 25

13 to 18

Oil pressure warning light switch  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27

20

Sump bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 22

15 to 16

Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Flywheel/driveplate bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110 to 112

81 to 83

Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1

General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair

procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre
HCS engine, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre 
CVH engines, will be found in Parts A and B of
this Chapter respectively. Since these
procedures are based on the assumption that
the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the
engine has been removed from the vehicle and

mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary
dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission

removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.

General description - 
Zetec engine

The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of

sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft
(DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle, with
the (clutch and) transmission on its left-hand
end (see illustrations).

Apart from the plastic timing belt covers

and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all

major engine castings are of aluminium alloy.

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings,

the centre main bearing’s upper half
incorporating thrustwashers to control
crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods
rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at
their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the
connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are
an interference fit in the connecting rod small-
end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are
fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.

The inlet and exhaust valves are each

closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts.

Both camshafts are driven by the same

toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine.

The water pump is bolted to the right-hand

end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.

When working on this engine, note that

Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-

rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2C•3

2C

1.3B  Lateral cross-section through engine

1  Inlet camshaft
2  Exhaust camshaft
3  Oil galleries
4  Exhaust port
5  Oil strainer and pick-up pipe
6  Oil baffle
7  Crankshaft
8  Piston-cooling oil jet (where fitted)
9  Inlet valve

10  Inlet port
11  Fuel injector
12  Inlet camshaft toothed pulley
13  Timing belt
14  Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley
15  Timing belt (front) guide pulley
16  Crankshaft toothed pulley - behind
17  Crankshaft pulley
18  Oil cooler (where fitted)
19  Timing belt (rear) guide pulley
20  Timing belt tensioner

1.3A  Longitudinal cross-section through engine - inset showing

timing belt details

1  Exhaust valve
2  Piston
3  Oil baffle

4  Oil strainer and pick-up 

pipe

5  Spark plug

6  Fuel injector
7  Piston-cooling oil jets 

(where fitted)

some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system (see illustration).

Valve clearances - general

It is necessary for a clearance to exist

between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism, to allow for the
expansion of the various components as the
engine reaches normal operating
temperature.

On most older engine designs, this meant

that the valve clearances (also known as
“tappet” clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were
allowed to be too slack, the engine would be
very noisy, its power output would suffer, and
its fuel consumption would increase. If the
clearances were allowed to be too tight, the
engine’s power output would be reduced, and
the valves and their seats could be severely
damaged.

The Zetec engine employs hydraulic

tappets which use the lubricating system’s oil
pressure to automatically take up the
clearance between each camshaft lobe and
its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is
no need for regular checking and adjustment
of the valve clearances, but it is essential that
only good-quality oil of the recommended
viscosity and specification is used in the
engine, and that this oil is always changed at
the recommended intervals. If this advice is
not followed, the oilways and tappets may
become clogged with particles of dirt, or
deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that
the system cannot work properly; ultimately,
one or more of the tappets may fail, and
expensive repairs may be required.

On starting the engine from cold, there will

be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets; the valve components, therefore,
may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so,
and then quieten. This is a normal state of
affairs, and is nothing to worry about,
provided that all tappets quieten quickly and
stay quiet.

After the vehicle has been standing for

several days, the valve components may
“rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the
oil will have drained away from the engine’s
top-end components and bearing surfaces.
While this is only to be expected, care must
be taken not to damage the engine under
these circumstances - avoid high speed
running until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise
ceases. Do not run the engine at more than
3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged
with oil and the noise has ceased.

If the valve components are thought to be

noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top
end after the engine has warmed up to normal
operating temperature, take the vehicle to a
Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on
the mileage covered and the usage to which
each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may
be noisier than others; only a good mechanic
experienced in these engines can tell if the
noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage,
or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s
operation is faulty, it must be renewed
(Section 13).

