Ford Orion. Manual - part 6

continuously during the following checks and
adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to
keep clear of the fan during the following
operations when working in the engine
compartment.
7 Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker
vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify
the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4.
8 Check that the vehicle lighting and other
electrical loadings (apart from the radiator
cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the
engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000
rpm for 30 seconds, and repeat this at three-
minute intervals during the check/adjustment
procedures. This will ensure that any excess
fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold.
9 Ensure that the throttle is fully released,
allow the meters to stabilise for a period of 3
to 5 seconds, then check the idle speed
against that specified. If adjustment is
necessary, turn the idle speed screw until the
engine is idling at the specified speed. Any
checks and adjustments must be completed
within 30 seconds of the meters stabilising.
10 If adjustment to the mixture is required,
the tamperproof cap will need to be removed
from the carburettor to gain access to the
mixture screw. To do this, first unclip the fuel
trap from the side of the air cleaner unit, then
remove the air cleaner unit, ensuring that the
crankcase ventilation trap remains connected.
Prise free the tamperproof cap (with the aid of
a thin-bladed screwdriver), then with the
vacuum and emissions control pipes
connected to it, relocate the air cleaner unit
temporarily into position.
11 Turn the mixture adjustment screw
clockwise to weaken the mixture, or anti-
clockwise to richen it, until the CO reading is
as given in the Specifications (see
illustration). If a CO meter is not being used,
weaken the mixture as described, then enrich
the mixture until the maximum engine speed
is obtained, consistent with even running.
12 If necessary, re-adjust the idle speed then
check the CO reading again. Repeat as
necessary until both the idle speed and CO
reading are correct.
13 Where required by law (as in some
European countries), fit a new tamperproof
cap to the mixture adjustment screw.

14 Disconnect the tachometer and the CO
meter, refit the air cleaner unit, and reconnect
the fan switch lead to complete.

Base idle speed and mixture
check and adjustment - 1.6 litre
EFi engines

15 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 4 to 6 inclusive, then continue as
follows.
16 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it
reaches its normal operating temperature and
the cooling fan cuts in. Check the CO content of
the exhaust, and compare it against the
specified reading. If the CO content reading is
incorrect, it can be adjusted by prising free the
tamperproof cap for access to the CO
adjustment screw (see illustration), and turning
the screw in the required direction to suit.
17 Check the base idle speed by first
disconnecting the multi-plug from the idle
speed control valve. Increase the engine
speed to 2000 rpm, hold it at that speed for
30 seconds, then fully release the throttle and
check if the base idle speed registered is as
specified.
18 If adjustment is necessary, prise free the
tamperproof plug using a suitable small
screwdriver to gain access to the base idle
adjustment screw in the throttle body. Turn
the screw in the required direction to adjust
the base idle speed to the specified amount.
Turning the screw anti-clockwise increases
the idle speed (see illustration).
19 Repeat the procedure outlined in

paragraph 17 to recheck and further adjust
the base idle speed if required, then fit a new
tamperproof plug into position.
20 Reconnect the idle speed control valve
multi-plug, and check that the engine speed
briefly rises to about 900 rpm, then drops
down to the specified normal idle speed.
21 On completion, disconnect the
tachometer and the CO meter, but continue
running the engine at idle speed for a period
of about five minutes, to enable the engine
management module to relearn its values
before switching it off.

18 Manual transmission oil level

check 

1

1 The manual transmission does not have a
dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
making sure that the vehicle is level. On the
lower front side of the transmission housing,
you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and
remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be
required  (see illustration). If the lubricant
level is correct, the oil should be up to the
lower edge of the hole.
2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if
the oil level is not up to the hole), use a
syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add
more  (see illustration). Stop filling the
transmission when the lubricant begins to run
out of the hole.

Every 10 000 miles  

1•21

17.18  Base idle speed adjusting screw

(arrowed) in the throttle housing on the 

1.6 litre EFi engine

17.16  Mixture CO adjusting screw

(arrowed) on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

17.11  Carburettor idle mixture adjustment

screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

18.2  Topping-up the oil level in the BC

type transmission

18.1  Unscrewing the manual transmission

oil filler/level plug

1

3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Drive the
vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.
4 The need for regular topping-up can only
be due to a leak, which should be found and
rectified without delay.