2

Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle

The following major repair operations can

be accomplished without removing the engine
from the vehicle. However, owners should
note that any operation involving the removal
of the sump requires careful forethought,
depending on the level of skill and the tools
and facilities available; refer to the relevant
text for details:
a)

Compression pressure - testing.

b)

Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.

c)

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.

d)

Timing belt - renewal.

e)

Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys
- removal and refitting.

f)

Camshaft oil seals - renewal.

g)

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets -
removal and refitting.

h)

Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and
refitting.

i)

Cylinder head and pistons -
decarbonising.

j)

Sump - removal and refitting.

k)

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.

l)

Oil pump - removal and refitting.

m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies -

removal and refitting (but see note below).

n)

Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.

o)

Engine/transmission mountings - removal
and refitting.

Clean the engine compartment and the

exterior of the engine with some type of
degreasant before any work is done. It will

2C•4 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1.11  Engine lubrication system - inset showing longitudinal

cross-section

1  Main oil gallery
2  From oil filter
3  Oil pump
4  Cylinder head 

oil-retaining valve

5  Cylinder head oil gallery
6  Cylinder head oil supply
7  Oil return
8  Piston-cooling oil spray 

(where fitted)

9  Oil filter - oil cooler not 

shown here

make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt
out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it

may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the front wings to prevent damage to
the paint; special covers are available, but an
old bedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks

develop, indicating a need for
component/gasket or seal replacement, the
repairs can generally be made with the engine
in the vehicle. The inlet and exhaust manifold
gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place.

Exterior components such as the inlet and

exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil pump,
the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.

Since the cylinder head can be removed

without lifting out the engine, camshaft and
valve component servicing can also be
accomplished with the engine in the vehicle,
as can renewal of the timing belt and toothed
pulleys.

In extreme cases caused by a lack of

necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved, and because of the
amount of preliminary dismantling work
required - these operations are therefore
covered in Part D of this Chapter.

3

Compression test -
description and interpretation

2

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The aid of an assistant will be
required also.
3 Disable the ignition system by unplugging
the ignition coil’s electrical connector, and
remove fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump.
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter

motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
7 Due to the variety of testers available, and
the fluctuation in starter motor speed when
cranking the engine, different readings are
often obtained when carrying out the
compression test. For this reason, actual
compression pressure figures are not given by
the manufacturer’s, but a typical reading
would be in excess of 12 bars. All cylinders
should produce very similar pressures; any
difference greater than 10% indicates the
existence of a fault. Note that the
compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine; low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which does not build up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked
head could also be the cause). Deposits on
the undersides of the valve heads can also
cause low compression.
8 If the pressure in any cylinder is
considerably lower than the others, introduce
a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder
through its spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston ring wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faulty
hydraulic tappet could be the cause.
12 If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the
cylinder head should be removed and
decarbonised.
13 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs, reconnect the ignition system, and refit
the fuel pump fuse.

4

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston - locating

2

General

1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in its travel up and down its cylinder bore that
each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates.
While each piston reaches TDC both at the
top of the compression stroke and again at

the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose
of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston
position (usually No 1 piston) at the top of its
compression stroke.
2 It is useful for several servicing procedures
to be able to position the engine at TDC.
3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right-
hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- and
left-hand are always quoted as seen from the
driver’s seat). Note that the crankshaft rotates
clockwise when viewed from the right-hand
side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC

4 Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1).
5 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1) - unless the
starter motor is to be used to turn the engine.
6 Apply the handbrake and ensure that the
transmission is in neutral, then jack up the
front right-hand side of the vehicle and
support on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel.
7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
8 It is best to rotate the crankshaft using a
spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt;
however, it is possible also to use the starter
motor (switched on either by an assistant
using the ignition key, or by using a remote
starter switch) to bring the engine close to
TDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starter
is used, be sure to disconnect the battery lead
immediately it is no longer required.
9 Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation
(clockwise, seen from the right-hand side of
the vehicle) the first pair of notches are
irrelevant to the vehicles covered in this
manual, while the second pair indicate TDC
when aligned with the rear edge of the raised
mark on the sump. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise until the second pair of notches
align with the edge of the sump mark; use a
straight edge extended out from the sump if
greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations).
10 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC,
one of them on the compression stroke.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2C•5

4.9A  Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first

pair of notches “A” - align second pair of

notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .

2C