19 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

2

Front suspension and steering
check

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing
or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear
of these components will cause loss of
lubricant, together with dirt and water entry,
resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints
or steering gear.
3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid
hoses (where fitted) for chafing or
deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions
for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid
leakage under pressure from the steering gear
rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed
fluid seals within the steering gear.
4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further

investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 
3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as
before. Any movement felt now may again be
caused by wear in the hub bearings or the
steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track
rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement
will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it
can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-
and-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the
track rod. If the wheel is now rocked,
movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear
has taken place.
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected, as the
mountings are made of rubber, but excessive
wear should be obvious. Also check the
condition of any visible rubber bushes,
looking for splits, cracks or contamination of
the rubber.
7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each
way. There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using
the method described for the front hub
bearings (paragraph 4).
10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,
check for wear in the suspension mounting
bushes by levering between the relevant
suspension component and its attachment

point. Some movement is to be expected, as
the mountings are made of rubber, but
excessive wear should be obvious. Check the
condition of the shock absorbers and their
bushes/mountings. On Van models, check the
leaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking,
distortion, or other damage.

Roadwheel check and balancing

11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel
wheels may become dented or buckled.
Renewal of the wheel is very often the only
course of remedial action possible.
12 The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained, not only to
avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid
wear in the steering and suspension
components. Wheel imbalance is normally
signified by vibration through the vehicle’s
bodyshell, although in many cases it is
particularly noticeable through the steering
wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that
wear or damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels and wheel bearing wear/
maladjustment also fall into this category.
Balancing will not usually cure vibration
caused by such wear.
13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If
balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.

20 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check 

1

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very
important, because they prevent dirt, water
and foreign material from entering and
damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints.
External contamination can cause the gaiter

1•22

Every 10 000 miles

19.4  Checking for wear in the front

suspension and hub bearings

19.2C  Check the condition of the steering

rack gaiters

19.2B  Check the condition of the lower

arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

19.2A  Check the condition of the track rod

end balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water occasionally.
2 With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on axle stands, turn the steering
onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front
wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the
outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber
gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the
folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or
deterioration of the rubber, which may allow
the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress
of water and grit into the joint (see
illustration). Also check the security and
condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these
checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage
or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be
renewed as described in Chapter 8.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the outer CV joints themselves,
by first holding the driveshaft and attempting
to rotate the wheels. Any appreciable
movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the
joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose
driveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check on
the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke
and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.

21 Exhaust system check 

1

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system, from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2 Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or

suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication of
the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.

22 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check 

1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are
correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.

23 Brake check 

2

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or

whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a)

The vehicle pulls to one side when the
brake pedal is depressed.

b)

The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.

c)

Brake pedal travel is excessive.

d)

The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the linings, as
follows.

Disc brakes

3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle, as
applicable, and support it on axle stands.
Where rear brake pads are fitted, also jack up
the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands.
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down
to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads
at that end of the car must be renewed as a
set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads).
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that
they still have service life remaining. If any
disc is thinner than the specified minimum
thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any
case, check the general condition of the
discs. Look for excessive scoring and dis-
colouration caused by overheating. If these

Every 10 000 miles  

1•23

21.2  If any of the exhaust system rubber

mountings are to be renewed, ensure that
the replacements are of the correct type -

their colour is a good guide. Those nearest

to the catalytic converter are more heat-

resistant than the others

20.2  Check the driveshaft gaiters by hand

for cracks and/or leaking grease

1

conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and
have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to
Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In
particular, check the flexible hoses in the
vicinity of the calipers, where they are
subjected to most movement. Bend them
between the fingers (but do not actually bend
them double, or the casing may be damaged)
and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.

Rear drum brakes

11 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch to inspect the linings of the
leading brake shoes. Check that the thickness
of the lining material on the brake shoes is not
less than the recommendation given in the
Specifications.
14 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you
are at all concerned about the condition of the
shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more
comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9)
(see illustration).
15 With the drum removed, check the shoe
return and hold-down springs for correct
installation, and check the wheel cylinders for
leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction
surface of the brake drums for scoring and
discoloration. If excessive, the drum should
be resurfaced or renewed.
16 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake also requires periodic adjustment,
and if its travel seems excessive, refer to
Section 33.

24 Door and bonnet check and

lubrication 

1

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and
tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that
the bonnet safety catch operates correctly.
Check the operation of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.

25 Roadwheel nut tightness

check 

1

1 Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat
end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit

(on some models it will be necessary to
unscrew the retaining bolts with a special
key).
3 Check that the roadwheel nuts are
tightened to the specified torque wrench
setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.

26 Road test 

1

Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking.
3 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
17 Check the pedal self-adjusting
mechanism as described in Chapter 8, if
necessary.

Instruments and electrical
equipment

18 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
19 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.

1•24

Every 10 000 miles

23.14  If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the

outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here (A); if the lining is riveted to the shoe,

measure from the lining outer surface to the rivet head